How I Do Dot Filtering 

Thanks matey amd Bask now has put you in the draw

Harry Houdini Models :-)

+Gerard McCabe or how to make a dotty mess and call it weathering!

+Van Diemens Land Model Bench glad you liked them... I also show a lot of aircraft weathering in the Skyhawk playlist.

I hope my example helps you. It's a fun thing to do and very rewarding.

+Armour Empire Thanks mate.. I plan to update it down the track at hi-res and add in some parts I left out in that one...

+AltCtrlFreak thanks.. not hard to do once you know the proceedure.. I also show a similar method in the Hetzer videos using Ammo Mig enamels

+Harry Houdini did you apply a gloss coat before putting on the dots? I've got a Jagdpanzer I'd like to try this technique on.

+AltCtrlFreak It is best to seal the layer first.. I had used Tamiya rattle can lacquer on that Su-152 and that stuff sets hard so did not need a clear coat. So yes a gloss or matt clear coat is usually needed before doing dot filters.

+Dan Knispel Hope it is of some help.. I will do one at high res later this year and add some more tips

+Harry Houdini Models I'm always up for more good intel, thanks again :-)

+Non-Prolific 1/35th Scale Model Builder Thanks mate, not as detailed as your videos but just a simple how to.

Harry Houdini I found it detailed enough to understand it, Harry. That's what counts. :D

Hope it works for you

+Sjoerd Roozenbeek they give you a lot more control.. in the old days its all we had

Yes mate if you look at the Panzer II videos and the Skoda ones on weathering Tracks links to a Metal look.. I show and use the Tamiya makeup weathering products.

Is this process done over top a clear coat or just a top the paint layer? I ask because if you brush thinner over the dots, how does the thinner not hurt the paint below?

If you alternate acrylic then enamel and let each layer cure before doing the next, then the relative thinners wont affect the preceeding layer, because they each have a different chemistry. If in doubt run a thin clear coat between layers.

You need to seal the lower layer. I used Tamiya rattle can lacquer in my example which when cured is very hard and wont be affected by an oil based thinner or paint over the top. Unless you are using Tamiya Rattle cans then you need a clear coat to seal the base colour before dot filtering.

The drying rate depends on the solvent you use... the Tamiya enamel thinner is formulated to dry quick.. for me in a few hours on a warm day... however when I used an odourless thinner it was almost a week to gas out and dry. Same with turpentine which took ages to dry on my Stug. But once dry yes you can apply an acrylic sealer like Future or Humbrol clear or a Lacquer spray such as Tamiya clear.. however enamel over enamel runs the risk of reactivating the filter and causing paint runs.