Thank you James. This helped me put my mower back together. I made a rookie mistake and didn’t take pictures of the linkage before I took the carb off. Bless you.
Grett detailed video, I opened my 30" Craftsman lawn mover tractor to clean the carburetor and confused when time to reinstalling. Could not figure out while put it back to gather the linkage, This video is best to learn and put back the linkage. Appreciate. Great Help. Saves my day. Thanks a lot.
Thank you so much! A real life saver.. I took mine apart nearly a month ago because the carb was leaking.. Of course, the carb kit was on back order, then extended back order.. (from parts tree!) So i got one on amazon instead because i was tired of waiting. Anyways, i must have bent some stuff because its not going back the way i thought it should. Seeing it the way it should be helped me put it back together correctly. Thank you!
I'm working on something and usually I have to run in and jump on youtube and not too often I find everything I need answered in the first 2 minutes with 1 video. Thanks
Been Having issues with my Arens 52" Zero-Turn my father-in-law gifted me: Looks beautiful, Runs like aR$e. Used to be a Certified Mech. He makes his Own Gaskets for the VW outta Lucky Charms Boxes... Cheap SOB He has something installed backward with the Throttle Linkage, so Slow actually has it maxed out. My old ADHD thanks You! This is what I needed to see! New Sub: Dryden, Mich.
Thx James very instructional and helpful video of the choke throttle and governor operation on that I/C 12.5 B &S I'm so grateful Happy New Year God Bless Amen!
Some tractors have the exact same plate but the choke is a manual cable clamped to the black breather piece you took off. It clamps just like the throttle cable does but to that breather piece and the cable goes to the choke. My 12.5 Briggs and Stratton is manual choke. You can go manual choke or automatic because the plate is still the same. Good option if you don't want automatic choke. You can see the divit where the manual cable clamp goes on the black piece. May not be drilled yet for manual cable. It's right there above the first carburetor nut you removed. Clamp a choke cable in that groove and it goes directly to the choke on top. Better for cold start as it warms readjust the choke.
I'm having the same problem I took mine apart to clean the carb and the little bent wire that comes up and chokes it when you push the throttle lever all the way to choke isn't returning once I move the throttle back to the run position... It's all hooked up just like this one on here. I'm wondering if I have a return spring that's worn out there's not a lot of tension on it....
Thank you for a helpful video. I also have a smaller engine with the problem: I started ok with the first trial. After running for a little bit I turned it off but could not get the engine run again.
Maybe a carb. On hood there are numbers stamped. You can type those in Amazon and get a cheap carb that might work better. Or if your very mechanical you can get rebuild kit for existing carburetor. Good luck in your project!
I have 4 of these Snapper rer's now, 3 with Briggs engines, 2 of which are like yours, with the Walbro LMT(97% certain on the letters😅) carbs, and the 3rd with the old-school, integrated manifold, fully adjustable carb. That older engine (253707 0159-01), a white 11hp I/C powering a 33" Hi-Vac, has a similar but more robust linkage configuration. A little off-topic. Perhaps, but I have been wondering if anyone has attempted to swap out the Walbro or Nikki (sic?) carbs and manifolds with one of the older style carbs. If so, were there any noteworthy hurdles or unintended results?
I wouldn’t delete it…what I would do is do the job as if you deleted it. Hook up foot petal to throttle. Then use old throttle linkage as the new choke and leave the plate. That would entail bending that throttle linkage to the choke mechanism that way when you go up and down with old throttle lever it only operates the choke with the plate still installed.
Thank you. I ordered it, installed it. It starts but no matter how I adjust the idle speed the engine RPM is too fast. I have new carb gasket and it idles too fast in "choke" position and engine rpms are faster when moving throttle handle on snapper #SR828
@@bassinbillRC5300 do you have another carburetor to switch it with? I had one that was doing that I switched out the carb and my problem was solved. Now this is a new carburetor that I was installing so the jets might’ve been different or something but another manufacturer made one that worked with a Engine a little better for me.
Ok I hope you can answer this. I had to replace my coil on my Briggs and Stratton 13.5HP people is calling it a kill wire that connects to the coil does it have to be connected for it to run
I’ve unplugged it before and motor started. If that happens Then something is either shorting the kill wire that you missed, or a safety switch is causing the kill wire to become grounded. Disconnect the wire from the ignition module and use a meter set on ohms to connect to the kill wire and with the key on see if you have continuity. then start going through the wiring until you find what is causing the grounding issues with the key on.
@@Speeddemon-gm1gi well I usually unplug the carburetor fuel line from the carburetor itself, and make sure you have fuel that’s flowing through the hose and filter at a pretty good rate. If the flow is good then you can clean the carburetor. If you don’t want to clean carb you can buy a cheap one 699831 for about $15-20.
Hi i have old 12.5 Briggs with side plate Gov that seems ok and smooth running and loose when idle throttle then tight at full throttle BUT i can only get 3/4 power and push throttle further and no change. So does this mean the govt arm has slipped a little in that clamp OR the govt spring needs adj- and how? thanks
Loosen governor arm bolt. Make sure to turn shaft clockwise until it stops then tighten that governor shaft back up. Make sure there’s a spring behind that throttle plate, and then a spring on the throttle linkage. If that’s all correct and you’re still getting issues, I would then look into the carburetor.
@@Lawnmowercare Hi, if i manually move the vertical govt arm, i get full throttle, so its not being advanced as much automatically as it should so what does this mean? Already rebuilt carb, valves ect and engine smooth , just need govt adj from last owner left to do to finish it.
On the right bottom there is a hollow square on the video… I broke the plastic that goes in there… It has 3 wires hooked up to the screw… Nothing plugged on the back side… what is the replacement part called or could I use a rubber washer on one side.. ???
@@edwardmcgee5465 you can find them on eBay and if you can’t, I have my own shop I have a box with some in it. Email lawnmowercare317@gmail.com and I can send you one
What is wrong if the choke is not opening or closing on it's own? The black piece in carburetor is not moving. I believe in video you said it should flop.
Your linkages are supposed to have springs built into them and they’re supposed to be nice and tight / springy. If they are, most likely is something with a Carburetor not working right.
Mine has a issue when running that the governor has rpms going up and down constantly as hell it goes back and forth On its own. Without removing the plate I feel the spring on the governor intact. If i disconnect the governor linkage it runs at a steady rpm. Im not sure what the issue is, what causes the governor to kick back and forth on its own?
Sounds like you have a major surging issue. Might check your carburetor and make sure your linkages have springs on them / & make sure your plate has all three screws and the little spring is installed behind the plate. Personally, I would have to see it in person to make an honest assessment.
Got a Simplicity pacer engine. The cold start works, but the throttle cable won’t adjust speed. It is not even able to run at full rpms. What is the issue here?
Have you reset the governor arm? Most would probably say carburetor, but sometimes the governor arm gets out of adjustment and it sounds like a similar situation that you’re in.
This is my neighbor’s mower. Those Intek single cylinder engines were notorious for having camshaft failures. The camshaft failed, completely destroying the engine in the process. They had a new motor put on there and the guy, who installed it, swears it is installed properly. It might be the carburetor’s problem. I will have to look at it.
@@Lawnmowercare That video was very helpful! This mower isn’t loping or surging, but it is running slightly slower than normal, and it won’t adjust down to idle speed. If I reset the arm, should it run at the proper speed and be able to lower to idle speed?
