THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS!!!!! I just recently decided to try and fix an old Jonsered 525 that my Dad had bought new in the 80’s and that got passed down to me. After replacing the piston, ring, crank seals, a new carb kit and many attempts at tuning it, I just couldn’t make it run right. I was just about ready to give up since replacement carbs for these are now impossible to find. After watching this video I went straight in the garage and took the carb out again. Sure enough, the needle wasn’t sealing properly but now it is and the chainsaw runs great and starts back up with only a short pull on the recoil! Once again, THANKS FOR SHARING!!
Just used this tip to fix a John Deere 544 with Kawasaki Mikuni double barrel carburetor that was continuously flooding. Haven’t able to run it for years and they wanted 400 dollar for a new carburetor for it. THANK YOU!!!!!
I just used my 2036 Jonsered 2036 brush saw for the first time in 3+ years. I always used premium, non-oxygenated gas in it and measured the 2stk oil carefully. I don't use it as much as I did when I got it 20 years ago. So I didn't have any mixed gas around. I bought a can of pre-mix to try. The saw started right up - a few primer shots and off it went. But didn't want to run at idle - even after warmed up. I would run at half choke. Today, before I loaded my stuff to go to work I sprayed that little carb with carb/choke cleaner - I just hosed it down. After it dried I started it again and sprayed the running carb again. That blast killed that little engine. But it did run at idle. So I went to work and it ran flawlessly. I did bog a little at throttle up. But it always did that. Best to keep such a small engine revved up a little anyway. Next spring I may adjust the carb a little. My point is to try the simple things first. WHAT THE FIX did a great job of fixing his saw. I'm sure he's an excellent small engine guy. But don't start tearing things apart until you try the easy things first. For example - the on/off switch. My saw started so good yesterday. Today I couldn't get it running - until I turned the switch to 'on'. LOL Another thing to check when hard starting or poor idle. Make sure you air cleaner is not full of sawdust or dirt. I'm no small engine guru - but I've run many hundreds of gallons of gas thru 90cc chain saws. Not tree trimming or logging - cut, trim, wait for removal. We cut on powerline construction projects. Cut, limb, move on. in those bigger saws we'd go thru 2.5 gallons of gas per day per man.
I'd just about given up trying to get my saw running properly. This is the last thing I'm going to try before it goes in the bin! Edit: IT WORKED!! The needle looked as clean as new but I ran a drill bit in the hole by hand anyway, then blew it all out with the air line - fired up straight away and after adjusting the idle when it had warmed up it now starts and runs really well. Thank you!
Thanks for the great lesson on needle and seat. My question now is I just replace the primer bulb, connected the hoses as they were and it continues to flood.?? Yes i did swap the hoses, and no success??
Question im working on a 345 Husqvarna and i rebuilt it to a 353 and i can't get the carburetor adjusted and the screws seem to not be doing nothing with high and low but it idle good
Gonna give this a try, got a stubborn poulan 42cc, started bogging real bad cutting out. After it cuts out you can tell it's flooding with fuel coming out the muffler from trying to restart.
How did it go did it fix its problems or did it still piss you off Like how i pulled my stihl yard tools so many repeated times the cord spring inside broke so now i need 2 different replacement parts for my stihls and then try his trick out on all these
When I have a saw that is going into compressor stahl I lean out the L jet until it stays idling. My time frame for my saws is 15 minutes. Compressor stahl means it is getting to much gas and overwhelming the saw. I check my carbs to 5# pressure with my Mighty Vac before I put them on a saw. If they do not hold 5# pressure they won’t work properly. I went through four aftermarket HD carbs for my MS 440 before I got one that worked properly. I do squirt a little gas in the carb before I test it with the Mighty Vac. I want the needle wet before testing.
My Stihl 034 AV when started and I try to tune up got trouble with the n "H" it starts to get power when the screw is all the way in which is NO GOOD ---it suppose to be 1 turn out--- also a lot of black smoke come out (it has a Tillson carburettor ) Can anyone help if it can be fixed ??
Hey buddy, I know it’s late in comment section, but thought I would ask. Mine bogs down after it gets hot. New spark plug, new coil , carb rebuild… nothing changed. Could this be the problem? Thanks
The back end of a larger bamboo skewer works great and fits the hole pefectly, pointy isnt bad for the steel wool trick but doesnt grab as nice unless you split the end a bit
I performed the task that you showed. Thank you. I'm not sure about one task. The drilling task? There's the hole (seat, i guess), and there's a smaller hole at the bottom of the hole. Which hole is supposed to be the target of the drill bit? I assumed you meant the larger hole?
I did removed the spark plug..and after 1 day I found the crankshaft case full with petrol... can be the carburettor? When I try to start the chainsaw it's flooded immediately...
@@Mike-su8si EDIT: thanks for your input, I should have worded this as the first suspect being the diaphragm, then the second thing to look at while you are in there would be the needle & seat. Recently fixed a leaf blower when cleaning inside carburetor hadn't helped much by then replacing just the diaphragm never bothering the valve & seat part for the second repair attempt. Prior the leaf blower would not even fire, and it would spit fuel out the muffler. Runs like a champ now. Will leave my original somewhat incorrect comment below for others to learn from. yeah flooding into crankcase, and spitting raw fuel out muffler the most likely suspect is needle valve as you say sticking open, not properly sealing. Someone else on YT also mentioned the little metering diaphragm can get stiff and out of shape, they also said beware of the height of the little center pin on metering diaphragm may vary between applications, despite every thing else appearing identical and seemingly fit.
This is only video on zama needle seat. I wanted to remove and replace brass seat, but find no info. Before I seen this, I started reaming seat by hand with diamond bit. My issue was test was holding 7 to 4 lbs, but failing under 4 lbs.
I don't have those testers or money for one but got plenty of those carburetors and will be drilling all of them because i keep all my old parts incase i need them or a piece off of one or if someone else might need one for free
Good idea, I guess. Most recommend polishing the seat with q-tip in drill with toothpaste or other mild polishing compound. I will try your method to see how it works.
@@WHATTHEFIX I haven’t needed to polish a seat yet. I’ve seen one other method besides what I already mentioned, and that’s running the drill bit in reverse, so you polish the seat rathe than removing any material. I’d try those methods first and save yours as a last recourse. Using your method, anyone should be aware the the lever height may need to be adjusted. Also, if using the Q-tip method, someone suggested cutting off the cotton tip, trimming the remaining end to match the angle of the needle tip and polishing with that. Makes a lot of sense to try and match the needle angle as much as possible.
yeah I can see myself having a slip and drilling clean through the carburetor. More inclined to try the idea you saw else where, q tip and toothpaste. Never tried this, but you know baking soda & vinegar might be good in case of a corroded carburetor, hey works on stuck metal plumbing nuts! Just an idea, but I'm a thinking maybe a golf tee, although the angle is kind of acute (sharp) compared to the needle valve seat, but what you might do is cut just a little of the pointy tip off. Use like you say some kind of polishing compound, or valve grinding compound would probably work good. After all the idea here is to polish out irregularities in the seat, little microscopic pits from ethanol corrosion and not so much as to re drill the seat.
@@Rein_Ciarfella yes you'd really have to go easy with valve grinding compound because you figure, it is made to be used on hardened valve seats whereas the carburetor body is just cast aluminum
Hi, great video, it explains everything, I have a Stihl chainsaw, I cant find a tool to take the screw out of the lever so I can remove the needle valve, I've tried every allen wrench I have with no luck. Is there a special tool for this?
Legend has it they're still searching for the person that asked if it was supposed to be red to black or black to black. Rumor has it he was blown up attempting to disable a bomb. Some say it ran out of time from not being able to chosea color others say it blew up from the wrong combination.. others say that the legend isnt true and it just a myth.. right now I don't know and the anticipation of knowing the combination has caused me to lose sleep, my job and now she's taking the kids. everyone thinks I'm obsessed with combination including the judge who says I must complete atleast 25 hours in a electrical trade school before I can have joint custody of our 3 legged dachshund named sir Johnson. She can have my house she can take the kids the money and the vehicles... but I need my Johnson.. for the love of God what's the correct combination!!! For my Johnson.. Johnson.
Think of it this way… if you had a length of pipe and a rubber ball that would sit on the end when pipe was vertical, it would seal the pipe. Now take a hatchet and gouge the end in a few spots…. Put the ball back on. Won’t seal. (The needles are Viton tipped now to combat the use of ethanol in the fuel). Thanks for your thoughts bud. Keep on keeping….
Dont get a drill and drill out the carby seat, its aluminium and will carve it up. it will be a fluke if it works as an ex machinist i watch many tradie and labourer screw up a job free handing metal. I had a pitted Harley Davidson Brake calliper and i used a phillips screw driver with scotchbrite pad wrapped around it with wet and dry sand paper glued to it as it was tapered and like a honing tool oscillated the drill as i moved it up and down and honed the surface to remove the pitting.
love it, good idea as what to do when you don't have a cylinder hone handy! back in the day of rebuilding wheel cylinders at home we just would take some fine Emory cloth by hand.
