Changing front axle seals in my 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500. Keep in mind this is just the way I do them, it may not be 100% correct, but this works for me. Like and subscribe if this helped you out whatsoever!
My brother! I did the oil pick up tube on my 2000 z71 now I gotta do this lol. I read you're comment and thought it was mine from way back haha keep on trucking
@@eyefromdasky3269 Funny... Thanks... I ended up pulling the engine 2nd Cam Bearing moved.... Still a Perfect project forces me to remove the engine and High Performance it.... I bought the Low Oil pressure Truck to build a Earth Roamer (Google image)... The Guy that sold me the truck thought it turned a Bearing when I pulled the pan I seen he had installed a New Melling Oil Pump and Green O-ring... Less parts to buy :)
Thanks for this! I have to do this on my family's 99 Tahoe and 98 GMC Suburban. Axles look identical. As for the sealant used for the passenger side extension housing, I'll be using Honda Bond. It has been the best I have used for sealing aluminum cases together. Regardless of what one may use, ensure the mating surfaces are clean and dry prior to application and don't add so much that it seeps inside. Again, Thanks for a great video!
Hey! I love how you simply disconnected the axles leaving the wheels on, etc. Did you have to remove or do anything with the pitman arm, idler arm, etc?
This is a half ton truck with a rack and pinion steering setup, but with trucks that have idler pitman steering you should be able to turn the wheels one way and get enough room to drop the diff
i notice that i have play like bearing is bad so i replaced the bearing that seats behind the seal driverside and it still has play and after 2 weeks it started to leak again what is causing the play?
Not sure if your still in need of any type of explanation, yet for anyone else who see's this and does, he's what I've learned from this situation on my 02 Tahoe 4wd. The stub axle is supported by the bearing you spoke of, behind the axle seal - drivers side as you spoke of - inside the case side adjuster assembly, which in supported inside the case housing . The inner splined end of the stub axle, which has groove for circlip, is supported inside of the side gear of the carrier housing. What I've seen, on more than one of these AND on 'so called' REMAN units is the side and pinion gears, aka spider gears inside the carrier, are sloppy and worn out along with the circular shims they ride on that sit between them and the carrier case machined surface area. THAT SLOP is what adds to and compounds, an already minutely flexible axle movement scenario. I've replaced the side and pinion gears / spider gear set, with AAM, not the other available aftermarket stuff, my preference, and it removed the play and reduced side play for axle shaft to a minimum. IIRC, the factory service manual spec for new carrier pinion n side gears was between .000 and .006 thou. .000 would seem to tight, yet if everything heats up and expands together, then reckon it works and they do wear in soon enough as I've seen. I had a carrier in the reman unit with mix matched spider gear set, 2 newer looking and 2 with slight fracturing and sloppy yet the shims looked newer. The center pin was okay with light groove, barley catching fingernail and fit was normal in case otherwise. I was going to just replace the gears and decided to have a long look at the carrier itself and check it. Inside from where the cross pin goes through and across the riding surface behind the gear/shim, I was able to see a hairline fracture and could see the metal was discolored from an apparent overheat/lack of lube situation. Figure reman units come from abused cores like anything. Anyhow, new AAM bare carrier to go with already purchased spider gear set and all was back to factory tight and very minute axle side play. If I had to answer this in 3 words, to make it simple: SPIDER GEAR SLOP. Although many other things could cause it, this is major thing I've seen so far pertaining to such. As for the leak, check the vent assembly and use some pipe sealant after cleaning thoroughly to assist along with making sure fill and drain plugs are torqued to spec. Hope this helps!
First thing you should have done was wheel it outside since you had it on that cart and pressure washed it of to clean it real good so you're not working on dirty greasy stuff...😉
I changed seal on the driver side and was easy, put everything back how it was and test drive it in 4h when I made turns I heard some noise definitely I didn’t had that noise before I wonder what is that noise from? It’s driving good in 2 wd
Can you replace the bearing on the drivers side without having to break open the case? I mean can you do it while it’s on the truck and through the stub shaft hole from the outside? Thanks
At 7:33 you added the Red RTV gasket maker, how did that end up working for you? I am having a leak at that junction. The Ac Delco parts guy got me an intermediate shaft housing gasket (pn 15270970). My passenger side axle seal is fine so I am hoping i can just replace this housing gasket & not the seal. My drivers side seal is also leaking so I will be replacing that as well. I don’t think I will pull the whole diff though. I don’t have a lift. Thanks for the video & if you have any pointers I’d appreciate it.
I had no issues with it after this video. I believe there is a gasket for that intermediate shaft housing to the pumpkin, but I decided to use RTV because I felt it would seal better. I’ve done several of these front diffs the same way and have yet to have a failure
Good vid bud thx, so i HAVE to separate the housing to replace drivers side axle seal bc of that lil c clip right? Seen vids of people turning that output shaft and prying it out but they probably damaged the circle clip for sure huh or can u turn the shaft just right where it falls outta the way freeing up shaft to be removed. Wanna do both seals but didnt want to pull dif or seperate housing but do want it done right.
You mean passenger side? Drivers side shaft pops out no problem, passenger side is the one that needs the housing separated. I’ve tried a couple without separating and you end up damaging the C clip and the metal plate with the tabs.
@@bradenrein ya meant passenger side sorry, darn thats what i was afraid of. Okay thank you, i have a RC 3in lift so im afraid my crossbrace will be a must to remove.
You would lose a lot of your fluid eventually and the diff would begin self destructing due to lack of lubrication. You could keep checking fluid levels and topping it off, but that gets old after a while.
Ok, I am mechanical inclined. But just want to ask this stupid question. Both seals need to be replaced on mine. Do I HAVE to drop the whole differential housing to replace the seals? I think I may be missing something, since I'm a virgin doing this specific job.
No you don’t need to, I did to make it easier. Drivers side is easy to do in the truck, passenger side needs that side unbolted from the truck to drop the diff down a bit to pull the extension housing out. Then you’ll change the seal with the housing out of the truck
Might just need some more force for the drivers side, supposed to come out no issue. Passenger side is a bit more of a hassle and I’ve bent the snap ring before getting it off, just have to be very careful bending it back into shape
It was a struggle but just regular snap ring pliers with a prong small enough to fit into the groove. Helps to use a couple flathead screwdrivers to keep the ring away from the shaft. Tough to explain I know
When you put back on the axle stub shaft on driver side, does the plate sit flush or very close to the transfer or is there a gap? I’m having trouble fitting my new cv axle in and believe it’s bc my axle stub is sticking to far out towards the wheel
There should be a small gap. Try pulling the shaft out by hand, if it doesn’t come out, you should have it seated properly. If it comes out, then it’s not pushed in or clipped in properly
Yes. I have pulled the entire front diff out on a couple of trucks while the front was up on Jack stands in the driveway. Obviously everything is easier on a lift. But it really isn’t horrible laying on your back in the driveway.
Is it possible to reinstall the passenger side shaft without taking the case apart? Reason I ask it because I was removing the strut today to replace it (2013 Silverado 1500) and the force of the knuckle dropping pulled the shaft out of the casing (CV was still bolted on both ends). I can only guess that the force popped the retainer clip off hence why the shaft is out of the case about a half inch now.
It is possible if you have the differential removed. Stand the diff up with the passenger side facing up, pull the shaft SLOWLY, and reinstall. I've done it countless times and am doing so today on another truck.
