How I got hard carbon out of my bore. 

You are correct on the Kroil and JB Bore scrubber, I have used them for years. One addition to your cleaning routine would be to use the bore scrubber pellets with threaded jag. Here is a video from Brownells - Using JB Bore Paste and Kroil with the VFG Bore Pellets. It will give you the result you desire! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JaPzrAfemIE.html

Well I had fun reading through most of the comments made over these last months. A lot of concern over shortening barrel life by "over cleaning" or whatever via using Kroil and JB. There also seems to be disagreement about removing carbon, fouling, copper down to bare metal or not. My father always said to keep your cars and guns clean - a simple truth from a self made man who was USMC through the worst two years of Korea and an incredible hunter and marksman. I have always followed that advice. I clean my firearms after every range session and my cars always look showroom new. I am now 70 years old and have used JB and Kroil on all of my firearms including expensive cut and hand lapped barrels, and some irreplaceable legacy rifles. Not every time. Have you ever used compound on a car's finish? Most of us have. What does it do? It removes the environmental contaminants, dirt, and even microscopic scratches in the clear coat paint. JB has a finer grit than most automotive compounds. Secondly, it is applied with Kroil which is a penetrating oil that allows the paste to slide more smoothly. Thirdly, Brownell's recommends using the wool felt polishing pads on a jag. These are no different than the polishing pads used with the DA random orbit polisher on your car. I use a lot of different products - Wipe Out, the Bore Tech carbon and copper removers, M- Pro 7, and on and on. My standard practice is to run a few patches wrapped on a nylon brush of carbon cleaner through the bore than copper cleaner, then alcohol, then a light coat of oil, then a dry patch. JB and Kroil hands down works the best - after every hundred rounds or so. I don't shoot competitively, but if my rifle is not accurate I don't want it. If I am going to put money into a rifle and ammo (which BTW is getting more expensive and harder to find) then I want the best accuracy I can get out of it. If it is not accurate then it sure as hell is not because it is "too clean." I guess bottom line some folks are okay with driving around in a car or truck or shooting rifles that never get cleaned. Not the image I want others to see. Sure, different strokes for different folks.

Have been using Kroil for many years, both as a bore cleaner and penetrating oil. There is no better out there. Years as a 1000 yd. competitor and most shooters used Kroil in their cleaning routine.

To start, I am a metallurgical engineer, very familiar with looking at metals through a microscope. When I look at the bore scope images of your "squeaky" clean barrels after Kroil and JB, I see lots of small pits, microscopic tears, and scratches from the barrel machining. Every machined barrel will have those. So your bore may look clean, but it is not smooth. That layer of carbon or copper is needed to make the barrel smooth. It fills the pits and tears and scratches, and that is why it is so difficult to remove without using abrasives. Precision rifle shooters shoot "fouling" shots to fill these surface defects in the bore and make the barrel smooth before the important shots. Your Kroil and JB are cleaning away what needs to be there. The JB works because it is an abrasive. You are actually making you bore slightly larger every time you use it. The Kroil is just a lubricant for the abrasive. There is no gun cleaning magic in the Kroil. Go back to your Hoppes 9. That is all you need. As RU-vidr GunBlue490 says: Forget that you are cleaning a gun. You are just removing excess carbon from a piece of steel and you want to leave a smooth surface. If the micropits and scratches in the surface are full of carbon, so be it, The surface is microscopically smooth. That is what you want.

I use a bronze brush every time I clean. I've never noticed any negative effects from it. I did briefly try without it but pretty quickly went back to the bronze brushes. I've also used jb with good results. I rarely try to get a barrel spotless though. Just don't let it build up and don't let anything rust.

People crack me up, we go out and use and explosive charge to swage chunk of copper and lead through the bore at hi speed, then argue if a bronz brush is going to harm that bore.

Point taken as a medium I think it would work great. I still use it as a general purpose lube and it works all right. I would never use my own money to buy it. Way over hyped.

I have held for a long time that cleaning is over done. The barrel is dirtied up with the first few "fouling shots" so what we really have in a firearm barrel is a certain state of equilibrium...it won't be a clean barrel but a barrel with some degree of deposits. I really do not believe that a layer of copper and carbon is a detriment as each successive shot pushes out some of the last deposit so you will reach an equilibrium. That layer is beneficial, as others have commented in protecting the very rough and porous bare steel of the bore. There are so many variables that affect accuracy and accurate shooting I submit that obsessing on clean barrels is a mistake and a waste of time. The benchrest shooters can and do go down that rabbit hole and perhaps with good results. But for the average shooter it is a mistake to chase things like squeaky clean barrels in the name of improved accuracy. There are soooo many shortcomings in off the rack guns and shooter capability that ought to be worked in instead of worrying about an ultra clean barrel. In short most shooters cannot achieve meaningful accuracy improvement through focus on barrel cleaning. I have bolt actions that have had hundreds of rounds down the pipe with zero cleaning....ZERO...and they shoot very, very well.

The million dollar question is this: Have you recorded a measurable change in accuracy since you have adopted the methods you describe? I learned some years ago that my OCD with cleaning had no impact on my accuracy, but I grant that every barrel is different.

I absolutely believe in Kroil. We use it at the oil refinery on some of the most rotten bolts possible. It chews that corrosion up, those flange studs would not come out without it. I mix it with Shooters Choice on a patch. I believe it is safer than that 7.62 copper remover, that heavy ammonia solvent. I was stoked to see this video I shared it on my Facebook news feed, I have been singing its praises for years. Now I have your video proof.

I second not buying a borescope. It has ruimed my life. Ignorance is bliss.

Once again man, the production quality is top notch. You’ll be at a million subscribers in no time.

Thanks for the video. I would say that yes, get a borescope but do it with the idea of putting whatever one sees in proper perspective. Many will see manufacturing flaws and want a new barrel, but it may very well shoot just fine. Another area of concern is that many will want to clean their guns down to bare steel every time and this is also unnecessary. Each barrel will foul differently and accuracy will degrade differently with each barrel. Take a look through the bore with the scope at that point and make a note of how many rounds of ammo was fired. You will get to where you don't use the scope but a few times a year on any given barrel. The nice thing about scoping the bore is that you know what state it is in despite it looking all bright and shiny by just looking down it with a light. Your video is the first I have seen that brings up the subject of the negative consequences of borescopes. Thanks again for the video.

Kroil has got me out of some tough spots but I would never thought to put down the 280 Ackley bore. Learn something new every day..................

I have a borescope and use it to track the carbon ring, but honestly the FEEL of the cleaning rod is the best indicator of cleanliness IMO. If you have stubborn copper near the muzzle (and it seems it’s always near the muzzle) and stubborn carbon near the chamber (and it seems it’s always near the chamber), then I think it’s there because that’s the “equilibrium” the barrel needs to be consistent. I will say though that the Tubb Final Finish bullets are a great way to improve the surface finish of the bore. You can feel the difference in the cleaning rod- it’s drastic.

I usually use Kroil, JB Bore Bright, a nylon brush wrapped with a cleaning patch on new barrels. I just feel more comfortable knowing that any debris left over from manufacturing is not present first trip to the range. It has always been my practice when hunting, to fire a " foul shot " before going into the field. After all, my barrel was fouled when I made my final scope adjustment. I had a dead tree behind the cabin, walk out the door and pow! Besides it was a good way of disposing of old ammo I would not consider to use hunting.

KROIL oils the best fir guns especially It penitrates the metal preventing corrosion and fills the pores to protect fromthe elements. It works great to loosen (especially on gun) bolts and screws. Second best is blaster that comes in a can. These oils are not TOXIC . Using HOPPES,and BARISTOL are TOXIC

My favorites are Patch out with accelerator then iosso on a nylon brush, now I am trying the Thorro Clean Bore Cleaning System from iosso and a partner company. Seems to work really well but always the star of the show is the iosso paste on a nylon brush. I have never tried the JB bore paste, I do not use a bronze brush to often now, almost never.

Great job. As you saw with your bore scope, factory barrels are pretty rough. They foul quickly. If you want to reduce how often you need to use JB, consider using David Tubb’s Final Finish bullet kit. It will lap many of those tooling marks out of your barrel. BUT, I would go shoot your rifle with that squeaky clean barrel and see if it improved your precision. If not, no need to clean that much. Nice content.

Thanks for the quick chat. Take care! = )

This is the best video I watched on what actually happens to your barrel when cleaning with Hoppes. I also bought a bore scope and unfortunately my life changed forever. Great video however most shooters will never believe you. I watched a video on Gun cleaning from Brownells of all places, these are two gunsmiths, and they are laughing and chuckling about how they never clean their guns. Their gun cabinets are full of dirty guns and this is completely acceptable. I could not believe what I was watching. The average shooter believes the dirty gun shoots better. Now you know how the government gets over with their disinformation, people believe them.

Thanks, it is something I would like to test on a vintage barrel and see the difference - the regular cleaning vs the kroil cleaning. Cheers, and thanks again .

And how does it shoot now compared to before? I'll wager it's worse. You only need to remove the chunky carbon. Being an army guy we're trained to clean our guns to within an inch of their life (clr is NOT a good cleaner), I am convinced that overcleaning is worse for your rifle than undercleaning. Take that as you may.

OK, I need clarification.....did you use the kroil with JB bore paste on a jag? And then brush? Or brush first? What did you use to apply the JB and kroil? Was it a jag?

MOST shooters (term used loosely) are hunters. Thousands of rounds fired annually from one specific firearm are not obtained and the ranges that game is taken are below 250 yards. That being established, a gun that provides at 1.25" moa is totally acceptable for "standard" hunting scenarios. Copper fouling actually smooths a bore by filling the imperfections within the bore's surface. Once void filling and surface burnishing occurs frictional equilibrium is achieved between the bullet/bore and copper deposition ceases building (e.g. copper on copper). Carbon build-up prevention is far more critical to accuracy longevity than copper "fouling" and EASY OFF oven cleaner takes care of it faster/better than any commercial firearm product I've dumped money into. I mean it's MADE to remove baked on carbon. In a nutshell (for the obsessed)...., new unfired barrel - hand/fire lap, otherwise shoot it (avoid above warm heating barrel), prevent carbon build-up (throat carbon ring included) and have fun.

Thanks!

Wipe Out isn’t really meant to work on hard carbon, I mean, I’m sure the bottle says you can use it for that, but Wipe Out is for your copper fouling. That’s the real purpose, and it works amazing for it.

Have you tried/tested KG-12 Copper remover and their Carbon remover?? There are videos on youtube where you can watch copper melt from a barrel with KG-12.

Industrial Mechanic here. We are forced to use Kroil in the facility we maintain because that is what the company supplies. Not one time in 15 years I have put this on a rusted bolt and been like wow it just come right off even after leaving it soak. Quite the opposite. The can says it will creep in a space a million of a inch. Lol Total Bullshit. I have put this onto of rusted studs and nuts overnight guess what it did not creep into the threads at all.

Best thing I ever bought was a bore scope, it's impossible to truly clean a barrel without one. I thought most of my rifles were clean, they are now. I only use nylon brushes especially with copper cleaning agents. I want my barrels spot less, I don't believe that carbon and copper fouling fill in the imperfections to make better accuracy. If you clean down to steel you are starting from a predictable point of accuracy. Everyone has their own beliefs and habits but get yourself a bore scope, you'll be amazed. As a side note, just bought a Browning X bolt in .270win guess what a new barrel looks like? It's filthy and has a little copper fouling from test firing in the factory and it took a while to get it clean. Take care and keep em clean.

Had a Mosin m44 with a good bore but black as night so I shot 30 rounds as fast I could then plugged the muzzle with a couple of patches then stuck the bayonet into the dirt , removed the bolt and filled up the total bore after the fire went out . Then I scrubbed with a bronze brush 20 times and then patched it clean and another 10 strokes and a patch to clean the bore . Fricking bright and shinny as new , im still amazed on how clean it got . Top notch stuff for just about anything

My biggest concern is the carbon ring building up in the throat. This seems like a good method to bust those out. Thanks

I never use any solvent with ammonia in it. It will etch the bore. For a heavy carbon fouling chambering such as my wildcat 22-240Wby with an 8 twist, I use brake cleaner on a mop and a bronze brush, followed by Bore Shine. Then oil the chamber and barrel well and patch out prior to shooting.

Dont always think carbon in a barrel is bad, let you groups decide. I shoot consistant 1/4 moa rifles with left over carbon in the barrels. Trust me or trust your groups. I strvive like everyone else to get carbon completely out, but more and more Im thinking nobody else can outshoot my groups so why scramble my brain trying to figure out how to get that last little bit of carbon out of the barrel. Getting to think its a waste of energy and time. And yes, I do cleam my rifles for 3-4 days after work. Mostly with wipe out products and bore tech eliminator

Hoppe’s is about the worst product overall, I use sweets, and g96 a little carbon isn’t bad so long as it’s not a ring in your throat causing pressure

Kroil is the best shit you can get, but not many know about it, it seems. You’ll throw away all your other penetrating oil wannabes once you try it.

If you love the results of the JB paste, try it with the felt pellets, rather than a patch. Better fit in the bore and applies the JB evenly and consistently.

What procedure did you use with Kroll and JB? TY

With abrasives like JB or Iosso pastes, you can also use a hard nylon brush like Iosso's blue ones. Since abrasives will wear the steel a bit, we remove the hard carbon with a bronze brush+solvent and copper every 10 rounds, and to remove the hard carbon layer left we prefer wait more shots (50 to 100). These hard carbon deposits on the 8 first inches are bad for accuracy but let your rifle tell you when complete cleaning is needed instead of your borescope. Beware of the first bullet after such cleaning, often a flyer😉

Ive been trying to get the hard carbon out of my Tikka Tac A1 aswell and have tried most products except kroil and Jb paste . Is there ever a chance you ll make a video showing your method of cleaning ? Thanks for the advice either way , the bore scope changed my life , i have depression and anxiety now haha jks jks

Glad to have stumbled on to your channel and will be back. I'd be interested in before and after deep cleaning grouping tests as I'm not convinced a rifle needs a shiny bare steel bore to drive tacks.

A barrel on one of my rifles looks like it has a lot of rust and has eroded. Will these 2 help? I cant even tell there was in there! 😄

Do not run a bronze brush with JB at all. I don’t know if you shoot PRS or what but you’re actually polishing out the rifling. A lot of guys are going to CLR, 10 minute soak, flush out with 99% alcohol and go to town with a nylon brush.

I would never ever use red label JB. You can ruin a barrel if you use it with a brush. Bartlien and a few other barrel makers have seen this happened. Believe the target podcast has talked about it.

Hi Audran its a topic that i can't wrap my head around i guess we should both do are own testing if you want to see his video GunBlue490 uploaded 20 march

Bronze brush and turtle wax chrome polish.

After 40 + years of competitive shooting I might be able to help . First I was wearing at least one barrel out a year both in XTC and LR so I had a lot of new barrels to work with . This notion of breaking in barrels is a wast of time , don't bother . I've gone to matches with one round out of the barrel and won matches when the first shots were taken from standing ..yep zeroing while standing at 200 yards . Ok , first FIND a powder that does not foul , believe me there are some powders that will not shoot the first shot accurately , and there are others that will shoot the first shot after clean right in the middle . And the biggest bane is finding out that the powder your using isn't the same lot to lot and so much so that it can come darn close to blowing the rifle up ! Another problem was I used R22 that was US made then went to buy the next can and it was make in Sweden and was nothing like the old powder . I've also has some really crap powder sold by a company in Tennessee that was great until I got one lot that ruined 5 barrels and kept me off the 1989 Palma team to Australia because it had contamination that made DEEP grooves in the steel and the resulting velocity made vertical strings at 1000 yards . Finding a powder is your #1 PROBLEM ! The ONLY powder I found that was consistent lot to lot and tear to year is made in Finland so you can figure that out . That powder was so GREAT that after 66 rds in XTC and not cleaning it I shot a 200-20X Iron sight string @ 500 yds at Camp Atterbury years ago . NOW cleaning the barrels . First I never had copper fouling and I never used JB or other abrasives , I don't recommend them . While on the 1995 US Palma team to NZ we had been using 2208 which later was relabeled Varget . I shot 435 rds with out cleaning just to see when it would foul out and it didn't while shooting the supplied powder in the US . Then we got to NZ and they had loaded ammo with 2 different lots , one being the good stuff like we had in the US and the other that had a different color and fouled very quickly . With the powder that fouled it did so about a 1/2 in down the throat and GLAZED and no solvent would touch it ! So i reverted to JB and I learned that glazed powder and JB ends up polishing the steel all around the glazed area , polishing steel away while leaving the glazed fouling there ! As a result a ruined barrel ! I put up with this crap powder from Australia for years and it got down to cleaning every 12 shots and even at that I was keeping about 80% of the sighters in Fullbore . Eventually everyone else noticed the problem and then the energy of the powder dropped and the charge had to be moved from 45.5 to over 47 grs of that same powder to get the same velocity with a compressed load that then didn't shoot well ! That Australian powder company knew they had problems and kept making crap the they shut down and supposedly revamped the process , all the while the customers were getting their garbage ! And the other part not all of their powders were bad ! How we dealt with the fouling issue . Bronze brush and old Hoppies #9 and I later made my own Edd's Red , acetone , mineral spirits and automatic transmission fluid . Here is my point some of the solvents you tried are more like detergents and leave the barrel too dry and the steel too bare so that when you fire the first shot your leaving copper in the barrel especially after lapping the barrel with JB , that is a NO NO !! Look what is in Edd's Red , Acetone to break down fouling , the mineral spirits is also a cleaner and leave a fine film as does the automatic transmission fluid which is a light wt hydraulic oil . This cleans and leaves a FILM of lubricant in the barrel that prevents that first round copper fouling ! This formula was developed by Ed Harris at Lake City in the 40-50's and it proved its value in extending the life of proof barrel used in testing ammo lots . What your failing to pick up on is a clean barrel does NOT necessarily equate to an ACCURATE BARREL CONDITION . Kroil is a penetrate lubricant , use to be made from coal and 'can not' be used in engine crank cases as the Germans found out in WW2 ! You can burn it but you can't lubricate with it , aka a fuel but not an oil . As your barrel gets older , I noted yours was nearly new , you will get cracking in the throat . Then when you clean the barrel after a match and then look at the barrel the next week the throat looks fuzzy from the fouling coming out of the cracks from the cleaning of a week before . Solution clean just before the match ! Good Luck , M Maxberry

Ok thanks

Been there. Tried Bore Tech Eliminator in the 6.5CM LRI barrel of my RPR at the range right after a session, barrel was still hot/warm. Had minimal effect. Free All and JB works well. Iosso is great too. Best combo I have seen so far is ThoroClean (Clean and Flush) using a brass brush. Try it, you will thank me.

Ok. I bought a borescope 😭😭😭 Then I bought some Kroil and JB Bore Cleaner. Been RE-CLEANING all my pew pews for 5 days straight. KROIL & JB BORE CLEANER WORKS!!!!!

Dont over think or over clean your guns.

The JB products cleaner compound & polish brought my 40yo 30-06 barrel back to bright & clean

😊.

Amazing - I use these same products. I use the Bore Tech product after every shoot, then frequently use the Wipe Out and Accelerator. But nothing works like the oil and JB paste. I need to get a scope though. Excellent video. Thanks.

Very informative and time saving video thank you for sharing 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Kroil and JB bore cleaners what is what I used for years it was recommended to me by a champion benchrest shooter.

Wait, do you apply the Kroil to the brush with the JB paste at the same time?

Erik Cortina uses CLR.

You are actually polishing away your barrel doing this. Safe to say a vast majority of gun/barrel makers, reloaders and competition shooters would say the methods you are using are extremely detrimental to barrel life and accuracy

Thank you very much its one week i try to remove hard carbon with sharp shoot r product and didn't work. Ill try this., i live on south shore of montreal too if you want a spotter for long range shooting

All barrels are not created equal. There is a huge difference between a "stock" barrel and one that has been precision lapped., and cleaning,or lack thereof should be performed accordingly as per specific requirements. But I'm just an old man so what do I know?

Depending on barrel condition, especially milsurps, I'll use sweets to knock out the junk and neutralize any remaining acids that may be present. I might repeat the process depending on how much copper deposits/layers get a real good look at the barrel condition. Haven't tried kroil and usually use a patch dipped in mineral spirits and that does the trick for me to knock out carbon and lead deposits. Can't go wrong with CLP as an general purpose do all imo.

Hoppe not the greatest, love kroil, jb and boretech

Why do you need to do that? Trying to sell a used rifle as new? Probably. This is not required when you clean a bore. It's just not. Show me a benefit. Show me that rifle shoots better with no fouling to slick it up. Bet you can't. Bet you actually degraded your expected accuracy as well, and it took you maybe a dozen shots to get it back.

You used hoppes black mineral oil to clean out fouling? Did you think to use a solvent? And you buy from a guy that keeps his Kroll supply on a snap-on tool box... lol

Fascinating stuff! I've always been interested in the million and one details people have discovered about gun cleaning over the ages. Thanks to bore-scopes more info on what actually works, is available like never before. People have written entire books just on the effects of corrosive ammo, which no doubt has destroyed more guns than every bullet ever manufactured... can you do a video about this OP?

There is an easy free method to do this! Was shown it by an ex nz army armorer using boiling water. Works incredibly well to remove carbon. Takes a lot of patches though because they come out black for a long time!! I do a normal solvent clean then, using a funnel in the chamber with the rifle standing muzzle down in a coffee mug out of the stock, just slowly pour in a couple of jugs of boiling water. The cup you stand the rifle in ensures the barrel is full of boiling, not just trickling through. It works very well, does no damage and converts any light rust that may be in the barrel. I use this method only if I see rust forming in the bore wich is bad if you leave it there. Not for typical cleaning after a trip to the range. I live in high-ish humidity area so keeping rust out of the bore is needed

I agree with you regarding bore scopes. Since I got mine I've been much more obsessed with cleaning. I just recently tried Kroil and JB for the first time on my Bergara .22lr. I had tried Bore Tech C4 and Eliminator and neither did much but remove the loose stuff using a nylon brush. Like you the patches were coming out spotless. I used Tipton felt cleaning pellets with the JB, not a brush. The pellets are too short and don't hold much JB. Not sure if I should use even use a nylon brush with the JB. Did you use a bronze brush with the JB or just the Kroil?

Your gonna "clean" your rifling away before you know it your gona have a smooth bore

Absolutely a bronze brush will harm your barrel. Take the bronze brush and rub it on the outside of your stainless barrel. What happens? It turns dull because you put micro scratches in it that only polish out with an abrasive compound. They also will gouge your throat. Only iosso or bore tech synthetic brushes plus they last months unlike bronze

Kroil is a gunsmiths good friend. Good stuff.👍 It helps with tough carbon deposits, & can be used for a ton of other stuff, as well.

Lol, just got a bore scope, I know exactly what you mean.

They say bronze brushes are good as long as you don't use abrasives. If you use abrasives nylon brush.

I have recently tried Thurro Clean, it is a very good product for removing hard carbon. Most do not realize that that carbon will get so hard you will not get it out. Many barrels are thought to be shot out when they are just fouled BADLY! Gunsmiths may have to spend many, many hours cleaning, and they just do not have the time for this. Many bore cleaning products are out there that make the cleaning job sound easy, and this appeals to the guys that are into the "Good Enough" category. Many products are nothing more than snake oil, especially if they appeal to the no-stinking bore cleaner crowd.

Thank you for this video. Good bless

I also tried alot of things to remove carbon and coper build in my barrel (cz527) but there was no luck untill I got to Riflecx bore foam and their other cleaning products. This is geting the job done. Also works extremaly well with my maverick and Canik rival. There is another brand as good called Super Nano i think. I recommend both as these are quite cheap at the same time. Feel free to try! 😀

3:38 This is the best part that makes me comfortable! Thanks man

Now let’s discuss barrel tuners 🤦🏼‍♂️

I just got a bore scope, so yep here i am looking for ways to get better cleaning results.

hello brother i have a question... after cleaning what you experience is about accuracy is that more accurate or are groups spread out?

Yeah need to go back to proven basics hopps9 Over cleaning is bad this is bad poor quality video

The real question is how much it matters over say shooting a 100 round match. First off, it takes "several" rounds of fouling the barrel for the zero to come back. Second, how much carbon does it take to get the bore back to shooting the best at distance. It's a diminishing return after say the 10th or 12th round where it evens it out on a clean bore, all the way to "so dirty it doesn't group any longer". The better the barrel, the lesser those problems are obviously. I have only used JB and Kroil for 30 years now but that's just the OCD kicking in. Getting the barrel fouled again in a match is the goal.

Awesome review. Subscribed!

The video is excellent and your channel is going to big. I’d be interested in how well the rifle grouped after that deep cleaning. Even after a fouling shot or two.

Hi Audran love your topic does kroil contain ammonia and is JB to abrasive for the barrel thanks in advance

Use the bronze brush without the 4x2. Lot better results. Put 10,000 rds through my L85A1 and never had any problems with carbon build up.

OBVIOUSLY YOU DIDN'T CLEAN YOUR WEAPON REGULARLY. USMC RETIRED

Thank you sir

Thanks

Wow! I bet there's a lot of us in the same boat with you thinking our barrels are clean. Which borescope is that? Thanks for sharing!

I'm hoping you consider testing just JD paste without the Kroil to see whether Kroil actually adds anything to your cleaning. I'm doubtful that it does, and that JB paste is doing 100% of the cleaning. I'm basing this belief on the fact no other liquid "solvent" seems to make a dent in carbon. I could be wrong, though.

Thanks for the video... I just got a bore scope and like you thought it was squeaky clean... There was hard carbon... I use Hoppies and carbon cleaner. Got more out but I am still seeing carbon streaks.... I will try the Kroil next time.

Kroil is a penetrating oil, so my guess is that Ballistol will work just as good….

I don't own a borescope but I found so much carbon fouling even with a slick barrel cleaning regime !!! Using a lead removal cloth , cut to size, and alternating with an ammonia based bore solvent.

Bronze brushes, purchase by the dozen, Pro Shot, Dewey. Plastic brushes use Iosso and montana Extreme. Lots of Snake Oil out there as this video demonstrates. The very best bronze brushes are worn out at 100 strokes(a pass each way). Save the worn Bronze bristle brushes to wrap patches around and use the JB. JB Bore bright(Red) is more agressive than the standard JB. Wild Bush and Grit, great video!

You should try diesel injector cleaner and nylon brush.

Excellent video sir! I`ve used Kroil and paste for decades. And i`ve tried ALL the snake cleaners that claim to do it better than the next brand, but every one has failed, except KROIL!

Try Free All vs Kriol. Try Thurro Clean Next, try wrapping Fine bronze wool in a bronze bristle or plastic brush to scrub with JB, etc

Thanks for the review. I’ve used J&B compound with great success but pairing it with the Kroil really helped…plus the bronze brush helped too.

Thanks for trying. Bore cleaning: the last frontier. It drives us all crazy.