How Not to Make and How to Make a Collet Using a Punch 

OMG! I thought the issue with my tube-to-collet block breakage was my fault. Turns out it was the technique. 🤦‍♀️ I am SO glad you made this video. Thank you, Chris!!

I’ve just bought a collect block after seeing another channel tutorial. Thank goodness I’ve seen this before trying it out. Thank you so much for making your videos and sharing.

I just watched a video where the instructor explained how NOT to split your bezel. First hammered the bezel a couple times with the top side into the hole to thicken and curve the top edge in just a bit. Then he turned it over and placed the bottom in the hole. Once finished creating the shape, he put it into the hole closest to the finished size and finished as you did.

Thank you for showing the right way ,Really this is the first thing we learned at jewellery school . anyone who made a video showing the first way is not much use. That is why taking proper lessons for the basics is so important, Please go to classes .

Nice! I was learning that trick from an old jeweller who was not even using the collet punches, he was doing anyshape at high jewellery standard only with pliers, saw, and files

Push the straight sided tube (like in the start of your video) fully into the setting plate by putting a steel block over it before hammering. That way you don't damage the setting plate. Obviously, you start with a tube a bit larger than needed. Work down the hole sizes. This gives you well shaped sides. If done properly, you might not even need the punch. There is no need for curving.

Thanks! Learning to make more complex jewellery this was super helpful in using collets!

I appreciate your being willing to share so much. I’m new to metals

at last someone who gets it¬i too as an artist knew you can not make a cone shape perfect out of a tube, thankyou for telling truth

Thank you so much.🙂🙂🙂🙂.Helps a lot……

Thanks! Great information and thoughtfully prepared videos.

Curving the strip first was a game changer

Thanks Chris!

Thankyou for sharing this video, very good info

Thanks for the tips. I've only ever tried the wrong way before.

Yes - how it is! I like the way you curve your straight strip here - I would normally mark the curve to size and then cut from a larger piece of sheet; probs easier an outcome when using very thin sheet, but also more wasteful. Great to example of how we can adapt our own tools to better achieve our objectives.....but I'd never thought of using pliers for this curving task - I'll be making up your fab strip benders :))

This I needed to know.

Jewelry Training Solutions also has a great video that explains this process in detail.

nice video. I enjoyed it!

Great video! Thank you!! 🙏

Hear, hear! I've been taught to do it this way. We're calling it two pence piece so it fits on two pence snuggly.

I’ve been needing this info

Thanks for sharing

Nice! Thank you!

You can use your ring sizer (minus the spinning die carousel) as a press when needed. Works better than a hammer.

Ty ❤

Thank you Much!

Thanks for sharing. Real!y enjoy your vixeos

Крис, спасибо тебе за то, что ты есть..) ты очень помогаешь!) ты сила!)

Awesome

I use a small hammer and bang on one side gently until you get an ark it stretches' the metal . I was taught by my grandad and father as they both were jewelers. Thank you 1 I will try this way too.

The main reason why this sometimes does not work is the degrees of the collet block you are using....i can see yours is 28°.....other blocks available are only 17°....the lesser the angle the less chance the collet will split.

cool, thanks....

how's it man great video I've found the best way it to use a valve punch and hammer it down into the block until it's flush with the top of the block then anneal pop back in and then use the tapered punch to shape it works like a dream

I do think you are missing an important point here. I understand why, because you are a fine metals jeweller, but I think the reasoning is key. I’ve found that the “just bash it into a collet block” approach *definitely works for sterling silver*, as long as you anneal three times. Hear me out…One of the hidden reasons why the “rainbow” approach is less prone to split, is that soldering after rainbow automatically anneals the strain you’ve put in while rainbowing, as well as the (weaker) solder joint is not strained as much. But if you anneal straight after it flares in the collet block, tap to half-done, anneal again, tap to not-quite-done, anneal again, and then finish tapping, honestly this really does work without tearing. Two anneals can work, but it’s risky. Also, use a 17degree collet block not 28degree. But, *specifically for sterling silver*, you don’t absolutely need to rainbow if you anneal enough. And it’s a lot faster, particularly if you haven’t got a lifetimes skill at rainbowing, which actually means it’s the right approach for sterling silver [appreciate that’s controversial]. But here’s the kicker: that won’t work for some of the various gold carats. If you try it with 9ct yellow, or probably any carat white, it will indeed split, and you do absolutely have to rainbow. And that’s why professional jewellers are taught to rainbow. And once you’ve got that skill down pat….why wouldn’t you do it on silver too, just because you can…… Now, back to sterling silver. Again, this is about the “fine jewellery” perspective vs small production perspective. Three anneals sounds like it’s going to be time-consuming, but it’s not, because: the fine jeweller is making *one* custom collet for *one* ring. But the economics and mode of working for sterling silver are different. Making one silver collet is just *never going to be economic*. Typically, you are in batch-mode, making 10-20 units. I can make 20 collets in maybe 15 minutes this way (including soldering and cleanup) and I just couldn’t do that if I had to rainbow them individually. “Ah, but what if you don’t need 20 collets and they’re all different sizes”. It’s sterling silver. Keep them for another time, and if you haven’t used them in 2 years, then scrap them. The cost of the metal is pennies, compared to your labour. This is totally different to working in gold where you can’t afford to make a batch that you’ll never use. Lastly, the point about collet block angle “a professional jeweller should be able to make 28degree collets”. Yes, in gold, if you are being paid £80/hr for a commission. But in sterling silver, and for any item under £200 retail *you are not being paid to construct arbitrary difficult objects*. Nobody is paying £10 extra for a wider angle collet.

No problem to use a ready tube with cracked wall. It's easier to fill and polish the fraction after hitted than doing a flat circle piece forehand

You always can just cut it to be closer to the conical shape instead of making a normal tube. Just measure the height and top and bottom circumference of the cone that way. The first incorrect method it is quite obvious that the expansion would split the joint.

Do you have a fix for an uneven angle on a collet? Great video!

It is possible, you need to upset the tube straight down into the block first before using the punch. then you have enough material on the top edge. then it DOES work! i do think your way is better

Appreciate this. Great information. Off topic. What brand is your jewellery hammer?

Hi Chris, Great video! Please can you show us how to make a Rex collet. Taaa

Any tips on using a Square Bezel using a square punch Block liked these?

How about starting with a washer shape made by using hole punches to make the washer

Hey Chris! I was wondering if you could cut a piece of sheet the diameter of the collet you want to make with a hole in the middle and then punch it? It wouldn't have the solder joint to break then, sort of like how people make "Coin Rings".

What about using pre made tubing without solder join. What's the situation there ? Can you do. Demo please? Many thanks

You can that way. There’s a work around to avoid splitting

Thanks for the great video. I'm wondering what gauge the flat wire is that you're using when making your collets. Thanks. Joanne

Thank you. Now I that is a wrong way to make a tube into a cone/collet. And can try doing it a better way. like take a tube that's not too long and/or narrow. I would use hard solder or even very hard. I would anneal the piace. I would hammer the tube flush with the surface. I would maybe anneal the piace again. First then I would use the punch - and

Could you make a collet from a flat disk though?

Only time I ever make heads is if I'm melting other people's gold Down or I have a strange dimension of stone to work with. Most times Other than that it is more cost effective to get one cast. Or cast one ourselves if we have the pattern. That said it is a good skill to learn

Excellent demonstration.But who could show me the system of creating a closed heart-shaped bezel?Astuccishop!!!

I just ordered a cushion shaped collet block. Can somebody give me any pointers so I don’t split it ?!! I’ve been told that the first method shown will work if you fuse the metal instead of soldering it. Any suggestions help !

you gotta press (or hammer) it down a couple of holes till it's flush with the block surface before using the punch, 99% of the time mine don't split...

So frustrating I have tried it doesn't work. You right

I'm wondering if the degree of the angle of the collet makes a difference in the straight tube? The one you used seemed more than 17 degree. Not doubting just wondering.

Hey where do you get your paper ‘wizzer’ from? I got a new foredom that came with a quick release hand piece and can’t find paper barrels to fit anywhere. My old ones were 3mm, but yours look like the 2.3mm I’m looking for? Thanks in advance

Где такую приобрести?

If you'd polish the block you'd eliminate the need to sand the collet after.

I love your videos Chris but there are many times when you are showing a difficult part of the process and even though I think you are honestly trying to show how the process is actually done correctly there are many of the exact same cuts in your free videos as you are describing here. You also seem like a man in muddy waters. You left it all to pursue the only. But now the only needs you to be functional. Your videos are the most informative there are on RU-vid with a few others that I would never even consider ranking because they all share something that would otherwise be unknown. The problem is that making jewelry is an expensive hobby and it takes a lot of money to get started. I like your videos because you speak to the people who have already invested in the process and you try to keep it as real as possible while still making enough money to support yourself. The problem is that most people watching these videos are people who would love to create beautiful pieces of jewelry but are currently having difficulty paying their bills. The current paradigm would suggest you need to create another level that pays you what you are actually worth but when you become a teacher payment is far and waits long. The people making enough money to pay for your patreon are almost always going to be the rich people with a new hobby they picked up for this month or next. The true value of your talent is in teaching those who have the capability to create in a similar way that you do but have no wealth or even enough to pay for their rent or food. Those people will learn from you and they will be grateful but they will have nothing to offer until what you have taught them bears fruit. Even when all may have the ability, some will make it and most will not. Those who didn’t make it likely had life interrupted by the need to pay bills so they took a job at a factory or a fast food joint just to make lesss money than they need to survive. Again love your videos. Very much appreciate you being real. But I’ve also noticed some cuts in your videos where you have to cut time in order to make your video tangible and profitable. Maybe those other people are doing something similar but they are abusing it. Either way I can’t afford to support you financially but your free videos are as close to real as it gets and I appreciate that.

🐝💤💫❤💥👍

They poo poo it because they don’t want the regular guy or gal to get the knowledge. I ran into this when I was trying to learn hand engraving.

If you put a round, dime like, piece of metal in one of the holes in your block and beat it down with your punch it’ll make the collet or cone shape you’re trying to make. You over thought it and did a bunch of unnecessary work bending and soldering a rectangular piece of metal into a tube for no reason. Just saying

du laberst zu viel.

@mandysmetaphysical777