Snap toggles are what you need. I've been using them for years, and have the advantage that the fixing is by a standard thread machine screw.@@ianmathieson65
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Watched this 2 years ago.... and today had to come back as I have a TV to move to a wall with insulated plasterboard - confident nothing else will work..... but remembered this vid. Ordered from Amazon... Thanks Charlie - again you've saved me from a DIY nightmare.
High end new builds use Plasterboard over OSB. Couldn't figure out why in my Father In Law's place and then he said it was to aid hanging of wall items.
Worked on site 30 years plus . That’s the best I’ve ever seen by miles The thinking behind it is bang on Has a professional I’m really impressed. Top video too
Cheers Paul - always good to get a thumbs up from a pro!! Yep, fixings are pretty fundamental for us in the curtain install industry and I still think this is the strongest plasterboard fixing out there. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Yes it certainly is, and got me out of jail on a job in the Hebrides a few months back, when we couldn't get a decent fixing in a lath and plaster wall - see my Community tab where's a photo of it.
Plasterboard is the work of the devil. Give me proper masonry walls with real plaster built up in layers any day. Can't stand the modern way of even using plasterboard on solid, outside walls- cheap I know, but inferior in every way.
Cost is king these days, it's the way 40% of homes are built these days. So if you have to use a plasterboard fixing, then use the strongest on the market. Bullfix Plasterboard beats Geefix in real life situations.
Looks really good but with dot and dab and my quickly thrown up plaster board walls, I recon I’d hit plaster adhesive half the time with such a long back piece! Maybe I’m just being miserable. I like the concept.
First time used I didn't follow the steps and forgot to put the red string through the circle part..second time it worked a dream.sorry for the confusion. Have bought some more for the rest of the house. Thank you.
Hi Charlie DIYte can you do a video with the masonry concrete screws the ones that don't use plugs and are mainly used for upvc frame fixing, for a drywall with cavity. Reason I am saying this is because all these other drywall anchors/ geefixt etc plugs are very expensive vs the masonry screw about 4* 6 times the Price. I am 0retty sure they will doona good enough Job.
I'll add that to the list. There just be a few videos out there though. I guess the secret is to drill the right diameter hole but I agree they do look good
(4:00 )Why are you using a Phillips bit on a Pozidriv screw? That's why it keeps camming out. And why didn't you mention the Fischer Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings? These are superb. I use them all the time and have never had a problem with them even with quite heavy loads.
Phillips / pozidrive miss use triggers me to no extent, Working in a workshop when i see broken pozidrive drivers and tips, or rounded phillips drivers it bothers me to the furthermost extents of reasonable irritation.
put up stud wall....fix 25mm plywood sheeting....screw plasterboard to plywood...skim...paint...attach anvils,man hole covers,washing machines etc to wall....relax.
Ours are either dot-n-dab on the structural walls, or Paramount partition board on internal dividing walls. It's so difficult to get a fixing, either the plaster dots are in the way, or I hit the edge of a dot. Internally those cardboard Paramount things are just awful when it comes to fixing anything. Again I always hit the exact wrong place. Oh for solid walls!
I bought a packet of these a few days ago to mount a TV on a cavity wall. I absolutely messed up the first time round. I made the holes bigger so I could use bigger screws. Unfortunately the head was too big to fit the two wee screws in :'D Bought another packet and used the supplied screws (just to get the fixing secured) then drilled the holes making them a wee bit bigger once the fixing was secure. Been a few hours and the telly hasn't fallen yet.
Good work. Perseverance is the way forward - you've learnt so much from this! Could you have just screwed into the fixing without making the hole bigger?
As to the Gripit fixings, they're actually a blessing when you have the plasterboard within just a few millimetres of the wall or lintel. Which begs the question: how much clearance do you need , for this fixing, between plasterboard and backing?
My advise, get a a hammer drill, a concrete drill bit and drill through the lintel. Use a plastic wall plug suitable for concrete / solid walls and problem fixed. This way the fixing will be solid AF. If it's a metal lintel, then use a metal drill bit with the diameter smaller than the screw thread size and put the screw straight through. Problem solved. Pro tip: Don't tight the screw too hard, as it will push the plasterboard towards the lintel and it will create a dip on the surface.
@@LordOfLight You must be trolling. What do you call 8:14 - 8:26? He both describes and demonstrates the clearance needed for the fixing. Did none of you actually watch the video?
@@arcadely No I'm not trolling, and yes he describes the clearance for the fixing he's demonstrating at that moment; but not for the GRIPIT fixings that the original comment was about. Don't disappoint me now: under no circumstances admit you're in error and instead claim your mistake is all my fault. I'm looking forward to it.
A great idea and looks incredibly strong, but if you need to take it out, the backplate must surely fall into the cavity like a toggle fixing so it doesn't seem so reusable. I doubt it would be easy or even possible to re-thread the blue cord back through and save it, I could be wrong though.
I often do a similar thing using a thin strip of wood or ply,pre-drilled, & short bit of string to pull, & shove-through a hole or slot in the plasterboard, then screw on,with bracket pre-attached. Or better still, if you can, use a magnet to see exactly where your nails/screws,are,, therefore your timber/metal studs are, & fix solidly into them.
Yeah agreed with the magnet. .I do the same. .but a much more smart fixing is the Bullfix plasterboard fixing ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7NCeDpdfTrg.html
Good product. It you can't source the product try this; Use a strip of wood (or plastic) as in the video. Cut a letterbox shaped slot just large enough for the wood to pass through . Drill a hole in the centre of the wood just large enough for the thin part of a cable-tie to pass through but not the end-locking part. Feed the tie-wrap through, apply strong glue to the surface of the wood that will be in contact with the plasterboard. Holding the cable-tie, pass the wood through the slot then pull the end of the cable-tie until the wood contacts the back of the hole. Pass the cable-tie through another piece of wood with the same size hole drilled in it. Join a second cable-tie to the first and ratchet it as tight as it'll go. Leave until glue sets, then snip cable-tie. Apply filler and paint if required. Now you have a solid piece of wood, with a large contact surface behind the plasterboard ready to support your fixing.
Thanks Mike. Yes I've done this a few times in the past. The beauty of this fixing is you don't have to wait for the glue to set, or worry about the wood disengaging from the back of the board if you press too hard when piloting the screw, or have the worry of the bit of wood splitting. 👍🏻
this is better. .easier to fit in only a 18mm hole rather than 30mm hole. .also not £2, only 50p ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7NCeDpdfTrg.html
Tbf. This can be tricky to get in if the cavity is small. Ive had to trim bits off the length with a saw. It is a remarkable system though. The big advantage is that you csn drill pilot holes through it if you want to 'move' a screw. And you can place a second screw through it due to the back component being so long in the wall. One oftern needs to put 2 screws near to each other through a bracket. Being a polymer makes it great to drill to. Plus it inpresses the clients as they cant buy them in shops. They are for specialist installers
I agree, that's one of the massive advantages that none of the other options have. If the cavity is very tight and it's brickwork behind, my suggestion would be to use a Corefix ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fx90VadXSXA.html
@Charlie DIYte How about spring toggle? Are there relatively good? What is one the second position after GeeFix? That's very interesting to me. Thank you!
It's an interesting point, and you're not the first to ask that. It's a useful way of preventing moisture penetration through the plasterboard but I don't think it's very widely used here in the UK either!
Only slight problem I can see is if there is a dab exactly behind the place where you want to put the support, ie for a radiator bracket, otherwise great product, will definitely buy an eight pack.
Hi Steve, yes but every cloud has a silver lining. If you hit a dab that's perfect, because you've got an even better fixing in that you can drill straight into the brickwork behind. In that scenario, and possibly for the others too if the void between the plasterboard and bricks isn't too wide, I'd maybe reach for one of these ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fx90VadXSXA.html
snap toggles and toggle bolts can trap and cut wires because of the U shaped metal section, these are much better ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mCt7_j8n-Yw.html
That's exactly what it is copied from !! its a very old method. But the bend in the plastic back bends the plasterboard and warps it after its been there for a week! I use these, much better. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mCt7_j8n-Yw.html
@@markhowe5539 Cheers, those Bullfix Plasterboard fixings look much better design wise and durability longevity wise. I'll be hanging up expensive heavy duty 6kg on wall speakers so I'll be going with the Bullfix Plasterboard fixings for peace of mind it won't bend warp the plasterboard.
Wish you put weights on it to show the failing forces required. Do that against all the others in a controlled setting. Would love that video. Keep up the great work
Not only will you have a large hole in the wall but you'll also lose the large curved plastic end if you remove the object you are hanging . Also it's VERY EXPENSIVE.
Looking at this I can do the same thing with a pice of timber with two holes, a bit of string and some drywall screws, it's been well thought out though.
I regularly patch repair plaster board ceilings using a timber batten and fixing original cut out back. Makes sense I could do this on a stud wall and create fixings where required. Would need some easy fill to cover up though 👍 will definately give these fixings a go.
The strength of these fixings are down to two key factors: a) The ability to pull the back part through the plasterboard; b) How well the central screw resists pulling out from the plastic bit. The latter could be impaired by overtightening the screw and thus damaging the plastic.
If mounting the Plastic Banana behind how would you get another screw in place such as for a floating shelf hanger with 4 holes in close proximity, should have waited to the end as 10.35 you answered it !
In the US we have "Snaptoggle" BA from Toggler. The heavy duty version 3/16" can hold up to 238lbs in 1/2" drywall and up to 802lbs in concrete block. They are easier to install and reusable. No need for 2 holding screws and a string like this design. Maybe a comparison between this two anchors would be very interesting. Cheers
I live in a new build in Manchester and Literally every wall is plaster board 🤦🏼♀️ I want to put my 55inch tv up on the wall but I didn’t think there was an way the plaster cud support it. Only clicked 5 minutes ago that I shud check to see if u have a video on it 😂😂 ordering some of these now! Thanks! X
@@CharlieDIYte thanks Charlie, I recon I have one knocking around somewhere. My dad was a carpenter/joiner his entire life (14-80) and I inherited all his tools when he passed a few years back. Good job he spent my childhood teaching me how to use them! X
Hi Charlie and people around. I got a question. What would be the best fixing for shelves that are rated for 10kg? They're all floating shelves, so no L brackets. I'm considering these, but they're quite overkill for what I'm fixing, despite guaranteeing a very secure fixing to the wall.
It's as good an option as you're likely to find. Depending on the thickness of your wall you might have to trim down that circular plug with a junior hacksaw - as I did when I used one of these in my son's Ikea flooding shelf, which is basically the thickness of hardboard.
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@@martingalli2786 Hi Martin. The UX8 or Duopower 8x40 would work well as long as you got it to open up well behind the plasterboard. To be sure though the wall anchor would probably be safest.
Hello Charlie, Im thinking of putting an 11kg mirror on a stud all. I have radiator plastic pipes just behind this also. They should be slightly set back as it used to be an alcove in hall when we moved in. =The builders ran the radiator pipes in alcove then covered with Drywall. Its a bit of a risk but I really want this mirror there. Can you recommend the fixings and can I get away with short screws so they have less chance of piercing the tubes behind? Thanks if you get a chance to answer. Ill keep and eye out on your Chanel.
Hi Charlie, would it be possible to fix a tv bracket like the person hanging off one in the pic in this video, with corefix fixings instead? I have dot and dab plaster board on thermalite (15mm gap). Thanks in advance.
That was my logic also until I saw this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lHb-Tcvkn7M.html clearly showing this anchor performing better when at a 90° angle to the load.
Hi buddy, thanks for the sub. 🙏 No I haven't. Slightly gutted I didn't know about these! Also, did you see my new update video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html
@@CharlieDIYte I did-most informative, but as I commented here thought I’d wait :) I used the duo-powers a lot, but then switched to Tox Decos, as effective IMHO, cheaper, and less incidence of over-spin under torque (which is easy to think hasn’t happened using the Duos-rendering them pretty much useless).
Love the banter guys! Thing is, this is for heavy stuff, and whatever heavy duty fixing you use you're going to have reasonably large holes to fill. Just get it in the right place first time and get her to sign a document in writing evidencing that she fully agreed with the position before you drilled 🤣
Looks brilliant. Just had a radiator pulled off a wall by a two year old because it was only fixed to the plasterboard with two brackets, each bracket secured by two screws going into expanding rawlplug type things. Had it had these it would never have come away!
Hi Charlie. ..You may find the load testing videos including GEEFIX testing for Shear, Tensile and Cantilever loads now at our website www.bullfix.co.uk It is pretty strong, but believe it or not, its weaker in 15mm plasterboard than 12.5mm plasterboard. You can see a quick performance Chart which you will also find interesting. The downside is that GEEFIX show all over the internet a photoshopped image of a man sitting on a shelf, look closely and you will see no screws in the brackets or NO bend in the shelf(many comments from observers on RU-vid have noticed this) Claims of 270 Kilos at their website is vastly exaggerated, proof or testing Geefix at the Bullfix website proves otherwise .
Mark, d'you fancy sending me some of those to try out? I'm planning a major plasterboard fixing video update later in the year. Drop me an email at charliediyte@gmail.com of you're interested 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte yes I can send you some to try , email me at : mark.howe@bullfix.co.uk with your address and I will send you a selection of our packs.. many thanks Charlie !
Charlie have you never heard or the thorsmann plaster board spring toggle fixing. I am a professional installer in an A/V capacity and we hang 25-30 kilo speakers out of two of them. There expensive at around 80p each they come in a box of 25. You can use them in single double or triple plaster boards
Thanks for this Philip. Is this the one you mean, in operation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NsICJ2U0YfU.html That is a bit impressive!
Charlie DIYte Yes Charlie that’s the only. They come in 2 sizes. We always use the larger ones. Drill a 13 mill hole then you push the toggle true the hole it will open and pull tight with the spring. job done. Your left with the bolt and the head of the toggle.
Excellent review Charlie. I like your methodical approach to demonstration and you have built a useful body of work of reference for professional and DIY alike. These plastic doohickeys look just the job for plasterboard walls with a cavity (as opposed to dot and dab) and the price while high (which judging by some of the comments from professionals may put them off), should not deter the DIY who just wants an effective job completed confidently and can relish in the perspective of not having to find and then pay a professional to do it. If I had these sorts of walls I would use them.
I swear half the problems people have is using electric screwdrivers. Even if you set the clutch on them you cant feel how tight stuff is. Use a screwdriver!!!!
Which is why I bought the curtain fitter who works for us a Stanley ratchet screwdriver because he would only ever use his impact driver and needed to be more gentle on occasions!
Hi Charlie, I'm looking to fit a wall anchor in plasterboard that withstand 70-90kg. I want to install a anchor poibt for a gym suspension device or gymnastic rings in my flat. What would be the best way to install this?
Sounds more like yer putting it in a plasterboard ceiling... if so, you need to find where the plasterboard is fixed to the joists... a small neo magnet run over the ceiling will pinpoint screws / nails fixing the plasterboard. Find a row of them in a straight line 6" to 8" apart & you have found the joist direction... (16" apart is the gap BETWEEN adjacent joists) mark the positions ... then drill pilots holes & use hex headed lag bolts to screw into the timber. The fixings in the video whilst being strong are only as strong as the plasterboard sheet itself & personally I wouldnt be surprised if the whole sheet came down if u simply fixed into the plasterboard-only with them.... find the joists... 😎👍☘
Peter Fitzpatrick thanks for the comment, I should have said that I live in a new build flat in the UK and I believe the joists are those flimsy metal types. So, I'm not sure I can secure to those either. I think my o ly option is putting ply board attached to the wall or ceiling, or cutting in some bird behind the plasterboard?
You can. You'd want to use Easi-Fill as discussed here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6Omsv5-NN9k.html You might need to gradually build it up but if you make a fairly stiff mix it'll fill it pretty efficiently.
This represents a technique I've used for 40 plus years, just using a 20mm hole and a 19mm wide strip of wood with my own reusable cord. Most often used in a ceiling next to a hole for light cable and needing support sufficient for the weight of the lamp off the loop-in connection plate (screwed through to the wood piece). Heavier weights in the ceiling? I make a bigger hole, up to 104 mm using a hole saw to pass a much wider/longer/thicker piece of wood through. Ideally to pass cross-wise between joists, or parallel to them if a longer more supportive fixing is required. After fixing, I can replace the cut piece from using the holesaw, fix it to the wood via one screw through the centre hole and fill the gap and screw position and smooth down. Done properly - minimum fuss and mess, maximum load bearing strength and simplest to install. Can also be used on walls but wall gap, especially when insulated can present some (simply resolved) problems. Plasterboard (even 9 mm) is pretty damned strong strong when a load is distributed on it properly. The larger the distribution distance, the greater the potential load clearly. The beauty of these nylon jobs is there is little danger of them splitting when multiple screws are used - not so true for wood pieces. I'd keep some of these in my toolbox for those "quick fix" occasions. But, there is nothing like chopping out (neatly) a rectangle of plasterboard between joist centres, rebating the joists either side and fitting a good sized board in between them, then refitting the cut plasterboard and filling/making good. Easy on a painted plaster wall, not so easy when the wall is papered!
Hi Bob - thanks for this. I've also applied this technique in the past but was too dumb to think about the cord!! You've done some top jobs this way, by the sound of it. The splitting is the main issue as you say and I was seriously impressed with how well the nylon took the self tapped screws.
Yep, me too. That said, this saved the day on a job in the southern Hebrides last year when the lath and plaster basically crumbled away where we were fixing up a pelmet. We put one of these in, grip filled the gap, made good the next morning with Easi-Fill, and it was a rock solid fitting.
Another downside is you screw into plastic. After a 1-2 un/screwings it's broken. Have you tried the fischer drywall fixing that look like large screws?
These haven't taken off though. None of the large DIY stores sell them. I think they're just took expensive, if the seller could reduce his profit then he'd get massive volume and help them gain traction in the market
Fair point. They are something you keep in your tool box for certain jobs. For most jobs a 8x40 Fischer Duopower will suffice. Here's my recent update vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jdu9RId7m90.html
These will NOT work on our 1985 house with dab and dot PB walls. I've tried everything over the last 39 years. The gap between the plasterboard and thermalite blocks is maybe 10mm and it would be impossible to slide the large fixing in. Worst case is you hit a dab of hard plasterboard adhesive, then it's impossible to use anything except a drilled plug. However the plugs work well in the solid adhesive. I only use Fischer plugs, Duo are good. The critical issue is a long plug to secure into the blockwork (which fractures easily). Fischer UX 10x60 work well with a 100 x 7.5mm concrete screw that extends beyond the plug into the block. I drill undersized at 9.5mm for a firmer fit, just deep enough for the plug which allows the concrete screw to bite into the block. So these fittings are best for hollow walls, not dab and dot walls. I find best practice is to spread the load and use mechanical advantage (lever). I screwed a block of wood 70mm x 400mm to the wall fixed with 4 screws on the top edge. Seven coat hooks screw to the wood. The wall screws provide 40mm of turning moment (lever) above the hooks which have a lesser turning movement. This significantly reduces the pull out force of a coat hanger screwed to individual plugs - I did that in the 80s and they all pulled out as the years went bye. The wooden bracket is strong after 10 years with zero flex or wobble. Ditto for twin wall shelving, the highest screw has tremendous mechanical advantage for a bracket 400mm lower. I highly recommend twin wall for shelving on plasterboard.
For places where the plastic front side plug does not show (like with the TV) it's great but when in sight it's awful. But I think it's a great product when it comes to strength over beauty I'l have a look if they sell it in the DIY shops overhere . Thanks for sharing
I still think it's the strongest I've used. Only issue is if you've got narrow curtain brackets for example, the width of the circular core showing around the edge of the bracket.
These got us out of jail on a tricky job in the Southern Hebrides a couple of weeks ago. If you can't fix into the brick behind, you'll not find many fixings stronger than these 👍🏻
I just hang stuff were there is wood struts. Good idea though. If I ever have enough money I will build a house were every internal wall is concrete block
The biggest issue with this huge anchor is if you had to have 2 fixings close to each other (which is to be honest the most common case), as the anchors behind the plaster would overlap.
The strongest fixing is a screw directly into the studs, or cut in & fit a solid batten to take a screw. Nothing else will do for fixing heavy items, e.g. a sink, thank you. Nice idea, but costly @ £1 each (trade pack), AND the outside bit sticks out by 1mm or so, plus screw heads. And the pbd must be adequately secured to the studs, a screw every 300mm, 200 if in doubt. Nice vid, but Geefix? No thanks.
My house is all lath and plaster, I would love to see a videos of how this fixing could be used. I’m constantly having to refix our radiators due to the fixings failing.
Thanks. That looks much preferable to wall anchors, much more secure. By the way, I was confused halfway, up until you "fixed" the shelf bracket. Over here in the States, "fix" usually means "repair." For what you were demonstrating we would say, "attach, or "install." I hope I can find GeeFix on Amazon or at Home Depot. I have a lot of "fixing" to do.
