Andy, I've done so much of this by myself and you really put it all together by your lonesome. Very well done , clear video and in the proper order. Nice job.
Great video Andy! Thanks for sharing and inspiring me to attempt this one day on my '65! Loved the cliff hanger and looking forward to what your going to do next. I thought my engine bay was clean, but yours is immaculate! Lol!!!
We really appreciate everything you do, I have a 1965 Mercury Comet. It uses the same engine bay and platform. Thank you for the knowledge you give us!
Well you got me pretty good with your ending. I thought my connection went bad and was ready to throw my phone out the window!!! Great vid and looking forward to the next one
Awesome!! Most people don't watch to the very end of my videos, so I figured it would be a treat for those that did. Except, this is probably not the treat they wanted. :)
I’ll be doing the same thing here in a couple months. The entire drivetrain gets replaced. She did good for 57 years. Time to freshen everything up. I still have to decide on exhaust - shorty or tri-y as well as mufflers. I just rewatched your vid on that. Thanks for that one!
If you're asking, I'd say Tri-Y headers. The problem I've found is that they're either really cheap quality or they're too expensive for my budget, that's why I went with those JBA Shortys. As this car progresses, I'd really like to either do some Doug Thorley or FPA headers. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I think tri-y's are the right way to go for my build. I'm going to replace the factory PS with the Borgeson solution as well as the ididit tilt (my eight foot long legs would really like some more room) that you did while the engine is out. Tri-ys seem to be the recommended exhaust solution for the Borgeson. Too bad the Dougs ones are sooooo expensive! People like them the best. Get what you pay for, I guess... :)
Andy, I’ve been looking at getting a mustang for a couple years now. Your videos have really inspired me on how I want to restore my car when I get it. Keep up the great work!
Entertaining video as always. All things considered that went pretty well but I have a few tips for next time. Use a load leveler instead of the carb lift plate, it'll make it much easier if the tranny is still attached. Summit sells tail shaft plugs for T5s for like $10. There is no need to unhook your steering linkage, engine crossmember or export brace, particularity if you use a load leveler. Don't worry, everyone makes a mess pulling a motor. 😁
Awesome video as all the rest. I am pulling my original 289 and C4 next month to redo the engine bay on my 64.5 coupe! Thank you for the tips as I need them!
Hi Andy! Enjoyed the video. Lots of good info here, little details and heads-up! Appreciate it. Thanks for sharing. Merry Christmas Holiday season to you and yours. Love and blessings from Motown/Dearborn.
Haha. Fantastic ending. Evil Andy. I didn't expect the whole transmission to come out while you were pulling the motor... I should have when you unbolted the shifter. Looks like a great winter project. Fingers crossed it's done before spring.
Great video Andy! Can't wait to see what engine goes back in! I just got done doing an all wheel disc brake conversion on my fastback ...what an adventure that was 🤪
Thanks! Yeah, I'm excited too for the what goes back in. Four wheel disc brakes would be cool, but there's so many parts still to buy, not sure where it would be on the list. :)
Very cool video. Removing engines by yourself, you should buy a "load leveler" for the hoist. Cheap money and it really helps get everything lined up when you are alone and don't want to damage anything. Can't wait to see what you are doing next with it! Great ending by the way 🤣
Agree. I've pulled my motor/trans a few times, and the last time I did it with a load leveler I tried before but just couldn't get to work right for me. Before tossing it, I gave it one more try...glad I did. A load leveler is definitely a good tool to use, especially when doing it by yourself.
I've done that so many times I can do in my sleep, I don't even pull the hood, but your right you should have cut off what was left of the old shock tower braces, like you will ever put them back on again.
Hey Andy happy Thanksgiving. I borrowed your custom throttle linkage idea and made a slight change to it. I didn't do a how-to, like you do (no idea how you have the patience for editing I can't do it) but I show the finished product installed. I would have left a link but RU-vid's weird about that sometimes you can sometimes you can't. If you got a second it will be awesome if you checked it out. It's basically exactly what you did but I used a pair of 3/8 tubing benders. I wasn't sure if it's stainless steel tubing would bend with the all thread running through it but it did.
Haha, doing RU-vid videos by yourself requires patience. Yeah, there’s lots of cool design options for throttle linkages, I’m tempted to take another swing at it. 😄
Yeah, when I did this on my first mustang, it was an auto and I didn't have the shifter mechanism sticking up, catching on everything. Lesson learned. :)
Great video! Will we be seeing a bored 289, or a bigger block like a 390 or 427, or something else soon? I mean you moved the battery because you needed the space... Either way, I'm looking forward to what's next!
Yep no other reason to leave the hood off. Hey at least it’s not an auto and have to deal with the trans lines I forgot them once and yeaaaa. Im looking at a shop called west coast engines to get a nice 347 stroker or a 302 mild build but I am at a cross roads I sorta want to run my current engine to death before upgrading. Plus out the door the one I was looking at ready to run was like 9k
It’s easier if you have an engine hoist, but other than that, it is really easy to remove an engine. Especially on these older cars with minimal wiring and hoses. You’ve got this!! 😀
I would advise next time to mark the location of the driveshaft at the 3rd member and tailshaft....just to avoid an accidental imbalance situation (in case of a slight imbalance condition) where the yoke is assembled 180 out from where it was originally. Pulling the crankshaft pulley and valve covers off gives alot more clearance in those areas that become critical when lifting and pivoting the engine at a steep angle. Also, when you get ready to pull the engine, if you jack up the differential of the car by about 1 foot or more, this gives you much easier access to the underside when the lifting operations occur and you also don't have to tilt the engine/trans assembly at such a steep angle with ultimately gives you better clearance and more control. Try this on the install and you'll appreciate IMHO.
Smoke and mirrors brotha! Plus it takes a long time doing stuff by my self and setting up the camera, so sometimes I’ve gone into the house and washed up between shots. Sometimes I spend the whole weekend doing a video.
@@AndyKruseChannel I don't know brother I was purely speculating. I just really wanted something kinda exciting after the evening I've had. I pop off the air horn off my AVS2 carburetor to jett it 1 step leaner and in the process of cleaning the boosters I realized one of my primaries has a hole in the casting on the outside. My one month old carb is essentially defective. 30 miles maybe. I put up a two and a half minute video on my channel showing it. How disappointing. I have to call Edelbrock in the morning and see how quick they'll get me another booster I guess.
