How I Buy a Classic Car 

This was really nice from the perspective that you were able to look at the car and see the good stuff and not focus on the bad. It drives me crazy when people think they are doing you a favor by looking at your car and finding every microscopic scratch and telling you about it. Thanks for doing a thorough job and not being a deal killer.

I bought a 1971 Pontiac Grand Prix in 1987,it was sitting in a garage for eight years when we found it,the original owner passed away and his wife wouldn’t sell it,when she passed,their son sold it to us with 28,000 miles on it,now has 75,000 on it.Through out the years we have replaced anything that needed to be replaced or repaired,from water pump to radiator but kept all original parts,even the radio.This year we pulled the 400/4bbl and replaced all seals,motor mounts,timing chain,anything that needed to be fixed was fixed,been driving it every nice day this summer,about to go for an early morning cruise now.I love driving around before the humans rise. Hope everybody finds their classic for a reasonable price and is able to enjoy it.

Hey there Jeff, this was awesome 😎👍 content, in my humble opinion!!! You hit all of the major items to screen for, most important of which, to enlist someone like yourself. The small amount of money to pay a competent person, if your really interested in car, can save you thousands, and stave off massive regret and heartache... Great segment brother. Please don't forget to let Jackson out the Mach 1 trunk, it gets too hot down there !!!!

Ran across your video this morning. Really informative. Enjoyed the whole presentation. Great audio and video. Looking forward to more videos.

That is a gorgeous Fastback. A friend of mine had two 67 fastbacks in the early 90’s

… Good overall inspection, Subscribed

As always, a great education. The rubber plug on the shock tower got my attention; I've seen where some didn't even bother. A big thanks for your remarks about the damaged frame rail and rear drum brakes. A lot of the points show the need for familiarity with ewhat you are thinking of buying. It's also a good idea to match the VIN to the title; I've seen many classic vehicles, particularly pickups, advertised with a wrong year model. I once saw a 1968 Galaxie advertised as a 1969. The seller had bought some cars at an estate sale and, not only not knowing how to ID year models, the problem was compounded by not verifying the VIN. This seems to be fairly common. Another guy was trying to sell a 1973 Ranchero as a 1972, because the manufacturing date was July of 1972 (had a 1973 VIN, model year changeover time). Not enough aspirin to take care of that kind of headache.

Great video!

Would love to see you do a collaboration video with Uncle Tony's Kiwi friend. You both have Phd's in Ford-ology. And ya couldn't live too far apart.

Very nice Mustang.

What a beautiful car!

Thanks! I'm looking to buy in the spring. I'm trying to get re-education and up to speed !

In real estate it’s Location … Location … Location. When it comes to classic cars it’s Rust … Rust … Rust.. my wife’s 1965 Mustang was 99% rust free. Our 1968 Mercury Cougar only had some very minor surface rust. Everything else can be purchased at NPD or West Coast Classic Cougar. Rust repair is very expensive.

My biggest peeve on this car is that the “M” in Mustang on the passenger side is misaligned.

Couldn’t be explained better. Thanks. Of course I personally care a lot to the details and history, but that’s personal preference. I definitely recommend getting advice from an expert like ARM before buying a classic car.

really good informative video! thanks

Good information and review of the process. We're assuming this is a medium to HIGH dollar example, but this is a good initial inspection, Jeff. Check the documentation, Marti Report (if available), build sheet, etc. From there, we'd have to get it on a hoist, no if's and's or butts. These cars can hide too many surprises... perhaps some that the current caretaker isn't aware of. Look closely for evidence of serious collision damage... back in the day many cars were patched together, sometimes whole sections... in the most unscrupulous manner. We once seen a car where the whole rear body section was just tacked on... all hidden by filler and undercoating. We'd examine the entire body with a proper high quality paint gauge, for comparative readings. Then, get it in the air and start pokin' and proddin'. Use a good snake light/ camera combo, check those front rails, torque boxes, get inside them if possible with the endo camera. Rust is your worst enemy on these cars. Also, get inside that cowl from above and thru the firewall under the hood, if possible. get a good look at all the door and trunk seams, peer inside the trunk up towards the front. You are looking for corrosion, evidence of water leaks in the past. Get that snake inside the quarters, probe the front lower sections. Same goes for the front fenders. If the owner has the results of a recent wet/dry compression check that would save you from doing it... if allowed. At very least, he should let you do a vacuum gauge test; Even that tells you a lot about the condition of the engine. We've only touched the surface here on what should be checked out, don't forget the clutch/transmission/rear axle, although the drive should reveal most issues there. Caveat Emptor is the order of the day...

I have a tool called "Filler Detective". It is highly accurate on determining body filler thickness. A must if looking to buy a car like the one you are examining.

Nice car.👍😃

Just yesterday I bought a restored 1967 Mercury Cougar. It is two toned black from the bottom of the windows and from there down it's silver metalflake. It is a numbers matching 289/C-4. With a Vintage A/C system a thumpy aftermarket radio new windshield new headliner and also carpet with new upholstery on all of the seats. It has the Shelby drop and some 17 inch Shelby style rims. At $21K I think I got a pretty good deal on the car. The only thing "wrong" with it is the steering wheel is to big. The distance from my knee to my ankle makes my knee hit the bottom of the wheel. So I'm going to have to change to one just a little bit smaller.

Yeah I get what you’re saying when you say, “a car someone gives a crap about” it means it isn’t a flipper special. I’ve seen some real crap out there. A buddy of mine bought one, I felt bad for him, but he learned a lot.

A good "Driver quality" car is never perfect, which is what I like. You can use it, no biggie. Same with clones & coupes converted to fastback, that were properly done (but not represented as "Original"); you can enjoy it more with less worry

Thanks!

Maybe it's time to lock Jackson in the trunk of the Mach 1 until his attitude changes.

I'd like some more info on the 77-78 cobra ll in the background.

I don’t like mustangs. But this car looks damn good !

Great video Ford power forever l love it

Always love your videos, have a question and hope you can give me a answer. I have a 67 mustang convertible that I want to put a 2000 mustang leather interior into, how would you recommend to install the back seat? Would it be easier to buy the rear sear mounts for a 2000 mustang? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Curious of the price?

23:10 brake lights. Good?

Is the red Mustang looks like a 68 in the background for sale?

i wanted to know the cost of the car?

Great Videos thank you... Whats on your elbow?

wow its got a passenger side door mirror you'ld be surprised the trouble ive been in with law enforcement with only 1 factory mirror build sheet for my coupe says manufactured august/67 and that year had the clutch pedal spring of death no automotive or body shop will touch it to replace bushings i discovered a trick to remove it safely without busting my fingers 69 had a more modern setup clutch pedal spring other issues with my 67 hauled up from texas the glass fuse terminals were so cooked they became metal fatigued so bad every light was dim yellow and mice had chewed rear tail light wires inside rocker panels those were bare copper all the way back. there's a big X support spot welded behind rear sear back spot welds often let go indeed they were on mine i still need to change out front spring perch bushings rubber is totally rotted away quarter window regulator nylon bushings SUPER hard to find these days and gooooooooooooooooooood luck finding the front amber colored side marker light bulbs they do not eggzist and i am so done searching for those. the factory build sheet was tightly wrapped black taped hidden to wire harness behind gauge cluster has the vin # also had to rebuild shifter assembly take out the play

The only way to buy and restore classic cars is WITH HUGE AMOUNTS OF DISPOSABLE CASH OR CREDIT LINES.

A RU-vidr is a potato with a camera and a dream.

What did the new owner pay for it?

Did your viewer/client end up buying it?

$67G

They seriously need to mow.

Ha it don't Mar the paint...black shows all

Great video....but come on man, the left lane is for passing....don't be that guy

I think I have more "crappy" cars than you do.

Do we really need the stupid music when out test driving the car?

Thanks!