How to add Grease to the Steering Box 

Yeah, it was tough to get the info we needed back in the day, we're spoiled these days. :)

Haha. thanks! I wish I could take credit, but I was able to get this info from a couple of other RU-vid videos. On a side note, if the input seal on your steering box is no good, you will get a little grease ooze out the box and onto the shaft. Not the end of the world, but it's a good indicator that the steering box may need a rebuild. :)

Awesome, good luck! :)

Awesome! I glad this video may help you out. :)

Awesome, glad I can help. 😀

You can do it!

While it is easier to add grease with the engine out, you should still be able to get'r done anyways. :)

No problem, happy to help!! :)

Good info

Two things about this comment. The point of filling your steering box is to leave basically no air space in there. As you turn the wheel side to side there is supposed to be enough grease in there that it can't just squish off to the sides and corners and not do its job. And secondly Ford designed the boxes location to be near the hot exhaust. The heat from the exhaust warms the box and softens the grease to help it flow as well.

@@classics289 The steering box being located to warm the grease for increased flow indicates that a less flowing grease is not desirable. Even with the steering box full of grease, the grease should be able to flow properly between the gears and the other components inside the steering box. I've seen the inside of steering boxes with the wrong grease and just having packed grease is not good enough.

Good luck!! :)

Yeah, I like how easy this car is to work on. :)

Who did you have rebuild it for you, and how much did it cost?

@@josemedeiros007I rebuilt it myself. Watch a video on saginaw steering box rebuild. Almost all steering boxes are near identical internally. Once you do one you can do them all. The kit to rebuild is literally $5-10 on rock auto

Awesome!!

Since we're being honest, I didn't know either, that's why I didn't do it on my last two Mustangs. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel LOL Andy! I feel much better now! Thanks

@@AndyKruseChannel The 64.5 that I have had since high school (1983) has not been greased. I may have to look into this!

It's one of those things that's always on the list that we continue to push off until later. Today is later. :)

Sorry Boss, I don't know that one. :)

I believe you are correct, I think it allows fine adjustment of the worm gear lash inside, I think. :)

I’ve taken one apart before. It moves the sector shaft up and down, which is the shaft that comes out the bottom and connects to the Pittman arm. It has three large teeth that connect with a box that has little ball bearings inside. The nut adjusts the responsiveness of turning the steering wheel to the turning of the actual tires by changing clearances internally. It will not tighten a loose-feeling steering wheel but it may help if you have a spot in the steering where the wheels don’t respond when you turn the wheel back and forth. You DO NOT want to move the set screw in the middle too much from the factory calibrated spot. Too tight and the steering wheel will slip and spin at a high speed when you try to turn. Too loose and you will have to turn the wheel too much before the tires respond to turning. Just be careful with tightening it if you are working with an older car, you don’t know if it already has been tightened before, there is only so much you can tighten before it just needs a rebuild and clearances are too far out of whack. If you want change how much force it takes to turn the steering (fix loose steering) you have to take the box out of the car. The side where the steering column attaches has a threaded cap with a locking nut you can tighten for that.

If it's anything like power steering, I wouldn't mess with it unless you know what you're doing. They could easily be ruined if that worm gear is too tight... and it doesn't take much.

​@@buttonysquare8501 😅

Yes it is. :)

I do not know on that, I'm just going with the research I found online. :)

Needle nose pliers should be able to grab it. If not, you can get a pair of Hemostats at Harbor Freight, they're like needle nose pliers, but have a locking mechanism to grab things (they're used in surgery). :)

Are you asking about Car Jacks or locations on the car of where to jack it up? :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I mean like what jack and jack stand are you using? Sorry to be unclear.

@@voltorb3246 For jack stands I am just using something generic, I do not recall the brands. For the floor jack, I have been using the 3 ton unit from Harbor Freight that has been pretty good to me. I'm sure there are better floor jacks out there, but it's hard for me to justify 2x and 3x the price on this kind of tool. I also use the QuickJack lift for my cars. You can see it hanging on the wall in the background of my videos. I get great clearance at the front and rear of the car when I use them, but due to the lift points on my Mustangs, there's limited access to the middle of the car (not often needed though). On more modern cars the lift points are more towards the side of the cars, which makes a little more space in the middle. I made a video on the QuickJack review on my channel, you should check it out! 😀

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks alot I appreciate it

Yes, manual box. :)

There is no difference between manual and power steering boxes.

Not likely. If there's play in the steering, it could be any number of the components between the steering wheel and the wheels themselves. :)

I didn’t have a grease zerk either, just put the end of the grease tube in the steering box like I did. 🙂