I bought my car for $2200, and put about $5k into it (excluding tires, which are like $1k per set), and I have a car that's extremely fun to drive on course, can handle track days, and can kick the crap out of almost any regional CAM class. As long as you're willing to put in the man hours, you can easily make these cars fast on a very slim budget. Also, my old car was a 1998 V6 convertible with original suspension (including a broken front spring...), and I still managed to autocross it. Even won a couple of region CAM classes.
I've been fortunate to instruct in all sorts of Mustangs that, on paper, would never be considered good autocross cars. But, with the right driving fundamentals and some targeted mods, they run good times. And, most importantly, their owners have a lot of fun. I once drove a bone-stock New Edge V6 to within 2 seconds of my time in CAM; that's not bad for a car with no mods. I remember your V6 videos!
I was in Episode 1 for a little bit, right at the end. Most of my involvement was suggesting changes to the recipe for the build and figuring out possible suspension settings. It was a great opportunity to work with some awesome people!
I'm probably really late to the party, but I'm looking to build a (rather stupid) combination for street/ track day usage. I am not a "big power" guy (I would rather ring the neck of a slower combination, as I find it to be more fun, and better match my skill level- see also "get himself into trouble with the loud pedal early and often). My idea is to use a SN95 chassis, 2.5 duratec (N/A- approx 190 wheel hp, similar torque), and NC miata 6 speed with 4:30 gears. In order for this combo to work the weight needs to be kept in check- (basing this on the transmission's capability- they've lived at the 300ft/lb range in 26-2700lb miatas so I'm guessing that a slightly heavier car with slightly shorter gearing would present a similar load on the gear set) I'm thinking that 3000lbs could be doable . What are the best weight to benefit chassis bracing upgrades for the sN95 that would allow the car to be as stiff as it needs to be without adding too much weight? I realize that this combination will likely be slow, but that's kinda the point- the typical Miata experience (high revving engine, good handling, low power) for a guy who flat out doesn't fit in one (I am 6'9"- so custom seating is required even in the mustang, but it seems to be the smallest chassis I can fit into with a helmet on lol).
You've got an interesting project planned! I'm also a big fan of lighter cars with smaller engines. You can see my IRS-swapped SN95 V6 and my lightweight 1993 2.3L Mustang projects in my playlists ("Mustang ST" & "Apocalypso"). I can't speak to your engine and transmission combo because I don't have any experience with that setup. But it's worth mentioning that a 99-04 SN95 V6 comes with 190 hp. The average weight is 3,075 lbs. It's relatively easy to take 150 lbs. out of those cars. If you check out my "Mustang ST" playlist, there are videos about chassis bracing & weight reduction. My "CAM-T Diet" videos show more aggressive SN95 weight reduction mods. I've also taken 300 lbs. out of my 2.3L Fox Body (much of that weight is free or inexpensive); the weight reduction recipe would be similar for an SN95 Mustang. All of my weight reduction videos provide accurate weights for the parts that came off and went on my cars. You can get a lot of weight out of these cars if you're willing to get creative and aggressive. I only use my cars for autocross, so my approach to chassis bracing is a little different than what you would want for a track car. A roll cage puts a lot of weight where I don't want it. Because the risk of rolling a car is extremely low at an autocross event, I use bracing that stiffens up the chassis while (mostly) adding weight where I want it: A Stifflers lower chassis brace & FIT System, Steeda strut tower brace & rear shock tower brace. Those mods add approximately 65 lbs., but much of that weight is low and in the center of the car. I always think about weight balance in addition to weight reduction. You probably want to put a roll cage in a track car; you might not need the full FIT System in a car with a full roll cage. If you have any more questions about SN95 weight reduction mods or chassis bracing, please ask. I'm always happy to help.
I've ran those same KYB shocks on my mustang for probably 250+ autocross runs and 70,000+ street miles (on some of the worst roads in the country), and they are just finally starting to wear out. so, overall no complaints! are there better shocks out there? absolutely! are the KYB's still a great value? also absolutely!
We tried to use a set of OEM convertible subframe connectors that I had in storage, but they had some bends that weren't from the factory and didn't fit.
I won't say subframe connectors are required, but I will say they make a very noticeable improvement in chassis stiffness. If your class allows them they are worth the money.
I agree. In SCCA Categories/classes that allow subframe connectors, they are a great upgrade. When I recruit novices, many say that they "can't" autocross their cars because they don't have subframe connectors. I want to make sure people know that they should still give autocross a try even if they don't have subframe connectors installed on their cars.
Good stuff! Adjustable struts make a world of difference. I went with the agx struts and want to upgrade my gas a just shocks to them as well. We had an autocross event last weekend and there will be a video up next Friday.
YeeeUUUUP , asked a friend who has a tricked out 94-98 and that theeee EXACT answer he gave me.... buy the full maximum motorsport "kit". looked it up and its well over $10,000 just to do a few 45 sec laps... NOPE ! FUUUUCK THAT ....! i'll throw some decent coilovers on with a panhard bar and some good tires and go have some fun and slowly build as i need for my needs.
I've read people say if you put a panhard bar on it and keep both the upper control arms you'll get even worse binding than not. I'm no expert though. I was going to do just slap a panhard bar on it with some other goodies too, until this guy got me more educated and inspired to research more.
If you watch my "Budget Autocross" playlist, you'll see some simple mods that will make the car much better for autocross. Some of the parts have been discontinued, but there are different options available today. A set of adjustable shocks and struts (perhaps a set that can be converted to coil-overs later, if you want) and a larger rear sway bar (size varies by model of Mustang) will make a noticeable difference in how your car performs out on course.
I remember that video and seeing you in it. I don't remember him using the cheap control arms with 2 piece bushings, though. Would you say those would be ok for the torque boxes of a daily driver that doesn't get much track heat or really hard bumps? My V6 Mustang isn't going to see a track until it gets a new engine and transmission which is at least a couple years off, but I'd like to improve what I can until then on its limited budget while it gets driven every other day otherwise. Right now due to past experience with the Fox suspension, I'm scared to come anywhere near a limit on an on ramp to the interstate, whereas in my slightly modded humble Corolla, I can really get on it to enter. It feels so ironic I'm able to do it in the grocery getting "beater" but not what is supposed to be my "sports" car.
The SR Performance rear control arm kit is similar to other entry-level kits on the market. These kits are very popular because they do make the car feel better for daily driving. Under normal driving conditions, I don't think you'll have an issue with torque box damage. Because the bushings are the biggest weak link in entry-level control arms, I would suggest going with an entry-level rear control arm kit that comes with grease fittings. JEGS makes an entry-level rear control arm kit for 79-04 Mustangs (Part Number 64500) that costs about $165. Those arms have grease fittings. I would make sure they are shipped with grease in them. If not, use some Green Grease to lube the bushings before you install them. Make sure you read the fine print in the instructions about the bushing sleeves for 79-98 and 99-04 Mustangs.
