Hey there am interested in building a VQ myself, where can I get the service manual you mentioned, for specs like tolerances and such? Is it some sort of Nissan subscription ?
@aaronawon3088 u can just look online for the year nissan manual u need and download the factory workshop manual...then print out all 1 billion pages, punch holes and put it in a 3 ring binder...what I do
@@sethjoyner391 I’ve been trying to locate one but all that’s coming up for me has been owners manual or simple manuals not the through stuff needed to build an engine, can you send me the link you were able to use much appreciated if possible 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
Hey dude i just replaced my head gasket on my vq37vhr timing is right started up smoothly.. but the check engine light is on but i have 0 Acceleration do i need rest something ? Or any ideas why? Cheers
The browning you mentioned on the connector is very evident on mine. It looks completely burnt out, so I need to change the whole control module and the connector?
Okay question! Just picked up a 370Z with 72k miles 2009’for 9000 cash off this Guy, but I wanna do a N/A build with running forged components.. I wanted to Do eagle rods an wis pistons… can you help me in the right direction.. What would be a good direction with this. I know N/A won’t be much power gains but it’s still a cheap route than boosting for now.. Figured I running forged would save a few problems in the long run internally
@_Zoctane u can definitely run like 600-620whp stock internals all day with a solid tune...seen cars last for years like that..still healthy..just a thought...but minimum is what u stated..eagles will hold just fine...probably unnecessary unless ur pulling over 650whp
Very good stuff dude!! Quick question motor motor has been built for a year now. I had amazing oil pressure 15-17 ibs at warm up idle Now im constidemtly at 12-10 ibs after oil warm Should look into gallary gaskets already??
Sounds like it, that's really the only thing that can make it creep down....I say that...but a potentially failing or fractured oil pump gear can do similar stuff
I'm getting my clutch replaced and asked my mechanic to replace this rear main seal. I didn't think to give him engine oil. Does the engine oil need to be drained for this?
Nahhh, the only concern I ever have is...get em new, not exposed to open air (dry), light amount of arp thread lube and barely hand tight install essentially...I've also reused before, zero problems, tons of engines. Also, nitrile gloves are friends
Good Morning, fantastic video, I have a built VQ37VHR Turbo that is going into limp mode due to the phase not reaching required range, the motor functioned well for 4000km, and still runs perfect when not in limp mode, then started this error, it has had the block and heads cut, fitted with Wiseco pistons and Eagle H rods, after spending over $87,000 on building the car, the company that built the motor and the car has washed their hands of it (run out of tallent) Unfortunately there is no one that I have been able to find in australia that has the knowledge required to diagnose the issue, after watching this video it makes sense to me that this is what is occurring, is there any way of further diagnosing to be sure this is the issue prior to tearing the motor down? I really appreciate your input
@@sethjoyner391 Thanks for your response, the car has been tuned with Uprev, I am waiting for a friend with a professional Scan tool to be able to check data stream, mine only does VW, Audi euro etc, the Vehicle is a 2010 370Z
Just got a 2010 g37x recently. It’s throwing a code for p0300 and p0011. Car is in limp mode with SES light on. No check engine, no oil pressure light. Gallery gaskets just got replaced and car is filled with 5w30. Could it be a vvel solenoid or sensor issue ? Or could it be something bigger
Does this connect to the wires that are under the driver side wheel well liner? Any info on what that harness is called? Mine have been ruined from my tires rubbing and I’m trying to replace that harness.
Up until today my car has never shut off while driving. But I'm still only getting the one code u0109. Which is simply fuel pump control module not communicating so I keep coming back to this video hoping it will fix it. Every time that I go back there and manipulate the harness it seems to start if only briefly. I'm just not seeing anything significant like you found but I'm pretty sure it was my black wire and the black and green that had the browning
Yea, doods have definitely had different wires to the fpcm loose than I did....my car has run perfect since...I also pulled codes/data...never happened again...definitely related to that harness I imagine
Heeey i have p0300 code tested alot and run a ecutek test ans hav vtc adanaced one on 63 degree and other one is 0 sensor have been replaced and everything gets power maybe vvl ecu dead or the cam phaser ?
Awesome find! I always wondered why my bank 1 valvetrain was slightly noisier than bank 2, even with the lifter bucket clearances within spec. It would be super cool to reassemble the VVEL system, take the according measurements and confirm the theory! In regard to acquiring the 5.5° VVEL (actuator to control cam) inclination, how did you go about finding that exact measurement? With Piston 1 at TDC, and both control cams locked to the left stopper, I measured 1.633” (B2) and roughly 1.585” on (B1). I’m sure every engine has slight variances; curious how you went about landing on that 1.585” measurement. My engine only has about 37k miles and seems to be in great shape. Upgrading to 2013+ springs/retainers.
I know right!!!...I'm finally the guy that found it...but, it will go unnoticed.lol🙃....honestly, I've never had catastrophic mechanical failure...just extremely audible valvetrains...I always assumed the general looseness of the control cam rockers with plastic valve cover+ mileage. For all my big boy motor builds (I have tons of cores) I had been selecting 30k mile or less valvetrains and heads; that basically eliminated my issues as a builder..but now we know why and what the solution is...I've been chasing this dragon for years.
@@sethjoyner391 that of which i completely agree. So, another thought is, why not just tighten the top one? Or would that just throw off the lift alignment per cylinder?
@@sethjoyner391 would be interested hearing you and the race engineer's take on if this flaw had any potential of compromise to the point of engine failure.
@Mizagyu so, the important part is that the pin stays in its all the way up position, then the bottom set screw meets it as far as height..so, the other bizarre thing is that only the bottom set screw backs out...I've never seen a loose top screw or even under torqued for that matter if that helps
I think this might be happening to me. My car's been running fine all day, ( I have a2016 2SS) I went to start it up to move it into the garage so I can clean my wheels and it started and immediately sputtered dead and wouldn't restart. I got the dreaded u0109 code and when I searched it I came upon this video. So I went to check The fuses first and when they checked out I went to the other side where this module was and just sort of check them and pushed them all back into their pins more securely and it started up ever since. I fear it will happen again until I figure out exactly what the problem is
Appreciate the information. Same issue with my 1SS. The dealer changed the fuel pump, chassis control module , and it worked for a month. Took almost a month because of them not being able to find the control module. One month later, same issue and codes. I talked specifically to the tech that would be working on my car and mentioned this video and explained the situation. Soon after I got a call it was ready. Cost 300 bucks to fix a wire in that module. If I didn't have a great extended warranty through my credit union, the first fuel pump and CCM job would have cost me over 2k, plus the high rental car bill. Wish I saw this video first to let them know what to look for. Come to find out the dealership has a ton of complaints. They were just chasing codes to make money. Total BS. No worries. I got GM Corporate on them and got some money back for the rentals. Anyway, thanks again for the info. I linked your video on the 6th gen Camaro forums because another guy is having the same issue. If you want me to pull it down, just holler. I'll put the name of your channel as well so they don't think it was me.
So, here i am again, decided to tackle a G37. 2010. I installed 370Z heads from a good motor. MR16 headbolts, oil gallery gaskets, all seals EXCEPT, THE VTC cover seals & gaskets. ( seeing what i could get away with ) Now i have P0011-P0021 along with P0524. P0524 correlates with INT/V timing. I did a gallery gasket job on another G37 last year with VTC gaskets & seals, along with water pump etc & a VVEL module. His car ran perfect from the jump. Mine has intermittent dips at idle & shoots for limp mode after trying to bleed the coolant system too long due to ECU picking up the issue, going to fail safe mode. I am aware of Jim Wolf Technologies tech support section showing you what a slipping reluctor wheel looks like. I have ordered the gasket set from Z1 on the notion i believe oil is pissing out of my Cam Sprockets because, like i stated earlier, my buddies G37 ran perfect with gasket & seals replaced. Mine does not. Would you say this is a strong argument?
Quick question, the converter being held on by inspection plate you mention around 1:48 is leaking fluid on my G. Would you suggest changing inspection plate to fix? Or is something else causing the leak? It’s all in the area of that plate. TY
He Seth thanks for the video im not very knowledgeable with these infiniti motors but i have a 2014 Q50 engine had a guy that swapped it to a 2014 370z VVEL stayed on the engine assembly and it seems to have a timing issue barely starts and seems to maybe have advanced timing… are you able to chime some advice on this topic please… thanks in advance
