🙈 I literally stoped an African guy at the parking of walmart when I saw him making sure the oil was full up to the point was dripping out of the oil filler cap, it was a see to believe experience
Zack Zander Thank you!! 🙌 Nobody takes the time to do this anymore. I carry a disassembled cherry picker in my trunk everywhere I go. I simply assemble the hoist, pull the engine, and lube up! Personally, I don’t leave the parking lot until I’ve manually inspected each piston, con rod, and wrist pin by hand. I perform a Rockwell hardness test on each con rod, a piston pin bore diameter check, con rod bearing tunnel diameter check, and lastly I check for cracks. It takes me about 6 1/2 hours to pick up milk but I think it saves time and money in the long run. I buy my oil filters in bulk so I can put on a new one every time I start the car.
ryebread WOW. I am definitely going to start doing a better job inspecting all the bearings, pistons, crankshaft, valve guides, cams etc before every start up like you. I got lazy and was only doing that on the weekends, you know, when a guy has a little more time. I felt I was doing good enough just taking it apart each time and pre-lubing it. Do you think I did any damage to my engine by cutting corners? I still would fill the crankcase with new synthetic oil (100% group IV base stock)every time and do a 30 minute warm up, even if it’s 85 degrees outside and I run in and out of the store quick. I just want to prolong the life of my engine.
Zack Zander That's admirable but the supreme way to assure engine longevity is to simply have a warehouse full of engines and replace your current engine every time you're ready for take off. Every trip I take is the work of a brand new engine, every time. Putting my mind at ease knowing every engine will be responsible for just and only it's current trip.
I know out of scope of cars but thats why I use the kick lever on my 150cc bike with ignition off atleast 4 times before actually kick starting the bike.
Thanks for parroting an advertisement. 90% of engine damage happens from Kia drivers who never change their oil in 60 thousand kilometers then blame the manufacturer when the car engine dies.
The bearing surfaces still have plenty of oil film on them to survive the startup. 12 seconds seems very long. After an oil change I see it takes anywhere from 3-5 seconds to get oil pressure
Fill the filter if you can. The noises you hear on a startup after an oil change are the valve lifters and timing chain slack. The friction surfaces are coated by a film of oil.
@J Wil Unnecessary. Industrial engines are built very differently, used in very different conditions and use very different oils (usually much thicker). A car's engine is never completely dry, there is always a thin film of oil covering everything even after an oil change. The crank and pistons are partially lubricated by their own motion causing air to swirl and mix with oil in the sump creating basically an oil mist, and with modern low viscosity synthetic oils it takes like a second for the oil to reach normal operating pressure everywhere. A massive industrial engine left sitting all night at sub zero temperatures in a mine or construction site in the middle of nowhere will have grease for oil in the morning, and that oil has a very long way to go before it properly lubricates that two ton engine.
Wow, simple and understandable explanation, great visuals to go with it, no bullshit, only what I cam for without extra 10 minutes of useless talk. Bravo to this man, you don't find content like this anymore. What a hero.
One thing Daddy taught me 40 years ago is gun the throttle just a tad bit before you shut her down. That way, you pump a bunch of oil into the top end and it can coat everything so come start up time, ya got better lubrication. Who knows if it makes a difference but I've got an 86 Mustang with 327K on the original 5.0 and a 96 Saturn with 200K in the original 1.9. 🥰
What, no 20-minutes talk about how "we all ask ourselfs sometimes how oil circulates but have we ever seen how it blablabla"? Straight to point? I sub!
on engines with hydro lifters you can clearly hear the engine rattle a little bit on startup. it goes away after 2.. 3 seconds till the oilpressure fills the hydros back up to remove the slack.
I have special lubrication software installed into my oil filter, pistons and main bearings. This software makes the components believe they are being lubricated even if they are not. The end result is less oil changes and much longer engine life.
This is why the quick-release engine is one of the greatest inventions of our time and standard equipment on most modern cars. It allows you to prep the stupid thing on your kitchen table before starting. Plus, you can always take it with you when parking so it (or the car) doesn't get stolen.
I am a mechanic, I generally dont fill my oil filter unless the vehicle is turbocharged or a hybrid, I also leave the engine running for about 30 seconds after filling the car to allow the oil time to circulater before checking the oil level and it also gives me time to torque the wheels and put the spare tyre back in the boot. As for hybrids, I leave it running for a few minutes or till the engine auto shuts off(switches to elecric motor) to charge the internal battery of the hybrid, this gives me time to do the above stuff mentioned as well as the paper work and washing up, if there is still a bit of time left I tidy my tools
That’s why before I leave from work I remote start my car before I head downstairs to my car so by the time I’m in my car my car is all warmed for me to take off
Ok but by the time you're properly in the car, comfortable, put on your seatbelt, maybe plugged in your phone, … oil would already be flowing properly, and whether you remote start it or not, it still needs to be started… I only really remote start to melt ice or snow off (I let it run for 10 minutes) - or to hear the engine roar. The minute it takes you to go downstairs won't really heat up the car… Mine would still be blowing ice cold air.
@Robert B No, but the point is oil wouldn't properly lubricate your engine either when you remote start it. It needs to be cold started either way and wear will occur. Plus, your engine idles faster, runs rich, ... and doesn't heat up all that quickly while it's idling. The oil will still be cold after remote starting it.
It would be neat if there was an electric pump that could deliver oil before you start to minimize wear, but I'm assuming this hasn't been done, because there isnt enough damage that is done when started dry.
In the old pistons planes there are severals, the p 51 mustangs can take some minutes to pressurize the oil, but you know when you have a 12 cilinder 2 stage compressors its different lol
this is why you don't just start up your car and start driving. I would wait at least 30 seconds...a minute would be better. In fact, the best thing to do is to wait for the engine choke to come off and return the rpms to normal idle...that way you know the oil has worked its way through into every cylinder and you have normal oil pressure.
amen guys. These media sources or people who tell you not to idle your car from a cold start before driving are full of shit. They either want to shorten the lifespan of your engine, or they are totally OCD about emissions and the environment.
Only on cold starts you should wait if you been driving around and then say go into a store for 20 minutes and come back no need to wait again engine still warm. Just on cold starts give it some time to warm up
John Recaptcha My cars manual says 10 seconds and in cold climates about 1-2 minutes but I just do my thing I wait until it’s at an idle and the temp gauge moves a bit witch only takes maybe 2 minutes
Może i trwa to 12 sekund, ale nie oznacza to, że wcześniej nie było tam filmu olejowego. Nawet w fabryce tu i tam daje się po kropli oleju. Nawet przy uruchomieniu po wymianie oleju cały czas jest film olejowy
Actually only 20% or 30% GOES THRU the filter. It's not the whole lot going thru before it goes to the rest of the engine. Mechanic of 50 years told me.
Imagine your car having an electric cold start oil pump. It turns on when you open the driver door, then the display tells you oil pressure is up for cranking lol.
This is why I turn the key to just power only for 12 seconds before starting the engine. That way the oil has already circulated before the engine has even started.
Some Luxus cars like Mercedes have an electric oil pump that makes the oil always circulating. Anyway I also think it's very stupid. It is just one more thing that can break down (and it does pretty often)
@@mikb7360 This system was introduced in order to reduce CO2 emissions. I don't know how efficient it is in real life. I usually have it turned off on my car. I think it is efficient when the car is stopped for more than 15''. I believe that the total cost of fuel saved is much less than the cost of parts wear when it's time to replace them.
1:02 I like that you put the real idling speed of an engine there. I have always wanted to see an engine that is idling with it's actual speed because in these videos that explain how the internal combustion engines work, they do a slow motion on the animation. and that is not realistic.
Not in a Porsche! The oil pressure shoots straight to 5-bar and holds there - getting the oil to the top of the engine in less than 10 seconds. BUT - the way the oil delays its flow until 10 seconds after starting means that 95% of all engine damage occurs in the first 10 seconds after startup. If you rev an engine within 10 seconds of starting it, you are severely damaging the top-end of the engine because it is not lubricated or supported correctly be adequate oil pressure. My Dad knew this, and so in 1975 he built a small cradle which sat under his car engine when it was parked in the garage. On that cradle was a 500-watt heater, and at the front of the cradle with a microswitch operated by the front bumper. The whole thing was plugged into a timer and it turned the heater on at about 4am, to gentle warm the oil in the oil pan so it was thinner when the engine started. On top of this, he had a spark-killing switch in the cabin which he would turn on when the engine was cold. This allowed him to crank the engine for 10 seconds without any chance of the engine firing. Once he had been cranking for 10 seconds, he'd flick the switch and the engine would fire up, and then he would continue to let it idle for another 10 seconds before engaging a gear. And he never ever revved an engine over 3,000 rpm until the engine was warm. Over the Landcruiser's 15-year & 250,000km life-time, this resulted in the exhaust emissions being superior to my mother's 3-year-old Nissan Pulsar SSS.
First thing in the morning- I remove the oil filler cap , drop trou, center my butt on the hole and drop a fart which I’ve been suppressing since 4AM ! This massive positive pressure spike forces the oil out to all areas !!! If any hydrogen sulfide gets into the combustion chambers it helps with the power stroke. It’s a win/ win for everyone
There is something wrong in the animation with the oil filter. The oil never comes in fron the center hole. The correct insert is from the peripheral holes of the filter and the outlet from the center.
First, oil will remain in your rod bearings, crank bearings and especially your cam bearings unless you take like 6 days to change your oil. Also your oil filter is backwards. Oil goes in from the outside into the center of the filter.
12 seconds is slow scenario with modern oils. It depends on oil's viscosity, age and temperature, to a lesser extent, the filter design. I’m aware that this video applies to a drained system, perhaps an older engine with thicker oil, but this isn’t the case with most normal startups. Most modern engines with low viscosity oils will build full psi within 5 seconds, even after replacing the oil.
Wrist pins get lubricant by splashing oil out of the foot rod bearings; in this animation, the oil should flow trough the cooling jets from beneath the pistón skirt...
When I start my car from cold, I ALWAYS wait until the RPMS go from about 1200 to around 700(takes about 8-12 seconds) in my 328i F30. I know BMW says you can start it and drive off immediately. But when you do that, the transmission jerks like a mother and the whole entire time of driving it until it's cold again it will act funny. To be safe, turn your vehicle on. Let it idle and make sure you have everything. By the time you're done, it'll have been 20-30 seconds and you wont even know it. That gives the engine enough time to be properly lubricated as well as your transmission gears too. Runn iij ng the car hard while not at operating temp(from my experience) can and will overwork your serpentine belt and make it burst everywhere.
The Final Solution If you have an auto the transmission has a cooler and it’s only effective when the radiator is hot so the engine needs to warm up to get the coolant warm to cool the transmission properly or else you will burn the clutch’s and your car go no where
@@ryans413 yeah I know. BMW says even on cold you get get it! Lol. I learned after one time of starting the car and immediately putting it in drive was a bad idea 😂😂
@@IKhanNot I have no issues with it. I'm saying that if you turn it on and put the car in drive and take off right away, they will do that until they are properly lubricated. Hence whhbi said not to throw your car in drive right away after start.
My brand new Ford Ranger 3,2 five cylinder diesel spun a main bearing at 1st service. These motors loose prime in the oil pump if drained dry and if it happens you need to overfill sump to prime back. My workshop obviously didn't get the memo. Brand new engine on its way. I read about this issue and didn't think it would happen to me but there you go. Never trust a dealer with your ride, find a good mech and stick with them or do your own oil changes (don't tell the dealer) Find someone to stamp your service log book.. Damn corona virus delaying repair..
This video is only informative to those who don't know where the engine sits, in a car... The major parts in the sump get oiled instantly and the rest of the engine milliseconds later. When the oil light goes of on the instrument panel, is when the complete engine has sufficient oil pressure!!!!!
While this may be the correct route of oil flow ... does not mean the oil actually gets to all those places ... You must remember that most dont do oil changes as often as they should and some never change their oil which leads to oil burning up and possibly clogging up those passages which now prevents oil from passing thru which means those parts NEVER get oil for lube ..
Could you imagine if all cars came with an electric oil pump and primed the engine before every start? Fuck, the big 3 wouldn't ever sell another car, the engines would last for ever.
So how much of this dry start time is cut down by pouring oil in your oil filter when you change your oil? So the hardest time on a engine is the 1st start up right after you change your oil compared to starting your vehicle up after its been sitting all night in cold weather?
The first few seconds, when the starters turning the engine, it's not actually firing, yet the oils already circulating, and given how the oil filter won't drain back into the sump, it seems like engines start up perfectly healthily. If your engine takes you more than 200,000 miles u got your money's worth. Most people discard their cars well before that.
Only thing is that the channels are already full and it's a hydraulic action so almost instantenous oil pressure at the bearings is archieved. Maybe in some old shitty engine with bad clearances the oil seeps out if the engine is standstill for long enough.
