Just stopping by to say hell-o, and thank you so much for your help with me installing an inline fuse in my other HVAC (did everything you said step by step to install a new transformer and electrical testing everything for a short); with all the info I gather from listening to you. Please do not ever say you didn't help anyone... you definitely helped me! I am still checking your channel and website when I can. Glad to see you have/are healed from your surgery. Blessings to you and your family.
what about wire gauge and lug size? even though the inverter will never use anywhere that continuously, there could be very high inrush current when it first initializes. the wire needs to be sized for max available supply current, as do the lugs have to fit that gauge wire and busses need to handle the max available current. bad things can happen if an inverter/battery shorts and suddenly draws way more than any part of the bus can handle and that could occur well before any breakers open. they may also be forcing that in assumption an inverter upgrade or multiple in parallel will be installed(however their tech is setup)
This reminds me of when I was shifting/installing the electric oven outlet; the oven was a gas-range/electric-oven combo (was pure electric). The electrician (of all people) suggested that I run the extended wire with thinner wire as the stove will only used power for the oven. I said to him that I'd run the high current wiring as I can't be sure that someone in the future might plug in a pure electric again and melt the wire (or blow the fuse if that was downgraded). In your case, maybe the next owner might decide to upgrade the inverter to a higher current one... and then possibly run into issues?
That was my concern also. However, the inverter system is designed to add additional inverters if more capacity is necessary. That would seem to negate the busbar as the inverters would split the batteries. GFM
do you really think in the cold and dark months, solar will generate enough electricity to run a cold climate heatpump and batteries will be enough to store the energy? would be looking at well north of 50kwh per day for heat and more if it's brutal. i think dual fuel - furnace + heatpump is the way to go.
December and January are the problem months where I live. For the several years I have been using solar, the output is well below what I predict will be necessary during those months. As I am in the northern tier, we are required to have 100% backup heat when using a heat pump. I will still have a gas backup. From my experience with HVAC service, I have found that backup heat will be necessary less than 5% of the heating season. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman well, even if heatpump keeps up, the issue would be trying to run it on 100% solar i think. you would need to draw from the grid or switch to gas earlier. i supposed if your state's generation mix is mostly not fossil fuel then drawing from the grid would still save fossil fuel over burning gas in a furnace depending on cop and how peak demand is met.
If I wanted to fill my entire garage with capacitors, and invest in a massive voltage regulator to control the voltage, it might work. Capacitors are a dead end. GFM
How many seconds of electricity threw a bank of 5 bojack 240 60 hrtz capacitors set on an alternating relay would it take to produce enough electricity to run 2 110 volt electric generator / motors ?
I have over 1,000 videos on HVAC repair. If you have a suggestion for additional videos, send them to me and I will see what I can do. Btw, HVAC is all about energy conservation. Always has been. Solar is just the next step. GFM
