Don't listen nor pay attention to this fool. He does not know how to braze. You do not put your brazing rod where the flame is, You put it opposite it and you let the heat melt the rod between the copper tubes. You will see the rod get sucked in and circle around to where the flame is. Let the heat do the work, not the flame itself.
I don't know what you do for a living, but I started brazing and welding in 1962. What you say I recommend for low temp solder using a low temp torch. When using a 15% sil-phos, with an oxy-acetylene torch, your method will get you holes in the tubing. Especially in the larger sizes. Constant movement of the torch and "chasing the brazing compound around the joint" when the tubing is warm enough is the best method. This compound does not move by capillary action as well as the lower temp compounds do. You will often get voids on the opposite side. GFM
Really like your videos. You give a unbiased opinion and do very good, well thought out testing. My 39 year old R-22, 2 Ton Trane runs great, cools great. It is wired for the factory optional start assist unit that comes from the factory. The original owner did not opt to purchase that option from the factory. I have obtained a Trane start assist new in the box and thinking of installing it. It has the pig tail connection and is just a plug and play simple install. It's actually shown on the factory wiring diagram as a option from the factory. I'm thinking about installing this today which should take 10 minutes to just remove the side panel, plug in the two connectors to each other and be done. I was wondering what your opinion is on the factory start assist option from Trans ? Thank you and I hope you keep putting out videos. I enjoy watching them and your great testing you peform. Thanks again. PS: I have read many posts and remarks of the 5-2-1 3 wire kits with the potential relay failing in high numbers but the " Kick Start" Brand gets high marks in all the threads I read on different And forums. Just wanted to get your opinion on the two, 5-2-1 versus the Kick Start. Thanks again........
The factory start kit is designed for units with a TXV expansion device. It is not necessary for units using a fixed orifice. In your case, I would not install the hard start. The hard start places more load on the compressor upon start up. It could push your compressor over the edge. On the aftermarket hard starts: both units use a capacitor and a potential relay. This type of kit works well if there is no factory kit. If a hard start is necessary, I would use the factory one if available. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Yes sir, I have the Factory OEM "Start assist" (Tranes wording) kit from Trane. It was in a sealed Trane box and the part number matches the number on my units electrical schematic as being an option for my unit that I suppose the customer had to pay extra for. The connector was just sitting there zip tied down waiting to be connected to the Trane start assist. I installed it last evening and it is working fine. So as per your aforementioned comment regarding using the factory recommended start assist, It should be fine correct ?
@@MacMcCabe2456 The factory assist is the best for your particular unit, but only if you need it for the TXV. Hard start is not easier on the compressor, it is harder on it. GFM
Quick question if the plug for the disconnect is burnt on one of the 4 tips does that mean one of the wire is loose or bad terminal ? Do I need to change out the whole disconnect box??
Thank you for explaining in clear detail why gas furnaces manufacturered after the late 1980s will not operate if the hot and neutral are reversed, yet essentially all other equipment and luminaires whether they be incandescent, fluorescent, HID or LED will operate normally with a hot /neutral reverse, aside from the increased shock hazard potential especially with edison base lamps.
very bad idea the mist ends up causing corrosion and the fins then it can't transfer the heat as it was designed . then you have to prematurely replace the unit. trust me I have seen it first hand been doing A/C for almost 30 years in Las Vegas NV.
That cap you show if I had a ac out and not even tighten it like you show like just hand, tighten it or just took his fingers and barely tighten it and then a month later all of a sudden we had a leaked as he says he put his finger down there. I think he pressed his thumb in it not realizing what he’s doing and he said here that sound that’s a leak and it was only a half pound low half pound charge me $50 a month and it’s been working just fine then he goes to his buddy. I swear I tighten that cap enough to trust this guy now he’s getting into the bigger jobs think he doesn’t want to fool with something small anymore. That’s why when he came out in April he told me to keep the money and charge me.
A large part of this comment is incoherent. Now listen: The cap does not seal the line tap! The schraeder does seal. Look at the tires on your car. There is a Schraeder valve that seals with a plastic cap that is a dust cap. The same is true for refrigeration systems. Tightening the metal cap will damage the flare and then the schraeder valve cannot be removed if necessary. GFM
And that's because of the insulation in the motor it has nothing to do with the insulation on a capacitor is the insulation on the windings in the motor
i noticed these little quirks of flex ducting recently when i reran my basement dryer line.. did it on the cheap cause its electric and its one of the newer driers with many temps and i never use more than med, the run is entirely plastic flex and it flows better than the old foil flex the previous owner had in there. and i suspeect its because its nearly a straight run with only one bend thats not tight at all. the previous one had a huge sag in it where im sure lint was building up and pulling it down further
Question: I currently have an 8” supply in the center of my kitchen. But I’m wondering if I could T that off into two separate supplies so I can have one on each side of the room instead of one in the middle. It’s a 15’ long room
I have an old Citizen Window AC with a orange yellow blue red black WTF What do I do just to get it going to run the fan thaats on it?? I know this is an older vid and you might not get this.. heres hoping... THX
It does reduce head pressure. However, with the good also comes the bad. A reduction in head pressure is beneficial when outside temps are high, but unless the spray is shut down during the cooler part of the day, head pressure could be dropped too low resulting in inefficiency in operation. GFM
Thank you for the video. If you are going from a R4184D1027 to R8184G4009, after you finish wiring the parts from this video. IF YOU HAVE AN OIL BURNER, you need to put a small jumper between the two T's.
great examples of hard pipe elbows and straight flex pipe on "flat surfaces". being cheap and fast is what made them "great". just like everything else cheap and fast, the failure rate is giant right from the start. also rodents cannot chew through, nor enter proper hard ducts 🥸
there's a problem with stretching the flex ducts on install, they shrink and break down with age, ripping apart at random places with normal airflow! that may very well have been the case in many cases. more or less, they need a flat trough or "bed" to lay upon, when only supported here and there or by wide strapping failure is inevitable. new ducts in my own home? 99.9% hard piped. sans insulated bathroom exhausts (minimal temperature fluctuations). not afraid to knock tin and did an "ten times" way over my head job, in an tight space commercial building attic, not only that, in below 10F weather, effectively removing the only heat for the large building full of glass front coolers. sweating bullets and knocking tin like mad, re-using existing ducting to re-make transitions for new gas duct heater. sweating bullets x900. got it done after way too many hours. their other options were remove roof or remove ceiling and all multi rows of wine shelves and other products below for a big lift to fit and remove old unit. I had to bang apart 36" square duct and two 16 x 32" to move it away and built an rack/storage sled to hold the old giant unit heater. I should have never taken on the job, but I did and got it done in about 12 hours straight.
those bad installed flex ducts, remind me of being a kid, where we smashed in a random 150K furnace into a tiny house(bad #1), then where the ducts didn't line up and had to clear main beam, four elbows in roughly 90 angles to go down around and back up... yeah, that's what happens when you have your son and his friend(me) install things at age 14..... 🤣 we actually repaired multiple 2 line deep well pumps (in well ejectors) back then also. but those were pretty easy, check depth to make sure footer valve wasn't in muck and repair the leaking poly pipes, pumps or various parts. those were easy at that age. man are still working to this day(30+ years ago now), some had issues, from brass corrosion (pinholes in ejector or footer valve).
I think I'd pick one of these over something that requires a capacitor. I'm new to electricity and motors but it seems like something with a capacitor would just be more costly. That second motor gets the job done just by making a gap in the metal...if it's stupid but it works, it isn't stupid. And like you said, they don't use much power anyways.
I pulled off an old motor today that had no common wire. There is a yellow wire that was connected to the compressor. Super old unit in Maui and now I’m trying to figure out what wire is the common wire to connect the new motor.
thanks for the video. I'm just starting to design a system so I'm still learning. is there a way to connect a generator AND microinverter-based PV? (i'm thinking of the rare case 🤞🏾where the grid is out, it's overcast so there's low solar production, the batteries are going flat, and my wife is panicing about the stuff in the fridge going to waste. ☺️) is it as straightforward as adding a switch that selects which ac input (PV or generator) is connected to the sol ark's generator input? thanks.
I am not the best person to answer this. I would contact Sol-Ark. What I can say is you can reduce your exposure to this problem by installing more panels than you think you need. My system is over 20 KW with an average usage of 30 KW per day, so even during overcast days, the batteries usually charge up from overnight usage before noon. Solar panels cost less than a generator and use no fuel. GFM
Has anyone asked about the run time on the AC? My AC has ben running all day. I went and threw water on it and then 9 minutes later it stopped running.
I see it has buttons on the remote for how many hours you want it to run (presuming it starts a timer at dusk). There is no programmable timer such as 8:30 to 11:30, just 3 hours past dusk? Looks like a decent amount of light output, though.
Once again you've advised your viewers improperly starting with suggesting the meter be closed down for the simple issue w/the old style valve handle not turning easily. Loosten the nut at the bottom a bit turn the valve off then re-tighten period. The idea of replacing those wonderful old valves with the newer is a waste of money and then you really are shutting down service and relighting pilots. Do you work for those guys? Be honest. You certainly aren't misguiding
From the poor quality casting that restricted flow to the tendency to lock up made these valves go the way of the carburetor on autos. What would happen is the valve would leak, the tech would tighten the nut, the valve would lockup and the homeowner would break off the handle using a wrench to turn the valve. You could repair the valve by disassembling, cleaning and applying valve grease, but why? You would have to shut down the gas line to do this, so why not replace the valve with a Butterball? I have never had a Butterball or any of the other replacement valves leak. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Why would the valve lock up? Its a simple procedure to loosen the nut before forcing the handle with reckless abandon. For that matter the individual might twist any handle the wrong direction. Reuse the existing handle until its exceeded its practical ability to function, many "techs" are so full of themselves and their "divine wisdom" that they only leave a job if its loaded with bright new shiny components along with their excessive bill. Heres another tid-bit to brew over: in 45 years i've never had a bronze valve leak beyond my ability to clean, re-lube, reassemble unless the handle is just beyond repair. Others: yes, Enjoy your ProLine Butterball royalties.
@@DamianBlake-id4kg I find it amazing I would have to explain this to someone in the business. Homeowners don't know what that nut is for and even if they do, they would loosen it and get the valve to move, then leave it leaking. Some don't even have or know how to use a wrench! When you are shutting down the gas from the meter, disassembling the valve, cleaning and relubing the valve, consider how much labor you just charged the customer for and the customer still has a junk valve. BTW, don't you think, if I was paid by Butterball, I would use a new valve to demonstrate. GFM
