Excellent video, I have been looking for one that shows every step for doing this and at last I found your one which is very methodical and makes it look straightforward, my only niggle is you didn't show how you did the lighting and what you used to add the extra red light, I'm sure I can find that somewhere on the old internet, thanks for making this video as I have 4 hst sets to do, I just hope the lima and hornby wiring are similar on these once I open them up, electrics have never been my strong point. Bri.
you did right with the varnish theory however clear laquer should have been used, people tend to forget trains in real life have gloss paint not matt, the only thing that should be matt is the weathering. also when soldering you need to make sure you have a good mechanical connection by "j" hooking the wires together, never rely on just touching the iron to two wires
Hi Nigel I have just returned to modelling and have watched your video over and over as I am very new to converting to DCC One thing I cannot get my head round is the second rail wire. I think you used the wire with the small diode on it on my 125 this wire the left front light connector pin which pushes in to a hole in plastic My question is where does it get its power from I hope you are still able to answer my query or amI just being thick and missing the obvious. Great video and this my first attempt so don’t want to get it wrong Stuart Forbes
Thanks for making this, looking to convert my exact same loco, albeit I'm planning on fitting a small sliding switch somewhere to switch the input power between the chip and the motor, to allow me to still use the loco on my club's DC circuit.
Hi Nigel, Great job on the 125 conversion, I have a couple of these to do myself and it will be my first attempt at changing to DCC. Can you advise what resistors you used and if possible any more info on getting the directional lighting to work. I can see the wiring but not clearly enough in the video. Any help would be appreciated.
Glad it was of use Phill. I replaced the traction tyres with Bullfrog Snot which completed bringing it up to date. I'll change the front lights at some stage and swap them for a piece of veroboard which would be a better fit. I just wish I hadn't painted it with varnish in 1979 as it has gone yellow and needs removing which will be difficult.
hi there Nigel I'm thinking of delving into the wonderful world of dcc and this video helped enormously, but i'm a bit overwhelmed by the amount of dcc chips and functions can you suggest a nice simple chip to install (like the one you used),I 'm not to worried about having loads of functions just the forward/reverse,and lights as in your video would do to start with.again thanks for the tutorial.liked and subbed.
Hi David, glad you found the video useful. I'd recommend using a basic chip from Zimo or ESU as they are very well established manufacturers who make good quality chips. You might also consider Hornby TTS sound chips for a HST which aren't too expensive. I never regretted making the change to DCC you can add ground signals, point operation etc all from the one controller. Good luck Nigel
Bonjour, mais il semble que vous avez connecté la LED avant et la LED rouge arrière sur la même résistance sur le fil bleu, pourriez-vous me le confirmer. Merci d’avance. Hello, but it seems that you connected the front LED and the rear red LED on the same resistance on the blue wire, could you confirm it for me. Thank you in advance.
Hi Raymond, the blue wire is a common positive feed for the lights and the resistor reduces the output voltage for the red LED. The white light is a bulb so doesn't need it. If you google Brain Lambert DCC he has written a good guide to how to do this. You could use a separate series resistor with the bulb to set its brightness to something you like.
Nigel very informative video on this conversion, I followed all your instructions until connecting the lights. Can you say what colour wire from the chip did you connect to? Many thanks . Frank Hughes
Hi Frank, I would have used White and Yellow to connect to one side of front and rear lamps with Blue being used as a common positive supply. If you're using LEDs make sure you get them the right way around as switching the negative is unusual. Nigel
I used a second decoder to provide the lights, make sure you get the polarity right with the wires as they have a common positive rather than the more common negative.
@@nigelevans2467 Thanks Nigel.... All works but after installing the 8 pin Bachmann decoder the top speed of the loco has reduced significantly from when it was on DC. Any idea how i can improve this?
