I had a 65 F250 4x4 with the “wrong bed” 120 inch WB, 352/4 speed Dana 24 transfer case 44 front and a 60 rear. The badass truck in town after a 500 hp FE swap.
You’ll make a come back like always bro!!! Love your content. I live just north of you in Temecula. It’s funny to watch your videos and see a bunch of places I’ve been.
2 things: at least you’re ok, and also at least it was not something like the motor or transmission. I also just wanted to let you know that your f-100 inspires many including me, and I’m 16 looking for my first Mopar! I love the sound of your truck, and it reminds me a little of Dale Earnhardt’s 2000 Talladega car. Your truck is definitely a model for my muscle vehicle when I get one. Keep up the great videos!
If you don't already have one, put 1 or 2 driveshaft loops with containment tunnels in while the driveshaft is out since you're set on running a carbon driveshaft. That way it's protected somewhat from getting hit and hopefully won't leave you stranded again
I feel ya mine u-joint exploded on my truck going to work one morning I put new u-joint in it the drive shaft was bent so I drove it home went next day in the junk yard bought one put u-joints in it and it's fine I did mine on the side of the road I didn't won't to pay for a tow bill
Say that at after a u joint failure at 130 and you are trying to stop your car while pieces of transmission, floor and driveshaft are flying through the car busting out windows and going into your body with no brakes since that “steel driveshaft” already cut your brake lines…..carbon fiber all day over steel or aluminum in anything over 400whp, better to see the DS go up in dust than you and the car suffer the damage
@@young11984 I've been in cars doing 130 an up to 160 for miles on open highway. I know about steel driveshafts . The one you had probably was made cheaply. I'm making a point here. Driveshafts made in the 60s were strong enough to handle high speeds . Alright then. I'm done with this
1 piece aluminum drive shaft is the way to go. I don’t think anything hit it, probably cracked from previous abuse and just finally went. Carbon fiber on an f100😂. What are you,a ricer?!😂 what’s a couple pounds. You don’t want that to happen again
@@WildhurstLodge imagine how destroyed the bed and transmission would have been had it been aluminum, people cant look past their own opinion/beliefs to realize its not about weight its about one part being sacrificed to save other more expensive pieces and not some stupid ricer shit. See my above comment about what can happen when steel/aluminum comes loose beside you, that carbon broke and exited imo from rear straps getting loose and eventually slipping out the yoke spitting a u joint cap. When that happened the vibration split the shaft letting it go saving the transmission, steel/aluminim would have taken the transmission out and numerous body panels as it exited. Look up what pro mods are using fro driveshafts, 100% of the field will be carbon and 1000x safer in event of failure. I have 2 of them, one in my road course and drag car and was actually cheaper than an aluminum one
@@AllenSnyder-lf7uk sorry but you assumed i was speaking of my own car, i drag race and have seen numerous people injured from A/S DS failures. People died in the 60s from driveshafts hence DS safety loops becoming a standard because of it. I have carbon fiber in my drag and road race car for 5yrs and never had an issue, also never had an issue with the built aluminum ones i had but will never run a steel one in something seeing 150-160 1/8 mile either. You do you though
@@biggerboostksa6831 No it's not. He put a stock 302 into that truck after blowing up the first 302. Unless the 302 is a dart block, it's going to constantly blow if you keep giving it max RPM's for days on end. Go back to making your little COD videos in your Mom's basement and don't comment on automotive channels.
not the first time I've seen these qa1 drive shafts fail. To me it is just not worth the marginal weigh savings. Even if it was a bolt a steel driveshaft isn't going to explode when road debris hits it. Regardless, I'm glad you're okay but maybe time for a driveshaft loop and a different driveshaft haha.
I hope your truck finally gets some suspension that lets you take advantage of that engine. Make it handle and stop. Im kinda guessing that axle wrap and hop from the launches at the drag strip killed your driveshaft.
dude soo many bots 🤣that highboy is a beaut, i saw one for sale in my town, 460 69 f250, they wanted like 4500 bucks a few years ago, i wish i woulda jumped on that 😅
Im not sure a giant bolt slamming into a steel driveshaft would make it fail at all... I'll defer to the experts but I'm not totally buying that this isnt a carbon fiber failure. It almost sounds like carbon fiber is more vulnerable to FOD damage. Either way glad the damage isnt worse than it is! Your videos always motivate me to get in my piece of shit and send it instead of hopping in the boring daily.
@@martinmetz8985 that’s right when they changed the frame 77 1/2. I have had horrible luck with both Ms 351 and 400. The 400 should have been good, but they needed a 4V for working and the funky cam timing like he 460 had in the same frame time.
@@martinmetz8985 Did you have any luck with the M blocks? I just put 390-413( .020 over 352 with a 410/428 crank. Man the 413 internally balanced with.045 quench was a force of nature with a 750 3310, header and the 80s 445 with the 4:1 low. You could gear it up and keep up with traffic and the NP205 gear to gear transfer case and a Dana70 in the rear and the open knuckle 60 was really good. But the Ms I had detonated so much the exhaust manifolds would turn pink and crumble.
@@Bbbbad724 the m is a good engine with the smog removed and a straight up timing set. They were retared 4 degrees from factory. I have a 460 out of a 76 Lincoln the po swapped in the 90s using one of the first l&l kits. It needed rings and a valve job when I got it so I talked to Scott Johnson at parkland prefomance machine and got their “tow pac” engine kit. Custom cam 213/227 @ 0.05”. Ported d3 heads and later efi pistons. I dynoed my truck recently on a mustang dyno made 300whp and 450 ftlbs
Didn't you have a square body 73-81 C-10 with the next generation 90's square body front clip? I saw the videos, sometime later I saw it/clone in Coronado, CA Around NAB. Unemployed Auto Tech here in South San Diego lookin for new shop.
Though you said being Carbon Fiber is one reason it didnt PoGo, would it be worth installing a hoop should anything like this happen again could it help to not damage other parts?
I really wish he wouldn't make dumb excuses about the driveshaft. We all know why it actually failed. All it takes is a little observation and reading the documentation that QA1 provides. QA1 makes GREAT carbon fiber shafts btw. But please don't waste money on a cf driveshaft for the street. The epoxy resin cannot withstand the high temps of longer trips particularly when exhaust is routed near them. Get your axle wrap under control, loop the tunnel, correctly size a STEEL shaft and forget about it.
Man I can’t really tell but you may want to check your I beams. I think that’s one of your I beam bolts from the spring perch. It holds the radius arm on the I beam as well. It’s impossible to know from a video and I would rather risk looking like an idiot than you get hurt somehow.
Are you tired of ford motors blowing up yet? A stock LS 6.0 will almost make the hp you had and a few mods on the LS it will make the 500 hp you have and it won't blow up, put a turbo with 17 lbs of boost and you have 1000 hp.
@@glenryan6569 I d put a Mercury 410 in it, bore it.020 for a 413 , 5500.6000,you won’t break that. Headers, 750 VS and a Comp 282S , 410 hp and 466 ft lbs on regular. Find a good pan and accusump for the way you like to drive.
