$150 to $200 a sheet. simple.... 3000 divided by 32, a board sq ft times $150 equals $13,950. these days the numbers are good. When this video came out Trump was in office. In the Biden Corporation economy all materials are up 300% and labor must be up accordingly
i will you your technique of square footage. After years of doing construction your numbers work out. Thank you so much for the tip.@@1mandrywallarmytv144
If you are drywalling duplexes,townhouses,or any multi-apartments buildings.... make sure to calculate the surplus boards required for fire code applications.A 20x8 wall that separates two adjacent units will have to be doubled up in thickness ,with fire code board,.....usually 5/8 thick too...., therefore adding quite a bit to the final estimate.
I'm not mad at the ridiculous idiots who slap mud on walls and call themselves drywallers either bro. I just feel bad for the negative experience the homeowner gets and our names being marred. Keep up the videos bro! I love the articulate content.
I am glad you're not mad at the ridiculous idiots who slap mud on walls and call themselves drywallers either bro....because......really ...THOSE idiots ....including yours truly....LOL...are called tapers. Lots of ignorant people seem to put the two trades together....but they are not the same at all...they are as different from each other ,as the framer is to the cabinet maker
@@MolloRelax Totally get what your saying Mollo Im talking about people who rip people off with shit work. I do million dollar homes in Colorado/Historic homes from 1800's in Manitou springs Cheyenne mountains and even those folks get chumpped. Its so easy for anyone who has never done drywall to buy a couple of sheets and a play with all elements of the craft in thier own time. Its So when I see folks get taken advantage of, I feel like theres no excuse for that bad business in our industry. Thats what I was getting at. I also appreciate what you said.
I measure every wall. Typically I get a pdf of the floor plan. I mark up the wall heights on the floor plan pdf, or printed floor plan. And then use specialized measuring software to measure the job. Unless it is a remodel where there are no relevant plans. Then I measure with a laser distance tool all walls and ceilings. I charge per window wrap. I charge extra labor for anything over 9 or 10 feet in elevation. I measure and charge for linear feet for Fry Reglit. I charge extra for round walls, etc.
sounds good. Everybody seems to have a different way to tally the total number. I really appreciate the reply you just gave. In the end not every job do i bid the same, ultimately making good money is my primary objective. thank you for watching
Great video. You nailed all of the key components in a very straight forward manner. -efficiency, time is money -show up, answer your phone -know your worth -pain is gain SOLID!!! Thank you.
Question??? A hurricane just hit florida. I just ran a great flood demo gig. Went great. I’ve done drywall for a year as employee. I want to run my own business, LLC and insured ect. Can I get away with charging $20k an average size house. Just to sum it up and move on?
Good question. However it is a little loaded . To be honest you are being very vague by saying the average size house. How about speak in terms of total sq ft of board space and the type of texture and ceiling height and so forth. Those are the thing that matter when it comes to bidding. Does the job require. What part of town make a difference as well. I like how you are ambitious but put the client first! Build relationships and base pricing around that and the actual cost of doing business and their budget. Not every job opportunity gonna work out right for you. You will learn how to jump or run. I've run from many jobs opportunities if I get red flags blaring off of the charts I don't bother. That take time and experience to avoiding the losers. I wish you the best. Best regards Andrew
Hi @1mandrywallarmytv Could I request your help? My father recently had a stroke and became very ill. He ran a small Drywall business where he would give bids. I am trying to bid while he is recovering but I am not too sure how to interpret his past bids. I keep seeing the number (4.8) where you have your (3) in his notebooks which reminds me of your rule of 3's. Do you have any idea what that could signify?
I agree with you!! time is money, BUT this works pretty well when you are giving a rough price or a true price. But you could also waste money if you don't look at the finish schedule on the plans for each ceiling and walls and you end up over price or you do get the contract and not every wall or ceilings get drywall and you sent the material regardless, extra material on site its also a waste of money. this is mainly for custom homes or custom commercial in this days . I used the 3.5 rule and does work, but I feel confident to used it to provide rough prices. thank you for this video though good stuff
It's differently a good starting point to bid drywall. Ultimately looking at the job to confirm the numbers makes sense is recommended on every job. And yes the finish will play into the big picture . Thank you for watching my friend!
Sir thanks for your video. Could you make a video on how to estimate steel frame and how the payment process works when you get the contract, how we determine that from the start day of work when I will get money to run business expenses at the running project.
that's a great question . And yes the higher you go the more you should be charging. Once your feet leave the ground your time just doubled at minimum. For example if you bid work at 8 foot ceilings then from 8 ft up would require a price increase. The client rarely understands how quickly high work slows down production. You need past performance to how data to work from. Adjust your numbers from there
I was wondering the same thing. I used to do drywall but a long time ago. A one point, he makes reference to whether the work is smooth or textured. That made me wonder if he was talking the finishing.
I really hope anyone answers but how much do you ask upfront? Or how does that work? Any legal documentation in order to avoid getting stiffed? I brand new at biding and have gotten stiffed twice. I threatened one with a link after reaching out to the store unit real estate agent and they paid up. But how can I avoid this and wording it to them on how much I require upfront?
depends on many things in California you can get only 1000 or 10% what ever is less for a deposit. Once you start the job ask for more. Have all of this in writing require a signature Be specific stating how much money on what dates and so on. Hope that helps
I'm kinda new to all this but all I do right now is I plaster walls/tape, patches, and texture(Age 20) and would like to know how to charge because lately we have been doing alot of remodeling and when it comes down to getting paid we get paid cheaply over here in Vegas. I would like to know if anyone could give me some advice or a link to a video to help me have a better idea how to accurately charge prices for Taping, doing Patches, and texture.
at 20 I can feel your ambition. However bidding requires planning, budgeting and hard work. Dont sell yourself short. With time you will understand the game. Vegas aint that cheap so get that out of your head. You can make good especially in commercial. Cheers
@@1mandrywallarmytv144 do you know the proper way to charge because I have been doing this ever since age 18 right now I understand and know how to do everything when it comes to taping, patches, and texture but what I don't understand is how to properly charge and it's been getting to me because sometimes I have to be up 12-15 balancing on a plank or on stilts off ground on remodeling houses and for us to get paid very little since it's three of us who are doing this as a group it sucks but hopefully I'll figure out something.
@@martindelira5014 Hey man I'm currently studying for my drywall contractor's license. I strongly recommend you purchase "walker's building estimator reference book" as a great starting point for guidance on how to bid drywall properly. I strongly recommend you also purchase "Builder's guide to accounting". And one final word of advise: develop labor and material time and cost records!!! Why? So that you have a point of reference for future work base on on your past experience. Remember the point of the bid is to compensate yourself for the value you bring even after paying all your direct cost and overhead. Also keep in mind that the sweet spot is having privity (direct contract relationship) with the client: from there, the money flows down. Therefore: Aim at eventually getting your license if you don't have it yet. Good luck man!
Duuuuuuuudddddeee!!! I embarrassed to call myself a contracto!!!r If you are trying to call yourself a craftsman and business man...STEP 1 put down the beer can and turn the camera OFF!!
If I understand right you want to know about 3.5 Times floor spare. Meaning if a home is 1000 square ft in floor spare than if you use the 3.5 Times rule giving you approximently 3500 in board space . This allows you a preliminary view of the job before you actually see it in Person.
you seem like an honest person, and that goes a long way with me rather than a fast and/ or smooth talker, I had a guy shamoo me once with all the fanciest terminology the trade had to offer, I was intimidated by his eloquent rhetoric and how fast his hands were working as he talked, I didn't want to seem like i wasn't as savvy as he was, so I hands him a blank check and the keys to my new pick-up for the materials, but when he doesn't show back up by that evening, I goes in to ask my wife had she heard from this guy, got a call or something, and low and behold SHE'S GONE TOO! well I says to myself as I grabs me head in my two hands " I been BAMBOOZLED'!
Just starting to branch out on my own doing drywall, and just finished my first job solo. I’m moving onto my second solo job, and the biggest obstacle I have run into is how to properly bid and getting correct amount of material. Any and all advice and tips are appreciated!
I have a question, I feel stupid asking this, as I've done it both ways, but what is the correct way. When there's a recessed joint running across the wall and butt joint intercets and runs vertically into it. When your mudding the butt joint, do you stop as your approach the beveled seam , or do mud right through it , stopping on top of the beveled seam?
Everyone is doing it wrong . Let’s say you have 200 sheets my system is to make money . 7 k is what I bid on 200 sheets they pay for material . That’s how I do .
Thats easy. If you are just hanging board you can either submit à number and do it by thé job oe give them à sq ft price. Always pay yourself right! Drywall can be brutal so you should be compensated properly. Thanks for watching
that could work in certain situations, however if you did every job that way that could get you into trouble. Itemize your expenses that way you are covered!
It could if you are demoing the entire job otherwise I would measure it up and create a demo number all by it self. This way you are not doing any demo for free. I hope you will make righteous money on this job.
I've done it, several times. Usually tape, then run 2 coats in the direction of the tape. 3rd coat: run the knife across the tape,... then 2 full surface skims... alternate direction on 2nd full skim. Should only need to use a sanding sponge in a few spots, when done.
Excellent video breakdown. What would you charge to sheetrock, tape and mud a 2100 sq ft house? Based on your experience what is a competitive price & what price is highest robbery?
Such a loaded question. So many variables. Let's say 2100 square foot with 8 foot ceilings. Orange peel texture. No paint. Standard rental dwelling type of unit. $5000 labor $1500 material and stocking fee total $6500! 1 day to hang and 2 days to finish. 1 extra day to cover surprises 4 calendar days get it done taking your time make more than reasonable good money. I work 6 months a year in the pricey county of San Diego California and still live comfortably!
@@1mandrywallarmytv144 Yeah, sounds like a comfortable pace. I'm thinking you pay each of your guys ~250/day and your pay for this job would be ~750/day?
Very good info, God blessed you!! Do you know how much could be the lowest for commercial jobs like hotels or stores lets say. Hung, finish and sand 4x12 sheet. I am in Ohio and and i know prices change from region. Thank youu!
3x method is used to calculate how much sq ft of drywall space yo should have on a residential drywall job with 8 ft ceilings. The 3x ruler is used as a preliminary method calculate the amount of drywall there without measuring every single wall. Hope that helps
the actual rate could and does vary from state to state. This video shows the quick process that I use to bid jobs fast without using tons of time bidding jobs that I may not get. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video and taking the time to explain things clearly! I’m trying to start something with my husband, he knows all the labor work but I’m trying to learn the bidding and all the other details needed to run a drywall business. I know how to read and understand blueprints so that’s a big plus, and I’m about to buy the books for the state exam. Any advice for someone who wants to start? I think I’m mostly scared about not passing the state exams. Is the license necessary to bid? (Sorry if that’s a dumb question)
