Thanks for this quick and useful overview of what the N80 is and does! Even for nonspecialists like me the Bentley vid is well worth watching at least through its full, animated description of what the entire evap system does. When they got to the part about how the N80 is _pulsed_ to control how much recovered vapor is routed back to contribute to combustion, I realized why your vid included a "not recommended as a test" label at the point when you mention just hitting the N80 with 12-V dc to listen for clicks.
About to be a lot of people watching this video again. 17 GTI, just got the recall noticed. Super informative video! Might be able to take care of this myself.
Your advice was awesome. After I topped off my gas tank, I couldn't get my car to start. It kept coughing..... Had you not mentioned "don't top off your fuel tank..." at the end of the video, I would have never made the connection.
Well that explains why my car is hard to start after getting fuel, mine was stuck open! Replaced it and no more CEL and it starts right up after fueling.
Hey Robert, just curious, do you remember what your CEL was? I'm trying to chase down a P0456 and I'm thinking about replacing this part. Just wanted to see if yours was the same. Thanks.
I had a P0171: System Too Lean (Bank 1) that I had been chasing for 3 months and after spending close to $445 on various parts, the problem was with this purge valve that fixed the loss of power and lean code issues I was having...
You probably dont care at all but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Jake Issac Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Wonderful video. However, the canister does not have CHARCOAL in it. It has ACTIVATED CARBON which is completely different from CHARCOAL. Instead of filtering the fumes like charcoal would, the "activated" carbon ADSORBS the fumes (grabs the molecules and holds them onto the surface) of the carbon until there is room inside the fuel tank for the gas fumes. It is similar to magic but the bottom line is, it prevents the fumes from escaping to the atmosphere. WARNING: When you fill your gas tank, do NOT keep clicking the pump to try to fill the fuel filler neck all the way to the top. You are risking getting too much liquid fuel in the system and if you saturate the "activated" carbon, you "de-activate" it. In other words you have killed it. Your CEL will come on and you will have to buy a new and very expensive carbon canister. How do I know this? I retired from many years working as a production supervisor at a plant which makes this activated carbon.
Very helpful. I have a P0441 code (Incorrect purge flow) on a B5 A4 and was reading from a lot of sources that it could be the canister. I'm happier knowing about this part as one of these from bosch is about $40 as opposed to a $200+ Canister
Sup Charles...had a walnut shell cleaning which helped a lot with improved power...replaced a water pump on the 2013 CC which solved a bad leak.....now im getting a lean code...I cleaned the mass flow sensor ...the code came back on it was 2177 Im thinking from watching this vid its the purge valve...great breakdown I will get one today and let cha know!
I know this video is kinda old but if you are here for the P0456 small leak code. It is going to be your N80 purge valve its around $30 to $90. Usually Bosch is the best way to go. Dealership here in Texas charges about $400 w/tax. Have had this valve changed twice in 5yrs ownership at 46,xxx & now at 60,xxx.
I got a P0456 on my 2010 Audi Q5 replaced my gascap and the P0456 is back I just ordered a purge valve praying that this fixes it because I really don't want to hunt after the canister or the detection pump hoping that its the valve
Hey back again. Just went outside and checked the wiring connection to the purge valve and bang its working correctly. Loose connection. Thank you for that comment you said about wiring in this video made me check it again to be sure.😁👍👍
Just had mine replace on my 2019 Jetta with 24,000 miles. Strange thing is once it was replaced, along with a cracked line, it now runs better than it did when I first got it! Thinking that line was cracked from new. Pulling out in first the car has much more torque now. It was always just weird feeling starting out from a stop since it was new. Strange but it's much better now.
Thank you Charles! I watched this video a long time ago but my gti just started having a small evap leak and a system lean with up and down idle rpm and it brought me back here. Gonna replace my n80 and cross my fingers!
Had a one green check valve fail while checking the for boost leaks, that n80 valve would make a buzzing noise during 15psi boost leak check, best fix is to tune, and delete the problem entirely in states that don’t have smog checks. The fail points on modern cars are almost their demise when they are not discovered by the ECM, that valve being one especially when it comes to a fuel trim problem...
Thank You! I've been chasing a fuel rich/intermittent boost issue that was compounded by a bad temp sensor on my wife's MK1 TT for months now. It's one of those multiple problems manifesting with odd issues. I watched your video, took my N80 valve off in about 2 min gave it a sharp tap on the table and voila, gobs of powdery crap. I'm not sure if swapping it out will solve all the issues I'm having, but I'm confident the blockage is at least a compounding variable. Thanks again!
The Charles, had tried replacing almost everything when my golf 5 gti started cutting engine every 20 - 30 mins and failing to start then starting after 3+ hours of waiting. Replaced this N80 and its been running smooth. thanks again
so weird... a friend contacted me today on Facebook about his car problem.. his gas cap light kept coming on. he replaced his fuel cap with no luck. after searching around, i learned about this part. i told him to try it first, as its pretty cheap.
This video is a gold!! So much useful information is shared in such a short period of time! All is clear, gives nice recommendations and explains potential problems caused by the failed purge valve. I do get several errors from the OBD tool, which I am leaned to connected with this failed part. Will give it DIY try. Thank you so much for the video, @HumbleMechanic!
I had P0441 "incorrect flow" INTERMITENT :) No check engine lights. There was also underboost P0299, both solved with changing the purge valve - 06H906517AA. Car is much smoother, cold idles are not rough, no missfires, and the car does not stink like hell started cold like it was before.
I`m currently doing some work on a 2002 Passat GLS 1.8T. One of the complaints is the CEL is illuminated. Bit of back story; I worked on this car a couple months ago with the same "EVAP Very Small Leak" DTC. Spent way to much time diagnosing it and decided to let another friends shop who specializes in VW`s have a crack at it. They also couldn`t keep the CEL off, it would always turn back on. Recently the car was brought back for another go and I decided to check the Purge Valve. We verified that the solenoid is functioning. I applied 20" of vacuum and in 10 Min. the vacuum had dropped 10". I wasn`t sure if this was out of spec. Luckily my neighbor just happens to also have a B5. I performed the same test on his N80 Valve and in the same 10 min. vacuum only dropped 2". His car doesn`t have any DTC`s. I`m replacing the N80 tomorrow with a new OEM one. I`ll post an update as to whether the DTC comes back.
Could this cause a rough idle, and maybe throw a faulty throttle body code? I’ve had a shop try and do a relearn but it’s unable to do a throttle body relearn with a cel. Have already replaced throttle body.
I'm pretty sure the purge valve on my MK6 GTI is going out. I hear a ticking, the same one from a Deutsche Auto Parts video. But, I have no engine light.
Thanks for this video, huge help understanding exactly what I'm looking at - for anyone interested my code started as P0171 (system lean) and after weeks of chasing seemingly non existent vacuum leaks the code evolved into a P0441 (incorrect purge flow)
We have experienced on a 2005 Boxster 987 We cannot add fuel to the car, without any errors shown, I believe this is the same many issue have but don’t understand what’s causing it. We are ordering and replacing the part. We will update going forward 12/14/22
My mk7.5 Golf R was completely fine. I filled up my fuel tank and got on the highway and cruised for an hour. I came to a red light. Put the clutch in and it began revving itself between 1500 and 2500 rpm non stop. Throwing all kinds of warnings. So I shut it off and now I am diagnosing the problem. I have a MAP fault. An Evap fault. And the car is running very rich and you can smell raw fuel. I’m going to test the Evap purge valve and inspect the charcoal fuel canister
very informative, working on a 2007 a4...looked at the famous n80 valve but the culprit ended up being the leak detection pump...when testing between terminals 1 and 2 there was no continuity. thanks!
So what we really want is for the N80 to fail just right lol (clogged and like 2-5%stuck open). Slightly better than crimping the vacuum line (not really advised). Then no overly rich/lean issues. I think i lucked out. Only needed to replace once so far (MKV 140k). Thank you Deutsche auto parts for me parts recently. killed the P0171 :). Just tracking down the P0089, which i haven't seen after I cleared the code and being very careful with seafoam. Not before new plugs and dare i say NGK ignition coils (pleasantly suprised). Small doses (seafoam) and lots of patience 3-times over two days. That code (P0089) loves uphill driving and long drives along the beach with intake air temps over 130. Then it leaves you for 8 months and comes back all angry. Meh.
Hi mate thanks for the video I’ve changed my Evap purge valve and my car ran amazing better than it has for a year for about 2 weeks and then the engine light and same code is up I was wondering is the next best thing to do change the charcoal canister and if that doesn’t work what is the next thing to change
I'm definitely a culprit of topping off my fuel and sure enough have to have the evap changed as it has failed. Can't complain as I have 192K on my 2016 Golf.
I'm just about a minute and a half into this video and you made me feel crazy old! LOL! you mentioned the "Way Old 1551" ! When I was a tech at VW, that was our scan tool. Ha Ha Ha! I always like your videos. Thanks for making them. Since I've been out of the tech game since 2000, you help me with repairs I do at home. Cheers!
Could a secondary injection fault code be because of this? It also says incorrect air flow on the code. I dont have a fancy scanner to tell where exactly the problem is.
Nice 1, Charles! Just had a rough idling/stalling 1.4 Mpi AUD engine. Scan brought up p1426 evap purge valve open circuit. Found electric connector unplugged there. Strange world! A lot better now, just monitoring a p0141 O2 bank1 sensor 2 heater circuit malfunction.
There isn't a diaphram in this device. It's a solenoid operated valve. When I was replacing the fuel injectors, I apparently broke some carbon deposits loose in the device or in the lines. These small bits prevented the valve from seating and caused the computer to report an evap leak (P0455). After cleaning the valve with some choke cleaner, and cycling the solenoid a few times with a 12v supply, the valve started working normaly. You can test if the valve is leaking just by blowing thru the tube on the end by the electrical connector. If it leaks you can blow through it. When it's working OK you can't.
I keep having issues with my MK7 Jetta. Taking it back to dealer for the 3rd time. First noticeable symptom for me is that my remote start won't work. CEL takes a few days to come on. I've used my VAGCOM to clear it a couple of time because I don't have time to have dealership deal with it, under warranty thankfully. But this is getting quite annoying. The new valve seems to have molded plastic tubes rather than rubber clamped tubing. I will have to ask them to check the charcoal canister this time around.
2 questions... Is there any way to clean this valve... lets say with carburetor cleaner for example ??? If you look inside it has something like a screw... what does this "screw" do ???
Good Day, as always thanks for the awesome content. Quick question. I own a 2013 VW Touareg TDiV6 180Kw. For some time now only in warm weather days the car has extremely rough idle on cold start. It lasts for about 30 seconds and then all is good. It really only happen randomly. In winter i never have the issue. Does diesel vehicles also have the N80 evap purge?
Hi Charles from Australia. If you had a faulty purge valve that is stuck open and you have over filled your tank, could this create a situation where liquid fuel could be sucked into the manifold and then create an oil dilution situation as to excess fuel being drawn into the combustion chamber? Cheers Jeremy
Hi Charles Thanks for the great videos, in this video you mentioned a VW scan tool or a High end scan tool, I have been struggling to figure out which diagnostic tool wss best to used and was hoping you would be able to help me out getting the best one, thanks in advance
This is probably what happened with my 2019 sq5. After filling gas it wouldn't start and the only way it would stay on is for me to throttle it at a certain rpm. Also my cars performance may have been compromised but I'm not 100% sure. However, the check engine light and the car not starting properly went away on its own at the end of my time with the car. Very strange
Just getting p1425 which seems electric but thinking if I should just replace whole thing. Gas gauge is reading empty so not sure if its correlated or not. Great video though! (B5s4)
Could this also cause a back up of fuel vapour, in effect filling the charcoal canister with fuel and in turn give you a fuel leak from an over flow pipe off the charcoal canister?
@@Ponskippa No worries for the late reply. I had a right mess about about with this problem. In the end, I put it down to the new E10 fuel affecting the internals of the fuel filter. Changed that (after changing the charcoal cannister too) and switched to E5 (as recommended for my Audi). Been good since.
@@AutoFlexUK I’ve been using mostly “no ethanol” fuel in my VW GTI and mine failed. I found online that the 2015 GTIs had a recall over a part called a suction pump inside of the gas tank that fails and leads to problems with evap and purge valve. Along with misfires. My car was returned to me yesterday and i still am having problems. Taking it back today. What a headache.
@@Ponskippa I had a load of problems at once. Noisy tappets, noisy rear chain, misfire at 5000rpm. Cat fault, o2 sensor faults. Ended up taking the head off, getting it skimmed etc, renewed all the tappets and rear chain unit, new haed gasket obviously, new cat and new o2 sensors. Then it developed a problem with fueling, when they introduced E10, kept coming up with "cat threshold" code and started leaking fuel from the overflow on the charcoal cannister. So I figured that the charcoal cannister being full of fuel, that the N80 valve was pulling through fuel, not just vapour. Changed the charcoal cannister, which was drenched with fuel, but it kept happening, leaking out and fault code kept coming back. Did a bit of digging on E10 and found out the effects it has on plastics, rubbers and aluminium. So I worked out that the one thing that I hadn't thought of, because I only changed it a few months before, was the fuel filter. It's the one with 4 pipes on it, for the evap system. So it must of warped the inside of the filter and was pulling fuel in too much. Anyway, I changed the filter, and the cat again, went over to E5 Super Unleaded and it cured the problem. Then about 2 months later, a load of vac pipes under the manifold started splitting and leaking air, so had to short all that out too. Lol.
This is probably what happened with my 2019 sq5. After filling gas it wouldn't start and the only way it would stay on is for me to throttle it at a certain rpm. Also my cars performance may have been compromised but I'm not 100% sure
Is this why everytime I fill my car I have trouble starting my car? I have to pump the gas to get the car to start so is this an indication of a bad evap?
Yes, I just replaced my purge valve after my car was having trouble starting after getting gas and it works perfectly fine now! I had the same issue as you are having and this fixed it I have a 2012 Jetta
This part failed on my VW CC 2.0TSI 2009. The part for my car came connected to other tubes and technically required removal of the intake manifold. However this was NOT required. I was able to maneuver behind the manifold to replace the part using screw drivers and such. Just in case anyone else has this kind of car...
Replaced it after getting the Evap System Check Engine Light; everything was fine for about 50 km (city driving), after which the CEL was back for the same reason What should I focus on next? Car is a VW Golf 5 GTI Edition 30 (Engine Code BYD)
This was helpful, my 2014 Jetta is having this issue, but will it also cause the car not to start for about 30 at a time randomly? Or could that be another issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Charles, what's the most you think a dealer should get away with for replacing this part? Looks like a $25 part in most places, and easy to get to (2011 Jetta SE). Your opinion is appreciated.
Thank you for the video. My car would have a hard time starting after I filled it up and had no codes. Today I replaced the purge valve. Right after, I took the car for a test drive and notice my car was idling too low when in drive at a stop light. Can you think why this is happening? Thank you
Thank you I’ve been chasing faults on faults on faults on a 2014 Jetta running multiple codes. System rich at idle, small evap leak, high purge flow. Slow leak on evap system. Been checking all evap lines & vacuum lines couldn’t find any leaks. Ran tests on the O2 sensors for the system rich issue checked out good. Cleaned the MAF sensor still having issues of the car being rich or even stalling changed the gas cap still nothing. I was starting to run out of ideas on what it could be and this could be the only logical option now of all my issues. So I’m a give this a try and hope to god it solves all my problems....
Appreciate this is was posted 6 years ago but very applicable now. I have 2011 Fabia TSI that has a fault when at running temperature in "coughs" intermittently at from about 1200 rpm in 4th and 5th gear, and has produced no fault codes. I have a general engine analyser that is showing 630psi on the fuel rail and goes up to in excess of 1500psi when driving. I can't get hold of what the fuel rail pressure should be. I currently working through the fuel system cleaning and checking sensors. I've just disconnected this sensor and there's no fault code shown. Any ideas, and what the fuel rail pressure should be? Thanks for the video, it's good so I've subscribed.
My GTI do the same. Exhaust doesn’t sound constantly bop bop bop It has fluctuations. And when you are sit or touch the engine you can feel little movements like spasms
I had this happen on my rabbit and it unfortunately did damage to the fuel pump, purge valve, gas tank, and the charcoal canister. I never got a check engine light, I found out because every time I went to fuel up it would only pump a half gallon or so before foaming up the filler neck and shutting the fuel nozzle off. Do you have any recommendation on checking the filler neck check valve to make sure it is open? I think this same issue may be happening on my mk5 Jetta now.
I have a 98 VW GTI VR6, I can't find the culprit of the P1426 code, I reaserched forums and keep going in circles. EVAP purge valve (n80), tank vent, cas cap. I've replaced all of these already to no avail. emission test results DTC P1426 Manufacturer controlled auxiliary emissions. Going to check wiring from purge valve to ECU continuity tomorrow! wish me luck :)
+Curtis Smith And I read online that it takes a drive cycle to clear p1426 as it reappears in the ECU if you don't do that. I could be wrong but that take time and is kinda weird so no telling if i fixed anything yet after replacing parts?
I have an A4 with an N80 I suspect may be causing me trouble. Symptoms include, when starting cold, the car dies within 2 seconds (almost like an immobilizer issue). If I leave the ignition on for 2-3 minutes the car will start and run okay until the engine has reached normal operating temp, at which time I start getting massive power loss, misfires and a fuel system measurement (implausible) code, but no evap or leak codes. Looking at VCDS, the fueling looks fine with all pressures good. The HPFP and LPFP were replaced around a year ago. The one thing that looks really bad is the "Lambda Regulation" but not necessarily the actual Lambda value. I clamped the hose to my N80 and the car starts fine but I havn't done a longer run as I don't know if it's safe to drive the car any distance with the evap line plugged. Am I barking up the wrong tree or could this indeed be an N80 fault?
I just had this part replaced on my '13 Jetta Treadline, are you saying it is not a good idea to fill the tank in any case like mine or just if you have a fault?
When I brought the car in for the 35K mile scheduled maintenance I was told that having the ECU flashed with the APR ECU stage I upgrade voided the warranty.
Hi,iv got a golf gti mk5,I’ve changed my N80 valve my charcoal canister but if I use my OEM petrol cap and drive a few miles and open the petrol cap I’ll get lots of blocked gases and a sound like the petrol tank has just expanded so iv got to drive with a universal smaller petrol cap to let the gases out,do you have any advice? Iv been told iv got to drop the talk to unblock the pipes that run along side the petrol talk as there blocked 🤷♂️
Bentley says that's normal. It supposedly should vary with idle speed. I'm not an expert, I just read that in the Bentley for Cabrio/Jetta/TDI 90s to 2000
Any videos of replacing The Whole evap n80 purge valve with factory lines to the intake without removal of intake and cutting it into Existing lines 2011 mk6 gti
We have a 2019 VW Atlas SE V6. The charcoal canister has failed 5 times thus far. Frequency of failure has increased the last several times. Last two failures have occurred in under 2 months and have affected the entire fuel system, requiring replacement of fuel lines and tank. Yes, this vehicle is currently in its 3rd gas tank. The original and 2 replacements. VW cannot find any faults when the car shows signs of canister failure. Only visual inspection reveals the canister is bad. They are unable to find the root cause of the continuous failure. My question, is there a way to find out why or what keeps causing the charcoal canister to fail? Or, are there more common causes of failures that VW is overlooking? We have been told that it’s a “known issue” with the atlas, but I can’t find anything online as reference. User error has been ruled out. It was not caused by overfilling or otherwise. Any suggestions…
Hi mate!! Glad to see this... I have 2011 Tiguan and now it has hell lots of problem. Intake manifold was changed but still the engine light is on. Finally the dealer wants to change the salonoid sensor valve and they are charging $596 to do this saying there is no communication between the intake manifold and sensor valve. I have driven with engine light on for one week now as dealer put my appointment after 3 weeks for the sensor valve change. I felt its too expensive to repair and I am quite confuse to take it to Vw for repairs though I have booked it or to the other mechanics. Vw dealer is saying they have genuine system to diagnosis and find the fault. My question is can it be repaired outside and will it be repaired. It still shows p2015 code. Very unhappy times. Dealer is charging me $220 for parts and rest for Labour.
