I have built my channel around some of my hobbies. I like to work on cars, as well as projects around the home. Check out my videos on my various projects I've completed, as well as my current time-suck, the '66 Fastback!
Top Tip: I had all sorts of bother getting that loose, floppy seal to stay centered when offering up the sender unit to the tank. I was cursing Andy thinking that he must have edited his video a dozen times as he made it look so effortless!! 😖😂 I thought I'd got it in place - there was no signs of the seal protruding around the edges of the unit. I put some fuel in the tank, came back the next morning and it was dripping fuel every other second! 😳So, here's the tip: put a smear of Permatex etc sealer around the base plate of the sender unit and sit the seal on it, making sure that it's centred correctly. Leave it for 24hrs to set and adhere the seal to the unit. Then put more another smear of sealer on to the the mating face of the fuel tank. The seal will remain centred when you offer the unit up to the tank and you'll get a perfect seal between the unit and the tank. Leave for another 24hrs to set before filling the tank. Hope this helps! 😅
Lol, no fancy editing in this video. The permatex would work, but it doesn't take much to hold that gasket to the sending unit, and you wouldn't need to wait 24 hours before install. But, if you're not in a hurry, this would work too. :)
Less wires. I have since rewired the whole car and the American Autowire Harness requires a one-wire alternator, which is fine because I like how this cleans up the engine bay anyways. :)
Thank you so much for the great how to video, going to follow the same route here with my 1965 Mustang. Did you include a master cylinder booster as well or just the master cylinder?
a dot of paint on top of your socket will help on rotation placement . and i like the sharpie trick guarantees you get back to top dead center for number one when you are done BONUS !!! :)
The jegs low back seats they also make the same seat as the low back except it also has a headrest both versions are $250 dollars! Both recline and seat sliding tracks!
Hi Andy, in the end of the video it looks like you struggled a little to plug the coil wire on the coil, did you have any issues with this? did the wire pop off? I think I have an issue with my coil wire, i also struggle to get it to click/make a good connection, I believe its popping off while driving and causing my engine to stop running, ill usually have to put it in park and try cranking it a few times and it will start again. I recently parked the car outside and took the coil wire off for a few days as one of my anti theft devices LOL, so that why i am thinking the coil wire is the culprit.
Haven’t had any issues. If you have trouble starting your car and then it just starts working, and you didn’t touch the wires, I’m thinking it’s not the plug wires. 🙂
Wow thanks for the shout out you’re too kind. Glad you found a good home for that horn button. That truck is really coming along nice. If you don’t mind drilling there should be a hole or two in the foot of the gauge cup mount. I drilled and tapped my column for 1/4-20 and bolted it down. It held a 5” tach for many years.
You bet! Every time I look at the truck, I get that feeling that I need to tear it all the way down to build it back up. There are some major projects required and I wish I had more space to go through this whole thing. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel It's a slippery slope. I wish I would have just left the body of mine alone. It's tuning into way more trouble than I thought it would.
Awesome vid. Have a 66 Fairlane 390 4spd Open 8” rear not sure on my gears. How did you pick what ratio to go with? And how to pick proper Speedo gear? Im in Canada & GPS the car it’s not in Kms or MPH. Reading is off for both. Thanks for any help
Picking the gear ratio is dependent on what you're wanting from the car. If fuel economy and cruising speeds are your priority, then something below 3.00:1 is for you. If you want the car to accelerate faster, but at the cost of higher RPMs at highway speeds, then something in the 3.55:1 or 3.83:1 ratio is more for you. You need to know the tooth count of the speedo gear (inside the transmission) on the output shaft, gear ratio in your rear axle, and the tire diameter in order to calculate which speedo gear you need to buy. There are websites that can help with that too.
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the reply. I’ll be crawling under car this wknd. I didn’t see a diff tag so I’ll have to try rotating tires & count turns on driveshaft. And I’ll look up what 4 spd is in the car & pull the Speedo gear
@@Yamadeere For the tooth count on the output shaft of the transmission, you'll want to look up the transmission you have online, it should tell you. The tooth count in the speedometer cable is a different number (although it is important too). You probably have a 7 tooth gear on the output shaft, but you'll want to confirm that. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks Andy. I did some looking and I have an open 8” rear with 2.80 gears. 205/70R14 tires = 25.4" 4spd trans is wide ratio with 28 spline tail shaft 16 tooth Speedo gear. I’m thinking I’ll go with the 3.55 gears & locker. Then I’ll just have to figure out what Speedo gear to get things reading right. Keep up the great show. Live the car build I’m gonna be trying to do a lot of that this winter. And the truck build is looking good too
I agree, by today's standards, this is definitely a small car. I like to look at it like it's a smaller car, therefore it's lighter and more power is going towards acceleration instead of trying to move a heavy mass. :)
That core support and engine compartment needs some rust removal and paint! Also, that lower neck looks like it will be a future issue if not immediately. That junk you saw with the upper hose removed points that you need to flush your cooling system and replace that T stat. Should be done before a new radiator 😮 Lastly, you’ll save money if you added a fan clutch type fan. Easy junkyard upgrade.
I found a nice set of gray leather front(power drivers seat) and back seat from a 2000 mustang for $250. Putting in my 67 convertible and also has 3 way seatbelts.
You've done great. We can't all be Jay Leno. I'm slowly builing up my 2009 Mustang V6 convertible. That being said, I realize what I have, and what my max is for investment. I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible, and mechanically and structurally sound, while adding small mods... dual exhaust, front lip, side scoops, tailight bezels, black out deck lid, etc. I added strut and shock tower braces to stiffen the handling a bit. I even removed and repainted the front bumper cover in my basement. Anything I could do myself I've done to save $$$. Eventually it will need to be painted, but what I have is fine, and I don't stress if I get a scratch here and there. It's my daily driver, and I ENJOY it as such!
Exact same. The difference being some cars have the 4-bolt or 3-bolt spindle, so it won't look the same during the install, but it won't matter since the Wilwood bracket is designed to fit either spindle, and the brakes will work the same in the end. :)
Advance your timing. This will also raise the vacuum. Vacuum helps atomize the fuel and keeps it suspended. It's not uncommon to have about 30 degrees of advance at idle, especially with heavy cams. This will also help the lumpyness and wanting to stall at idle.
Yeah, it's a very small part because it's a RU-vid SHORT! You cannot fit everything one would need to know about idle mixture screws in a 60 second video.
Check out TMI Products sport seats. It's a different shape built on top of your current seat frames. You install newly shaped foam and covers and they will perform while retaining some of the vintage feel.
hey Andy great stuff.do you notice that where you have the existing sensor switch that the fan does not cycle on and off? rather it stays on once the temp is reached and does not turn off because the sensor is right at the coolant output from the engine and its always hot there
No, a leak here would not cause white smoke. If you're seeing white smoke, it is likely the manifold gasket or head gasket leaking and the coolant is getting into the combustion chamber.
Just got a 73 Bronco with a new 1406 on it.😁 Haven't worked with a carb for at least 35 yrs. Sounds like this maybe the first step? And then look at the springs and jetting rods?
Yeah, assuming the carb is clean, getting those idle mixture screws dialed in is a great place to start. The 1406 is identical to the performance oriented 1405, but is tailored to be emissions minded. I found using the Jets and Rods chart for the 1405 gave me more performance from the carb instead of sticking with the 1406 chart. This is a common path when tuning the 1406. I did a video about upgrading the Jets and Rods, and I talk about using that chart. Good luck, you’ve got this! 🙂
I believe a wide band really needs to be hooked to both sides of manifold. Your hooking up a single side, so this is narrow band. Not sure how to do that yet,, but your the first video i clicked..
No, a Wide Band O2 sensor is just that, it measures a wider band of the potential mixture in the exhaust stream. Reading from 8:1 (rich) to 18:1 (lean) is where most wide band sensors are reading. Narrow band sensors are not as sensitive and they only tell you if you're rich or lean compared to the ideal mixture ratio of 14.7:1. Also, on carb engines, where fuel is added up top for the whole manifold vs individual injectors (like modern engines), there's no need for two sensors as the fuel that goes to one bank of the engine is 99.99% the same as the fuel that goes to the other bank. If my engine had 8 individual injectors, then I'd want an O2 sensors on each side. :)
I'm considering the 347 stroker rebuild on my 302, Andy. I reckon I get around 10-15mpg depending on how I drive the car. What is the mpg like with your new set up?!
Most people don't like my answer to that question. I don't know and I really don't care. I put so few miles on my car and I like to drive it spiritedly, so MPG is not something I pay attention to. If I had to guess at the kind of mileage I get, I'd say definitely less than 10 mpg, but that's because of my right foot. :)
Tanks, er THANKS for this video, Andy! I'm about to change the sender unit on my '67 Mustang and this was really helpful. My only concern is that my tank doesn't have a drain plug and I have absolutely no idea how much petrol is actually in there!! 😬
The drain plug is usually on the corner of the tank. However, if you truly don't have that plug, drive the car to as close to empty as you dare and then put a bucket under the sending unit to catch the fuel when you knock that ring loose on the outside of the sending unit. Good luck, you've got this! :)
The advantage to pulling the distro first is to make sure everything is lined up on TDC for cylinder number one. From there, we would know the timing value we're reading is accurate. If someone is certain that the distro was already aligned with TDC for number one, then they would not need to remove it and can go onto the next steps. :)
But you could do the procedure you showed with the distributor still in place then pop it up and reposition it on the gear right? I’m just asking because I’m having some timing issues and didn’t pull the distributor first. I pulled it after.
If you realign the distro with TDC of number one after you set the timing, you negate anything done before you removed the distro. I recommend starting over, make sure cyl number one is at TDC of the compression stroke, align the pointer of the distributor, then work from there. :)
