Awesome video! Liked it and subscribed aswell. Very good detail. I followed everything in the video and it matches exactly (expect the primary chain marks, which doesnt matter) to what you have as far as all the cam and crank marks. I don't even want to think of doing this all over again, I saw you had put your facebook info in the comments if one needed to reach out for help. I found your page and sent you a message along with a video quickly reviewing all my marks. Hopefully it can pass the test and be approved! Thank you - Jon
Ive recently gotten a P0021 and P0524 code. After researching possible causes, ive come to the decision of replacing the galley gaskets since i hear the timing chains rattle between shifts and possibly the head gasket (its blown but ive use temp seal). What do you reccomend i should order and replace gasket & accesory wise as i take all of this apart?
Sorry if this is a dumb question….If I’m understanding correctly that’s the torque sequence for the cam shaft sprocket bolt? What are you sequencing back and forth between? Left and right side? Or is that for the cam tower?
You mentioned the timing references not lining up on the secondary chains with the crankshaft at TDC and you'd explain that later ... I missed the 'later' somehow ... could you elaborate? Thank you.
Oh sure, I had actually already rotated the engine; and mechanically brought back up to TDC...essentially, don't expect the colored chain links to come back into indication on the sprocket after you rotate the engine x times...personally I do a full 720 degrees of rotation carefully inspecting and listening for any chain guide dragging etc...after my initial install I just do a couple rotations observing the sprocket and case indicators only..then reassemble...I do this because I want the minimal amount of rotation on dry cylinder liners...I've seen guys shred their liners on new engines from repeatedly hand rotating in a non oiled state basically
These videos are very insightful! I’m in the process of camming my personal G37 and I’ve been looking for a video like this. Perfect timing that you just uploaded. I’m having an issue trying to align the passenger side cams in the upright position and I’m not sure why. Is there any way I could contact you?
You wanna make sure you leave a wrench on it and manipulate them back and forth...if need to text me with pictures; I'm on Facebook under Seth Joyner (baltimore)
Just opened up the timing cover to check timing and gaskets. Have my motor at top dead center, all cam sprockets matching correct marks on the motor, bottom key way lined up with the mark at the oil pump, but my chain marks do not up line up with any of the sprocket marks.
The marks are for initial installation, once its it’s been spun after that even when setting back at TDC, they won’t line up. As long as the marks in the cams and block line up
@@mxkidd38 hey im going through kinda the same thing right now. All my cams and crank line up with TDC but none of the orange and yellow marking line up at all. When starting to take off the tensioner the exhaust ones where lined up but i guess they moved but it still stayed on TDC just the colors moved off from the marks. Should i be worried? At this moment they are all aiming upwards at the marks along with the crank aimed at the mark , just no color aligned. Let me know bro thanks
I wish I could find a mechanic like you. My 09 370z valve covers gaskets are leaking after letting the car sit for 3 years and now running it again. Gonna have someone replace the gaskets and now thinking about replacing the gallery gaskets and hardware as well. Would you have any other recommendations on replacing anything else while everything is apart considering its been sitting? 130,000 miles atm, just a fun mostly stock car I want to keep healthy for as long as possible. Thanks👍
Yes..most def do the gallery gasket with upgraded Allen bolts and thread lock...paper or metal gasket...the hardware is the failure point on the timing cover plates....new primary chain, water pump only ....ur good to go bro
Hey I’m currently doing this and I’m having and issue where my crankshaft is stuck and only moves about 90° but the cams move, how can I get the crankshaft unstuck?
Basically, u really gotta research who's had actual success and has examples of vq37vhr builds...the ability to set lash, and degree the vvel control cam to phase with the stepper motors...if they don't know about that....ur out
Hi, I just want to share some additional info that the Int/V timing B1 is -15.5 CA and B2 is -4.5 CA, VVEL Timing B1 27.8410 deg and B2 27.4395 deg at idle. In cranking, Int/V timing B1 = -16 CA and B2 = -3.5 CA. What are your thoughts on the next step should be? Any suggestions and guidance will be greatly appreciate it. By the way it's a '12 M37x with 67k miles. Had it a little over 3 yrs and put only 9k miles on it. SES came on about a month ago. Dropped the oil pan for debris inspection - all good. Changed solenoid, camshaft, and crank shaft sensor. P0011 still persist.
@@SangNguyen-oh5sp I'm wondering what the condition of the gallery gasket plates and hardware are like on the timing cover (behind all the timing components)....the plate screws like to back out and cause gasket failures; in turn you can get inconsistent hydraulic pressures that lock the cam sprockets incorrectly or not enough leading to a lack of advance or difference between the two...I'd check there first...which is not an easy check...other than that...dynamic seals in the vtc covers may be worn etc...seems like your vvel is working, this is vtc only
@@sethjoyner391 Thank you for your reply and feedback. Greatly appreciate it. It appears that you're suggesting to open the front timing cover and inspect the vulnerable gallery gaskets/hardware for failure. Once there, what are your other recommended components to replace as preventive maintenance. ie water pump, thermostat, primary and secondary chain, intake and exhaust sprockets, belt tensioner, guides, and seals, etc. Other than parts cost, do you know an estimated cost for this repair? Many thanks in advance.
I’m pulling my motor soon to rebuild. Noticed my oil has been a little milky and when I peeped up at my heads I noticed minimal amounts of coolant corrosion / build up right at the seam of both heads! I top off coolant about once a year, never had any symptoms of a head gasket other than that oil being slightly milky. Who would have known 😢 anyhow a stroker kit is now calling my name. $$$$ Nervous $$$$
Sounds like ur water pump is leaking inside the timing case...it's somewhat common...I've rarely seen head gaskets blow, unless it's a stock/ high boost engine etc...never seen it on a stock engine, factory gaskets are pretty tough MLS units
@@sethjoyner391 Thanks for your input!! It means a bunch. Im an upcoming technician myself. I can see the heads and not quite yet “leaking” but coolant buildup is present. I got this engine and apparently it came out of a “drift car”. It was selling for 400$ so I took my gamble on it. I did the water pump, gallery gasket upgrade, etc. basic tune up. I did not remove heads or the rear timing cover. It’s About a year later and I want to build this engine for boost.
I recommend primary chain, new guides, new primary tensioner, and upgraded performance galley gaskets with upgraded Allen hardware/271 loctite...I would also change out the three dynamic seals on each one of the vtc intake cam covers...and of course get all new gaskets for everything, nissan or Honda factory sealant only and of course remember your case o rings etc (gallery plate) secondary tensioners and chains are fine to reuse
@@sethjoyner391 z1 had the oem complete gasket set . Those gallery gaskets any good ? I thought in 2012 or after they fixed those issues . All I needed was the water pump and I ended up pulling whole motor to freshen it up probably doing head gaskets to just cause . What you think ? Head gaskets just cause ? Also timing guides and chains aren’t bad but since I’m there I guess I should just didn’t wanna spend the 500$ lol I also read the head bolts can be reused if specd out . Never been the type to re use but would love your take on everything !!??
@@colt2540 id definitely avoid the heads or vvel system in the back..definitely don't unbolt the vvel motors...nah, I've heard that folklore forever...they never fixed the problem...z1 or concept z or others sell the upgraded gallery gaskets and hardware
@@sethjoyner391 so I bought new cam tensioners am I able to leave motors alone and pull shafts to pull the lower valve cover plate so I can replace the tensioners . ??
Passenger exhaust cam...it's normal for the cam to relax into a position off to the left when installing the tower system...then just roll the cam back in place with dowel pin facing vertical aligning it with the vertical line on the tower
@@sethjoyner391 I have the gallery gasket from eps tuning, water pump and thermostat, how much do you charge to install...do you do any side jobs, I'm located in PA.
Leave the intake sprocket bolt in with 4/5 threads, exhaust sprocket bolt out, make sure to compress and pin the secondary tensioner, light tap with rubber hammer on exhaust sprocket to pop it on there gently...be mindful of the cam dowel pins
What year? Typically that involves a failed intake sprocket with a slipped encoder wheel...essentially the encoder has changed positions and is now not in the reference range for the sensors mag pick up.......i dunno if I've ever seen one with chain stretch so bad it wouldn't fire
yeah check for error codes but you most likely have a slipped encoder ring on the intake cam sprocket. i literally just finished this job on my g37 lol.
@@sethjoyner391 😂😂yeah lol. this was my first time taking a timing cover off before. learned a whole lot and was fully worth it since the dealer was quoting 5 grand
I'm trying to figure out how to get Bank 1 camshaft to face directly UP--- Once i start torquing down the cam tower, it either slips to the left or the right. The lobes are facing up on cylinder 1 but i can't align them like i find in every forum or RU-vid video!
This is totally normal...what you wanna is put the cam into it's relaxed position with the dowel facing at 9 o clock or whatever it may be can't quite remember...torque the tower assembly and use a wrench on the cam to bring it back into its upright and aligned position...u could crack the cam otherwise
That slip to the left...leave it in that position for the tower install...then pull it back in position later...also..I normally always leave a Cresent wrench on that side so the cam can accidentally kick back on me
