I recommend leaving an old brake pad against the pistons when you depress them so it's an even press and keeps them from pressing out on the opposite side. And I'm wondering why u chose not to change the brake fluid at the same time. I'm looking at purchasing a ninja 400 soon and your video have been very informative 👍
Yeaaaaa, wish you coulda saw my face when I pushed the one piston in and the other popped out. Notes for next time. I'm used to working on cars so changing the fluid with the pad change didn't seem necessary. It's not incredibly dark compared to the fluid I have on hand so I left it. Glad to hear you're joining the crew!
Nice video. I can tell you from watching you tighten these calipers you are not tightening quite enough. They might not come loose but should be tighter than you are wrenching. If you are to check with a torque wrench to specs you will see you are slightly under tightening. I'm not trying to be critical of your work just from experience wrenching my whole life I would like to help keep you safe and from something coming loose.
Really nice video, thanks. Just something you might add is a list of things you need to do the job. I'm the kind of idiot who starts the job at the same time as watching the video and then finds out he needs grease and clamps that he doesn't have. Totally my fault but don't forget how many of us dumb-asses there are.
Curious about road grime and grit sticking to applied grease? Ordering a shop manual for my 400 maybe it will or won't recommend grease applications to friction surfaces 🧐 Torque specifications are important to me because I am ocd/perfectionist and determines properly seated components and not just half assing and saying "that should be tight enough" ensuring long duration under heavy use with less chance of part failure due to loosening or too much torque possibly introducing stress fractures and fatigue. Love my 400 ...simply amazing to ride!!! In my personal opinion shop manual specs are necessary for saying "job well done"
@@newportcity32 I have noticed a thick sticky sludge of grease, brake dust and grit near moving automotive brakes in the past which possibly impeded motion more than it helped especially in colder environments. Over time the grease creates a slurry of sticky paste changing its consistency in essence becoming a substance that sands and abraids parts surfaces...whatever Kawasaki recommends is what will happen to my mean green machine...
