I have a 2011 that’s overheating. The coolant disappears and there’s no leaks under it nor smoke coming from the exhaust pipe but I took it to a mechanic and they told me it has a blown head gasket. This current engine is a replacement for the one the car had when I bought it. Now I’m looking to replace the replacement engine again 😂😂😂😂
😆😆 contemplating throwing some 12 inch subs in my 89k1500 extended cab, have had this thing 19 yrs...just now installed a Bluetooth head unit and 4 new 6x4s.... funny as a teen my imports would get systems within the week... didn't think I'd own this classic this long but here we are, older and wiser 😅😆😆
Great video! Here is a tip for anyone doing the double joint with the ball in the center. Put the first U-joint in like he did, then put the flat end piece in the 2nd U-joint spot and stand the whole driveshaft up on the flat end. The weight of the driveshaft will compress the spring such that the u-joint cups will line right up so you can get the last two cups in.
Was worried my 1100 piece with 204 shooting star kit would be too many stars. Was great to see a crew cab with sunroof and rear roof console to compare. Thanks.
Funny story, picked up my K20 super cheap because the guy thought the ignition switch didn't work. Turns out the original owner installed a push start button in place of the cigarette lighter. Took me roughly 5 minutes to figure it out.
Could you tell me where you sourced the device that switches between the camera views? Does the head unit need multiple camera inputs? Thank you for your help!!
NO way !! I've been doing this for 40 years, you don't need to pull the subframe on most cars, (this one included), the gearbox will either drop through clear to the floor or just move over to the right and sit on the leg of the subframe to expose all the parts. At the very worst, you may need to slacken 2 subframe bolts on the port side of the car so the gearbox can duck under the frame rail, but usually this isn't necessary. I've never in my life seen anyone take an engine out to swap a clutch and flywheel. I'm 67 and if I couldn't have a new clutch in that car using 4 axle stands, a tow rope and a single floor jack in 4 or 5 hours, safely and correctly, I'd cash my chips in. Sorry, what you show here is the most difficult and pointless time consuming way of changing a clutch that requires a workshop and engine hoist !! The car you're working on is either a rebadged Daewoo Lancetti, or Vauxhall Astra, (rebadged Holden is also a possibility) which are really easy cars to work on which you've made look really difficult by taking most of the car apart for some reason ! This is really not a good way to do this job unless you just like buying expensive needless equipment and taking your car apart for a couple of days. Also, you seem to be confused between "engaging" and "disengaging" the clutch. When you push the pedal to the floor, the clutch DISENGAGES, not "engages". A car that won't go into gear with the engine running means the clutch won't DISENGAGE either partially or fully meaning the input shaft to the gearbox is still rotating. If this car has a concentric slave cylinder and you didn't pre load it with fluid, it would explain why you had such difficulty bleeding the clutch like a lot of other people who don't do it. If you're bleeding a clutch 5 or 10 times, you've missed something. The following link is to how the job is done, although you can use a floor jack to move the gearbox to the right if you're not as strong as the guy in this link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b2dlfz2eiys.html @@bradenrein
If the car has a concentric slave cylinder and you didn't do this, this is why you had a problem bleeding - 1:14:00 - 1:15:00 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-otgWniXjkXs.html@@bradenrein
