It was freakin' great that you explained how each piece of the transmission of power from the handles all the way to the wheels works. It's easier to repair things when the concept of the system is understood. Thanks!
Excellent instructions for adjusting Toro snowblower gears!!!My Toro 724 snowblower reverse gear is not working!!! First forward gear is barely moving!!! Thank you, I will follow your timely instructions, to hopefully take care of this problem!!!
My almost 30 year old MTD adjustment is actually adjusted up by the shifter knob just below the panel. Just in case things don't look familiar in this video. The shifter connects to a threaded rod under the control panel. You pull the cotter pin and pull the pin on the rod out and spin it on the threads. I still took the cover off below to see where my adjustments were getting me.
This procedure is how you would adjust an Ariens as well. I have a video on my channel showing this if anyone is interested. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Nice explanation, i have a troyilt 2600 from 2012 in great shape but its starting to slip. im assuming its the friction disk. I'll be ordering the the disk and any belts it has as well. thanks for the video! i know it wasn't a how to change video but every comment helps the yt algorithm lord!
Great cable adjustment tip, so I went out and did this adjustment, ll cables are adjusted properly, yet my Troy-Bilt 3090XP Snow Blower still won't get going! - Already replaced the Drive Belt (Auger's too), replaced the Friction Wheel; the rotating disc is clean as a whistle (USED BRAKE PARTS CLEANER ON IT), the bar the friction wheel slides on is nicely - greased, all gears greased too!. - Auger shaft got greased, and augar gear box topped off. Auger is moving just fine. When I press the drive handle, the machine slightly moves, then stops; forwards or backward. No weird noises... Could this be something to do with the steering mechanism (two little handles under the grips - cables go to a planter gear assembly that controls wheels locking up for turning? Those got cleaned out, and copious amount of below -40 deg F. grease packed into them.
Agreed. Most of this stuff is not overly complicated. People just need to be pointed in the right direction which is why I started this channel. Thanks again for watching. Cheers
I've never experienced this but maybe its possible? I would think it would have to be in the Exact center of the friction plate which would be pretty unlucky after an adjustment. I do mention that it should be slightly left or right of center when adjusting, depending on R1 or F1. Thanks for watching. Cheers
@@brantsmallenginerepairs search for "chunking friction wheel" at the snowblowerforum site. The OP concludes that the rubber was torn up due to the wheel engaging at the center of the rotating platter.
@@brantsmallenginerepairs When you see tears in the rubber, are they usually aligned with the axis of the wheel (you might say across the tread), or aligned with the circumference (you might say along the tread), or somewhere in between (diagonal)? When I say wheel, I mean the one with rubber, that works like the wheel of a car.
@@wryanddry2266 like I said, I'm sure it's possible, I've just not personally experienced this due to a proper adjustment which is part of the reason for this video. Thanks again for pointing out this possibility. Cheers
Thanks for the great video, very helpful. Question, just purchased older model and getting a lot of racket in the gear box area in high and reverse. What should I look for? Thanks much.
I would be looking at the friction disc and friction wheel. The two parts that mate to drive the wheels. Next, check the gears to make sure you're not missing teeth. Hope this helps. Cheers
what if when adjusted as far as possible but it still wont move far enough over to the right of center to get R2? I even tried the 3 rd adjustment hole moving it bracket clockwise as far as it will go. Should I replace the speed cable?
The cables will stretch over time so changing the cable might work. How old is your machine?. Did you take the belly pan off when doing the adjustment to see how your adjustment affected the movement of the friction disc? Maybe try adjusting it the opposite way I did it. Start with the handle in R2 and adjust the cable to allow the friction disc to go further right then retighten. Also, make sure the shaft that the friction disc slides on is clean and free of rust. Rust could be preventing it from sliding properly. Hope this helps. Let me know how you make out. Cheers
Consider removing the wheel on that side and inspect clutch assembly for power steering system. Also, if there are 2 holes on the wheel shaft, make sure your pin is in the inside one. Thanks for watching. Cheers
Hi Can you help me, I need to remove the wheels but no idea how , I remove the screw that holding the wheel but it seems stuck,any advice is greatly appreciated
This is a very common problem with snowblower wheels. I would first try some penetrating fluid. If that doesn't work, you might need to use some heat around the hub to try and break the rust free. When you get the wheel off, make sure to clean the axle of rust and apply some anti-seize to prevent it from happening again. Hope this helps. Cheers
On my Troy Bilt 2410 the gear is turning just fine but the drive shaft is not. The wheels turn independent of the gear so the engine won't drive (move) the unit. When I look under the gear turns but the shaft does not. What in the world might be my problem?
I do not empty the oil, just ensure the dipstick is on snug. As for the fuel, I typically turn the fuel shutoff OFF if there is one installed. If not, sometimes I clamp the fuel line with fuel line pliers, a hemostat or vice grips. To prevent fuel from leaking from the tank, I try to make sure there is less than half a tank or use a sandwich bag under the cap and screw it back on tight to prevent spillage. Hope this helps. Cheers
Ok so i have an old mtd and did 4 driveways and put it in garage for about hour. Then went to load it up and the gear select lever itself is not moving. Any insight on that?
I have a similar issue but different machine and different linkage. I can get into different forward gears, but not reverse. I just watched a video that showed the axle that the friction disc slides on is basically corroded, rusty and won't allow the friction disc to move. He used a wire wheel on an air powered drill to clean the axle and then had to break the friction disc loose from its position so he could clean the area where the disc sat. Once it was cleaned and moving freely, he coated the axle with marine grease. Marine because it won't wash away and will create a barrier from water. I'll be digging into mine tomorrow to see if that's my problem and get it fixed. Hope this helps.
@brantsmallenginerepairs Unfortunately that wasn't the cause of my issue. The axle is is great shape. What I have learned sense, but haven't had the chance to dive into yet, is that I could have some bushings that are worn out causing things to move around or not not stay where they're supposed to be, which then allows for the binding between the trunion and the shift forks. Once the sub-zero Temps go away in a few days, I'll crack the case back open and start looking at that.
I is normal for that cable to really be tight in R1 and R2 ? my 2410 troybilt does not have that adjustable bracket just a non-adjustable one with 5 or six holes. just worried that cable being that tight in 1, R1and R2 may snap, thanks. wonder if that adjustable bracket will fit in place of my non adjustable one.
I'm not sure what you mean by non-adjustable, as it should have a way of adjusting it. Does the cable fit into 1 of the 5 holes you referred to? If so, can you try a different hole and does that make any difference? Is the cable tight in the forward gears as well or just reverse?
@@brantsmallenginerepairs it's in the 3rd hole in order to get both reverses to work, it has the nonadjustable hole plate, 6th is the loosest, by the time you get to R2, it's a bear to pull the lever into the R2 slot, that cable is really tight at R2. inside the belly, everything is lubed and clean, all the new units are the same, can't see how that thin cable can last long.
@@johnd911 if the 3rd hole is the only one that allows all the gears to work, then that's the proper hole. If there's no other way of adjustment, then this setting is correct. The cable is wound and should provide decent tensile strength along the length of the cable. The issues I see are when folks store their machines outdoors and the cable starts rusting and weakening the metal strands.
