Cush Core was a game changer in many ways, but one of the main benefits was I could ride lower PSI. You gotta try it!! Ride 35 up front and 32 in the rear and you will get so much more performance from your tires. 6’2 330
@@james-hb5tu Yup, DOT fluid is DOT fluid, it doesn't matter who made it (bike brand or automotive brand) as its designed to meet exactly the same specification. Obviously there are differences between DOT 4 and 5.1 (and other types) but DOT 4 for a car is the same as DOT 4 for a bike etc.
You can also use motocycle fork oil in mtb forks if it matches the specs :) Most of bike related fluids are just automotive fluids repacted into different bottles and sold for twice the price
Tips for big guys everywhere after my trials and tribulations: 1. Use a lower volume air can shock (float x or Superdeluxe). It will keep your rear pressures in a normal-ish range and help you get correct sag 2. Zeb > 38. The air spring design in the 38 requires a lot more pressure than other equivalent forks, and the max psi rating is higher (163 on zeb vs 140 on 38). I weigh 250 and in my zeb I run 90psi for 18% sag, I had to run 135psi in my 38 for same sag. 3. TRP brakes are a game changer. I thought codes were great until I tried them, I will never run anything else again. If not, get at least 2.0mm thick rotors like the Sram HS2 or Magura for whatever brakes you are running 4. More tire pressure. Don’t base it off of what your 160lb buddies ride. Your tire contact patch will be the same at a higher pressure as lighter guys at lower pressures, and it’ll save your rims and tires
@@kingflynxi9420 I should say specifically the trail evo or dhr evo. They’re just the most powerful and most resistant to fade. They’re easy to bleed like shimano, but more consistent (no wandering bite point), have a ton of power, and pads are easy to find. They also use 2.3mm thick rotors which helps a lot with heat dissipation and fade resistance
@@kingflynxi9420 they feel way better and have more power. Most high end brakes work much better than codes. Hayes, hope, trp, magura they all are so much nicer
I am shop manager in Bentonville Arkansas and I weigh 215 pounds, and everything this man has said is dead accurate. If you can run coil, do it, it’s more reliable and better for heavy guys.
I can confirm the TRP statement. I’ve run them all (Hope, Magura, Grimeca, recently Codes) the TRP DH-EVO are expensive but damn, so powerful, look awesome, super easy to bleed…far better than the codes I took off.
Mate, you are the sole reason why I am getting back into this sport. I used to ride a lot of MTB as a teenager and kid, but now, in my late twenties, I am 201 cm / 6’7 and the same weight as you, and always thought I could never do it again. Thanks for showing that it is even for big guys possible!
I'm 6'1" and 300 lbs. I'm new to the sport and it's great to see that there are people who are actually bigger than me that can do this. I am trying to lose some pounds, but most of the other RU-vidrs I see videos for are like 145-160 lbs if that. So, thanks bro. I guess I gotta subscribe now.
6' 4" and 355lbs here. I appreciate another big guy doing fun things. They don't make anything for people our size, so it's always a game of finding what works and being unique with solutions.
Hot tips for the big boys. 1: DT Swiss ratched hubs are really strong. 2: Fox float X runs at lower pressure than other air shocks. 3: Shimano brake pads with cooling fins work. 4: Maxxis double down tire casings are stiff but comply to the trail.
@@fat.chance low leverage 29ers don't exist. the low leverage rate recommendation is also for riders who don't get sendy. With modern air shocks and progressive rate coils I would actually suggest a cascade linked big travel bike. Stacking a super linear bike with spacers just makes for a bike that is super choppy off the top and will clap HARD on big hits, I can attest to this as a 250lb rider on a Ripmo, cascade link made a huge difference for me.
I started at 260lbs, getting closer to 200lbs now (6'4"). I would honestly recommend very big people to treat enduro bikes like a trailbike. It just feels so much more stable and composed. It ends up being more in proportion and fitting.
Galfer makes a 246mm rotor that is 2.3mm thick. Codes should have clearance for a 2.3 with the pistons fully retracted. TRP DH-R Evo are designed for 2.3mm thick rotor. DOT 5.1 is DOT 5.1. Car fluid can be used and is recommended, since DOT 5.1 is the spec of the fluid. You might be able to get away with coil rear by running a heavy coil(Fox has 700, DNM has 750) for a longer stroke shock and then 3d print something to bind some of the coils(the way Sprindex works). This gives a stiffer spring rate without messing with a ton of preload. Getting your suspension valved for your weight will be a lot better than just cranking the knobs closed. I'm not sure if you're supported by Specialized, but other brand DH casing is much more supportive and protective than the Grid Gravity casing. If you're happy with the support you get then no need to change though!
My buddy was trying to find a way to loose weight and so when he turned to me and my friend group, (we've all been biking for 30+ years) he was devastated to find that no bike would fit him because of his weight. This is super helpful!! I will show him this video not to replicate it, but to show him its possible to do what he knows he'll love.
There are a few frame builders out there that build frames specifically for very large/very tall riders, they're generally hardtails, but a good fitting hardtail will probably be great vs riding a bike that may be too small if this friend is very tall
@@mrvwbug4423 We found a bike from a custom frame builder. Connected with him through some friends but your totally right! His bike did actually end up being a Hardtail
6'5" 315 dude here. This is an excellent video for big boy mtbers. Great work. 1. I have never pumped up my rear air shock more than 300psi and I'm kind of blown away you have yours that high. Mine needs to be way higher because my sag is stupid deep. 2. What shock pump do you use? Mine doesn't go above 300. 3. Do you ever break spokes? I break a ton. 4. Have you tried the pedaling innovations Catalyst XL pedals? I only have a size 13 shoe but I LOOOOVE these pedals.
Similar size to you, there's ton of pumps between 350-400 psi. Check out fox pumps, but there's many. I run DT Swiss EX511/ 350 hubs with comp spokes and never have issues. If EX rims aren't enough get DT Swiss FR 541 rims, and always, always 32 spokes Front/Rear FR541 rear and EX511 front maybe the perfect combo for you. Last but not least, find the best wheel builder!
I find that if I have to stay on top of my spoke tension otherwise I break off the heads of the spokes normally on the non drive side of the rear wheel. The Blackburn digital pump is rated for 350 psi.
Great vid. Coming from another big fella (135kg an 6'8), when you pick a bike consider leverage ratio as much as you consider reach. It will help your suspension setup and pressures immensely.
Yup! The Specialzied Enduro's leverage ratio is ~10% higher than most bikes in that category, which means it requires ~10% higher shock pressure to achieve the same amount of sag / support. It also means it requires a ~10% firmer compression tune. Not a great option for heavy riders.
Good rule of thumb is to divide the amount of rear wheel travel by the stroke of the shock to get a rough idea of the leverage ratio of the bike. Lower is better for extremely heavy riders.
Bro... You're way bigger than I would have guessed from your videos and your bike sizing. Respect. Having that extra enertia on some of the features you hit brings a difficulty level few people will ever understand. You a bad ass. 🤙
I’m a big guy too. I’ve struggled with suspension setup! But I found a small company in California called fluid focus that tuned my x2 . Now believe it or not I can run 300 / 305 psi in my shock and the knobs actually do what there supposed to do!!! Mainly slow down the rebound! Hope this helps someone out… Ps later I had them tune my fork and it was a game changer..
I thought I ran high PSI in my X2 as a big guy, but you've got me beat by a country mile! I wish manufacturers would pay attention to a broader audience than the old "average" and give us some options for suspension tuning/settings.
I am also about 310-320 lbs. I contacted avalanche suspension they custom built/ tuned a marzochi bomber coil shock for me with an 800lb spring on it. I can say it works so much better than my air shock. I would recommend avalanche hands down
6'8 290 fully geared. I was riding a rockhopper for a year and a half and was bending the hell out of my saddle rails on the stock saddle it came with. I upgraded the saddle to an ergon saddle with Chro-mo rails and it is so solid. I just got a stump jumper and am looking at what all I need to do to make it support me better. The bike shop knows me well and they helped me out a ton getting the suspension fully pumped up and everything, but still feels a little soft. Maybe cause I am used to a hard tail idk.
Go with a float X or SDU out back, you’ll be able to get the sag you want with much less pressure. Enduro is a super high leverage frame and that combined with the x2’s huge negative air spring is what’s preventing you from getting the sag you want. Either one of those other shocks I’d bet you would be around 350psi (only 25 over max) and be able to get 30% sag
I wonder how his stumpy evo is set up in comparison. It is a VERY linear frame that is usually the opposite of what a large rider wants. As a 250lb rider I find that I have to be particular about how progressive the rear linkage (I prefer VERY progressive back ends like what you see on Knollys or Rocky Mountain) is or get a cascade link which my current bike has. At his weight he's pushing the design limits of the shock, where I only need to run 280psi in my shock despite the higher leverage ratio of the cascade link
Honestly, this was pretty eye-opening - I really took for granted being someone of "average" size in the MTB industry. I'm really glad you're making it work, but in the same breath, I feel that you shouldn't need to. Instead of our industry pushing for increasingly margin gains and gadgets, I'd be completely happy as a consumer to see frames and suspension to accommodate more bodies... of course, that's not how things work though. Glad you made this video and that you exist within the community man! Need more folks like you.
As a 6'5” tall 330ish pound bike park and dh rider I would like to chime in. I have exclusively run a coil shock on my dh bikes for years. It requires a 650- 700 lb spring from fox and an internal valving change from avalanche downhill racing out of Connecticut. My current supreme dh runs a marzocchi (fox) coil with a valve job and it rides amazing even though the frame is designed with a pretty linear ramp up. My fox 40 has the avalanche racing hybrid coil set up and requires roughly half the air pressure a person our size would need to run and you gain the small bump sensitivity back that an air fork with max pressure lacks. I've run their stuff for years. Please get in contact with Craig over there this winter and I promise you it will change your life.
Gotta say the rig looks sweet man. A guy i ride with is in ur weight range and is bad for just obliterating rear shocks so he ended up getting a custom built coil shock. Diety tmacs are a magic set of flat pedals and bigger than average, the grip on them is nuts.
I ran TMACs for a couple of years and actually broke a spindle on one just pedaling up out of a wash, was fixed under warranty with zero issues. My shins aren't fans of TMACS haha. I just switched to the PNW Loam pedal and the platform is just as big as the TMAC but I find the pins grip better and I get less pedal strikes. However the PNW pedal is lighter than the TMAC and I might wonder if they would hold up to a 300+lb rider. I'm 250lbs and have no concerns.
@@jonnysnakes5417 Yeah, mine look like they went through a war zone, the spindle was definitely a weird failure. Though I'm finding with the PNWs that the people who claim "pins work better than grub screws" on flats may actually be onto something. The feel of the PNWs is better than the TMACs.
SRAM (and others for bikes) brake fluid _is_ car brake fluid... DOT4/DOT5.1 is the same spec no matter who makes it. I would feel perfectly fine putting "bike brake fluid" in my car, and have done the reverse with zero problems.
Well I, like a lot of the other commenters, am also a larger rider at 280lbs and average height. I’m about to make a big purchase by getting a 2023 Norco Range and was very concerned that I would end of breaking it. I have broken several rear hubs in the past, so it’s nice to see that there are a number of portly fellows like myself that are able to make it work. Thanks for doing what you do!
DOT 4/5.1 (Department Of Transportation) Is car fluid and not SRAM specific. Not sure what brand you are using BUT Motul RBF660 is what I use in my Guides...came from my motorcycle :). Its a higher boiling point for track days. I been using it for a couple years in my Guides with no issues :)
I been reading about doing this since that's what I use to run in my sport bike for track days. How does it combat brake fade and boiling? I am 230 and smoke my brakes at the bike park on a regular.
@@corsaroc Well you have 2 sources for brake fade.. Pads and Fluid. The system transfers heat to the fluid so once that begins to boil you get air in the lines and lose pressure, in turn fade. So the higher boiling point of RBF helps there. It doesnt give stronger brakes just more fade resistant. 2 you can overheat the pads and they fade.SO a good pad for higher temps is key like metallic/sintered. Pads and Fluid are compliments to the system. I dont weigh that much so I dont experience fade in the park.
@@chrisjones7281 Thanks for the info. I do think my issue is the boiling. Fresh bleeds on the brakes and they are good for 2 park days then are soft. Granted most of the summer was 90+ when we were at the park but I got into the habit of bleeding after the second day. I don't remember what pads I switched to last but they were the metallic/sintered ones with the cooling fins which seemed to help ( might have been in my head).
Be cool if he got the opposite, hey? Fox (or RS, or any other suspension team) reaching out to him with a bespoke shock designed and built for his weight. That would be awesome! I really hope it happens. Friggen sweet that there are true Clydesdales out there shredding like champions 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
as a 260lb rider, I've always been very concerned about breaking modern bikes and have intentionally limited myself to CrMo machines... You've given me the confidence to venture into the world of the modern bike, thank you!
Your inspiration has truly touched me! I come from a motocross racing background and although I no longer race, I still have a passion for riding mountain bikes. I have finally found a shop that truly values and respects me. Your videos are fantastic, please continue doing what you're doing!
Fellow big boy here, 6’2 @ 330lbs. I run nearly the exact same components on my bike, but for pedals I run Deity T-MAC’s. Extremely durable pedal with a big foot print, & the grip is out of this world!
I'm 6'4" 240 lbs and I'm struggling with a lot of the same issues you are. Upgrading my rotors to 200mm and 220mm was a revelation! I can now stop on a dime! I'm still trying to figure out how to dial in my suspension, though. I feel like it's always too stiff because of how high the air pressure is in both my fork and shock. I've tried different volume spacers, too, and I can never quite get it right.
Send it in to get valved for your weight and riding style. The clickers on suspension products are made for people who fall inside of a pretty narrow band of "average" weight riders. Exception being something like the Fox X2, but that's a whole other can of worms and tuning always ends up compromised on those IMO. Stiff is good if it means "supportive" but not so much if it means "lacks sensitivity." If you feel like you lack sensitivity then you will greatly benefit from a custom valving mentioned above. Something that can also make the bike feel stiff or harsh on the trail is lack of rebound damping. With higher spring rates, a rebound revalve is almost always required. You'd be amazed in how much difference having the extra high-speed rebound damping makes. At least one advantage heavier riders have is that in air-sprung suspension we are fighting against seal friction a lot less than lighter riders!
Same stats here. Best fork upgrade I made was a negative air spring upgrade to offset the higher pressures. Brings the plushness back. Running MRP kit on a fox 36
I was on 220 and bought me a nice propain tyee. Then I gained some weight and stopped riding because I feared that I would brake my bike. Thanks for proofing me and the tech specs wrong. Let's shredd!
Try doubling up on the front discs. Kinda how motorcycles do it. Also, consider a + sized rear tire. A 26x3.0 has the same diameter as a normal 27.5, in case you wanted to run a mullet setup. Pretty sure it's a similar story with 27.5 plus-tires being the same OD as 29er normal tires. Also, general rule of thumb, run rim widths (the ID) about half as big up to +5mm wider than half as wide as your tires. IE a 35-40mm ID rim on a 3" wide tire, or a 30-35mm id rim on a normal 2.35-2.4 inch tire.
Cascade components makes an aftermarket link that adds a lot of progressivity to the rear shock. I’m “only” about 250 pounds but I was constantly blowing through the travel as well. I fortunately can run a coil although it’s the stiffest spring I could find at 650 pounds but it pairs perfectly with the cascade link
The Specialized Enduro is already pretty progressive out back, and you have to bump up your spring rate a bit when you go with a cascade link, on my Ripmo I had to add 20psi to the air shock, but it was totally worth it as I was able to pull two spacers out of the air shock (from 5 to 3 on the DVO Topaz). TL;DR it's better to get your suspension progression from the linkage vs the shock
As many others are writing here, the TRP brakes are outstanding, when you cook everything else. I do need to find better pads for them though (metal) as i go through them quickly
If you thin thats fun…Pick up a rockhopper from the 80s - rigid, 1” steerer, upgrade to vees the cantis arent up to modern enduro courses. My favorite bicycle, 89 stumpy - never felt a bike so nice…
I'm 6'1" and 335 on a good day... And on my 2016 Knolly I'm running a bomber cr coil that's been modded and tuned by Avalanche. My fox 38 also has an Avy cartridge in it, it's the hybrid cool/air set up. I blew up a float X2, switched to a dhx2 and hated it. Now, my bikes suspension has never performed better. Highly recommend Avalanche for big boy suspension tuning. I also long shocked my delirium and went from 170mm rear to 185mm rear
Great video 🍻. I’m 6’2” and about 240-250 lbs and I’ve always had problems with brake/suspension setups until I’ve been running push 11-6 shock/ smashpot coil fork conversion on my Sentinel and on my Repeater is the EXT E-storia/ smashpot coil. The sag has been pretty spot on and the performance is unbelievable, highly recommend checking those setups out.
My oneup dropper came in the mail yesterday. I was confident in my purchase already, but after hearing that you run it with no issues, i know i made the right choice. 👊
I'm 6'4 and I wore shoes several sizes too _long_ just to get the _width_ I needed. Now that I can get wide widths online it's a game changer. The right size at the right width is so much more comfortable and the shoes last longer because I'm not crushing the sides of the toebox. I'm not saying you're not a size 17 (I haven't seen your feet, and I don't want to!) but throwing that out there in case you've also gone up in size when you just need width.
You can put ANY marketing branded DOT 4 or 5.1 into your brakes. Doesn't matter. If you need better brakes try Shimano Saints with metallic pads and ice-tech finned rotors.
One recommendation.. change the brakes! I've had avid code, sram code, formula the one, hope V2, hope V4 (with the vented rotors) they we're all lacking power for me Go with Shigura, MT7 calipers and shimano zee/xt/saint levers.. much more stopping power, modulation you get used to it after a few rides (It took me 2-3 rides because it was crazy strong) with magura 220/203mm MDR-P rotors I'm 6'7" with 250lbs
6'6" 320 here. Have you ever gone through rear hub internals(pawls, teeth, bearings)? That was what I seemed to destroy, until I purchased an I9 hub. Those Deity Highrise bars are the shit though, I run the 80 mm rise. I just use enduro tires with Cushcore at about 25 and 30 PSI and my problems were solved, but I am most likely 25 years older than you, so I don't hit the big stuff anymore. Thanks for the video.
I’m 300+ and love my 2021 Giant Trance X Advanced Pro 1 and my 2021 Giant Fathom 1 hardtail. Carbon wheels on the Trance X and aluminum wheels on the Fathom. On both bikes I run SRAM Code RSC’s with 200mm rotors front and back. One Up carbon bars, 800mm/35mm rise, GX AXS, and aluminum cranks. I too run higher tire pressure; 38psi front and back. I love MTBing.
Freaking love the breakdown and seeing the comments from fellow mtb superstructures of the world! Another giant here who is running DT350 ebike rear hub and ebike rear wheel, high psi, but closer to 40. Haven't tried the ebike pads yet. Got the same bars which really helped my position on the bike. Good stuff.
Thank you for this, I too am a 340 lb rider and just got a YT Izzo in carbon, I was afraid to even ride it in fear of snapping the frame. This video gives me the confidence to actually ride it instead of the aluminum ht. ty ty ty
Specialized would probably love if you did a top 5 every once in awhile where you had your viewers send photos of their Specialized bikes and you pick your favorite top 5 like every other month or so and make a video about those bikes. It would be great for all of the people really proud of their bikes and it's just another video idea with viewer interaction. You could also do it with any brand but idk what you are allowed to do and not do.
You should look at Spinergy for your wheels. They make tandum specific wheels, which should work for your weight. (And you get to customize your spoke colors...)
Im 6’2 and about 320. Im running tubes until they blow and having been cruising just fine at about 32-35psi. Once they do go I am swapping to tubeless and am definitely going to take on some cushcore because I prefer hardtails. I’ve broken one wheel and that is because I understeered a corner into a rock. Resulting in a taco’d rim. Thankfully knew to tuck and roll narrowly avoiding a broken collar bone.
On the contrary to you, i got myself a nice Rockshox coil and bought the stiffest spring for it thinking that i'll solve all my problems. And as soon as i did it i started dropping weight like crazy and now im 40lbs lighter stuck riding 20% sag on a 170 bike because none of the shops had coils made for this shock. I finally bought some coils and now i have like 5 of them with all different stiffness laying around just in case. The bike did feel racey tho, but I'm starting to question my desire to go with a coil shock lol.
Awesome vid! I weigh 260, down from 340. Adjusting pressures on my bike is all over the place but air pressures are getting a little lower lol. Seeing another large person biking is motivating, Thank you! Did you crash and hurt your arm? lol
Fellow 6ft 3 weighing now 160kg big boy on a bike! I’m a gravel biker and have been riding for about 6 months. Started at 193kgs and have lost over 30kgs and I average about 700kms a month! Go big dudes!
@@diceymaan I started with a specialised rockhopper elite XXL. I also follow GCN for tips and tricks on RU-vid to become a better rider. I’m now on a specialised diverge and switch bikes depending on weather conditions. The trick is to realise that it’s a transformational journey 2/3 years and it’s all about your mindset! You can do it!
I used to bike about 500 miles a month and lost a bunch of weight and then life happened gained it all back and then some was down to 245 and now 325-330.
Good stuff guys! I will say, at my biggest I was 301 and I was running 30 psi with Cushcore. You really should start letting some air out and see how much better it feels. I can’t see how you would need more the 40. I ran pressures like you back when I used tubes and it was a game changer once I started running the pressure lower.
@@christiandruan sounds sketchy. I tested 25 PSI front and rear and I started breaking spokes left and right in the rear. I mostly ride chunk rocks with hard pack dirt (most year round) so I had to bump up to 30 PSI in the rear. I do not have Cushcore
His rims won't survive it. Roval Traverses are a trail rim. If he had DT Swiss FR541s or FR560s or EX511s maybe. At 250lbs I killed 2 Ibis S35s in a year at the bike park and that is a burlier rim than the Rovals, I now run FR560s and am pretty much DH or Freeride rims for life at this point.
With ~340lbs, 60mm shock stroke, and 170mm travel you would need a 800lbs/inch coil. EXT offers them. How do I know? I have a 65mm stroke 800lbs/inch coil right here.
Running a shock that high psi would make me nervous if I'm not mistaken max psi recommended by fox for the X2 is like 260 or something. I just wanted to suggest u try a Rockshox super deluxe ultimate, I have one on my turbo levo and imho it's a much better shock and the max psi on it is 360 so I think would work much better for you. Have fun and be safe!!
i hear what you saying mate, i am 155kg and i break rear rims like crazy, i had to get a custom made, mtd triple walled alloy rim with 2.2 millimetre thick e-bike spokes, so far i have ridden over 2,000 km and its all good. chunky riders rule !!
Dude seeing a guy my size on bikes is awesome, getting back on a bike has been interesting trying to figure out sizing, nothing is in our weight range i find
I am 6'2" 260lbs and I am familiar with your problem. But honestly I hate air shocks as with such pressures seals fail all the time and push air into the oil. The solution to that is to find frame with lower leverage ratio so springs with 600-800rating will work just fine. About brake fluid, it does not differ from automotive dot4. Dot5.1 is useless in bikes as calipers does not heat up that much to make use of 5.1 and it requires way more brake fluid flushes over the year.
Fellow thiccc boy here 6' 1 and also 330. Your videos definitely give me confidence to get back out there and ride. I prefer hardtails but your bike is awesome!
6'3" 315 running a 2021 Altitude and EXT got me sorted with an E-Storia and an 800lb spring and custom valving, not cheap but got me to 30% sag. Couldn't get below 40% previously with the shitty DXP2.
I would definitely suggest some freeride rims (they're basically DH rims but in 30mm width like a typical trail/enduro rim), specifically the DT Swiss FR541, strongest alloy rim money can buy, should keep the same tire profile as the Rovals but might feel more responsive as they're quite a bit stiffer.
We’ve frequently used brake fluid from the auto parts store at our bike shop when we run out of bike specific fluid. As long as it’s dot 4 or 5.1 it’s all the same
I'm 6' and 320lbs, currently running 180psi in my fork(Rock Shox Domain) with 4 tokens and 320psi in the rear shock(Rock Shox Deluxe Select+) with 2 tokens, going to install cush core soon to help stiffen up the tires, running my tires 29x2.5 at 40psi
Running the wrong fluid in your brakes can cause your seals to either swell up or perish which in turn will stop your brakes from working. You saying that you use "car brake fluid" i assume you meen D.O.T. fluid and all dot oil is the same regardless of brand, so D.o.t. 4 from two different companies will be identical this goes for 5.1 too. On most d.o.t brakes 4 and 5.1 are interchangeable but NOT 5.0. Sounds like you have a placebo with your oil.
Great content! I’m 5’11” and 300lbs (down from 400 a couple years ago). I’ve experienced a lot of the issues you’re talking about. I was able to find a 700lb spring for my Fox VanR, but it’s still not enough for my 300lb weight- I need to really crank up the preload. Finding a comfortable seat has also always been a challenge. I’ve recently started using the SelleItalia MaxS5 - with is one of their winder designs.
I am a similar size. Was riding an aluminum hard tale as a commuter. Broke two frames in 6 months. Now I'm all steel. Getting together a karate monkey as a hardtail right now to try out mountain biking
I am 240Lbs and I completely agree with you, first front rear around 50psi is normal, can't understand how you could ride below that. But I can't get the rear shock now I get the thing we can't get a good setting, I had 350psi on my Fox float too, but often bottom, now I got a rigid now, had 180mm for front shock. But surely bikes are a bit weak for big size dude. I ride with Enduro bike handlebar, works well. Great videos, because few big dudes ride actually feels nice to have a great channel like this one! Keep the steam up Man
@@mmdaddct5351 on a e-bike dengfu , don't know if it makes a difference, but even at these pressure, the fox float dps is still not working properly, at the end it act like a hard tail.
I'm similar to you, 6ft 3" 304lbs butt nakey. I run 120 psi in my 160mm forks with 2 tokens, no tokens in rear 160mm shock but running 280psi and sit at almost 30% sag. 200m rotors on sram guide r kevlar pads. Size L frame could have done with an XL frame really. 2016 enduro comp Trying to find riding clothes in 40" waist/3xl or kneepads that fit is a nightmare
