How I Built Custom Frame Rails For My Datsun 280z Project 

Sorry to hear about your accident! Yeah, I know cut off discs can be dangerous. I should probably put my guard back on, I took it off because I couldn't get in a corner to grind a weld a while back. And probably should have used a c-clamp to hold that square tubing to the bench instead of holding it myself. Thanks for the subscribe!

Nice! C-clamps ordered lol@@BLOKgarage

It's been a thought but I haven't made a decision yet.

It's amazing. I couldn't imagine doing this laying on my back. Well worth the effort to build it.

I have an Austin Mini that I would like to put up on two old engine stands. @@BLOKgarage. I agree with you...I think the project of fixing the car will seem much easier once you can spin the shell. Great job. After the video I called a friend and told him about what you had done and how you worked through some of the steps.

Keep up the good work mate.

Appreciate it

I think it was the right call.

Definitely will be using seam sealer on every seam!

Thanks! These frame rails really should stiffen the car up a ton.

Appreciate it a lot!

Glad you enjoyed it

Hmm I did try that once and it didn't seem to help much. I'll give it another try!

I actually did that years ago when I built my LS1 swapped S13.

@@BLOKgarage oh, cool! Great work, by the way.

Go for it!

Appreciate it!

Thanks 👍

Damn that is a really good idea! I've been trying to think of a way to do something like that, tried a couple things that didn't work. I might have to try that.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Got any more details on that? I'm having a hard time picturing it.

@@BLOKgarage then you can stuff a piece of radiator hose on the end for a seal.

I looked them up, that definitely seems useful.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks!

100k would be insane!

Thanks! I've never actually driven one so I'll have nothing to compare it to but I think it'll be worth it!

So that 2 1/2" tubing you got, how thick is it?? I need to do the same on my 76 z lol

@@frizae86 I believe it was 1/8" wall.

@@BLOKgarage awesome thanks!!

Thanks! Those memories are what I hope to have for my kids with this car.

@@BLOKgarage It rubbed off, i have a modified 1967 mini now. I am creating different memories with my kids as they race karts. Good luck with the build, i will be following with interest.

His idea helped me a bunch!

I'll most likely do some auto-x and drag racing but it's not what I'm building the car for. Might still want a cage in it though, I haven't decided on that yet.

Thanks!

Thanks! Hopefully you can get back to the 240z soon so I can steal ideas 😆

@@BLOKgarage lol 😂

Not a bad idea!

Thanks, I really appreciate that a lot!

The magic of youtube! I try to keep in the issues I run across so everyone can learn from my mistakes but there's so much that I have to cut to get the videos from being super excessively long.

@@BLOKgarageI will definitely save this video for the day I work up the courage to redo my banged up frame rails on my '82 280ZX Turbo, you're doing the lord's work my guy.

I haven't decided if I'm going to do that yet. I will have to drill a hole regardless because I'm going to coat the inside of them with Eastwood internal frame coating. Not sure if I'll plug it or weld it back closed.

I did try once with my shop vac but it didn't seem to help much. I'll probably revisit it though.

Seam sealer! Every seam should get seam sealer just like it did at the factory. Although I did end up fully welding the frame rails I'm still going to seam seal them.

Appreciate the sentiment!

I'm sure it was some cost cutting and they didn't expect us to be driving these cars 45+ years later 😆

Not sure but the brackets near those rear frame rail extensions look like they're for the rear sway bar, just wondering if that's why the factory didn't extend all the way to the rear. Looking at pictures, this is the case but they also show swaybars mounted behind the diff / rear suspension, so perhaps production changes later on?

@@arrindaley3714 Sounds logical Arrin :)

​@arrindaley3714 yeah that's the swaybar mounts. You can get aftermarket bars that go to the rear. I'll either do that or possibly notch my frame rail extensions a bit, depending on how much would need to be taken off.

Yeah I've seen/heard of other people doing it that way.

I'll keep it in mind but I hope to never do Datsun frame rails again! Although I'm sure it could be useful in other situation.

Thanks!

I have it back on now! Took it off to fit in a tight area and got lazy.

You need approximately 60" per side. The stuff I used was 1/8" wall.

You're definitely going to want to support the car in the middle too while you have it cut apart. Not just on the end. It'll really depend on how good your rockers are as that is where a lot of the strength is on these cars. I would want to plan for worst case scenario because if the car flexes its going to be really hard to get it back straight after.

The one on the drivers side was probably usable. I almost just patched that floor but figured I'd rather just replace everything while I'm there.

@@BLOKgarage i think the floor pan is the only thing holding my diesel 280z together. i don't think my 260z is any better. i was able to score some aftermarket rails and rocker panels from a local guy that was moving to Alaska, he had welded them onto his car then cut the car up to sell off the good panels. luckily his booger welds arent very good so reclaiming the pieces wont be hard.

Diesel 280z?!

@@BLOKgarage yep theres a couple videos on my channel, and links to my IG. i used to have a lot more on my instagram but i got hacked and my FB and IG accounts got shut down and erased.

I'll check it out!

It is 1/8" wall.

Yes I used weld-through primer on the bottom of the floor pan and backside of the frame rails.

I don't think its much more weight. The square tubing is only 1/8" wall, which is more than the OEM sheet metal rails, but I don't believe by a lot. Plus its all down low and you gain a ton of stiffness, which I would say is a good trade off. I thought the same thing about putting the lips on the edges of the rails but don't think its necessary. They are only there from the factory because everything is spot welded, so you need a lap joint.

@@BLOKgarage i thought the lips with holes, then weld them like oem because it might rust less in the future, still debating on that, but you're right about stiffness and such!

I'm sure it would be fine either way but I'd be more worried about rust on a lap joint.

@@BLOKgarageyes! that's another point to look on, it can be grinded and painted but, i think best to do would be just shape new sheet metal

The Klassic Fab panels are 18ga, OEM sheet metal is 20ga. Doesn't sound it but there's a big difference. You really need to dial in your welder, that's the biggest tip. Practice on some scrap. Then you need to concentrate your weld on the thicker panel.

@@BLOKgarage thanks! Can't wait to see the next video awesome work Dude

I don't envy you!

I wish mine was ready for paint like yours!

I bet that works well doing it like that!

It's 2.5" x 1/8" wall.

I bet that would work well!

That’s cad. Cardboard aided design. Very high tech

😆

Just some cheapo Amazon discs. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DYQD55R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

So I did it incorrectly at first. Initially I put it approximately half way between the bottom of the frame rails and the top of the roof. This made it too bottom heavy as there's more weight on the floor. I'm sure there's some math that could be done. What I did when I moved the pivot was to watch someone else's video that had it pretty well balanced and then did some guesstimating. Luckily it worked out well. On rotisseries that are purchased, they generally are able to move the pivot up and down. You could fab yours with that ability, I just don't find it necessary on a one-time use rotisserie.

@@BLOKgarage Thanks for the info!

1/8"

I hope I never have to do this again 🤣

Very cool! Family projects are great.

I thought about that but figured it wouldn't be necessary.