Very good. One guy who builds log splitters in a factory in CA told me to drop a magnet or two in the hydraulic fluid tank. It will catch any shavings or metal that may be floating around, Thanks for the video. Ken from Indiana.
You did an excellent job of describing the hydraulic circuit and components of a typical log splitter system. There is one clarification I would suggest to clear up a misconception that some have. You described the oil flow from the pump to the control valve and back to the tank when the valve is in the center neutral system as being "high pressure oil". These systems are open center (meaning the in and out ports of the valve are "open" to each other when the spool is centered) and therefore no resistance to the flow is present. This in turn means there will be very minimal pressure in the system, as it should be. Open center systems should only see high pressures when there is actual work being done (i.e. the initial split of the wood, which is what requires the high forces). Pressure is the enemy to fixed displacement hydraulic systems when it is present without productive work being done. That is what causes excessive heat and wear. A well designed circuit will have test port locations where a pressure gauge can be installed to check pressure status at various operating conditions and valve positions for troubleshooting. It is important to understand that pumps do not pump "pressure", they pump volume, a fixed volume in the case of these types of pumps. Pressure is the result of a RESISTANCE in the circuit to that flow. The greater the resistance to the flow rate, the greater the system pressure.
Excellent description! Finally someone who explains the circuit simple and complete. I have one question: how do you deal with the engine temperature as this kind of motors are refrigereted by air and if not may overheat? Thanks a lot. Great job!
Very impressed, my log splitting still consists of me and my arms slamming a log splitting axe and I would love to be able to make something like this. Thanks for the explanation on how it all works for those of us not so familiar with using pressure tubing and the ram.
Finally a simple explanation on how it works. Thank you! I have a log lift on mine but it's manual lift which I want to change it to a hydraulic lift but I had no clue how the current set up works. Got it!
Nice tutorial. One safety issue I notice is that looks like a cast iron elbow (plumbing grade) on the outlet of the pump. Those cast seamed type connectors are not safe above 250 psi or so. You can get a steel seamless elbow for just a few dollars and make it much safer. Cast is fine on "return to tank" part of the system, but not the pressure side.
Me and Jenny..we were like peas and carrots 😉 Good explanation thanks for that. Was tinkering with a threaded adjuster on mine. No idea what I’ve done to it as nothing seems to have changed. Assumed it would have altered the pressure therefore the speed of the ram and power applied however no noticeable difference🤷♂️
Thanks HOSS-IT-IS, Video has helped answer some of my questions. I have the Northstar 30 ton splitter which I purchased in 2007 and has worked flawlessly until last fall when the filter seperated. I replaced the filter and have used it for several hours since and today it seperated again. What would be causing this? Also, when I removed filter a spring fell out of the filter holder. I am guessing this is some sort of pressure relief. Suggestions as to what to due?????
The reason the fluid gets hot is because it must go through a tiny orifice which increases friction thus generating heat so to reduce heat you could very easily add a hydraulic cooler which would reduce the fluid temperature thus lengthening the hydraulic pump life. Good job explaining it though! Easy to understand!
Hey thanks for the video. I just replaced a pump on a 27 ton Troy built log splitter and I get very slow to nothing moving on the ram. I replaced the pump because of low performance on harder wood. My thought was the pump was failing to go into stage two pressure. Me thinks my problem is air in the line. Documents on the splitter claim it is self bleeding. How would you approach this issue? Thanks.
There is a lot of difference in speed depending on if its 11 gallon a minute pump or a 16 gallon a minute pump and what size cylinder you have on your log splitter.
Well I would think your return line could or should be mounted higher on the tank because it would potentially cool the hydraulic fluid some anyway. Am I wrong ? It doesn’t matter. I would go so far as think you could even come in to the very top of the tank. I’m just guessing, thanks for explaining it. 👍✌️🇺🇸
I'm impressed with you're video ty. ? I'm building a splitter I have a 5/8 " shaft on pump do you have a clue what the GPM are 3/4 threads there are no markings on pump the hyd cylinder is 4" by 26" w/ 1.5 shaft running 16 HP engine w/ 30 GPM double throw valve center neutral and any thing else you can tell me .like working pressure, is it a 20 ton? Or what should I put a air vent w/ filter cap on tank I'm using old 10 gal beer keg .ty
Explained very good. Now I have a problem that you may be able to help with, As long as the splitter is not in use (neutral position) not is wrong but when I pull the control lever to split the wood the fluid pores out of the reservoir tank and the splitter does not move. Is the control valve bad or the cylinder bad?
I bought a returned 30 ton log splitter from a box store. I finally got it running, and on softer or smaller logs, it works great. On a larger piece of oak, and some hedge (orange osage), it knocked real loud as it slowly begins the split, once it pushes into the log the knocking eases up. Any thoughts on this?
Sounds like you have a two-stage pump and on the first stage when it starts into the wood is where you are getting your knocking from. Then the second stage starts it will be a little slower. If I were to guess the knocking is going to be in your pump. Not sure exactly which pump you have. You may be able to looking on the internet and see if anyone else is having the same problem. Hope this helps.
I was considering rebuilding my Huskee 22 ton log splitter, the engine (Bstratton 6.5hp 190cc) has essentially fallen apart after 20yrs (still runs tho) but the Hydraulics are fine and while its getting a little rusted i still think the frame has some life in it.. now, I think it may be a 9 or 11 gpm pump on the splitter. Do you think it feasible to put a 13gpm or 15gpm pump on it to increase the rate of cylinder movement? If so would I have to considerably up my HP in the engine? It doesn't seem to notice with the little 190cc when its seriously strained against a huge log so the engine already on it seems like it'd handle more power demand from a bigger pump.. maybe going up to a 7.5hp 223cc and 15gpm is a reasonable consideration?
My splitter was low on fluid and appeared contaminated. I drained the system as well as I could removed hoses and drained them. Replaced fluid and filter. It seemed fine for a few days. I attempted to split some rounds today. It pressed into the wood and stopped. The ram goes out and in fine. But it won't split wood. I tried a small limb about 4 inches That I would not have split to test it. same results. Briggs engine 8.75 runs fine. DR 22 ton.
Great explanation. Is there a formula to go by? As far as PSI, hoses and pumps I'm clueless. I'm just beginning my splitter. I bought a 12 HP Briggs and Stratton electric start riding mower. Thanks for your video.
This is the pump www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321055_200321055 This is the cylinder www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200511882_200511882 you can look at other stores this is just to let you see what kind of parts you will need some pumps can't be turn vertical must be turn horizontal hope this helps I don't know if the links will work or not. If not let me know. here is another cylinder daltonhydraulic.com/?slug=product_info.php&cPath=28_123&products_id=385 This is the detent valve www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_472_472
Very helpful video...thank you for sharing. Im in the process of trying to design and build my own log splitter. Welding and fabricating is no problem but the hydrolics is somthing I needed help with. Someone gave me a brand new five horse honda motor and Im hoping to use that. How do you go about sizing the pump and the cylinder?
We're there options on the pump as to fluid movement? Now I am wondering if the 1 inch fitting, hoses through out the unit would it create less heat? This it a great vid! Do you have a parts list, cost sheet ? What do you think about a prince valve? What are my options ? Thank you
Nice video... I own an Ariens 22 ton log splitter and noticed I have hydraulic fluid leaking out of the Denton valve from underneath. My question is how do you tighten that connection? Are there any o-rings or anything you think I might have to replace in order to fix the problem? Thank you so much for your help.
Would it be better to have the filter before the pump, or in the return where you have it? Seems like the oil should be filtered before it enters the pump/valves. Thanks again for this explanation, definitely helps a newbie like me!!
It's best to have the filter on the return line.The hydraulic fluid gets to run through the filter many of times during a wood splitting session.If it were between the pump and the tank you would have all the pressure from the fluid in the tank trying to come out during filter changes some times I just change the filter. Plus if the filter get a hole knocked in it you won't lose all your hydraulic fluid.
Have a North Star with no other fluid/hydraulic filter other than a screen inside on the supply side nipple, I believe. Should I consider adding one [filter] as this is only a 22 ton, home use? And, how many hours can be used on the hydraulic fluid before changing it? Thanks for a super explanation on hydraulic op.
I have an old home made log splitter. I put a new motor on it and it split wood good for 20 minutes. Now the piston cylinder moves both directions, but isn't strong enough to split wood. Any thoughts what could be problem? pump? valve?
You can also make a cooler out of copper or steel pipe BUT it needs to be the same inside diameter as your hoses or larger, probably 1/2 inch. Don't need any restrictions in the return side. It'll just blow the hose off.
Hey hoss you still splitting wood? I'm building a wood splitter and I got to set up just like yours but now I want to come off the pump and give myself some hydraulic pressure to another ram to lift up a gate and drop it down bring the rounds to the splitter from the side of my truck can you explain how I do that with the hydraulic pressure line split it if I put in a valve in each line they have them screw in valves okay take care and thanks for the video.
Thank you for explaining how the system works. Do you have any suggestions on where I can purchase the main components. Such as the pump, valve and cylinder. Thank you.
I have a cross brand valve that detent will not kick off once it returns all way to cylinder looks similar to that valve I have tried either loosing or tighten the detent release valve and still nothing
I have a older John Deer splitter 5 givin to me and the lines need to be flushed. A small reservoir for a tank. The only way I can think to flush the system is to fill up with hydraulic then run it, and drain it again from the tank with a pump. Then refill it again. Is there an easier way?
You can take the return line off put in a old bucket. Then fill tank Run pump keep filling tank while pump is running until you run 5 to 10 gallons through it then you should have all new fluid through hoses and cylinder. You will have to be using the lever to run the cylinder all the way forward and all the way back. This will be the most expensive way to do it. hope this helps I would use the cheapest hydraulic fluid you can find.
HI a Friend just gave me an old log splitter that was made from a cannibalized fork lift. I had to replace the motor and the old motor turned the pump clock wise and the motor I have now turns counter. Will the pump work either way or will it only work clock wise? I don't want to burn it up. I have been stumped ever since most folk I know don't know. Thanks for the vid. I wondered what all that stuff did.
I have a question about my logsplitter.....kind of silly because Im just throwing it out there but I was wondering why my splitter seems to work harder on the "return" cycle under no load as opposed to the splitter not struggling at all under full load with quite large rounds being processed....if you or anyone has any suggestions please feel free to let me know. Im just baffled as to what could be wrong. It is well built and in very good condition but the return stroke has me confused. Thx , and great video by the way !
Is it possible to put a hydraulic oil cooler on a wood splitter...home made...inexspensive...how much pressure is on the return line. My neighbor insists on running my wood splitter in the middle of a hot summer day ...4 gallons of oil every time he blows the return line off...
Excellent explanation. Question, I have a 17 ton Northstar splitter where the ram came out after splitting a log and it's now stuck put. I was told to check the couplers where the engine shaft connect to the pump to make sure it's not slipping....what else could it be?
I can se it spinning, the guy said it might be slipping enough (if the set screws were lose) to not be spinning the pump fast enough,....but after just running it, it certainly looks like its spinning at a good clip. This is why I am so "stumped" :)...it does not make sense why its not sendind the ram back to home? could a hose be clogged, or the little screen filted be clogged?
James Fox the Lovejoy couplings have key way in them so I don't think they're slipping. can you change the hose from the front of the cylinder to the back and the back to the front and see if it'll work
But it's works correctly even if I Have the hoses backwards but detent just don't kick off once it's returned all way to cylinder so ya going check out in morning and swap the hoses around and see if that fixes it
I have an old homemade pulley system. The pump went bad. Going to replace all except dentin valve with a system like yours. Between my pump and the dentin valve, there is another valve in my system that increases and decreases the pressure by turning a screw in or out. It also has a return line to the tank. Do I need this valve? I was told that if I omit it, the system would blow up. Thanks!
I have question you. I have 13 HP Honda motor from a pressure washer. I want to take the pump off and mount the engine for a splitter. How do I size the engine and hydraulic pump to the shaft? I may have to weld an adaptor plate and extension to the engine but I am not sure where to start. Thanks for the video. I learned a lot
You can get a adaptor at TSC I would put a 16 gal pump on the 13Hp motor.You can get adaptor off ebay you will need a Hydraulic Couplings here is what it looks like www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_hydraulics+hydraulic-couplings+hydraulic-half-couplings here the pump www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321055_200321055 . here is the adaptor you need to know the bolt pattern they have 4" or 5" hope this helps.
You can get a adaptor at TSC I would put a 16 gal pump on the 13Hp motor.You can get adaptor off ebay you will need a Hydraulic Couplings here is what it looks like www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_hydraulics+hydraulic-couplings+hydraulic-half-couplings here the pump www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321055_200321055 . here is the adaptor you need to know the bolt pattern they have 4" or 5" hope this helps. Show lesswww.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200337126_200337126
A question or two about the hydraulic fluid: Does changing it involve anything more than simply draining the reservoir tank and refilling, plus changing the filter? Someone told me you should flush the whole system out with kerosene, but how do you do that, exactly? (Just fill it up and run the machine?). And how do you get all the kerosene out again before you put in fresh fluid? Does the fluid from the hoses and elsewhere automatically run down into the reservoir when you drain it? And any issue with air bubbles, getting them out? (I can't find a video anywhere on RU-vid showing how to do this, which is a bit odd.) Thanks!
Hi. I need to replace the gasket on the hydraulic pump. The seal is shot. It's a 78 lickity splitter. Do you know any video that can help me or can you help me plz? We can't afford to have it fixed, they charge almost as much to buy it brand new plus 2 week waiting list throws our ranch, household, and business out of commission which we cannot afford!! Plz help. I've been looking online for a while and can't seem to find what we need. Thank you.
Con Ogden I changed the hyd oil and worked the cylinder by hand to get all the oil out. NOW how do I bleed the system of air so I can get to work? PLEASE!!!!!! Thanx in advance Con
Thank you for this video. Question, my hydraulic fluid is constantly cream colored. It must be from condensation. It is expensive to keep changing. Any ideas. Respectfully Dallas
dallast21 I had a backhoe do the same thing small leak was making a little whining sound and was making the hydraulic fluid foamy I held a rag over all the joints until I found the joint that was leaking air into the system but fluid would not leak out. when you use the rag make sure it is wet
Hi Ihave log splitter It will split small pieces but no pressure to split big ones. It it seeping a little from the cylinder and some from the detent valve. Any ideas how to fix it. Thanks
I am trying to work out how you calculate the right size pump for a given size motor ...I have a 6 horse power ...also are all gallons in America 3.785 litre or are they just your petrol gallons you put in your cars ...or gas as you call em...most places around the world use imperial gallons which are 4.546 litre or litres
www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321055_200321055 www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321051_200321051 This is how you can tell what pump you need the first one needs a Minimum 8 HP or larger gas engine. The second one needs Minimum HP: 5. Hope this helps
hi how would you bleed the system, I have a leak in my splitter it is weeping from the back. I want to try and replace the seals myself but not to sure how to remove the pressure from the system to take apart.
Hi.from NZ.type in your specs on this website for tonage,there is another calculator for cycle speeds too www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_calc.htmBore size would be the most determining factor for tonage and shaft size for return speed.ive just bought a cheap ram that is 3.5 inch bore with 2.5 shaft so its not the gruntist but will have a quick return speed running a 22 GPM pump.
Egidio Borg It's the inside diameter of the cylinder that determines how many tons of force it can push. The shaft size determines how fast it will retract.
I have an old log splitter Mighty MAC. When I pull the handle back to retract the piston hydaulic oil shoots out the back where the bleeder valve is which is basically a cap with holes in it. Any ideas what is happening?
That's not a bleeder valve. That's the detent or valve kickout. It's got 'o' rings in it that go bad. You can set the pressure you want the valve to kick back out to neutral with it. Before you tear it down or start taking it off or apart, back off the lock nut and run the middle all the way in so you know how many turns to back it off after you rebuild it. Then if it doesn't hold, adjust the middle part in until it does that snug up the lock nut.
I'd put the filter in-between the tank and the pump so the fluid gets filtered. Before it runs threw the pump. And put a magnet in bottom of tank to collect any metal shavings🤘
The reason most people put the filter after the spool valve is there is good pressure to push all hydraulic oil through the filter. It's easier to push hydraulic fluid through the filter than to suck it through filter.
Buna ziua vreau sa fac si eu un spărgător am un motor de 7, 5 hp nou daca sunteți amabil puteți să îmi spuneți și mie ce pompa sa cumpar, distribuitor,cuplaj, cilindru etc.sunt din Romania si nimeni nu vrea sa imi spuna la sigur mulțumesc.
i let someone borrow my log splitter. they added hydro fluid when it didnt need it. it was spewing fluid out of the relief hole but they kept splitting wood until the ram would no longer split the wood but it would go forward and back still, just no pressure on the wood. i realize it can be a lot of things but could this cause pump damage?
hoss-it-is--thanks i just wasnt sure where to start. i drained and changed the fluid and cycled it. i will look at the pump. thanks for the response and nice job on the vid!
@@fishman80 I'm experiencing that exact problem now. Somebody overfilled the reservoir and now I don't have much power behind the piston. Thing is a foamy mess inside and I'm currently draining it off. Did you get yours to come out of it once you got the proper level restored with new fluid?
For the past 3 - 4 months, when I would start the engine, at high RPM it would sound constantly labored, rather than the normal "good" high RPM. Just two weeks ago, I was using it I heard something "let go", the ram stopped moving (I was retracting it at the moment when whatever "let go"), the engine went right back up to its 'normal' / good high RPM, but I have no hydraulics. Upon looking closely at the output shaft of the engine there is that fancy looking cylindrical block that connects the hydraulic pump to the output shaft of the engine. I'm being told that there is some type of a shear pin in there that is the first thing to break as a safety feature so you don't grenade the pump or blow the motor. What would cause the engine to be running constantly labored, that would ultimately lead to that shear pin breaking? I have only had this thing about 3 years, its probably a 2005 model, the hydraulic oil filter has never been changed in the time I've had it, and the fluid has been appropriately topped off here and there, but never a complete change. Could the hydraulic oil filter be clogged to a degree be enough to make the engine sound labored like that? So now to do a COMPLETE hydraulic fluid level change in it, should I be pulling all the hoses off, draining them, inspecting them, pull the hoses off the pump, look for a screen that could be clogged at the intake to the pump, do I have to disassemble the pump itself (aside from just pulling the pump and fixing whatever sheer pin that may have let go), etc etc? really not a lot of info online about these. thanks for your help.
+Bryan K I would just loop a hydraulic line from inlet to outlet to see if it is in the pump after that I would just start eliminating things filter,valve,hoses,cylinder
You don't want any restriction to the inlet of your pump, keep the filter on the tank return. I would actually recommend a larger hose for the inlet as well, your pump will thank you.
Darrin Holstine Did you replace it with the same size hose. They have different size it's like a garden hose you can have a half inch or 5/8 inch garden hose still have the same ends
I have taken some of the hoses off the valve assembling and all seems to be be flowing (with the engine off of course). It looks like the front of the cylinder is not getting enough fluid / pressure to send the ram back home. The guy at northstar said the level assemble pretty much never faisl, it may slow down and not split wood, but that would only mean there is not enough pressure somewhere. Any ideas? I stumped and getting pissed I can't figure it out.
James Fox the reason I ask is your pump may not be putting out high pressure may just be putting out a low pressure. the best way to find out what your pressures are is to have a gauge. hope this helps
James Fox the reason I ask is your pump may not be putting out high pressure may just be putting out a low pressure. the best way to find out what your pressures are is to have a gauge. hope this helps
I do not. I was splitting wood and all was fine, 50 logs in and the ram went forward fast, faster than normal, and now just stays forward. I took hooked up a strap to it and forced it back which was tough. Started it up and the Ram went sailing forward again....so I would assume there is pressure (going forward). for the life of me I can not understand why it wont go back...could there be a fluid block not allowing fluid back to the tank? Could the engine shaft be slipping not allowing "enough" pressure to bring it back
James Fox, I read both of your posts about your problem. It is clear from your description that there is something wrong with your directional control valve. There is nothing else that could be wrong that would leave you with the symptoms you describe, especially the fact that the ram immediately went to the full extended position after you had manually retracted it and restarted the engine. Check to make sure that the lever handle is properly connected to the spool. The spool is the metal plunger that moves in and out of the body of the valve. That spool is what controls the direction of the flow of hydraulic fluid. My guess from your description is that there's something wrong internally though. Contact me if you need any further help.