How do I service a Kawasaki ninja Er6f/er6n Versys? 

Thanks mate 😉. Was hoping to get a lot more out this year but hopefully have some time before the end of the year!

Thanks! I've got a few ideas ready to be filmed. My day job has been crazy for the past 2 months but hoping to get a few videos out over the next couple of months!

@@TheDeepPlanet Looking forward to watching it

Nice one. Just did a full service on mine. Makes such a difference! 😎

It's a great bike. Thanks for the sub. I'm planning on building one from scratch and I'll be posting videos as I go. My SA mates think I sound like an Ozzie. Lol.

Hi Matthew, I meant I am purchasing the bike this coming Friday. I started on a YZ 125cc dirtbike. I test drove the ER6F with only the clutch out, Im a little afraid of the torque. But I am a short rider and the bike feels easy to handle, so my heart is set on it! Thanks again for the video, waiting on the build! Do you think the bike will be fine as it already has 70000kms on the clock, it looks well taken care of though.

@@maxhofmann6993 Hi Max. I bought mine with just over 70 000 K's on it and landed up replacing the motor as it was cheaper to do that than get the valve guides re-sleeved. The previous owner had not looked after it and I think they may have used the wrong engine oil which resulted in the valve guides being worn which led to oil consumption and fouled the plugs(left me stranded a couple of times). It took me months to work out what the problem was (which is how I learnt so much about the bike). You can tell if there's oil in the exhaust smoke by revving the motor and holding a piece of timber near the exhaust(I have a photo of what this looks like if you want me to send it to you). The rest of the bike bis holding up well. I did replace the brake hoses with braided ones and that was a good upgrade. You're supposed to replace them every 5 years. The bike has got good torque but it doesn't misbehave. It will be great to learn on. I've been riding for 20 years and I've had a few different types of bikes and this has been the most comfortable and fun. It's also easy to work on and parts are easy to get. Feel free to contact me with any questions...

Thanks. You will enjoy it for sure. Ride safe. 😎

Thanks for your comment I watched a video a while back on servicing an er6 and it missed a few details so I decided to make a more detailed video. It is long but I wanted to make sure I covered everything.

Thanks for watching!

😎

Thanks for your comment. Ride safe!!!

Hi Atle. Thank you for you question. That's quite cold. My brother lives in Norway. White smoke usually implies coolant leak as I'm sure you know. It could be that there is some moisture collecting in the system somewhere as the bike cools down. Can you have a look at the oil level window in the morning and see if there is any condensation evident? It's possible that when the engine block is so cold, the metal could contract and allow a small amount of coolant into the combustion chamber while the bike warms up. I suggest keeping a very close eye on the coolant level as well as thoroughly checking the motor before and after each ride to try to find the problem. It may also be worth checking the condition of the mechanical water pump seal as this is something that requires replacing every 20 000 km or so and is often overlooked. (I have made 2 videos on this subject). How many Kilometers has the bike done?

Hi, and thx for your reply! It has 30.000 km. Oil is NOT clear, but kind of dark green smoothie - meaning seal has to be replaces, right?. Yes, I am aware that s white smoke indicates coolant in the combustion chamber, but I find it odd that smoke is not there when starting, but comes as idke revs drop and then disappears after 2 minutes.. My only idea is that bike has been stored over winter eithout antifreeze - resulting in a small crack in engiine blick. I will keep a close look at oil level, and just as well replace the seal. Where in Norway your brother lives, and where is your location? Norway has lots of really cool roads for motorbikes in fantastic nature - so you should go here! This summer, me and a friend did a 4 days roundtrip I would recommend: From home in city Porsgrunn on the old roads down to Stavanger - ferry in the Lysefjord (MUST be pre booked!!) - up the crazy Lysebotn road - Over the beautiful Suleskar road.. Many simular roads here.. In the Lysefjord area, you have also the crazy viewpoints "Preikestolen" and "Kjerag", but to there you have to use the legs to come up no.fjordnorway.com/planlegg-turen/komme-seg-hit-og-rundt/transport/turistbilferja-pa-lysefjorden-p1803153 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_Z0yEnm3D0s.html&feature=share www.fjordnorway.com/things-to-do/suleskarvegen-p805743

Hi again Atle. I suggest draining the oil and have a close look at it to see if there is coolant present. Hopefully is is just a gasket and not a damaged engine block. I had all kinds of trouble with my bike at first as the previous owner had not looked after it properly. It's worth the effort to fix though as they are great bikes and very reliable (once you get everything fixed). My brother lives in Bergen. I really want to visit as I want to see the northern Lights one day. Thanks for the links and good luck with your bike! Let me know if you find the problem...

matthew johnson Thx again! I had a look at youtube at a lot of cold starts in cold climate of several Kawasakis, and they all had the same thing: no smoke at first, but as idle drops when automatic choke turns off - the white smoke comes and disappears after 1-2 minutes. It is the same at -5deg C and at +9deg C, so I am no longer worried about this. But I will definately follow your 2 videos and replace the mechanical water/oil seal - parts been ordered. Once again thx for your videos, and do not hesitate to take contact if you should go Norway..

Hi there. Thanks for your comment! It is possible to do the minor service without a stand but it's worth investing in a rear paddock stand and the "bobbins" that bolt on to your swingarm. It makes it much easier and safer to work on the bike. You can remove the oil filter by hand but the bike needs to be cold and it can be very difficult due to the right space. The took is not expensive at all and will save you a lot of fustration. It's well worth it to get a torque wrench it try to borrow one. Just be patient and work through one step at a time, keep your parts organised and safe while you work. It's a very forgiving bike and easy to work on. Please feel free to message me if you have any questions. Cheers Matt

Hi Matt! Thanks so much for your fast reply :) All very helpful! Would you say a rubber band remover tool works the same as the ring tool you used? I'm a woman so my hands are maybe small enough to get in there more easily? I haven't tried yet though! Yes I definitely plan to get a torque wrench, just not sure I have to buy one or can find one from a friend. I would get a paddock stand if I had anywhere to store it but I'm tight with storage space as is and trying not to buy too many new things :) If it turns out that I love working on my bike, it will become another challenge haha. I think I'll start with just the oil/filter change first, see how that goes! Leave the tank for a second round. Also would you say it's good to put in a K&N air filter instead of the one it came with and after what mileage? Thanks again! Fenja

Hi Fenja. You can try to remove the oil filter with your hands and it is supposed to be "hand tight" but sometimes it can be quite difficult. It's also better to drain the oil when it is warm but it is ok to do it cold. If you're just doing the oil change, you don't need a torque wrench yet. Before I had the paddock stand, I used to put a thick piece of timber under the side stand to level the bike a bit. I highly recommend an aftermarket air filter. I don't think K&N do one for the 2006 -2008 model but I use one by BMC (made in Italy). It definitely helps. You'll need to get the tank off for the air filter so just be super careful when removing it if your bike is not level (maybe get someone to help you). Also, remember to put a little bit less oil than what it says on the side of the motor as some oil may remain in the top end. Take the bike for a short ride after you change the oil, let the bike stand overnight and then check it again (make sure the bike is level when you check the oil level window) it should be between the min and max line. Too much oil can cause damage too. Please feel free to ask me any other questions. Cheers Matt

@@TheDeepPlanet Great stuff Matt! I can easily get my hands on some timber so I'll use that for the first go. What's the reason your recommend cold oil if the filter is removed by hand. Does it comes off easier that way? Can I try it warmed up? I've ordered some gloves anyway. For the oil quantity, it says; filter not removed: 1.7 filter removed: 1.9 completely dry 2.4 So it should be 1.6, same as what you said in the video right? Yes I've seen that BMC filter as well, is it correct the board computer needs to be adjusted after changing the old air filter with the BMC type? Thanks again!

Hi Fenja. If you warm the bike up it is better as the oil will run out easier but the motor could be hot and burn you. Cold engine would be safer. I didn't get the bike tuned after I put in the BMC filter and have had no problems. Usually would only need an ECU flash after installing an aftermarket full exhaust system. Remember to dispose of the used oil at your local waste processing centre. Good luck. :)

Hi Michael. The 2006 - 2008 model has a thin hose that connects to the tank on the left hand side about half way up near the frame. DM me on instagram.com/thedeep_planet?igsh=NDV5bWp0c25rbTkw if you need a clearer explanation.

Hi Hussnain. First step would be to adjust the throttle cable. You'll need to get the tank off and airbox out to do this. There are a number of things to work through here : is the bike serviced regularly? Are you running iridium plugs? Have you run some fuel system cleaner through? Check idle screw setting and possibly do a throttle body sync.(check out my video on this) How many KMs has the bike done? Do you have a stock or aftermarket exhaust? If aftermarket, has the bike been tuned to suit the new pipe? Are you running premium or regular fuel? When was the last time you cleaned or checked the throttle bodies?

@@TheDeepPlanet Only bought the bike 4 months ago on 18000 miles.. Looks like fresh oil inside when checking the dipstck. Was going to change the spark plugs as not sure when they where done last and dont know if iridium or standard... What should the idle screw be set at if you know by any chance? And no fuel cleaner and running on regular petrol 95 ron.. Standard exhaust. Thanks.

@@TheDeepPlanet something else i have realised is that when idleing.. If i rev the bike really quickly, at times the throttle doesnt respond to the quick rev and at times when revving quickly, the revs drop first before they go up? Bike itself is in very condition and previous keeper never kept it out in the rain or anything.. Drives perfectly fine other than this small problem. Sometimes at a round about, I will rev it quickly to move off and the bike can cut out on me...

@@TheDeepPlanet also worth mentioning, when starting the bike up cold and waiting for the revs to drop (bike warm up), it can sometimes sound like the bike is going to cut out? It never cuts out though and maybe its meant to sound like that on idle when first warming it up not sure about that. Thank you very much.

Hi Hussnain. I would start with the cheapest/most likely issues first and work up from there. Sellers will often do a quick and cheap service (oil filter and oil change) before selling so they can put "recently serviced" in their ad. The plugs are quite tricky to get out and are expensive so they often don't get changed when they should. I would start this process by checking the condition of the air filter and replace it if it is old. Seeing as you need to get the tank off and the air box out anyway, pull out the plugs and have a look at them. If they don't look new, replace them. While you've got the air box out, have a look at the throttle body and check that the throttle plates don't have a buildup of "varnish". It wouldn't hurt to spray some throttle body cleaner in there while you're there. The bike should idle at around 1400 RPM when the engine is warm. Most of how to do this is covered 8n my tutorial on how to to service the bike. Sounds like she just needs some TLC... Good luck and feel free to message me if you have any more questions.

Thanks!!!

Hi mate. I'm planning on creating a video library of all the things you can do yourself. I may revisit the service tutorial. My best advice is to just have a go.

Hi mate. Are you wanting to know the shim size?

@@TheDeepPlanet the 4 exhaust valve what is the standard shim kit?

Best bet is to measure your shims and work out what you need to replace them with... There's a chart in the manual....