As an old service rifle competitor, I recommend the final flash hider assembly include a healthy slathering of copper anti-seize. Otherwise when you change the barrel at 8000 rounds, you'll find all that vaporized carbon welded all those parts to the barrel, which will take a week or more of soaking to remove. Great, common-sense vids. Wish we had them in my day.
It drives me nuts when I hear people (who are supposed to know what they're doing) say "point oh oh five inches". It's 5 thou. Thank You for not being of those so called experts. You're the real deal.
Thank you! I was starting to hammer my castle nut to get the retainer plug in the right spot and stopped, thinking “I better get one of those tools I saw in another video…” after watching this and trying again, I was just two short taps away. I pulled the plug out though and shined a flashlight down the hole to see when I was finally at the right spot. No single purpose tool needed after all! Fine by me. I hate getting tools that I’ll probably only use once and then it just sits there taking up space.
GunBlue490, I finally got my M1A standard walnut and I absolutely love it and I feel like I got really lucky because my rear sight adjustment is solid with no wobble and the action is rock solid with no wobble or play whatsoever in the stock, so I got lucky. I took it out to the range recently for the first time and it’s shooting 1.5 inch groups at 100 yards out of the box! Thanks for all your vids!
I had to go back to your 1932 Christmas video with Benny and your model 61 Winchester. Nice to imagine we're back in simpler times. Merry Christmas to all.
I'd just like to say that you are a wonderful and knowledgeable gentleman. I just recently found your channel, and have watched about everything. I was fortunate enough to grow up around and make friends with a retired school teacher that became a fantastic gunsmith and everything you say is spot on with what I've learned through the years. You are giving all of us fantastic information and knowledge and I'd just like to thank you for that. You have a way of talking that makes us feel like we know you! I'd be proud to shake your hand, thank u for your service to our country, thank u for the knowledge and have a blessed day sir.
Thanks for making videos on the m14 I've been wanting one for a long time starting to Gather parts now because the one I want is a m14 e2. im looking at buying the m14 being of next year ..I Just recently picked up the e2 stock and the stock's hardware so I think the hardest parts over. ..video 👍👍
I took my M1A to the range yesterday for a 200yd battle zero. As I checked the sights & gas system I notice the gas plug had back out a turn or two. And there is definitely a very slight amount of wobble in the rear sight aperture…..it’s less than 1/1000th. I retightened the plug & started shooting. It zeroed perfectly.
I often use a wood dowel rod for many jobs. If the dowel rod isn’t sufficient, I go for the brass. It somewhat surprises me how often the wood dowel is sufficient. I wouldn’t stick the wood dowel into the castle nut or anywhere there could be consequences if it splintered.
Thank you for the video,have a M1a fir a while but lack of ranges made it overkill but ove to shoot it. Have been keeping my eyes open for parts especially USGI surplus parts at value prices to be able to upgrade and take advantage of longer ranges in new area. If you have installed a scope mount I have acquired one for a night vision scope and a video for proper installation from a trusted source would be greatly appreciated,thanks
Very informative video, thank you. However, I do hope I won't have to do this with my M1A. It is on order so I don't know how much tuning it will require when I get it.
This isn’t related to this video but I have a cracked elevation knob on my Garand. It’s the T105e1 sight. How do I get it apart and put it back together with available kits out there. I’ve seen people ask and they are told to just buy a whole new sight set. Figured you’re the guy to go to. I also bought a lock bar sight to replace it while I figured out how to fix the elevation on the t105 and whenever I listen the lock bar to adjust my elevation knob moves and adjusts elevation. It’s annoying. Thank you sir if you read this.
I assume this can be done on the m1 garand. My accuracy is not what I've seen compared to other garands. I discovered, as you mentioned, the front site has some side to side movement.
Of everything, general maintenance in how to maintain accuracy after the fact is still what I’m most interested. I am hopelessly unprepared at doing these accurizing jobs myself but I have a good gunsmith who can do it for me. I just need to know how to keep it accurate since I keep hearing constantly from people that keeping this gun accurate is extremely difficult and any disassembling will loosen everything up. Given you have far greater expertise on this platform, I’d love to get your advice.
I get very distressed about those silly warnings. I've been disassembling my rifles to clean them for nearly 60 years, and none ever suffered loss of accuracy. I have very accurate rifles. Glass bedded rifles are no different. If anything, the epoxy repositions the action more precisely. Those who shoot in benchrest competition, striving for nth degree accuracy often glue actions and stocks permanently, but there are just as many competitive benchrest shooters who do not, and they compete in the same circles. As long as the action is stable and has a solid recoil surface with lateral support, it won't move. Removing the action doesn't affect a good bedding job. That's what epoxy bedding is all about.
@@GunBlue490 Awesome. I do wonder where these rumors come from. I keep hearing how disassembly will wear out the bedding and force you to do it all over again. Or how the EBR chassis went from a 1 MOA gun to a 3 MOA gun when soldiers disassembled it. No doubt they had no idea what they were doing and messed things up, which is why I want to know more information from someone who does understand the platform like you. Always had an interest in this platform but stayed away because a lot of people kept trashing it.
@@gameragodzilla The EBR has a strange stock that requires a specific torque value when attaching the stock to the rifle and disassembly will shift that if the torque isn't the same as recommended, leading to loose fittings or shifts in zero as the dimensions of the stock relative to the action have changed. So a quality and well cared for walnut stock shouldn't have this issue. If you invest in an EBR style stock, I recommend combing over the literature thoroughly and following assembly instructions or get a (Professional!) gunsmith to do it.
Where can I buy a nickel silver rod? Google doesn't come up with German silver. I see some for brazing rod. Can you drop a link where to find your favorite tool?
Itiny, maritime knife supply, online metals, Jantz supply, eBay, Aliexpress, Walmart, Artist supply,,, common, give google another shot..😅 I just typed your first sentence into google.
i have a scope question. So the leupold scopes like the 4X 22 scope has a parallax set for 60 yards. I was looking on their site and the specs and their biggest long range scope seem to have a parallax set for 150 yards. So is the 150 a compromise for say shooting 500 yards or closer? How would the 4x 60 yard parallax scope do for 500 yard shooting? Does it really matter that much? Doe they make scope that have a parallax farther out? thanks
No, scopes are not made for various settings, other than standard, rimfire, and in some cases, 100 yards for shotguns and muzzle loaders. Leupold determines that the best parallax (actually, it's the point of convergence, which is the elimination of parallax) setting for their standard fixed power scopes is 150 yards. That is the best compromise for the reasonable reduction of parallax at all intermediate ranges and extended ranges for which such a large game scope is normally used. Understand that parallax only occurs when the eye is not centered on the occular lens, and is only present when off center, and the degree to which the eye is not correctly positioned directly corresponds to the aiming error. That being said, long range shots are the most demanding for a shooter, and are typically combined with the greatest care in aiming anyway. So, the shooter really has no concern for parallax error if due diligence is maintained to position ones eye correctly. If you wish to shoot at 1,000 yards with a rimfire scope, just keep your eye centered, just as you would for looking down iron sights. Further, parallax error increases with longer scopes, due to the distance between the reticle and the focal lens. For that reason, shorter scopes, generally up to 9 power, have no gross alignment error, which is why few scopes of less than 10 power have objective focussing rings or side focus knobs. Perfect parallax elimination, regardless of eye position, is only obtained with Adjustable Objective scopes. You may want to visit my series on scopes that I did a few months ago for more in depth information on those questions.
If i buy a leupold, it will either be the 4x32 or 2x7x33 each costing $300. I tend to go for the higher power. Is there really any reason to choose a straight power over a variable? The only point ive ever heard is that the straight power is more rock solid reliable as it has little too no moving parts. Looking at using it for a 308 power level or shotgun. So a fair amount of recoil.
In my personal opinion, the Leupold 2-7x33 is one of the finest hunting scopes ever made, with the 1.5-5x20 being right with it. I've owned several 2-7 Leupold scopes over the last 50 years and they've each withstood countless rounds of many calibers; some significantly more potent than the .308. I've never had any failure; not even the slightest change in operation from the day they were brand new. Quite a number of my personal acquaintances found the same experience to be true. What you've heard about variables being less solid than fixed power scopes has absolutely no basis in fact. The mechanism that changes power is a very solid, permanently lubricated, and simple threaded ring that changes the internal focal length, and it's every bit as reliable as a threaded boiler valve, and will rotate just as reliably as your car's steering wheel. Leupold has tested them on pneumatic jack hammers and worse, and they guarantee them no matter what gun they are mounted on. The only reason to select a fixed power Leupold over a variable power Leupold is the price tag. There's absolutely no difference in reliability.
Hey GunBlue! I would really like to ask you a few questions about firearms manufacturing and design, but you don't seem to have a public email listed anywhere. Is there any way I can contact you to ask these questions?
@@GunBlue490 Alright then! So just to start, really quick, what is your industry experience? I think I remember what it is but go ahead and say anyway as I might have the details wrong.
@@arnox4554 In the larger sense of the word, I began my industrial experience as a precision electroplater, working for a company that made coaxial cable connectors for communications, US military, and aerospace applications. There, I learned much about metallurgy and I worked closely with machinists, all of which gave me an intimate understanding of many aspects of practical machine engineering. In my early years as a police officer, I was assigned the responsibility of training both recruit and veteran officers in all aspects of firearms. To enable me to provide expert maintenance of our departmental firearms, I received formal factory armorer's training at Smith and Wesson in Springfield, Mass, Sturm Ruger at Newport, NH, and Remington Arms at Illion, NY, and employed that training on a regular basis. Though the manufacturing processes of those companies differed considerably, those weeks gave me an intimate, first-hand understanding of all the modern techniques used in the firearms industry: forging, investment casting, milling, broaching, boring, fitting, heat treating, assembly, safety, care, maintenance, and the various finishing processes. However differently each company approached the manufacturing process, certain fundamentals remained the same, and were constant throughout. Among them was that firearms must never be lubricated with anything more than a wipe of fine oil for protection, or otherwise, only as specifically directed. Training in fitting and assembly is one aspect of the larger picture of an armorer's responsibilities. Because an armorer's bread and butter is the prevention and assessment of malfunctions, I was given a close look at the repair intake side of each facility and the myriad issues pertaining to guns being returned for repair. Because all firearms go through the hands of many workers during their manufacture, quality control, and final test firing, returns due to defects in the product were extremely rare to the point of virtual nonexistence. It's a simple fact that a gun that works today doesn't fail to work tomorrow without some cause, and the cause is very rarely due to natural mechanical failure. Alterations, modifications, abuse, accidental breakage, blow-ups, disassemblies that didn't get reassembled, and most commonly, perfectly functional guns that just "don't work" come in UPS deliveries daily. Such "don't work" guns are typically inspected, disassembled, degreased of excess oils and greases, tested, and returned to their owners with instructions to avoid the liberal application of lubricants in the future. "Oil destroys guns" was the common theme in each factory. I hope that answers your question.
@@GunBlue490 Yes, very thoroughly. Thank you! Have you heard of the new HCAR yet? (It's a modernized BAR, basically.) I saw that the rifle is priced at an MSRP of about $7,000. Does this price sound even halfway realistic to you, even including development, materials, new tooling, and manufacturing costs? And couldn't you use much of the same tooling and materials to build one of these as you could a regular AR15 anyway?
