Thanks, your the 1st person out of hundreds that actually show how the linkage is hooked up and that is what thousands of people asked. Even though people asked the replies they get besides those jerks are people explaining without a single picture, using terms that are not the real description, they explain as if they are talking to someone who would not need to ask because they already know. It's amazing how many thousands of people chime in to explain, I assume to let everyone know they are smart. When in fact they may understand how to do it but they are so clueless as to how someone would communicate effectively so the people they are addressing will understand. Instead all people get is a person spewing out nonsense letting all know they really need to just stay off the keyboard.
yup My choke linkage came off, I put it back per how it looks on here, but still not right , was always sticking this guy said he rigs a choke cable, I might do that
Thanks so much I am 15 and new when it comes to working on mowers and I could not figure out the throttle linkage I looked all over the internet and you are the first person I found to go in detail so think you
Wow, I've been looking for a video like this since last summer. My buddy came over and took the carb and linkages apart and when he put it back together the throttle was all opposite. Fast was slow, slow was fast and then he moved away. I liked the way there was no governor, but I can tell its burning oil and wreckin the engine. At this point I'm just tryin to get the linkages in, but all the holes and arms and springs make it confusing. This video was a godsend, thank you so much. Great video and thanks a million!
They use that same carb on a 16.5hp and I suspect many a Briggs motor, your video was useful. Helping a widow at our church get her mower running again, so we don't have to bring our own mower over everytime we mow her yard.
This clip was a life saver! I was pulling off the carb for the first time on one of these engines & knew I should've taken a photo, but was in a rush and sure enough couldn't remember how the choke linkage went back together. It was a charity job,so I told my neighbour that I was going home to Google this, and your clip did the trick!
I just spent 2 hours getting extremely frustrated with my mower. THANK YOU for showing a detailed video on the Briggs Stratton linkages! Really helpful!
Just add me to the people who are thankful for you uploading this video. I looked at several videos about small engine chokes and Briggs & Stratton chokes and either they weren't working on my engine or they didn't go into enough detail. When I removeed my carburetor I didn't even notice the little hair thin spring that came unhooked from the carburetor. And when I went to put it back on, the little choke linkage with the long loop fell out and I didn't know how it went. So your video cleared me right up as to what goes where. Thanks very much.
Thank you for a GOOD explanation of the linkage...you confirmed what I thought was the correct way to connect it. Clearly you know what you are doing because you have done it many times before. I agree with your "it is NOT good to start the engine at wide open throttle!" That is the manufacturers way of guaranteeing someone will need to replace a motor sooner. 🙂
I know this is an older video, but I'm finally getting around to putting a motor back together I took apart a year ago. I couldn't remember how to hook up the throttle plate, governor spring, automatic choke etc. You did a real nice job showing it an explaining how it worked. Thanks...Just saved me a bunch of time!
Thank you for such a great video. You take the time to actually show how everything comes off and hooks back up, instead of already having it all torn down. I really appreciate how clearly you showed it all.
Thanks for this video clip. Your explaining not only how to hook linkages up but what they are for is the best I've seen yet. Looking forward to what you work on next.
Thanks for the video and responses to comments. Helped me realize a busted governor spring is what caused the engine to over-rev and break a valve retainer in the process.
I realize this was done a few years ago, but the close-up views of the linkages saved the day recently when I lost track of what went where. Still very relevant. Thanks!
One more thing...as far as I found, you were the only guy that went into detail (something I need to see) about the linkage & all about it! Thank you so much!!! Judie (you probably saved me about $200. fixing it all myself)
That idle choke looped spring/lever affair was off on my engine, just laying on the deck presumably not put on correctly previously(13hp Vertical 21 engine) - I looked up on here for how/where it goes and BINGO - you have sorted it for me. Thank you!
I had a problem with keeping it running and thanks to your video I saw that my governor spring was broken. A simple fix with some needle nose pliers and she purrs again! Thanks for the vid.
I am Glade I came a cross your video, choke linkage fell out when installing a new carburetor. and I just could not figure out where it went. Your video cleared that up. Great Job . Thanks
EXACTLY what the doctor ordered!!! I forgot to snap a photo of how the linkages hooked up, before dissembling, and your awesome video nailed it for me. Many Many Thanks!!!
This video shows the same steps & procedures for many of the 10hp and above B&S engines. Really helped me save some reassembly time with little hints & zoomed in parts geometry. Like the part of checking it out before the air filter and bracket assembly is installed.
Thanks for a very useful video, I am just reassembling mine and realised that I have not connected a spring for the governor so it tends to flap around and do absolutely zero, now I know what to look for and where to put it. Brilliant. Thanks very much. Keep up the good work.
Thank you i dont normally leave comments but i really do appreciate you taking the time to make this video i could not find anything on the governor linkage on how/ where they hooked up to and you showed exactly that :)
I hear ya! I've never used one of them. wow thats pretty good! might have to check into that for my next battery. i always bring mine inside so it won't freeze. thanks for watching!!!
Glad I found this video. Now I am a novice when it comes to this stuff but I have just successfully changed out a Kohler engine for a Briggs engine on my lawn tractor. The only thing that had me kinda snookered was hooking up the choke cable. Well after watching your video I find out that the engine has an automatic choke exactly like the one in your video. I going to keep the choke cable in place though just in case the automatic one goes tits up. He dude thank you very much for putting this video together.
thanks exactly what I needed to know cause I am going to put a shop cleaned carb. back on a riding mower for the first time. Your info helps me. Thanks again.
you should be able to bend the end to keep it from coming loose, you may have to adjust the governor after (simple to do, separate video). thanks for watching!
Thanks again! Will try bending the tab. I’m doing all this without taking the top cover off so it’s hard to reach in there. The choke seems to engage and work OK. Thanks again and I will check out some of your other videos
i struggled a bit with the very strong American accent(sorry) but the video was very clear and easy to understand. I know now that the fault on my recently purchased engine is that the throttle spring is hooked through the same hole as the rod. Thanks again for such a detailed video.
Very nice video. the close up of the linkage and where to set engine full speed / choke is very valuable info. I have been searching for this exact guide so i can set my cable. Thanks man.
+KENNETH CUSMANO Appreciate that! There's not much info out there on the linkages. Another tip, if your working on something thats new to you, take a picture of it before taking it apart, I do that myself on something i haven't worked on before. Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for a very informative video. I bought a riding mower that partially disassembled. This helped me get the carburetor and linkage hooked back up the way it's supposed to be.
Thanks for posting this video. I made the rookie mistake of pulling the carb without first noting how the linkage went back together and the choke actuator was a mystery.
thanks! check auto zone or advance auto, if its the standard battery that goes under the seat its 20 bucks, but if its a motorcycle/atv battery, its at least 30 bucks anywhere you go. i hate them little batteries! my mower uses that. For 7 years it didn't have a battery, i used my jumpstart each time! finally got some extra money and bought a battery from walmart, 2 years on it now and still doing good (surprised me!) thanks for watching!!!
12 year old video saves the day! I'm working on a Snapper RT8 with an 8hp B&S. The carb linkages look like this one. I didn't pay attention to how everything was connected when taking the carb off. When I tried to reassemble, I could not figure out how the choke linkage attached. This video helped me find out. Thank you so much!
yeah, it should never stick like that, what probably happened (done it several times myself!) is you may have bent the linkage that hooks in the carburetor and it could be binding up. its also best to put a drop of oil on each connection point, it keeps everything working free-er. hope this helps!
Nice video! Have a snapper riding mower with a 10 hp Briggs motor. Started up after sitting for four years and gas shot out of muffler! Getting carb rebuilt and noticed on the carb it was missing one of the two screws on carb butterfly! Now got to see where that went. Not sure why that was missing? Father bought it new in 2002. Your linkage part helped me out a lot! Oh yes, got to now give motor another oil change. That gas shooting from muffler is now in the oil.
yes. what's happening is the float in the carburetor is sticking open, so the carburetor/intake fills up with gas, and the motor just happens to be on the intake stroke with the intake valve open, it floods the cylinder and goes past the rings getting in the crankcase, mixed in with the oil. Hard to say exactly what it is, but it can be a number of things, like the float pin not working smooth, or a bad needle valve or a leaking float. very common problem and it causes major damage if run...
In mt case I took a picture first but as i was putting it together the choke lever bar thing popped off and i couldnt see in behind to see how it worked just my luck haha
I should have included that in this video too. What you do is take the throttle (same for both cables) where the Z bend is in it, stick the wire in the hole then let the wire slide in following the bend, then just clamp it down with clamp, before tightening, set control to full throttle then pull cable up so the linkage is set at full then tighten it down, so you get maximum RPM out of it. thanks for watching!!!
thanks you really helped me out, friend brought me an old mower he had already "worked on" 10 years ago, asked if I would get it going for him....omg...it's a disaster....missing parts, screws that he picked up and substituted for ones lost found the choke linkage just "hanging" on the frame I was totally lost as to were it went
This is a great video, I was having issues with a R92 John Deere, I picked it up and the carb and linkage was all but pieces I was banging my head against the wall trying to figure out how the damn auto choke worked! In my head it didn't make sense for the lever to be pushed all the way up to be engaged. And it seemed odd the choke link wasn't secured or locked in. Thanks for the close ups on the linkages.
While disassembling my carb. A little brass piece fell out/off. It is shaped similar to a top hat and is the size of a b-b. Do you know where it goes ?
I picked up an old Ariens, they said it won't start - so I cleaned the carb, new plug, new oil. New battery... but I couldn't figure out the linkages. I hooked up one that seemed to fit..... and it started ... with only one linkage hooked up. But this video is very helpful. I'll hook up the other one tomorrow. Thanks!!
VERY EASY! haha i don't recommend doing it, i blew 1 doing that, and haven't done it since. They usually don't last more than 10 minutes before they blow, then its usually impossible to fix, the one i did it in threw the rod out the crankcase, bent the camshaft, cracked a bearing, bust the oil sump. Now i finally got it fixed after paying to have the block welded and a new sump, cam and rod. If you want speed keep the governor and change the pulleys, but be sure to do other things first>>>
yes it is a 28, the model/type/code is gone on it (metal plate has been removed) but someone wrote on it what it was, and it says model 28, i thought it was a 31 at first then i remembered the 28 is the biggest single cylinder flathead briggs made. Briggs is known for misleading people on the HP ratings, to be honest with you there is no difference between this and a 12 horse, except maybe the carburetor. Now the reason for more HP in the 12 - 12.5 is the carburetor, the newer 2 piece apparently
produces 1/2 HP more than the old stock carb. Some say the 12 and 12.5 is different because most of 12.5 have a magnetron (electronic ignition) and most 12's has points/condensor. But briggs says its the carburetor that makes the difference. another good example is the popular model 31 OHV motors, same engine with ratings from 15 to 18 HP!!! thanks for watching!!!
Thanks for pointing out the poor design of the choke/full throttle setup. You are so right. They must have thought we are stupid and lazy to come up with that design. Too lazy or stupid to remember the proper way to start an engine, that is with the choke full on and the engine at low rpm, because the oil hasn't coated the engine parts yet and high rpm causes friction and excessive wear on the engine parts when there is no oil coating them. I'm going to do as you suggested and install a manual choke cable. That should extend the life of the engine quite a bit. Thanks. 👍
Yeah i don't like it at all. Its a good idea to have 2 controls in one, but its not good for the engine, my opinion. If they designed it so when you throttle down below idle it activated it so its idling when it starts it would be alright. Thanks for Watching!!!
Just got a 2005 12.5 BS engine. Had sat for over a year. Wouldn't start. Cleaned carb and fuel tank. Replaced fuel line and inline filter. Starts great but will no run unless choked. Any suggestion. Thanks have watched many of your vids. Very informative and easy to watch
I have a craftsman rider with a 17.5 hp 500cc silver edition engine. bought it used a few weeks ago and have mowed (attempted) 3 times. ran great at their house, got it home and not so much. keep getting gas in the crankcase especially if I ever move throttle past the mow position. I shut the gas valve off as soon as it's not running. sometimes it runs for a while just fine and then all the sudden acts up. currently changing oil for 3rd time as we speak. throttle linkage also appears to not function as it should but I'm at a loss as to where the problem is.
Daniel Schaffert Gas getting into the crankcase is do the needle and float not working properly, the float is either sinking or gas is getting past the needle and flooding it out, and it seeps pasts the piston/rings and gets into the oil. I would try replacing the float and the needle valve. That would be where I would start that usually fixes it. You could just try replacing the needle valve first. The plastic floats last a really long time. hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
Daniel Schaffert I had the same problem today and am excited to comment. While it's true the needle valve is failing and continues to fill carb throat, often there's a black elbow crankcase breather tube from the carburetor to the crankcase. That may be the path, as gas continues to fill overnight, is allowed to run back into the crankcase. (Safer than to the floor of your garage.) Try first a good a clean of the needle valve and seat (Q-tip rub) with cleaner. While there you can check bowl and gas for ANY foreign debris. I had found a tiny lacquer deposit ring on the rubber tip of the needle valve and a sandy feel of the bowl of lacquer deposits and little barely visible sandy bits. Replace that oil, let it set and check after a overnight sit pull the air filter to see if you see ANY gas showing up overnight. (I suspect you have bad gas polluting the system) and a good mower. Happy Mowing!
Dan Hitchcock It is a very common problem, and you are right alot of times you can get buy with just the cleaning the needle/seat. And always change oil after it happens. Sorry for the late reply, thanks for watching!!!
Man......I cannot tell you how useful this video is!! It got me out of a bind on a Swisher Trail mower I had. I have watched probably 25 of your videos so far. You do great work and the video editing is great!! Keep up the good work man. By the way.......I have a carb like this with a broken plastic fuel fitting on it? How do I fix that? Are they threaded in? Many thanks!
HAD to save this page, your CLOSE UP & GREAT quality camera was just what I will need when I begin working on my B&S 12.5 on the scrap Snapper rear engine riders I have, THANK YOU !
