I just wanted to offer my thanks to you and your videos! I watch some videos of other people doing PDR work including yourself, ordered some tools, and spent 15 minutes on the $2400 dent in my wife's car. Within the first 15 minutes I was able to remove the 90% of the damage! I could not of done it without your videos. I ran a bodyshop back in the 70s we did a lot of swapping out of fenders, doors, bondo work and painting. I don't think anybody ever heard of PDR back then. PDR is a much more of an efficient and cost savings way of repairing damage on cars! Thanks again for the education; who says an old dog can't learn new tricks!
Thank you, I am glad to inspire you! please also remember I have been doing this for many years now and whilst I do not want to deter you from trying a new skill, if you have no prior experience I do recommend starting with some PDR Training before moving on to repairing cars. 👍
Thank you, yes its one of the reasons I got into PDR I used to be a bodyshop repair tech but if PDR is a viable option it is hands down the best one available
Hi Tom. I've worked on a few repairs using my own vehicles and I can tell you, I have much more appreciation for the skill it takes to be really good. (Especially that last 10%) My repairs are terrible in comparison but I continue to enjoy the learning process. Thank you.
I had a similar dent removed, i was told it was a double panel above the wheel arch and had to be done from the outside. One PDR company could not do it, a body shop wanted a €1000 to fill and spray, another good PDR guy did it for €200 excellent job. Thanks for your info
There are lots of PDr Techs and body repair techs all with a variety of skills, its always worth getting a few quotes, glad you got it fixed with PDR, thank you.
What a wonderful tutorial. Think I’d like to take the class in dent repair. For some reason, I find it fascinating. Thanks again. You’re quite talented. Cheers!
Thank you! yes PDR can be addictive, we offer a couple of classes in dent removal, a 'foundation course' and also a complete '7 step program' from beginner to paid tech, both options are available at www.learnpdronline.com thanks for watching :)
So impressive. Also great video. The end result is stunning. I'm working on my first crease dent as a hobby. Might need some sea sickness pills since i made it quite messy :/. But your videos got me inspired to get back in there and try to get the job finished. Thank you
As a body repair guy in a busy body shop I’d really love to learn PDR and use it in work and in after hours repairs. Quick turn around jobs etc . Great video loved watching 👍👏
Thank you I'm glad you enjoyed it, PDR is great on its own and can be a very useful skill in a bodyshop reducing repair times and fillers etc, when you're ready to start learning head on over to www.learnpdronline.com and send me a message, id be happy to help you get started 👍
Very good how you got the Dent out. Got to get my out back of bottom side panel.after somebody revised into my car. After in a car park for 25 mins. They had driven off quickly. Unfortunately all the car park Camra's were off.
I have been doing paint and bodywork. Years ago before pdr when everyone else was drilling holes and using their slide hammer I had a stud welded that welded copper studs to the bare metal and use a slide hammer to work the dents. Thanks for sharing your pdr knowledge. I have been trying my hand at it and have gotten decent results. Definitely better than what it was but not to the level as yours. The only way I can get it that slick is with glazing putty and a lot of sanding.
Thank you, yes I remember working in the bodyshop nearly 20 years ago myself with a stud welder and slide hammer, PDR has certainly come on a lot especially in the last 5 years or so its amazing what can now be achieved. Practice makes perfect and of course some decent training helps to show you exactly what to do and what to be looking for!
I am glad to inspire you, just go slow, follow the process and understand the risks working on your own vehicles, we usually start training on practise panels or salvage vehicles as it is very easy to make dents worse in the beginning, however give it a go and see how you get on, learn as much as possible before you start practising! 👍
Tom, I have 2 names for you, take your pick. "Lord of the Rod" OR "King of the Ding" Tom, I am Auto Painter in San Jose, CA and painting for 42 years now. Your PDR skills are outstanding, but above all I like the way you explain the process you are going to be undertaking in pulling the Dent. Thanks for sharing your precious skills. Cheers mate.......
Thanks Raymond, both good names, just check what's around already and what names are registered. I'm glad you enjoy my videos and the learning process itself!
Masterfully done. I have a small question. I noticed the paint around the access hole under the tail light was slightly chipped by using the long bar to lift the dent. Is it worth putting some clear on that with a touch up brush to prevent rust?
Thank you. yes indeed if ever there is paint damage either from tooling or from the impact itself always apply some form of corrosion protection, myself I carry a range of touch up paints but also clear lacquer and corrosion wax. great question and suggestion!
Thanks Bill, yes we can usually reuse the Glue tabs many times, after a while they can stretch and or break but we get plenty of pulls from each one before that happens 👍
Very interesting indeed. Just wondering 1. Is there a specific hot glue stick for this purpose , or, will any hot glue stick do? 2. How do you remove the glue left on the paint surface? IPA?
Thank you, yes I always recommend using PDR glue, house hold or craft glue can often look the same but it does not respond the same and can be tricky to remove. I use - bletools.com/collections/glue/products/10-x-high-strength-clear-glue-sticks and yes IPA to clean the panel, the tabs and remove the glue.👍
Being a bit thick here as I've aways used Hammers and dollies on dents! It's absolutely fantastic watching your video and I'm well impressed with the results,I just have one question? When you're tapping back with a hammer,is it a plastic or rubber tipped type of chisel you use? I've never used your technique before but have 2 vehicles I'm about to get started on,one with plenty I'm used to (inner sil welding 4 new arches and a few patch welds) and another with some small dinks I'm gonna try glue pulling on and a nasty crease over the front arch that has a couple of body lines running through it.any help would be useful? 😉👍🏻
Its not being thick if you do not currently do PDR, its a good question, Just as there are different shape tips for pushing the dent, there are different 'knock downs' for tapping it back down too, usually they are nylon or hardened plastic although there are a few metal ones which are used for specific damage. Here's is a link to some of the ones I use - bletools.com/collections/knock-downs as you'll see on their site there are a few options. In terms of advice it would be to start with something like the foundation course we offer www.learnpdronline.com/the-foundation-course-buy-one-get-one/ but if that is not for you then I do cover a lot of tips and techniques here on my channel, take your time to learn about knocking down highs and using glue pull for PDR Good luck!
Thank you, yes PDR is awesome just make sure you get some training and practise before trying it on customers cars, then you will not have to do it for free lol
You know you're top drawer and so does everyone else after this, takes years of practice and you have to have that something extra to be this good, which you clearly do, can I just ask, as a DIY'er my skills are good enough for what I need, but with UK weather is there a particular glue stick you recommend for a basic glue gun ? Thanks Tom, much obliged.
Thanks Mark, I use this glue as my go to and its available from a UK supplier - BLE Tools - bletools.com/collections/glue/products/10-x-high-strength-clear-glue-sticks
Hey Tom, I've enjoyed your video. I have a 2006 chevy truck. It was an oilfield truck, and it has some big dents. and I can't afford to pay someone to straighten. Howvideo
Thanks Mike, yes we have a few RU-vid shorts on this channel and some reels on Instagram and Facebook too but I will add in a few timelapse videos of sped up repairs! 👍
PDR can be addictive, with the right training you can learn how to remove dents to a high quality too. Have a look at our online training here - www.learnpdronline.com 👍🏻
I use glue specifically designed for PDR, if by normal glue you mean household hobby glue then no it is different PDR glue is designed to peel off easily where as the craft glue becomes brittle and hard to remove from the paintwork, I get mine from BLE tools here in the UK 👍
Lovely video. So much detail. Thanks for sharing. I know this can be personal but it’s also great bit of information for us new techs. How much did you charge for this? You can send me pm if you didn’t want to answer openly. Once again thanks for the videos.
What would you have done with no access points on those fine lines? My Tesla 3 doesn’t have such access points so could you have done that fine line via glue pull?
It is still possible to achieve this finish with glue only, however it would have taken me a lot longer to do, The fine creases in the dent can be opened up and repulled a number of times to get the centres up, but the actual bodylines are very tricky to get 100% with glue only and often involve a lot more tap down work to shift all the tension back into the line itself.
Thank you, I uses a couple this is my go to when I'm working outdoors - pdrprotools.co.uk/linereflector-board-tight-lines-white-p-373.html but if working indoors I find the light helps - elimadenttools.com/products/14-6-strip-adjustable-fade-mini-light-dewalt-ver-3
Thank you, this is my 'go to' glue - bletools.com/collections/glue/products/10-x-high-strength-clear-glue-sticks and I usually wait around 10-15 seconds to pull most damage, small light dents maybe less, heavy dents perhaps a little longer as there is more glue on a larger tab, the climate and panel temperature also make a difference though
Yes it is glue designed specifically for PDR, I always recommend buying glue from a PDR supplier as a lot of online retailers like ebay and amazon use cheap craft household glue which is different and can be difficult to remove, my latest video offers a quick insight to glue pulling problems - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uuPTyUYb95M.htmlsi=RXiTkeY3ExTxyM-h and then the glue I use is from BLE Tools in the UK - bletools.com/collections/glue/products/10-x-high-strength-clear-glue-sticks
This one took a few hours to do in real time but here's a smaller glue pull repair I did that is in real time - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z24lx4WGO2o.htmlsi=xhm47uEGgdy6D-Z0 👍
Thank you. If a dent is repaired correctly with PDR it will never come back on its own. Occasionally you get videos from 'non techs' on youtube where it looks as though dents are simply popped out, but if the tension areas around that damage are not treated then applying pressure back to the area may well push it back in, but when carried out correctly the dents do not come back.
Thanks! I guess about 20 years ago, the person who used these methods for dent repair on one of my cars didn't know what he was doing as his repair popped back out. You truly are the master!
Yes generally speaking, when there is tension aka a crown we release the tension to help the metal flow easier allowing us to lift the lows more efficiently 👍
Often when a dent will not fully pull out with glue it can mean there is tension in the form of a crown that needs to be released fully first or if the outside of the dent lifts with the centre the dent needs to be 'opened up' to allow more movement. i can make it look easy only because I have been doing it for well over a decade, keep learning, keep pushing!
The best glue depends on the environment you are working in, there are glues designed for cold conditions and others designed for warm climates, there are also glues designed for heavy pulling such as collision damage versus a light pull for soft dents, so it really depends on the damage you are trying to fix and the climate you are in. Me personally, I like the high strength clear from BLE Tools - bletools.com/collections/glue/products/100-x-high-strength-clear-glue-sticks
I use lots of tools from a variety of suppliers but here are the tool companies I get my tools from - www.bletools.com - www.blackplaguepdr.com - www.kecotabs.co.uk
It depends on the dent but yes quite often heat is good, I usually use heat when glue pulling as it helps the hot glue to adhere to the panel, and I will use heat if working on cold panels to prevent the paint cracking I nearly always use heat for deep dents too!
I use the Shane Jacks one here's a link to one of the places its sold - www.blackplaguepdr.com/collections/shane-jacks/products/the-jack-hammer-blending-hammer-by-shane-jacks
It really depends on the temperature and the type of damage you are trying to remove, large dents often require more glue so have a longer curing time compared to small dents and there are also multiple types of glue specifically for different climates so it also depends on the brand you are using, for the glue I use its usually between 10-20 seconds as a rough guide.
Hi, for this repair I am using 'clear high strength' from BLE Tools in the UK - bletools.com/collections/glue/products/100-x-high-strength-clear-glue-sticks 👍
Hey Paul, my advice is to have a look at the range Keco stock and if you look at the individual products they usually state the best glue for each climate - kecotabs.co.uk/collections/glue-sticks
Yes the panels are generally thinner on modern cars, so they get dented easier however, the PDR process can be worked on any vehicle with steel or aluminium panels, I used to work with a classic car dealer and the metal was often thicker on the old ones so took more pushing/pulling but very similar 👍
PDR stands for 'Paintless Dent Removal' so any dent damage that is fully repaired without the need for traditional bodyshop repairs, fillers and paintwork would be considered PDR
What would job such as this cost to do? My dent is on the left of the rear bumper but just to the left of the gas cap. Its on the left of the rear left bumper and just above tbe wheel well. I can send pics if necessary.. By the way you do great work👌👍👌
Hi Harry, each dent is estimated on its own merit so it depends on the size of the damage, the location, what access there is to the panel and also what items may need to be removed for the repair itself so it really depends on the individual damage and who is going to be repairing it. I would suggest looking for your local PDR technicians first and getting some quotes from there :)
Yes indeed and it can take time that's exactly why I created a dedicated training program to teach PDRwith an easy to follow step by step process at www.learnpdronline.com
