Thank Bill, now both my wife and I suffer with our backs I am thinking we need a warmer climate generally :) Do you want two roomies? Hope you're well buddy!
This was an amazing repair! I've now watched a number of your videos and I am super impressed with your patience and your level of skill and, of course, the outcome of each repair. Brilliant...truly brilliant. I came onto RU-vid to see how I could use my home PDR glue puller and pull up glue hammer to remove a smooth concave dent in the right rear wheel arch of my Holden Commodore Sportwagon ("estate" for you guys in Old Blighty). I stupidly rubbed the wheel arch against a soft pine upright on my car port by accident. I am anal retentive when it comes to any damage on my car. I hate door dings and such. So once I saw the damage I was heartbroken! I will give the glue puller a go but if it doesn't work out I will hire a professional whom, I hope, has your level of skill and patience! From one "Tom" downunder to you, Tom, "up-over"...greetings! 🙂
Thank you I appreciate your comment. Many years ago I was travelling around Australia and I think I had an old Falcon Station Wagon, that had quite a few dents in but was before I was a PDR tech! I am all up for people having a go but yes if in doubt do call a professional, working on any car with out training has its own risks but go slow learn as much as possible and let us know how you go. All the best and thank you!
@@LearnPDROnline I wish I could post pictures here but perhaps I will go to your website and email the pictures of the results. I managed to get some of the concave indentation out using a glue hammer and the lever-handle glue puller. I was careful to gently warm the metal with a heat gun before trying to lift the metal. I got out about 30% of the dent. I did call in a professional who spent nearly two hours patiently using his glue hammer and various glue tabs to slowly pull the dent up. He was meticulous in lifting, then tapping to change the direction of the metal lift and then glue pulling again. He managed to get 95% of the dent out but there is still a tiny ripple on the edge of the arch where the metal turns 90 degrees under the arch itself (right on the edge). The technician explained that the Holdens have a double skin in this area which makes it virtually impossible to completely repair by pushing behind the panel. Feeling under the arch you can tell he is right. He was loath to continue pulling in case the paintwork gave up the ghost. The damage is now barely perceptible and you really need to look for it. Me being anal retentive means I can see it! 😄 My solution will be to stick a rubber wheel arch protector over all the wheel arches and then you won't be able to see a thing. I tell you...being a pedantic obsessive about the finish of one's car is a dangerous and expensive thing! Thanks for being so kind to reply. I really appreciate it. I think I am going to watch the entire series of your videos so I can learn more about the craft. I am even considering buying my own Magnetic Induction machine from Aliexpress. If I do I will go to a wrecker's yard and buy an old bonnet or door to practice on. Fun and games! 🤣
Thanks, it is something I have done for many years, I am not sure if its common practice or not amongst other techs but I expect so, as its about getting the metal moving and understanding metal flow!
Ha ha, yes it is hard work, but it is a process that can be taught! Do your research and learn as much as possible before you start on your own vehicle. If you're just starting out you will make dents worse before you learn how to make them better which is why we always start on spare panels or salvage cars! 👍🏻
Thanks Eric, I use cold glue to reduce large damage quickly so if the panel is a large soft dent its usually quicker to start pulling it out back into shape with cold glue, it allows for a softer pull so you can work quickly without causing big high spots with each pull, for me hot glue is stronger and more precise so as the damage gets smaller I switch to hot glue to give me stronger pull to lift stubborn low spots.
Hot glue comes in rods and is applied with a hot glue gun, usually used with pull tabs, cold glue will come in a package, where you'll have to warm it up by stretching it out or hit it with the heat gun, you'll be using this with a weighted slide puller.
Thanks, its hard to say the average cost as price really does vary a lot from location to location and individual techs pricing systems however in the UK I would estimate £150-£300 as a rough idea. I did this particular dent in combination with another car my customer had so I offered a price based on both repairs being carried out together.
@LearnPDROnline you were spot on Tom, I had a guy come out here in Central California and billed me $150usd he did a great job not as good as you would have did though Tom! Cheers mate
Good question, I chose the square tab for its size, the square shape allows more contact area between the tab and the panel vs the equivalent round tab in this particular 'smooth series tab' collection in otherwords i wanted to pull as much up at one time as I could, however I pulled a high spot into the low area, not ideal but it got the metal moving making the overall depth less. 👍
I did this particular dent in combination with another car my customer had so I offered a slightly discounted price based on both repairs being carried out together however from memory I think it was around the £200 mark
Roof rails and a-c pillars are 🤢 to work on! So difficult to cross check. And glue only repairs i hate too 😂... what would take 10 mins to finish with a bar takes 5 times longer with glue lol
Yep, rails are definitely tough if the damage is bad like this one and do usually take longer however, when you get a small shallow dent on a rail its often really quick to glue pull once you have some glue pulling skills, it took me a while to get into glue pulling at first but its a great skill to have and on certain damage types is the quickest way to the end result!
This repair was around the £200 mark from memory, however I was carrying out more than one repair for this customer so had offered a combined discount for both of his vehicles.
Hi Stu, it difficult to offer any advice as I am unsure of your current level, have you had any training yet or are you already out there fixing dents? Also depends on the car, the location of the damage and the tools available to you?
Hi Tom thanks for the reply I have done easy dents on my other cars with good results however this car a Mini R60 is difficult as the door has a strength bar right where the dents are, I have a selection of tools from eBay nothing professional and wouldn't mind learning a little more to may be done this as a paying hobby as I'm retired in Turkey
@@stucroft2340 No problem, yes a lot of Mini doors can be tricky with upper sections being double skinned in places and those side impact bars! Its a great hobby and if you get the feel for it and then the passion it can be a truly great career! If ever you'd like to chat more about our online training we offer you can reach me at tom@learnpdronline.com
Ha ha, keyboard warriors like you that hide behind no name profiles to share your pointless negative views whilst complaining about a free video that you chose to watch We get it, you've got nothing to contribute yourself but would like some attention, well done you here you go 👏
