(How) I finally got rid of these blobs!

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I'm currently testing the Alfawise U30 Pro and the Ender 3 Pro in a side-by-side comparison. The Alfawise showed strange blobs on parts, even printed in vase mode, which is very unusual. Let me show you how I fixed that problem with a quite un-common slicer setting!
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23 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 948

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Don't forget to share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!

@FireN2k9 4 года назад

@Riggs Oliveria Normally good leveling eliminates rough backsides. Rafts are also not known for generating good surfaces. I think you have much to google now ;) For example: 3D Printing Tutorials

@FireN2k9 4 года назад

@Riggs Oliveria If backside means first layer side and if it looks not good as you say... Either is your extrusion multiplier too high (too much comes out) Or its leveled too near Or your extrusion multiplier is too low. Without pictures, nobody can say what your problem is, thats why you have to search your errors and find it out yourself. I guess you are very new to 3d printing. Maybe find an facebook group in your native language. That will help. Greetings :)

@Deqster 4 года назад

Another excellent video Stefan!

@maxxpreston 4 года назад

Excellent research, especially important to 8bit printers

@chance9979 4 года назад

Thanks for doing a deep dive on the GCODE. I think it's something that is often wrongly overlooked on all the channels. Getting more information out into the open source world helps accelerate development throughout community.

@CapitaineBleuten 4 года назад

I love how the title is not clickbait, the thumbnail is not hiding the answer, the video is right to the point, and the scientific approach. We’re never losing time watching your videos! Don’t ever change that please!

@vidznstuff1 4 года назад

Engineering approach. Scientists rarely reduce stuff to practice.

@jonasbrandt7733 4 года назад

Jup thumps up really good👍🏼... But as a German I can say: his pronunciation hurts😂😂😂.

@Rabbid0281 4 года назад

Thats usually his M.O. :thumbsup:

@pacotato 4 года назад

This is exactly why I just subscribed

@lit2021 4 года назад

@@jonasbrandt7733 he has a nice German accent, thank god he's not Swiss. xD

@louis-ericsimard7659 4 года назад

Stefan I love how your mind works. No guesses, pure measurements. This is awesome.

@ravenoustraal 4 года назад

@_ David _ It was a testable hypothesis, though, and was tested with data. This is science.

@seamusbyrne8259 4 года назад

@_ David _ well isn't everything a guess then, or at least started as one. Testing it is what makes it out of a guess.

@kontoname 4 года назад

@_ David _ He didn't guess he observed. It's also clearly shown in the video using a slow-mo video. Maybe you should start to guess less and observe more?

@kanesmith8271 4 года назад

@_ David _ you got some egg heads mad lol

@Prusa3D 4 года назад

In many cases it is better to decimate the mesh as this might cause small errors when each layer gets simplified separately. 👍

@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations 4 года назад

And how are you supposed to do such thing?

@andrewryan7686 4 года назад

@@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations I'm only just getting started with it, but Blender has a "Decimate" tool which is apparently very effective in the latest version and will reduce the complexity of your mesh with limited drops in visual quality.

@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations 4 года назад

Is there such a tool available in prusa slicer?

@Deserthacker 4 года назад

@@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations You could also use Meshmixer which is very simple, compared to Blender. I think Blender is a bit overkill here.

@davidpoland1056 4 года назад

The other question is how would you know in advance that your print will blob. It seems like you would need to pre analyze the g code like Stefan did, then make a determination based on the number of small print moves (which would be a pain for each print)...

@paulbarber8600 4 года назад

You sir are a life saver, I tired retraction, temperature, flow, coasting. I couldn't get rid of the zits on my prints. This setting cracked it thanks so much!

@MakeWithTech 4 года назад

Brilliant. Uncovering and explaining "hidden" slicer settings is extremely valuable for the typical 3d printer user. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to figure this out.

@ivanhunghch 4 года назад

the 0.05 and 0.5 graph showed the beauty of this channel. AWESOME !

@adambarlev8992 4 года назад

I love this type of short video. All of us who 3d print have troubleshooting experience like this - solving small problems. Its good to see it so well documented.

@ArtificalSUN 4 года назад

I've done my own research on this subject recently and what I figured out is that Cura ignores resolution settings completely if you have Compensate Wall Overlaps enabled, since it prioritizes flow adjustment and sometimes generates tons of 0.01 segments, depending on the model geometry.

@astro7996 4 года назад

I've been fighting the stutter with my printer for while now and for the life of me I couldn't figure out, I'll disable that.

@keichide 4 года назад

I never really got what that Setting actually does.. or how i benefit of it. But seems like i can finally turn it off now.

@3dprotoplanet948 4 года назад

Very interesting, I have been having some blob as well as unexplained retraction issues. This may be the ticket. Thanks!

@rivera82falcon 4 года назад

Trying this now on a vase and so far I don't see any blobs. Once the print completes, I'll try with another file that has supports since that gives me the most issues and blobs. Thanks for the tip!

@keichide 4 года назад

I can at least say, that the Gyroid Infill prints now much smoother and i could'nt see any blobs until now

@Revenant759 4 года назад

I ran into this with a stock Ender 3 a few months ago when I was testing faster print speeds. Found the issue only showed up at higher speeds and with meshes that were too detailed. Reducing mesh and/or setting up the slicer resolution solved the poor surface finish completely. It's a good setting to tweak on a per-print basis, depending on speed and resolution you need!

@bensnapper6577 4 года назад

I've been struggling for ages with this problem on my Geeetech A10 and changing these settings sorted me right out, perfect prints - Thank you so much

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Happy to hear that it helped!

@free_spirit1 4 года назад

Instead of adding new features, CURA/UM should just add diagrams and pictures like what you show at 3:35 in an info box next to each setting. There's no point in adding a million settings if the user doesn't know what they're changing.

@ZappyOh 4 года назад

Good point!

@ExternetEx 4 года назад

Most settings are described on their website Cura wiki. But yea its hella confusing sometimes. Same with the new retraction minimum distance settings.

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Download the CURA Settings Guide plugin. That will add a lot of pictures to the tooltips.

@free_spirit1 4 года назад

@@CNCKitchen Thanks for the tip!

@deltalima9640 4 года назад

Yay! Picturs!

@f.d.6667 4 года назад

Again - probably the smartest 3D printing channel on YT! Well done!

@ALZHEM 4 года назад

No thumbs down and over 600 thumbs up. Never seen it before, and well deserved. Congrats! This is awesome!

@crawlerin 4 года назад

Still somebody had to put some downvotes.

@RATFather 4 года назад

I gotta tell you - your youth combined with your intelligence absolutely blows me away completely 1,000%. I am very glad I found your channel. I am so new to 3D Printing that I haven't even prurchased my first machine yet because I fear my decision is going to waste money because I have no experience or knowledge. But your channel is quickly giving me the knowledge I need and I am deeply grateful for it. Thank you and keep it up sir!

@tamaskajfis3649 4 года назад

The most useful 3D printer channel on RU-vid!

@nutkickermotioncontrol8238 4 года назад

This video was the straw that broke the camels back and made me become a patreon :-) Consistently great cotent! Thanks Stefan!

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Happy to have you as a Patron!

@J_CtheEngineer 4 года назад

A similar problem occurs on regular CNC machines. Especially when doing 3D contouring. Fusion 360 has a similar setting under tolerance and smoothing. And is interpreted as an allowable deviation from the actual path of the Gcode in order to make moves more smooth and reduce the amount of gcode you are producing.

@barrytripp1800 3 года назад

Thank you so much for this info! After having my printer for about 6 months, I finally felt like I had it down enough to get myself some pretty silk rainbow PLA and my prints were NOT turning out good. I've done temp towers, retraction towers, watched so many videos on whether or not moisture is a concern and I re-sliced a vase with these settings. Its' not even done yet but I can already tell this made a HUGE difference.

@THE-DIESEL999 8 месяцев назад

Thank you for making this video! I can’t wait to see if this fixes my issues! I want to thank you for the quality of content you make and how you make it. Your videos are dense, but you make it easy to understand. And thank you for not adding all that annoying filler that plagues every video anymore. Keep up the amazing work!

@Pete_the_Fuzzball 4 года назад

I may weep with joy you said "the proof of the pudding is in the eating"...You said it right! No one says it right and that kills me, you just earned a subscriber my knowledgeable friend.

@Gkitchens1 3 года назад

I've never heard it said right either, it made me smile.

@becauseican2607 4 года назад

I solved the same issue with slowing down Print speed. Thank you for let me Print fast again 😁

@REDxFROG 4 года назад

Only the high poly models are affected

@becauseican2607 4 года назад

@@REDxFROG if i make a Model in openSCAD im always getting crazy with the number of fragments, probably also a Thing i should think about.

@REDxFROG 4 года назад

@@becauseican2607 yeah same. However the polycount basically only matters on the large PC Monitor. On these much smaller prints and 0.4mm nozzle the individual polygons aren't visible. :D

@Sekir80 4 года назад

@@REDxFROG There's the owl model, I'm sure you know which one. It is 150mm high. I test settings with that model, only printing it 60mm high. The model seems very detailed, even the back of it, but I still see the polygons after printing it. Sure, this was not the case on every printer I used.

@amandaschulze5093 4 года назад

You are a lifesaver! I had that problem since I started to use cura. Even the creality support had no idea how to solve it. It cost a lot time, nerves and shitloads of filament until I found your video! Thank you very much for that!

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Happy to help!

@Latinbalar 4 года назад

So you have answered the issue I have had with my ender-5. This zit issue would only come up on prints with round surfaces. It makes sense that the stock board couldn't handle all the calculations needed to run a round path and it was pausing like you mentioned. How ever this comes a bit late since I am currently changing to a 32-bit board. But this video has won you a subscription. Keep up the great work.

@savageboredom 4 года назад

I’ve also been chasing this issue on my Ender 5. I’m really excited to try this out and hope it finally gives me those smooth surfaces I’ve been listing after for so long. Btw, what 32 bit board did you go with? I’m thinking about doing that soon and have been eyeing the skr mini e3, but it’s so cheap that it seems almost too good to be true...

@brine1986 4 года назад

I also had that problem when I used Raspberry Pi Zero as Octoprint host: poligonal models printed fine, but organic forms suffer from jittering resulting in small blobs. Reducing the resolution did help

@1w5k 4 года назад

Pi Zero CPU is to weak to handle this kind of workload I also give them a chance but I got so many problems with it. I switched to Pi3 and now it works smoothly and perfect

@Filagram 4 года назад

Also ein wirklich großes Lob an dich Stefan! Ich finde deine Arbeit einfach wirklich klasse. Die Tiefe und die Details die du dabei herausstellst sind wirklich leicht nachzuvollziehen so wie du diese erläuterst. Es ist schön, dass du deine Ergebnisse und deine Entdeckungen mit uns teilst und diese auch der ganzen Welt in Form der englischen Sprache mitteilst. Mach weiter so, ich bin ein großer Fan und habe schon viel von Dir lernen können. :) Hut ab!

@kaustuvakash2311 3 года назад

Thankyou so much, vase was fine but other models, even pretty rectangular ones suffered from blobs, this helped a lot.

@isildur5 4 года назад

I printed a figurine with and without the tweeks (Cura / Ender-4). GCode : 5Mo => 4Mo. "Hesitant nozzle causing blobs" => "nozzle confidently deposing PLA" Real printing time : 1h33 to 1h27. No doubts : it's working. Thank you!

@sebastianriecker3402 4 года назад

Funny I just found out about this problem this week before I saw the video! Nice to see, that you backed up our theory with some measurements and additional informations. Could have saved us some time. Very nicely done as usual - thank you very much, great work!

@yiorgos-theo 4 года назад

Another option is to use a lower resolution when creating the STL file. I used to choose the highest possible resolution, I have since switched to High or Medium setting in Fusion 360

@Averell64 4 года назад

you gotta be careful with this though - while i havent had any problems like that with fusion i had huge issues with catia when i exported as stl files especially for round objects (chances are that this is a catia-problem though seeing as catia only uses stl/brep for visual representation with very little processing power whereas fusion was made with 3d printing in mind)

@thebeststooge 4 года назад

@Averell Dalton Solidworks as well. Now in Solidworks if you go too fine you get the same issue and things are no longer manifold.

@Averell64 4 года назад

@@thebeststooge ahh, doesn't surprise me though as solid works is dassault systems as well - good to know though 👍

@thebeststooge 4 года назад

@Averell Dalton What is ironic is that the value you can reach is model dependent so to get something that works with everything while still producing smoothness you have to back it down by 10-20% and just leave it.

@Averell64 4 года назад

@@thebeststooge oh boy, French logic I guess... If dassault systems software wasn't so god damn powerful nobody would use cause its a users nightmare 😂

@tobigr5163 4 года назад

omg i posted in so many groups this problem with my cr 10 v2, noone had a right answer, watched this video and damn thats what i tought the problem is, ill test print now ! THANK YOU

@81supermanny 4 года назад

This catch is absolutely brilliant. My results for curved surfaces have completely changed. It's a night and day difference.

@juststeve5542 4 года назад

Top man! You're a lifesaver! That's one issue with my home-build printer solved (hopefully!).

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Let us know your results!

@REDxFROG 4 года назад

Its not a problem with the printer its a problem with CURA in particular!!

@noahhastings6145 4 года назад

@@REDxFROG Dude, what is with your hardon for Cura? You've got a problem.

@FireN2k9 4 года назад

@@noahhastings6145 There are always some guys who bought S3D, dont feed the troll :D

@hanswurstusbrachialus5213 4 года назад

@@FireN2k9 On S3D ive never seen such a problem.. not even on these printers.. lol

@nilshopfengartner4131 4 года назад

Still the most innovative and useful 3dprinter on youtube! Thanks again Stefan!

@bodegacoastlockkey4259 4 года назад

I'm one of a bunch of volunteers printing some face mask frames for a group in the San Francisco Bay area (Maker Nexus) who in turn is making personal protective equipment for local hospitals during our pandemic. I was getting some major blobs on large inside curves. Dialed down the Maximum Resolution to 0.1mm and solved the problem. PLA on a FLSun QQ-S Delta with Cura. Great info Stefan! You rock brother! Thanks for helping us help our heros in the hospitals!

@CdoGtheGreat 4 года назад

Bro.... You did it again! I keep learning new things and I'm entertained. One of the best 3d printing channels ever! thank's for sharing.

@wforider4786 4 года назад

Your attention to detail is amazing and inspiring thanks for all you do for our community!!!!!!

@scottbaeder37 4 года назад

Awesome use of Excel! Love the analytical approach to things!

@christophedecostelabelle8930 4 года назад

You just solved my worst nightmares. I've been having those exact problems for a couple of weeks and didn't know what to do anymore. You just won a new subscriber my friend. Thanks!

@MarkMichalowski 4 года назад

Stefan, du bist der Mann! (As they probably don't actually say in German). I'm currently reprinting a vase-mode, full-size Night King head (from Game of Thrones) in PLA on my Tevo Tornado and using Cura for slicing. The plan is to encase it in plaster, then place it in the oven to soften the PLA so it can be removed, and then use the plaster negative to cast a latex mask. I say "reprinting" because the first try had to be assembled in three horizontal slices because of extrusion problems. It took the plaster well (after brushing on melted petroleum jelly to help smooth the layer lines and to help with pulling the PLA out in the oven - which worked better than I thought it would: the trick is to gently pull the PLA away whilst it's still in the oven, and still hot and soft) but the surface was terribly zitty and blobby. As I type this, I'm looking a two-thirds finished re-print on my machine with your suggested settings (I expect it'll all go tits-up when it reaches the crown of the head, and the overhang angle becomes too much, and I'll need to fill in the missing bits with a 3D pen and filler!) - and the surface finish is absolutely stunning! I'm struggling to see any zits or pits at all. It looks flawless compared to the previous one, and to many previous prints in general. This feels little short of magic! :) Thanks, Stefan - love your videos and your precise, analytical style!

@nxy6123 3 года назад

Alternative (mainly for 32bit Boards because of Flash size) is ARC-Support in Firmware in combination with Arc-welder plugin for cura or as plugin for Octoprint to modify existing Gcode files. What it does is making the small linear movements that will get a curve into a curve so it decreases the file size dramatically and also the ammount of gcodes your printer has to handle. Since I found out about this I use it always because also the printer itself is running much smoother then (because it doesnt draw many short linear lines but a curve)

@dreggory82 4 года назад

We are struggling to print with experimental HDPE filament at work, would you do a video about it? You would be one of the first youtubers to cover HDPE filament.

@Solice-lx8mk 4 года назад

No offense, but if it is work, shouldn't the business you work for have some kind of r&d for it if it is experimental, instead of trying to get someone else to research it for your work without any compensation? It comes across as someone who's trying to get an artist to create something for free for "exposure".

@rivera82falcon 4 года назад

I had the same exact issue as you but doing this didn't solve the problem for me. In the end, it was my RPi that was the issue once I connected my printer straight to the computer (Lulzbot Mini). Still, I made a small adjustment in the resolution and my last test print looks even cleaner. Do not stop making videos, seriously. Your work is top notch and my son and I love watching and learning from you.

@WillowCreative 4 года назад

I had this problem when I went from creality firmware to tinymachines firmware on my CR10S pro. I did find this setting before this video and changed it to fix it, but it's nice to see this video explain everything!

@JohnEdwa 4 года назад

Yup, I used that setting to fix printing fast with gyroid infill streamed from Octoprint. The issue isn't only with the mainboard, but simply that sending Gcode through a software serial port in standard ASCII format is extremely inefficient, so you can only send a certain amount of commands per second. When you are printing something round fast enough it's actually made out of a ton of tiny straight moves and you just run out of bandwidth, and the main board catches up with the data in the buffer. At that point in needs to slow down or even completely stop, until enough commands have been sent through for it to continue. It can be solved by reducing the resolution and therefore the amount of commands sent, by increasing the serial bandwidth rate, or by increasing the command buffer size in the firmware so it can receive more commands while doing longer moves (which helps with short bursts, not a full layer of gyroid). Or by switching to Klipper firmware that does all the Gcode stuff on a Raspberry Pi and sends only the stepper motor timing pulses through the serial connection.

@REDxFROG 4 года назад

Or just reduce the polycount and optimize the model

@bumv2 4 года назад

I Had the same problem with another printer. It produced horrible noises if the serial line run out of commands, because the acceleration was switched off by a slicer setting, so it did abrupt starts and stops whenever the queue was filled/emptied.

@EZY3DLAB 4 года назад

Thank you! As always your channel provides very helpful content with hard scientific facts and results! Keep it up 👍

@bjornwegener3233 4 года назад

Alter ein tolles Video! Macht nur weiter so, ihr seid ein echter Value-adder für alle 3d-Druck Fans

@markovigele3939 2 года назад

Danke !! nach 8 Jahren hobby 3D Druck bin ich nicht auf diese Einstellung gekommen! Das löst viele Probleme! Super erklärt 😀

@lilhotdog7011 4 года назад

This guy consistently impresses me. Keep up the good work my dude!

@ollegoop5699 4 года назад

I have used this setting for a while now. After lots of research this was the only way I could use octoprint with my wanhao i3 plus without getting severe quality degradation.

@aracon9721 2 года назад

Danke, Danke, Danke, Danke!! I've wasted days figuring out why the nose of my Benchy was full with ringing-like deformation. Finally I've found the explanation.

@RCShowdown 4 года назад

I had this issue on my Ender 3 and never got rid of it. To be honest - I gave up on fixing these blobs. I cleaned the nozzle so many times, dried the filament, tweaked the retraction settings but nothing helped. Some models looked perfectly fine but others were just awful. I will give it a try tomorrow. :D Thank you so much for this video!!! Viele Grüße!

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Let us know if it worked.

@rosserobertolli 4 года назад

Haha, nice to see that Cura has other (worse) settings in their "standard" profile than in their profiles for their own machines. I have seen this before, compare for instance the outer wall jerk and outer wall acceleration for their own printers to their standard "custom FFF machine" profile.

@mjennings97 3 года назад

Never had any of these blobs until I upgraded my Ender 3 to direct drive. This helped so much! I set my max resolution to 0.5mm, max travel resolution to 0.5mm, and deviation to 0.05mm. Slicing in Cura btw.

@Nolano386 4 года назад

Thanks to this video and the comments, I was able to fix a similar problem that I had been troubleshooting for over a week. thank you.

@detlefschrempf5387 4 года назад

Wow, I was looking into that problem for a few days and couldn't solve it with the most common tweaks. And then you come with this.... Great job! Totally worked!

@StephenBoyd21 4 года назад

I've just found the setting in PrusaSlicer. It is under Printer Settings / Advanced if anyone is curious.

@skyreadyrc5873 4 года назад

Using PrusaSlicer 2.1.1, there is no "Advanced" under Printer Settings. What version of the PrusaSlicer are you using?

@DigitalFairySarah 4 года назад

@@skyreadyrc5873 PrusaSlicer has 3 selectable settings: Simple (green), Advanced (yellow) and Expert (Red). You toggle them on the top right and the higher settings expose more customization options.

@jeffroetman5132 4 года назад

Out of curiosity - what did you set the resolution to in PrusaSlicer (or have you tried anything besides zero)?

@Jackjan4 4 года назад

Great video! Another solution to this problem would be to increase the command buffer in Marlin

@soloked 4 года назад

How do you do this? Can I do it with the stock board? I don't know much about the software side of 3d printing.

@hunterpruett5455 4 года назад

I’m so glad to see a video on this. I struggled with this for a year and after lots of testing I finally discovered the gcode issue and found that cura had max resolution, and my results were instant, but it seemed so out of the ordinary.

@anonymouse527 3 года назад

1:42 There. This is the point at which most people would give up. But Stefan takes it to another level. And then another level. And then... you get the point.

@MaacAbra 4 года назад

Thanks, and I think that this work deserves a SUB. Here you have it! ;)

@santiagoblandon3022 4 года назад

This video fits like a glove!! just yesterday i was looking around and playing with those settings!! Amazing!

@laudavhutcheon946 Год назад

This video saved me! I have been building a 2m x 1.5m x 2.5m printer with a 1.6 nozzle since covid began. it would mostly print okay but I was getting blobs and frequent layer shifts. It appears I was asking it to do resolutions that were impossible. Made the correction in my slicer and all appears good. Takes Stefan.

@megaobi 4 года назад

absolute BEST 3d printing videos - I have learnt so much from your videos, very detailed - no excess, informative! love it keep up the quality content!!!

@YunFuriku 4 года назад

Stefan: you totally need a fan merch with slogan "German (over)engineering! "

@macmaniacal 4 года назад

It's only over engineering to those who don't know.

@ledjfou125 4 года назад

I've used resolution trying to solve Octoprint USB serial speed issues. It sometimes works, but also tends to create less resolved models on complex geometry IMO. Though I have never seen this issue on printing from the SD card so I usually move my file to the SD card if it's a high res model.

@ratgreen Год назад

Just coming back to this video to give thanks as this cured 99% of my stringing issues using PETG. I didnt even know this was a thing. I set my max res: 0.4mm, max travel res 0.4mm and max deviation to 0.05mm. Those settings might be quite agressive but I'm not too fussed with dimensional accuracy, at least its more than fine for me I've not had any issues with parts not fitting. I also stopped exporting my STL's from Fusion360 using High refinement, instead using Low. Which is still plenty. Previously I could watch the printer making lots of very small stutters, which ended up with blobs on the nozzle and then strings getting pulled over gaps etc. Now its movement is way smoother. I went from spaghetti to almost completely string free prints with just those 3 settings. Thanks so much for the well explained video!

@JOJoJoOsH 3 года назад

OMG! This really helped me to eliminate all of those ugly blobs. Thanks again!!

@christianb.3938 4 года назад

Ein Kommentar für den RU-vid-Algo! Super Content, wie immer!

@OldCurmudgeon3DP 4 года назад

Have you investigated Linear Advance, S Curve, or Junction Deviation? I'll have to see if I've ever messed w/ this setting and just don't remember.

@MrYuck-ec5do 4 года назад

Trying to activate that all with auto bed leveling and disabling the USB, speaker, and long menus is near impossible on a stock 8 bit creality board. You kinda have to pick 2 and forget 1.

@BlueClefto 3 года назад

Sometimes I can't believe the quality and the topics of this channel, it's like hearing a scientist

@jaredwasserman8148 2 года назад

I found that turning off the auto save with the ender 5 pro also helped with this issue. For anyone having the blobs occur in a pattern insert M413 S0 in your start gcode.

@jr52990 4 года назад

So, what was the setting on the Ender 3 that worked for you? Was it 0.5mm or a different one?

@brentvecchi4893 4 года назад

I used the 0.5mm setting on my Ender 3 w/ Cura and it cleared up almost all the zits on my Benchy.

@thedillestpickle 3 года назад

@@brentvecchi4893 Amazing. Going to print a benchy now to see how this works. I have been changing all sorts of setting trying to fix this and now probably need to reset everything and start over lol

@71grupa 3 года назад

@@brentvecchi4893 0.5 max res, max travel and max deviation?

@brentvecchi4893 3 года назад

@@71grupa Max Res = 0.5, Max Travel = 0.5, Max Dev = 0.025

@nn-hx8oe 3 года назад

@@brentvecchi4893 thanks i was looking for this, so the 0,7 max travel wasnt better?

@cosmicrdt 4 года назад

I've always just had it match my nozzle size.

@cragv 3 года назад

Underrated comment - this seems self evident, in hindsight. Nice one

@stauf6459 4 года назад

BRAVO! Content of this quality is so refreshing. incredible work, get show of data, actually explained it so I can try myself, which I look forward to doing soon.

@1Wolverine2 4 года назад

Great video. Older versions of Cura had Max. Resolution at 0.01, which is very overkill. After many tests I found that 0.03 would make the problem disappear. Newest versions of Cura come preset at 0.05.

@REDxFROG 4 года назад

This is only a problem of Cura and that's why I have stopped using it again. Simplify3D just works. I already know these settings and played around with them for long enough. I've played around so long with CURA and these settings, I could have just printed many good parts with S3D... you have mentioned "played around" yourself in the video :) some models work different than others. It's a mess. 😅

@MitchCrane 4 года назад

I had a similar problem on my Ender 3. I would get blobs on small perimeters or sometimes only on one side or one quarter of an object (such as a cylinder). It turned out to be the RaspberryPi I was running Octoprint on was unable to feed gcode fast enough and causing stalls that were practically imperceptible, but enough to make blobs.

@thomasalkhoury4434 4 года назад

How did you fix it?

@MitchCrane 4 года назад

@@thomasalkhoury4434 Print from the SD card or run Octoprint on a more powerful system. I currently run it on an Intel i3 system because I had one lying around, but generally one of the faster RPi machines should be sufficient. But just printing from the SD Card is a good way to determine if that's your problem.

@highwaymen1237 4 года назад

Made a huge Improvement to my prints. I've been fighting this for years. Thank you.

@davidpoland1056 4 года назад

Stefan, you rock! I get these blobs all the time, and I never knew why! I'll check this out! Vielen Dank für die Hilfe! =D

@link6032 4 года назад

Intereting video, thanks for posting, I have been looking into these 'zits' for a while and found that the biggest thing to remove them on my Ultimaker S5 was the wall overlap compensation, that feature is actually broken in the Cura source code and Ultimaker aren't planning on fixing it as the person who wrote it has left the company and the logic behind how that feature works is quite complicated and a bit messy (I have been through the source code and it's a can of worms) try turning off wall compensation also. I was seeing some stuttering of the print head as you describe even at the ultimaker defaults for the S5 for deviation. But its exactly like you show, you can see the head stutter and extra filament comes out. I would have expected the S5 to be powerful enough to cope with a small deviation. I have it set to 0.5 and still get the odd stutter. Did you manage to completely eliminate it ?. Many thanks. Really glad someone else has looked at this ! 👍🏻

@jacksoni349 4 года назад

What would you set "Slice gap closing radius" and "Resolution" in PrusaSlicer?

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

"Slice gap closing radius" ==> Don't know, never played around with it. "Resolution" ==> I think what you adjust in PS is the maximum deviation and PrusaSlicer will automatically merge small segments if under that criterion. So keep this value low! Maybe the 0.05mm like in CURA might be a starting point.

@steffengr.5556 4 года назад

I have this blob problem too! Thanx to you, I updated all my profiles (from 0.08 to 0.32) with this information. I checked old settings with new ones and can already see a difference after slicing ( little less material used and a bit faster). Will see how it works out for me after printing!

@ERJKILLER 2 года назад

What an amazing tip Stefan, this resource that can certainly not only fix simple problems in some pieces but also create amazing effects in others! Thanks for sharing!

@ishanmamadapur6307 4 года назад

Danke bruder!! You are awesome!

@morganrody67 3 года назад

This sounds very promising! Thank you. However, any idea what that setting is in Raise3d IdeaMaker? I'm using an E2. Tia

@mackelvinmalabanan9042 3 года назад

THANK YOU SO MUCH! Your Cura settings fixed the blobs around my circular models. I appreciate these videos!

@Switch620 4 года назад

I love how in depth you go! Thanks for your work.

@GForce3693 4 года назад

Simplify3D version of this setting? Or equivalent perhaps, please?

@manoliliyanovmarkov944 4 года назад

i'm here to see comments

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

I actually didn't find it in Simplify3D. If anyone knows, I'd be interested as well!

@MrSweetHart6976 4 года назад

On Simplify website about blobs and zits one of the fixes is this (below), I'll have to try it next I get blobs on a print. "Click on “Edit Process Settings” and go to the Extruders tab. Right below the retraction distance, there is a setting labeled “Extra Restart Distance.” This option determines the difference between the retraction distance when the extruder is stopping and the priming distance that is used when the extruder is restarting. If you notice a surface defect right at the beginning of the perimeter, then your extruder is likely priming too much plastic. You can reduce the priming distance by entering a negative value for the extra restart distance. For example, if your retraction distance is 1.0mm, and the extra restart distance is -0.2mm (note the negative sign), then each time your extruder stops, it will retract 1.0mm of plastic"

@jmtx. 4 года назад

Reading about "Minimum Extrusion Length" right now. Need to do some test prints to see what happens - I'm not getting these zits normally so it might be hard to test out.

@lapidations 4 года назад

Simplify 3D unfortunately stopped in time. I guess they're in the "way too drugged rockstar" phase of their success, where they have a lot of money and not a lot of motivation to keep up with the other bands, I mean slicers

@belenhedderich3330 4 года назад

Will a 32 bit board fix this? Since it may be able to keep up with it

@soloked 4 года назад

I would like to see this question answered

@ledjfou125 4 года назад

I've only had this issue due to Octoprint serial connection being to slow. I then moved to a 32 bit board. (SKR 1.3) This allowed me to then increase the buffer size in the Marlin firmware. Which in turn reduced drastically this issue. I know print at 80-100mm/mn which usually works fine except in few cases where I have to move the file to the SD card. A good 8bit board should not have issues reading such a file with 0.05 resolution though...

@jackwolfjr9517 4 года назад

@@ledjfou125 I just started having this problem when I installed a BTT TFT35 V3 lcd screen. Haven't had the issue with just my SKR mini E3 V1.2 and Pi 3B+ until now. When I switch from the touch screen to the traditional screen, the problem goes away! All I can find is the Pi can't send the gcode fast enough, which I can't see, mine works just fine except in touch screen mode. I'm now trying to find if the usb and tft connections on the mother board use the same connection.

@oSBNo 4 года назад

@@jackwolfjr9517 Dont take my word for it, but if i remember correctly, screen refresh use up a lot of cpu time. :-/

@johanohman9189 4 года назад

@@jackwolfjr9517 I had exactly the same issue and I didn't want to tweak the resolutions in Cura before I found the problem, today I tweaked the buffer sizes in Marlin and finally got everything together, now it prints without stuttering. So the fix is not resolutions in Cura, it's a buffer problem. I now ha e the latest buxfix and 25.2 for the screen, with the never Marlin I got a problem with the SD card in the TFT35 in Marlin mode, it reports inserted when I take it out and vise versa, so it doesn't work but that no problem now when I can use the touch mode.

@leoads 4 года назад

Amazing video, I always am upset with these blobs. I’m gonna try the trick. Congratulations, keep doing videos like that, I love it.

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Let us know if it helped!

@IngenieroSaborio 3 года назад

tried on an Ender 3 with SKR E3 mini board. Night and day! At 0,05 mm (standard resolution) the surface is full with small blobs. At 0,5 mm, the surface quality is vastly improved, with almost zero blobs. Thanks a lot!!!!

@qg786 4 года назад

How about for Simplify3D?

@CNCKitchen 4 года назад

Afaik S3D doesn't have that setting, but in my experience does a very good job creating well working G-Code with some internal settings.

@descent8275 4 года назад

aaaaaaaahhh thats the reason why my first printer, the geeetech i3 ended up flying through my window!

@mariahaha7814 3 года назад

🤣WTF

@brendanlondt5142 3 года назад

Excellent solution - i used your advice on my Ender 3 V2 and my Vase Mode prints have come out beautifully all the blobs are gone! Thank you!

@CNCKitchen 3 года назад

Great to hear!

@brithawkes36 4 года назад

Great information I never knew about that setting I will have to have a play. also it was great to see my vase design in your video I hope you liked it 😁👍

@vojtator 4 года назад

Solve blobbing with this weird trick!

@LameCorvette 4 года назад

Blobs HATE him!

@jonjon3829 3 года назад

why do 3d printers print in lines and not splines, there's no mechanical issues to do this.

@TheMrTape 3 года назад

The printers can, there's commands for it, but slicers are horribly basic and doesn't use such functionality, even in completely circular prints. Slicers are truly in the stone age in many aspects; for example print times could most often be cut by 50-75% by printing inner-model walls wider and taller and solid infill taller (eg. 0.8 layer height in a 0.2 layer height print). Slicers are completely static, incredibly unintelligent, for example they could calculate dynamic coasting distances depending on the path length printed since last hop instead of using constant static values, largely eliminating stringing and lack of coasting material from short paths, and they could dynamically calculate priming amounts depending on hop length, eliminating surplus or lack of filament at start of paths after a hop (hop length matters because different amounts of material strings). The sheer stupidity of the slicers have had me extremely frustrated more times than I can count; knowing it comes down to simple dynamic formulas has made it next to impossible to accept.

@jonjon3829 3 года назад

@@TheMrTape Thanks for that answer. Are all slicers like that?