Great video, thankyou Bigtalltim. Sourced a part from a Vw breakers in fantastic condition for £25 and changed it over in around 2 hours with a brew break. Saved hundreds of pounds thanks to you. Cheers
Nicely done. Unlike the direction from the Haynes manual and some other DIY videos, you show that there is no need to disturb the door card at all - which is great cos it's a bit of a faff. Also, for everyone's awareness, it can be done without loosening or removing the side impact spar (handy if you don't have the requisite Star bit to hand). Just need a T30 Torx bit from a screwdriver set and small adjustable or ratchet spanner to get to the 3 fasteners hidden behind the spar. A bit fiddly but easily do-able. Cheers!
Cheers - and yes… the only time you need to touch the door card for a window related issue is to change the motor if it has failed. Thanks for watching!
Well this morning my window mechanism broke , that this happens in the worst moments 🤦. looking for a video to repair it myself this one is the best 👌 NICE and EASY Great job !
Best Step by Step Guide for a Successful Repair of my Golf 5 3-Door; a little bit more Time for my job; but it works! Thanks a lot! One Day Delivery by Amazon Germany for the Spare Part (about 40 Euros). Amazing 😊
Cheers! I always try to show the process “warts and all”… have always believed that it is the best way to show the tricks tips and workarounds for the problems you are likely to hit along the way - all the stuff we used to have to learn in an apprenticeship; Bit of a running theme on this channel. Thanks for watching!
@@bigtalltim my pleasure, and it was a huge a relief to fix the bloody window. It had stuck half way up. Had to plan my driving if the weather allowed 😂
Great video for first timers to do this on their own vehicles. How ever on my mk5 golf gti, I needed a 3.5mm allen (hex) key to remove the lock barrel. Not a common tool in the UK so just a heads up for anyone about to try and do theirs this side of the pond.
Did this on my 08 mk5 tdi, was great, this guide really helped. Only issue is I only had t20 torx bits and whilst tightening the door lock lost it inside the door 😢 not rattling though so left it !!
One thing I read (and then did myself) is to keep the bolts from round the door in order. They have to go back in the same place they came out of as some are slightly different sizes.
A great shout! One way to do this is to draw the outline of the door on a piece of card, and push the bolts through one by one as you remove them… that way you know exactly where they came from!
This was brilliant Tim ! I couldn't take off my crash bar cause the spine heads had been rung previously 😥I got it to drop at the other side just enough to work at it..Also to get the door handle off was a real bitch for some reason,I've to stick new regulator in tommorow
Many thanks 😊 you might be able to work those spline bolts loose with a vice grip (mole wrench) - they shouldn’t be too tight… definitely easier with that bar out of the way. Good luck!
@@bigtalltimmy door has been sagging slightly since doing this job, could it be that I didn't tighten the crash bar enough when reassembling?? Any ideas? Thanks again!
Sorry about the late reply - I missed this one! I don’t think that will be your problem… it might just be that the outer skin has gone back on a little lower; loosen the top two torx bolts on the handle end of the door and push it in a little… there is about 4 or 5mm of play the realign with the other panels
@@bigtalltim Just finished changing the regulator on my, almost exactly the same spec, mk V Golf. Your video gave me so many pointers and watched it 4 times before attempting to do this job, learning it so well to the point that I knew exactly which item to take out of the socket set for each bolt! One difference on mine was that the bottom of the left runner had a bracket that separates it from the door frame rather than screwed directly to the frame. It seems like this is in place so that the runner is clear of the speaker. Fortunately my replacement regulator had the same bracket so easy to sort. Only big issue I had throughout whole job was getting the door handle back on and it tuns out I had turned the screw inside the door lock too many turns (should be about 12 regardless of if it will go more or not) when removing it. Once I had corrected the position of this screw the door handle went on easily enough. Btw, Tim, thanks for the tip on the socket set including the spline bits. I found it and bought one and ended up using it for most of the bolts, as was better than the set I had.
Awesome to hear - and congrats on completing the job yourself! Not the easiest one in the world, so fair play for taking it on! Really glad the vid was helpful - Thankyou for your comment, and for watching; hopefully some of the other vids will be as helpful! BTT
My original left metal slider has a metal plate with two screw holes for the two securing screws on the driver door and sat almost vertical, but the new Febi one does not. I had to move the guide to the extreme right to align it with at least one screw hole to secure it, but it now sits slanted, and the window goes up and down a lot slower. I have asked Febi to check if they sent me the right part. The glass also seems to come away from its channel.
Hi TK4270! Not sure what that is all about… it does sound like you have been given the wrong part… maybe from a later mark or another model… Passat maybe. Good luck - let us know how it goes!
Great video, thanks. After replacing this on mine, the one press to go all the way up or down on the driver window no longer works. Do you think that would be an issue with the installation? Thanks again
Glad it helped! You probably need to reset the auto power windows feature... to do this, start the car, close all the doors and windows, open the window by pressing and holding the switch, and KEEP it pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully open... now close the window by lifting and holding the switch, and when it is fully closed, keep the switch pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully closed. That will tell the control system where the extremes of movement are, and should fix it! Thanks for watching 😊 EDIT: If the above procedure doesn't work, try it with the engine OFF, but the ignition on.
Hi there! I will need do this soon. Just took out outer shell out today and checked , and of course wire is broken. Just a question about put glass back. Don't be easy as well after installation, fully close window(glass up) and then tight up those metal clamps holding bottom glass? Just to be sure its on right position. Another question-have you got any video about replace weather trim on outer doors(that part which sliding outside the glass. Greetings, Tom.
Hi Tom - yes… it is a good idea to raise the glass all the way to the top before locking those clamps in place… never commit to locking the glass before you are certain that it is in the correct place. (It doesn’t handle stress well!!) I’m afraid I don’t have a vid on the weather strips - will try to get that done next couple of days! Thanks for watching! 🙏
You can sometimes get that effect if it isn’t latched properly… a little counter intuitive, but push the door closed from the outside until it latches properly, then should open. If it was as a result of the work you’ve just done, it would only be the outside handle that didn’t work
Hi , great video Tim . Had the door and handle off then managed to strip the Spline bolts from impact bars . I was using a torx bit . Any advice how I could remove ,
Hi @edquig! There are a few things you could try… vice grips should have enough access (mole grips), you may find that if you stick a piece of cardboard in the stripped out hole there is enough friction to remove, you could angle grind a slot in the end of the bolt and use a big flat blades screwdriver, or if you have welding gear, weld on a nut and use a ring spanner or socket…
I used your vid to diagnose the problem, new regulator required. Have re assembled, and last night the door wouldn’t close, then it did, guess what, won’t open now!! I didn’t mark ? The cable on removal, I just re inserted on re assembly, I wasn’t sure what you were marking tbh it can only go back as it was can’t it ??
Hi Richard - unfortunately not… the latch mechanism connector has a certain amount of adjustment based on how far along the slot you put the little plastic connector. It sounds like the outside handle that is the problem, so should still open from the inside - once you get it open, try moving the plastic block in the slot closer to the outside of the door so that the handle has more “bite”… should do the trick
Looks like ive just bought the same regulator..but mine had a cable tie on the cog the goes into the motor..do you remove the cable tie just before you locate metal casing onto the motor?
Hi Maximus! Not sure to be honest - as far as I know with all of the different types available after market the only cable tie that should remain is the one right in the middle of the bow tie shape… pretty close to the motor, but not attached…
After doing this on both driver and passengerside, i cant seem to get the panel to line properly up again. No matter how much I pull, i cant get all the holes to line up properly for the screws. Any advice?
Ok… have a close look at the bottom corner where the metal is folded round to shape the outer panel; it is possible that one or other of the edges of the skin is on the wrong side of the door panel… start with the bolts along the bottom, then the front edge finishing with the handle end of the door - wear leather gloves too… those edges can be sharp! Let us know how it goes
hey mate, do you think i need to replace my regulator? the window motor sounds like it is really struggling, the window wont go up, but it will go down. i cannot force it up. mechanic said it might be a cog in the motor (?) or the regulator "belt has slipped off" - what do you think?
Hi Jay - couple of things… it sounds for sure like the motor is on the way out, and that is more likely the brushes than a busted cog, but that is a different job. I think your big enemy here though is friction. You can help the motor out by reducing friction in the slides that hold the glass in place - it could be that crap has just built up in them over the years, and whilst it was nice and slippery over the damp winter months, it has dried out now and is hampering the winding. You’d need to experiment with lubricants, but silicone would be a fairly safe starting point. I’d open with using a toothbrush to clean the guides, then a cotton bud to apply some lube to the slots… you will be able to see if that has an effect without taking the door skin off, and then finish the job if it has a beneficial effect! good luck - let us know how it goes!
@@bigtalltim hey man, the motor seems fine! i got the door skins off today, and removed the regulator - so i can put my window up. i will tomorrow buy some regulators and try and replace the two rear ones that have the issues. the only issue i had was getting the handle off, and getting it back on (i cant get the retaining screw to line up on the handle). looks like im going to have to do it all over again anyway to change the locks too.. theyre both not locking properly. also, the handle sits a bit soggy now.. i will try to fix that tomorrow by holding it out and redoing that t20 screw out and back in
@jaywalker7622 cool - if something doesn’t line up, double check the bottom corner of the door skin… if it is under rather than over you can get that effect - take your time, and if something needs to be forced, don’t!! Everything should line up perfectly - re the doors, make sure you mark the plastic tag position before removing it from the handle mechanism… they are surprisingly sensitive to changes! Good luck!
Great video, thankyou Bigtalltim. Sourced a part from a Vw breakers in fantastic condition for £25 and changed it over in around 2 hours with a brew break. Saved hundreds of pounds thanks to you. Cheers
