Need more outlets in your garage ?. Learn how easy it is. Lots of newer homes built today only have one outlet. So without busting up the walls add some new ones. www.askmediy.com Shopping list www.amazon.com...
Oh my God LOL. Man, I was Laughing my ass off. This man is soooo coooooool. I like the video and every move he did. The way he explaining , the way he showing and talking you can tell he is a fun guy and thanks so much for your sense of humor . It's so much easy to remember those kind of things with someone like Dominic who got positive attitude . Very excellent video. I am an electrician and I just came here to give a support to Dominic to continue posting videos with so much positive energy. Good job man.
I just added three outlets to my garage. I never touched anything before dealing with electric but thanks to your video my project turned out great!! To bad I cant share pictures. Thanks for sharing a very detailed and informative video!!
I don't understand why builders just put one outlet in garages, or why that's even minimum code. You just end up with home owners running extension cords everywhere.
Awsome job. Never asked for like or subscribe. Good work. I was on the right track with my project. Just needed bit of help. Great video that made sense Thanks
Ehh, you are not supposed to install sheathed wires in a conduit. It is supposed to be THHN. Simply removing the sheath will not bring it up to code either, as the wires need to be individually labeled. Again, you need THHN in order to meet code.
Very helpful. Thank you for putting these videos together. I've bought some rental properties over the last few months and have been doing all the projects myself. You've helped me a ton with your videos. Keep up the great work. I'm sure I speak for everyone else that follows you in saying you have saved us all a TON of money!!! Thank you.
@hotrodd100 Thank you. Yeah something is really screwy there. That's three breakers, one main, one circuit breaker and than the fuse. You really should just install a whole new line from a new breaker in the main panel to the new outlets in your garage. But really maybe a pro to at least look at it would be best considering you have a fuse box. I really don't like them at all. Not in today's world
@hotrodd100 It is going to depend on many amps are being pulled. As far as removing your fuse box, yes you could do that but I really can't say without seeing the whole picture. These are questions that I need to be very careful on answering for your safety
I am not electrician but from what I have read I was under the impression you cannot put rolex inside conduit because of heat generated by the wires is that true?
You should not cover over connections you should have used a open back box . Running jacketed wire in emt is not allowed in my state and you should have pig tailed your outlets instead of using all 4 screws on the outlet . If a outlet goes bad the rest of the line will be out pig tailing is a better way to go .
Redneck Ya, you’re correct. He wired the outlets in series. Should’ve done what you’ve said which is called parallel circuit (pigtails). That way if one outlet goes out, the rest still have power. Still he described the installation process very straightforward and precise. Not hating on him, lol
You're a funny guy Dominick, thanks for making it appealing and easy for us DIYers. (Distance between the pinky and thumb! What if ya got small hands??)
I was going to do this because I have a lot of extra 12/ 2 romex, but an electrician told me you can't run romex thru conduit because of heat issues and code. So I figured I'll just cut the sheathing off and run the individual wires thru the conduit. Electrician said I can't do that either....once removed from sheathing it's not ANSI approved. So I have 200 feet of romex just sitting around🙄
Hi, what type of 4 inch box did you use to align the holes in the gang box behind the 4 in box for your gfci receptacle? I have tried different boxes and none of them seem to align the holes good enough to do a surface mount.
I've done basic electrical (replacing switches, outlets, fans, etc.) and find the video great, but questions about the GFI. I currently have an outlet in my garage, but it is connected to a GFI in another part of the house. Can I still change the outlet to a GFI and connect it to the other GFI or can I bypass the new GFI completely?
You only need one GFI on a circuit, anymore is redundant. The reason why it's usually mandatory to have one in a garage is because the garage typically is on its own dedicated circuit. And GFI's are mandatory in areas considered wet locations, which a garage is labeled as.
every friken house i move to got one outlet and one light bulb in the garage goddam it, i don't understand why these stupid contractors just ignore the fact that a garage is not only to park a car.
I love request and ideas that work. Thank you very much. I will see what I can do. The hardest thing about making videos is that I need the job or something at my own house to show. I will work on it. Thanks again.
askmediy I need more outlets yes cause fried the one I have!!! Ummm ...yea... Oh now that would be a nice video!!! I need lights!!! I'm by myself w/kids... dark out bad ... dang solars don't work in shade...a lot of trees...
Love this guy, ehhh!!! So much easier listening to him explain things as you go through what he is saying....I put 3 extra outlets on each garage wall & I was done in no time........"I got Pow-werr Ba-bee!!!" Haha!
I like that you chose not to tear open the wall and run conduit ....I didn't even think if that and I almost started tearing into the walls ... I my science and lab classes at school were the same way .......fantastic video
I agree with Bill - the 1st box NEEDs to be an extension box (will make the outlet exposed). With that most people NEED to know that you are using EMT Conduit (known as thin wall) and not the Rigid Conduit. We are prohibited from using Romex in Chicago - however if your area does allow Romex - you probably could make the tubing easier and use the electrical PVC or ENT tubing. With the metal tubing shown (just as with electrical PVC (gray tube) or ENT(blue tubing and can be flexible) ) you'll need conduit connectors. With this project I'd say that after adding the metal 1-gang handy box extender on that first outlet - punch out the side of the extension box (with that laundry mat coin) and attach the 1st piece of conduit with the 1/2" EMT connector. Since EMT is metal - it carries electricity and is that you would ground. use a grounding clip or screw to ground the extension box. That way if the hot wire get lose (or mice chews it) and the hot wire touches the metal EMT tube - it will pop the fuse - rather than energizing that entire run and possible killing anyone who touches the tub or box. Make sure that the connector is screwed on tight to the extension box and that the screws are tight on the EMT. I am not sure how the 1st metal box was mounted into the 1st 1-gang box - the holes don't line up. In addition to this - other things to consider showing would be: 1. how to ream out the EMT tubing after cutting the tube. vise-grips can be used if needed - but a EMT pipe reamer would make it easier. This will protect the wires from shredding. 2. It looked like a 3/4" EMT was used (bigger than needed) - for just 2 wires - all is needed is 1/2" 3. I said 2 wires because after attaching the ground to the EMT - and if the Tube is connected to all metal boxes - the system (EMT + metal junction boxes) are grounded (The EMT IS the grounding cable - a green cable can be used if wanted). 4. Since the entire EMT run is grounded - I find that it is best to wrap the outlet electrical connection with electric tape before screwing them into the plates.
Thank you so much for posting this! After contacting five electricians who never bothered to respond, we were able to add two much-needed outlets to our garage following your instructions. I guess they felt that the job wasn't big enough to bother with. I've subscribed to your channel, so you're probably going to see more comments from me as I work through the various projects I want to get done. Happy Holidays!
depending on the current breaker amperage, it might be a long way to the breaker box to add a new one without tons of sheet rock work. Most of these are additions aren't really calculation breaker capacity so they're not up to code. Electricians probably realize most people won't pay for a big job to rewire all the way to the breaker box.
The 2 1/2 car garage on the house I just bought has 1 outlet. :I There's a flimsy extension cable run from it all the way to the door opener too. The cord barely will stay plugged in, it's so old and loose. Major upgrade needed. Probably a new breaker panel, outlets on all walls, and lighting on a separate breaker.
Using the center screw only on your receptacles is not adequate, you should also fasten the receptacles using the top and bottom screws. They are typically supplied with the box cover and come with kep nuts or serrated flange nuts.
You can run the romex through conduit, but you must consider it a cable assembly and only allow 53% fill in the conduit, requiring 3/4" conduit. It would be better to just strip tje sheathing and pull tje conductors that way
depends where you are working. In Michigan I applied for an inspection and added receptacles in my basement using thin wall and running romex inside the thin wall. This was approved by the inspector. and I once again did the same in my sons garage as shown above. it depends where you are regarding how you use the romex vs THHN
Why are power outlets made out of metal!!! Doesnt it conduct electricity??? Yes they get grounded etc but shouldnt that damn box be covered with some insulated paint? Liquid porcelana or some stupid shit???
Only 2 thing i would have done different 1st I would have made a box offset on the pipe to secure the pipe on the wall with 1/2" one hole straps, by the way you don't need a pipe bender you could have done it work ure hands I do it all the time, or bought 4' Pipe at home depot with the offset on them already on them, they sell short stubs for do it ure self home improvements, 2nd I would have installed the bench receptacles up side down with the ground up...anybody knows why? If you want to know ask me here....
I’m in a renters property and I’m allowed to do modifications to the house as long as they’re done correctly so thank you very much because this is going to help me so much
You talk too fast and don't explain what things are AND mean for a woman with nooo electrical experience wanting to add an electrical outlet at the bottom of steps inside a garage to a double light switch maybe 4 feet away. Funny, but nooo help for a job that is much less involved.
Line, and load, got it. Now all I gots to know is about the light switches, and how thems fit in. So I will have to research those refined elaborations concerning this most prestigious subject.
Great Video. For all you DIYs, Of course this is fine. But as a Contractor, there are a couple of things that I would of added/done. 1) Yes, I agree the the other guys, use a 4s extender with a SI opening in the rear 2) I didn't see offsets in the conduit or Strapping. strapping needs to be 12" from box max, and every 10; max on the conduit runs. 3) Grounding. VERY IMPORTANT. I see the when you grounding the second box, your ground wire from the left (not the right) was mounted to the ground screw. This is not the input ground, and this is the one that should be mounted to the screw, that way if you need to changer or add a device, you don't have to remove the ground wire. Second, with metal conduit, you really don't need a ground wire. 4) Daisy chain connections at the receptacle are ok, but is programmatic if the outlet goes bad, then the ones down the line go bad. Pigtails are the way to go. yes, a bit more time, a bit more material, but if any of those 3 outlets goes bad, then the rest still work. 5) Make sure your load doesn't exceed the max amperage of your outlets (I like around 10 for 15A or 13 for 20A max) This is all technical stuff. For you DIYers, there if you get as far as the instructional video, is a great reference.
Jose Macias- Hmmm, if you have GFIC, you truly do not need a ground. It compares coming and going current. If there is tiny leak in milli-Amp, it will cut OFF. I am not sure what is in the code?
Ground, ground, ground. An extra ground path won’t kill you, a corroded/loose ground path in that conduit later... Not to mention excessive voltage drop to your tools. More mischief is caused by poor ground than anything else.
One thing to note for the people considering doing this yourself. Code states that anything carrying wires (conduit, romex, etc.) has to be strapped depending on what you're using the distance of the straps varies. It's to help with the weight pulling all your work out of the wall and possibly damaging the wires and exposing the copper inside. All this information can be googled.
Thank You! I appreciate the basic info w/o tons of disclaimers, fear tactics and product plugs i.e. "Now install this conduit from homedepot and these special cases from Fancy Fashion McSchmantzy..." lol! Keep up the the positive succinct instruction. I subscribed. (y)
4:26 your technically supposed to put in a box that has a cut out in the back so the connections in the existing electrical box in the wall can remain accessible
@@Askmediy you used a box with knockouts instead of one with a cut out, that technically makes those connections not accessible without taking your new system apart
Very helpful video thank you I had a question I have a similar situation but I want to know how do you run power from a sub panel that's in the garage to a new 110 or 220 outlet instead of running power from an existing socket as you did in this video please help
Why didnt you run two outlets in one box that would had given four plug ins & wouldnt needed to run all the extra boxes in a line you could have also pluged in an ac outlet box with any number of outlets on it rather then doing all these extra boxes.
Some errors here such as not using a 4square box with the S1 opening in the back At least the splices are somewhat “accessible “ with some extra work..... Using Minnies for support would be the way to go so you don’t need box offsets and an entire conduit bending class. Not supposed to put Romex in pipe anymore but I did it for years until the Code was change a couple cycles ago. Nice job considering the skill level. Proper grounding is happening ..... A few rookie mistakes but I don’t see a need to chew this guys ass over it ..... been doing the work for over 25 years & I have seen bare bailing wire (ENERGIZED) yes, hot running through barns and garages and all kinds of other crazy ass dangerous stupidity take place in my time so this ain’t so bad and he observed ground and down stream of the GFCI
Although I enjoyed your video, you made a major code violation when you buried the initial connections behind the box. That's not allowed anywhere that I know of. You should have used an extender box, basically the same box without a back. This would have allowed you to make connections without hiding them behind a box. Also, there are limits to the amount of outlets that you can have on one circuit.
How is placing a new box over that blue box any different than a junction box cover? I see no issues with that application. Say he just wanted to nix that outlet all together but still have the power going to the lights he stated continued on that circuit? He would simply wire nut the hot to hot, neut to neut, G to G and throw a cover over it.
accessibility is the problem with putting the box on top like he did , . I also dont think that romex is permitted to be enclosed in a raceway due to the conductors insulation (that code rule may have changed)Metal raceway (emt in particular)i always pull a ground , emt connectors set screw type can loosen and or corrode compromising the ground . As far as number of outlets im not aware of any restrictions, as long as the connected load doesnt exceed the amperage rating, and i always try to keep lights and receptacles separate that way if you pop the fuse or breaker for the receptacles you dont loose the lights
Thanks for posting this video. Just added 3 new outlets in my garage with your help. Glad there are people out there that help out the DIYers of the world. Keep up the good work.
Okay... I have no experience what so ever with doing this type of work. Looking forward to trying this this weekend in my garage. Should be ELECTRIC!!.... SMH.
It is 9:01 a.m. right now. I've been searching for what you show in this video since 5:30 a.m. this morning. Thank you! But I thought it was not a good idea to run Romex through conduit because of heating. Could you comment on that please? Thank you again!!!
Conduit & EMT are two distinct electrical products. Fittings are not interchangeable. We generally use tubing cutters on EMT. And file all cuts. Certainly enjoy his tape measure. Pigtailed grounds need a mechanical fastening to meet code. Copper crimp is best ! Are the devices tamper resistant ? Certain localities require a licensed electrician to perform work. And a permit.
Pull the wires out of the Romex sleeve (it’s very easy) before you put them in the conduit. There is a NEC code limit to the amount of Romex you can run in a conduit (6’, I think) just to overcome areas of danger to the cable. Longer runs in conduit can overheat.
Wires inside romex are not individually marked. NEC requires ANSI markings for installed wires, meaning pulling the jacket off the romex and using the individual wires in the conduit is still against code. Stupid rule but it is there.
@@ruvimtrofimovich That’s a true point! In this particular case, he just needs to overcome the prohibition of exceeding the 6-foot maximum to running the covered wire in conduit to avoid areas of exposure to danger (like the bench back area). The code specifies a maximum, but no minimum. The marking requirements of NEC 310 should be able to be met by retaining enough of the sheath that covers the wires at points where the wires enter or leave the junction boxes (as long as that portion of the sheath contains the required markings for AWG, ampacity, and wire type/location suitability. In a residential application, in a narrow application, like protecting otherwise exposed wires at the back of a garage workbench, where the wire type did not differ materially from that used in the rest of that branch circuit, I believe that would be compliant.
I enjoyed your video but i have a few questions. 1 do you have to start your circut from an existing outlet or can i punch a new hole in my wall to the garage? (Unfinished basement, attached garage) 2 is it true that you shouldnt use romex inside of a pvc conduit but instead should use THHN or THWN wire? 3 finally is it essential to install a GFCI outlet on the first receptacle of the circut? Thank you
Awesome vid, best one on RU-vid for this!! Quick question: If I'm going to be doing this, but instead of in my garage, the existing outlet is outdoors and all the new outlets will also be outdoors..does each box need a GFI or just the one at the beginning of the circuit? THANK YOU
Not bad. You should have pointed out a very important step to people that after cutting EMT you need to ream/de-burr it so that it fits couplings & wire does not get sliced open on it. Aside from that, the only other thing I would have added was take a moment to analyze what is already on that circuit. Especially in older homes there can already beca lot of stuff on that 20A and it may be advisable to run a new 20A circuit. Case in point, my garage outlet (just one), garage door opener, garage light, basement lights, basement outlets, and oddly, the kitchen stove, are all on that circuit. I did not want to be adding a drill press, chop saw, and space heater to that circuit. It’s an important thing to analyze and consider what you need, want, and what already exists as a draw on that 20 amp breaker. I opted to run two garage circuits actually, a 15 & a 20. The 15 is for smaller stuff, radio, battery charger, vac, outdoor security lights, space heater, etc, while the 20 is for my higher draw tools such as air compressor, drill press, jack hammer, chop saw, etc. I also put in a blanked box to power an EV charger if I or a future owner ever decide to get one (20A will only work for a light duty EV charger fyi). The slight downside to adding circuits is you’re supposed to pull a permit & get it inspected. While it is a hassle in most minds & a lot of people don’t, the inspection is to be certain the install was done properly & the house will not burn down and possibly kill someone, which is a good thing in most minds. Especially so for DIYers who don’t want to hire a pro but may inadvertently create a fire hazard and lose a child as a result. So if you’re going to DIY, pay for the peace of mind at least and rest easy that things are safe & proper. Great vid though. You might want to add decaf to your tool box.
I highly recommend you make all splices inside of junction boxes doesn't matter if a commercial or residential application N.E.C Required I don't agree with the grounding obviously everything is supposed to be grounded but you're supposed to use a pigtailto the ground and screw any pigtail and another pigtail on the receptacle itself. Take it from an electrical mechanical technician
If there's already wires going into the load of the GFCI - how do I know if theyre daisy chained to the lights and nothing else? If I do what you did and piggy tailed the hots and nuetrals, it won't have the GFCI protection - and if there's something else downstream of the GFCI other than the lights that would be an issue. I tried individually putting everything in wire nuts but when it was all said and done I couldn't fit the receptacle into a deep 4 gang box...
You should loop the wires around the posts instead of going straight into the back. I've seen so many screw ups from that. Also, why don't you use pigtails? I do like the pipe, so many vids on here slack on the pipe game.
I was trying to found out why I have power from my house to my garage so I hooked up a plug in and I have power but when I plug my air compressor in it doesn’t want to work what did I do wrong
not a bad video but wouldn't pass in Canada. all wires including ground must be under a compression connector. you cannot twist grounds and terminate one end, the ground from the power feed must hit the ground screw first. also you cannot use a 4" box over top a flush mount. as this hides the connections behind. you must use an extension ring.a;so you would need a deep ring as the outlets reduce the depth.
why didn't you show them how you installed them? Don't be afraid to do it a couple times for the videos. you obviously know alot of stuff, and these are great refresher courses you provide people.and thanks man, i like to pump myself up with install videos before I start a construction project
How did you mount the first metal box to the plastic box already in the wall? I tried to do that and the hole spacing is different between the metal one and the plastic one.
You should be able to get a box with an open back to fit your existing one. You may need a spacer. They are plastic and color is based on size of the cap
Hi, I got a question for ya. Do you got a video showing how to take hard wiring at flood light and making it into a female plug in, a double plug in receptacle? Outside at the roof/facial board. I got a camera now and it's only plug in type. Got to plug it in for camera to work, so I thought I might be able to utilize the flood light wires to a receptacle or something, since camera is going right next to the existing flood light up there on facial board.
