I find doing the alignment can change chain tension, so I always recheck chain tension after aligning. It can also slightly change after tightening the axle, so a final check is good too. Nice video mate.
I have a 2014 Ninja 300 and you can't rely on the alignment marks on the swing arm (the service manual states this). Use a straightedge to make sure the front and rear sprockets/chain are aligned with each other. I always adjust the slack first and then align the sprockets/chain which aligns the rear wheel.
The service manual tells you to do adjust the chain while it’s on the kickstand and I have found out that it is actually very important to follow that rule .. I adjusted my chain on a stand just like you did and it was different when I took it off the stand just heads up
@@irvingarcia7880 good question man I have no idea lol the service manual does not specify all it says is to be sure that the tick marks are set to the same mark on both sides ! This was such an issue for me man that I took my bike in to finish the work I had mostly finished
thanks for the video can you please explain to me how to get the ride side of the bikes alignment mark to move , the left side is a lil bit higher than the right side is this bad?
Good video, including the instructions on how to use torque wrench. I also like the moment with on-screen caption and graphics, you could use more of it in moments when you turn away from camera and are difficult to hear with all the crickets making their noise.
I searched this video purely because I'm having difficulty aligning the wheel since the notched plate on the right has wiggle. I didn't expect you to answer my problem but you did! But can you please let me know how you know the little plate should be full forward before assessing the notches?
The way I figured you could either have both all the forward, back or guess what the middle was on both. I didnt like guessing, and by having the plate forward instead of back, when I tightened the wheel the plate would stay all the way forward. If it was all the way back. It could potentially shift forward with the movement. So to me forward was constant on both sides and didnt shift during tightening. Seemed like the best call
I would push both all the way forward yes. If one is all the way back, and the other all the way forward, that could throw off your alignment. I found it easiest to keep both pushed all the way forward
Man I guess I don't have the tools yet to adjust my drive chain slack. I just tried it and I not only cracked the chain adjuster caps but I couldn't loosen the axle nut and even if I did I wouldn't get the torque settings right. When I gave up and stopped before I did too much damage I also noticed that my cotter pin was a tad smaller that the factory one. I just ordered new chain adjuster caps and the correct cotter pins for the bike including a swing arm stand.. My work has all the necessary tools for the bike so i'll wait for that.
@@XxS1l3nTxa1Mx I believe they are more track oriented. But they are awesome for the road too. Still have long life, but the grip is stupid. When I first road my bike with them on I actually thought the dealership had bent my handlebars the grip was so much better. I know that analogy sounds almost bad, but it was incredible when I realized how firmly I felt I was planted to the road in the corners.
+gundamfanatic sorry for the mix up, towards and backwards, the chain would tighten up and then loosen, I just sold my ninja 300 not to long ago, but thanks for the reply
I liked pushing the wheel all the way forward (and tightening to match on both sides) because I knew I was starting at the same point of tightness on each side of the swingarm.
+MADdaDJ yea I had that problem a lot with my 300. I think when I swapped my front sprocket out I stretched a portion of my chain, causing it to be uneven.
.8 - 1.2 inches of slack was what I was aiming for. I guess if you want to get a ruler and measure 1 inch of travel that would be a good idea in case your visual estimate is way off.
