Hi there! I want to say thank you! I appreciate what you said " if it takes you $50 to $100 per paycheck, and buy one at a time", well that was more or less what you said 😅.
Just subbed because of this video. I have an 01 Silverado, and have big plans for it. Mine is slammed and c notched. I am a lead tech at a shop in town with a key to the shop.. Sooo plenty of access to lifts and all my tools. This build of yours is giving me plenty of foresight into the project i am about to get into!! I am just wondering if i need to go with an NV3500 because it will be easier or the T56 Magnum... Decisions Decisions.
Good deal! Glad to have ya on the team. I’m not super familiar with the nv3500. But there are benefits and drawbacks to each. Best of luck with your truck!
@@onthebrink47 Thanks! I still have alot of research to do. I plan to build a shifter relocation kit and run a center console to give that factory "car shifter" look and feel. I am a fan of your stuff so far, and can't wait for more content! Keep up the good work!
I’m not super familiar with that trans. I want to say packaging could be an issue. I think that’s a much larger transmission in general. It’s definitely an option though.
You know you can use the drive shaft from a 4l60e to a t56 the 99 to 02 Silverados use the same size shaft manual t56 and 4l60e could’ve saved a thousand bucks
I’m not sure I’m following you. We had a 4l60. That shaft was too short. From my understanding lengthening a driveshaft isn’t a thing. You could certainly shorten one that is too long but not the other way round.
We purchased that for an fbody. Camaro or trans am. Our engine came from a trans am so it was a little easier. If you get parts through tick performance, which I recommend. Just call them up. An actual human will answer the phone. Tell them what you have and want to do. They are extremely knowledgeable and will get you sorted out.
I’m currently in the middle of a t56 swap on my 08 Silverado, same kit setup looks like you bought. I’m currently stuck right now, my t56 dowels on the tranny are about 1/16 away form my bell housing and it looks like there not going to line up. Did you guys have any alinement problems? Your videos have been very helpful.
I can’t say we had alignment issues with the trans to the bell housing. The only issue there was lining the splines on the input shaft up to the splines on clutch. Once we got that it went well. I wish I had a better solution for you.
If you used the same throw out and set it up the way we showed in that video I’d advise you to stop before installing the trans fully. Further research would appear to prove we did it wrong. I am in the process of redoing it and filming to update that video. Those numbers I showed are true for a more stock style bearing. The one I used is supposed to make contact with the clutch fingers. I’m going to remove the shims we put in and ad that spacer we left out. When we measured that we were perfectly touching the clutch. This is how I believe it is supposed to be setup. Do some research in your own to make sure I’m correct. I’m sorry for the confusion and will update that video asap so no one else goes down the wrong path.
Personally we went with the 2.66. This was based primarily on what my dealer recommended. They said if I planned to “race” or planned to do mostly “spirited driving”. That’s what they would run. I would just ask whenever you’re ordering from. We recommend tick performance. They know what they are talking about.
@@onthebrink47 that’s the exact one I’m looking at. I ran all the ratios through a gear speed calculator and the 2.66 is the one I’m happiest with. The truck is around 5k lbs and it’s gonna get a torqstorm soon so the longer gear will be just fine with the power. I do lots of drifting/sliding around and just drive it like a menace mostly. My only concern is if a stock box magnum will hold the power for such a heavy truck. But you have a turbo so i should be fine I think
To be fair on the turbo part of your comment, I haven’t really been able to test everything to its limit yet. I keep blowing boots so I haven’t really made much boost yet. The magnums are rated for 700ft/lbs. I’ve seen countless stories of them holding much more. My gut says you’ll be fine. It kind of depends on the power you’re trying to make. Weight does play a factor as well. 5k is a fairly heavy vehicle to be beating up. I’d say invest in a good driveshaft and a loop for safety. Personally I’d run the magnum to save from spending a lot of money on a more built one. But I’d understand the possibility of breaking it and needing to upgrade down the road if you turn the power up. You’ll have the trans already, just need to upgrade internal parts at that point. I prefer to go in knowing the risks and having a plan if it goes south. You’ll learn a lot as you go. I have anyway.
@@onthebrink47 yeah I’ve been at this at full speed for about 5 years now. Blown 3 stock 10 bolts, now I’ve hit it with the kitchen sink and I know it’s good for 4 digits. The drive shaft is custom 5” 80wall aluminum with all spicer greasable u joints and sonnax slip yoke. The engine is a fresh ly6 bored to 6.2 using diamond forged pistons scat rods and polished stock crank btr ls3 stage 3 cam. Gonna do ls3 heads and rec port truck intake when I install the torqstorm. On its 2nd built lvl 4 4l65e and it’s already hurt from 500 miles of break in miles on the new motor lol. I’ve done nothing to the truck that would add weight besides the bed cap. Even lighter wheels and tires. Probably getting the tilton organic twin disc rated at 850tq to be safe. Hoping to make 650whp
@@onthebrink47 Sometimes the risk of a bad used t56 is not worth the hassle. I picked up a used t56 for 1400 then decided I would fork over for a magnum. Resold the t56 for a bit of profit. I weighed my options it was 3x the cost but it was the right decision. The risk of potential headache was not worth the money saved.
