Hi all in this video I am showing you how I like to bond my gas and water pipes as an apprentice electrician , I chose to pigtail my cables as it leaves slack if it is ever needed to be moved . Do you do this ?
I'm agreeing with the comments. Pig tail is a no. Even though it's a short run it will add inductance to a fault and potentially have poor outcome. Also I was taught it clean the pipe first, usually with strip of Emery cloth.
Great vid Adam, I believe the reason why we put the safety label on top like that is to do with not having the label (often made of aluminium) in contact with the copper pipe which can lead to galvanic corrosion
Great video Adam, leaving a bit of slack is always a bonus be it straight or pigtail. I was always taught to position the tag back over the screw to deter anyone from removing the cable. Keep up the good work buddy
Sound video Adam, the reason you are not supposed to drill through the back of the gas box is that if there is a gas leak there the gas would go up the cavity.
I am in the USA, but I don't understand the reason for the "pigtail." That adds inductance, and adds more cable. You want it as short and straight as possible for ground lines. Otherwise good work. 👍😁
Pigtails are known as Loops in cables which are allowed. But coils in cables are not allowed as these can induce an electromagnetic field. Loops are shorter and not wound the same as coils therefore they assist with adding termination slack and releasing cable strain from the gland to the termination connection. Strained cables can create loose connections as copper/aluminium electrical cables expand and contract due to thermal effects and not meeting torque requirements of connections. Loops have zero turns while coils have many turns of wire/cable.
Adding pigtails to fast transient earths is a no no as it increases the impedance, therefore for consistency better to avoid pigtails as a rule unless required for vibration decoupling
I'm GasSafe and Napit reg'd. I prefer not to pigtail and try to create the shortest possible path to ground with leaving enough slack incase any amendments need to be made. We don't do rear entry into the gas box incase of gas escaping and entering the property. Same principle for the gas pipe itself, especially If it's a medium pressure installation. Equapotential bonding isn't required if the installation has polyethylene pipe upstream of the meter itself. Again same principle for mains water. The lighter near the gas meter made me cringe a little. Still a great little tutorial though 👍🏻
I'd generally prefer the pig tail also being GasSafe and NICEIC registered. Last time I sat my renewals it was classed as ID for rear entry on medium pressure installations. & regardless of Poly being upstream we're required to bond, you can't use Poly downstream of the meter though - rigid or semi rigid metal pipe only.
I dont think you really need the heat shrink as the crimp connector and the earth strap are bare metal , also to be using a lighter beside gas ....Noooooooooo
I like to keep the clamp away from soldiered joints on copper pipes if I can. Just in case it does weaken the joint. Keep up the videos and keep an eye on Dave if he is behind you!!! ;)
Great content Adam, the only recommendation I would suggest is when Nick says something, in this example about the "cross-bonding", try and elaborate on that just to help other viewers with understanding the terminology. Keep up the good work!
The pigtail is a funny one, college lecturers told me that curling the cable puts stress on the copper and insulation. I think its personal choice, for me I would take it to the top of the gas box and then back down to the copper pipe.
Good video Adam, never done the pig tail myself but might have a go next time ! 😁 Will have to check the regs, but I’m sure it mentions that if the gas meter is external you should bond it within 600mm of entry to the building. Why did you choose to bond in the meter cupboard itself, is the entry point in bulding too inaccessible? Although saying that, the majority of new Builds I see, it’s often bonded in meter cupboard.
Great video ad great for learners you’ve came a long way since ur first videos.. do yous do pig tails in the uk.. we don’t do it in Ireland because it can induce Eddie currents and faults..
I'm an apprentice over here in Ireland and we were thought not to make pig tails specifically because it makes a longer path to ground. I know it is F$&k all in a big ship but the less distance the fault current has to travel, the better. (Even if it looks tasty ;) )
the screws in the side of the gas box fixing it to the wall need to be sealed as gas could escape into the wall cavity and you could get gas build up !! we away fix the gas box in the wall with expanding foam adhesive
Should be within 600mm of gas outlet as perhaps regs and please never bring them through the back of the box as it needs to be fire sealed as a gas escape could the fill the cavity wall.
Couldn't get the driver onto the head of the screw did you not consider turning the clamp and fitting it on the pioe sideways. As for pig tail not for me thank you.
on my first job like you i used crimps ive been told recently and after looking at am2s videos they just wrap the copper round the screw and tighten it. is it swings and roundabouts or is one way how it should be done
WTF is going on here?! This shows up in my feed, I see Nick Bundy and then Dave Savery in the same video. I would have double checked what I'm smoking, but I'm not smoking anything!
@@seanyorke4295 Yes but if it's not possible to do this. Then it's also acceptable to equipotentially bond on the gas or water pipe entering the dwelling.
You good job. Loads of flux on that gas pipe, wonder if that was the meter man or the plumber. Bet Dave is gonna drop that rom to see if there is any victorian porn on it.
Gas bonding - within 600mm of the Meter before the first Tee, or within 600mm of the entry to the building before the first Tee. Regardless of the incoming supply pipe, be it polypropylene (yellow plastic) or not. Same is true of Oil supplies from Oil tanks, though you're better off bonding an oil supply after it transitions to pipe and away from Soft Copper Pipe. Also very nice to see you bring up the bond in the correct position and not through the back of the meter box. Very nice pig tails to boot.
@@andrewcadby All pipework gets bonded consumer side of the meter which is required to be in rigid metal (steel or copper, or semi rigid ie trackpipe). Gas Meters are supposed to be securely fixed to the fabric of the building giving them the same potential as earth. It's a Gas requirement to minimise explosion risk rather than a requirement of BS7671 for electrical safety.
Its like 20p or something on a job that costs 10's of £. And the cost of not having it will often hit down the line. Props to tradesmen who go the little bit extra to make a big difference I say.
Pig tail add extra resistance that's not needed Also get the correct size lugs and it makes a nicer job 10-5 lugs fit properly look nice and fit into heatshrink easier
