Over time or after knocking the TS55 it may become out of adjustment. In this video I show the 4 main areas to check and adjust. The excellent Festool US Supplemental Manual can be found here: service.festoolusa.com/media/...
I got a dewalt track saw and this saved my life. Dewalts adjustments are pretty much the same and that paper thickness toe in was a nice tip which make sence. Thanks alot!
Well done Peter. I dropped my TS 55 saw. Thank you so much for the video. Always so well explained. You are always a great reference point with regards to festool and other items. You started me on my road to purchasing festool. My TS55 was my first purchase after watching your channel. Thank you.
I have just ordered a TS55 so very useful information. The new saw should be here in the next few days so I will bookmark this for future reference. Thank you for sharing your views.
BRILLIANT!! I knew I had an issue with my tracksaw, now I think I can adjust it and not take into a store to sort it. Thank you for the very informative video. Alun.
Great video with great information. I learned more from you than I did on other videos. I was also impressed on how clearly you explained everything. Thank you for your help!!
My 45 degree is off by at least 2-3 degrees from the factory. I'm very fortunate to have found your video as I was contemplating how I would use the warranty to send this thing out or find a Festool rep to take it to. Looks like I should be able to do this on my own so thank you kindly
I too dropped my TS75 from a 3 meter height and it crack the blade housing and total ruined the accuracy. It took a year to get around replacing the housing and tuning it up but, still not spot on. Will try to adjust the saw a bit more to get it riding properly along the guide and get a true 45 degree bevel. Thanks! You video was very timely.
A fantastic video, i need to calibrate my TS55 and had been looking at the cost of sending it to festool to be done. Quite clearly it's a very simple process and this video offers extremely clear and precise instruction. Thank you for going to the time and effort to produce this conrent
This is a very good video - it contains complete and correct info, you speak clearly and the picture quality is very good. Congratulations and thank you.
Thank you very much for making this video. I was looking for days on how to adjust my saw 0 degrees cut and I couldn’t find the information anywhere, not even on the supplemental manual.
What awesome procedures for us to learn. Wow! Is there NO end to our "gifted" Mr Peter Parfitt? I expect that many will be using these "goodies" to get our "Festool" saws in perfect alignment. Thanks a "bundle" Peter"! You can be assured I will be doing this "post haste"!
Very helpful video. This will help a lot of people i think. Festool is a great tool, but because of the price i always buy makita. But i'm a festtool fan!
My ts55req was cutting 1/8 inch away from the splinter guard, thanks for explaining how to align it. My ts55req has the adjustment screws on the bottom, different than the one in the video. I know what happened, I sent my TS55 req to festool last year for adjustment for lousy bevel cuts and they adjusted it but it no longer lined up with my rail/splinter guard.
Hi Everyone, I normally try and give at least a short reply to every comment - please forgive me but I am up to my eyes in work and am only replying to queries. I will, at least, press the "Like" button in order to acknowledge your various kind remarks. Cheers. Peter
Very good excelent , i love ts 55 Festool 😉 tracksaw perfect , tool of the highest quality , Festool is only quality , without fear of error , thank you Peter.
@@NewBritWorkshop Yes I know, it is a tool at the end of the day but I still winced ;) I make my own too with the Parf guide system...............mk1 :)
Very informative as always. However, Peter is fortunate in having an older model of the TS55. My saw, purchased in 2020 has a rather different arrangement. As a few people have noted the adjustment of the body of the saw with respect to the sole plate is done by loosening 4 screws on the underside of the saw, although the two at the front of the saw can be tightened up from above as Peter showed, at least enough to keep things in place when you turn the saw over. Also the vertical adjustment is using one grub screw located at the base of the protractor, which is very straightforward. I cannot find any separate adjustment for the 45 degree setting. I think that if the vertical setting is correct then the design of the protractor means that if the saw is tilted to the 45 degree position and hits the 45 degree stop, it must also be correct. I find it more accurate to check the 90 degree setting by simply cutting some stock about 300mm long, then standing it on end with the cut face pressed on a flat reference surface, eg a cast iron machine table. Slide a reference square up to it and see how it looks. Any error is magnified by the ratio of the length of the stock to the thickness, so you can get the setting spot on.
Excellent video! I do not do a lot of 45deg cuts; however, my TS55 runs a bit away from the splinter guard when making such a cut---that's just the way it was from the factory. Therefore, the saw must has to be shimmed upwards from the base by the amount that it extends away from the cut (this assumes that the blade is a perfect 45deg). So, after shimming it the saw has to be re-aligned to the splinter guard, and then rechecked at 45.
So annoying when hoping on those pesky Festool engineers to maybe, perhaps, could’ve (they never seem too!!!) make a tiny error!! Thanks for great video. I have a poverty pack el cheapo tracksaw and I will be using your video as a basis on which to adjust it. Going to reduce the spring tension on the handle and get the dumbass depth gauge to include the depth of the track when I change out the splinter guard. Surprisingly this tracksaw operates really really well and it functions well even when joining multiple tracks.... I’m putting my hand up hoping for a Peter Parfitt Kapex Adjustment videoclip particularly focussed on the lasers. Never ever trusting any tool that I’ve ever bought before to be perfectly set up - for my first ever Festool tool, I broke the seal on the screw covers and tried playing with the laser setup on my beautiful Kapex (I’m still in love with it...!) Doh!! Having a few Festool tools now I know that ex-factory that they will be exactly, perfectly spot on. If only the wallet was deep enough to have one of everything in that sexy green....! Thanks very much for the videos over the years and also the marvellous UJK PARF guide system. You’ve inspired me and motivated my efforts enormously. Thanks again.
Well Peter, I hope that you are well? My birthday yesterday and my lovely wife bought me a TSC55 with 1400 guide rail! So no more fighting that el cheapo tracksaw that I had. It will be consigned to the rough lumber section!! Thanks again for the great videos and now I can use my Parfitt system with my new TSC55 to create that cutting bench!
Thanks very much for this Peter, I have the REBQ version of this saw which requires adjustment from the underside of the saw, there are 4 torx mounting screws - presumably you would loosen these first before placing the saw on the guide rail then clamp the blade in position somehow after calibrating it, before turning it upside down to retighten the screws...?
Hi Jim, I am not familiar with the problem that you describe but if you look for the US Supplemental manual (service.festoolusa.com/service/manuals/) you should find what you need. Peter
Hi Chip, We may be getting closer to "M" day. We have seen something that we like and are now trying to negotiate with the owners. I will keep every one informed of progress. Cheers. Peter
Ive never even checked to see if mine is accurate. The upgrade from junk to the festool made such an impact i dont think it matters😂😂 One day im going to do my scathing review on the barrel grip carvex and the garbage accessory kit that you can buy for it. The circle cutter JUNK WITH NO DIRECTIONS and the angle cutter JUNK! I had sparks flying out of that thing cutting wood😂😂. I need to find yhe time and patience to edit a video
Hi William, Your Carvex choice was clearly wrong for you and perhaps you should have returned it within the free return period. If you registered the tool after purchase you will have a full 3 year free repair warranty. If you are within that period perhaps you should contact Festool. A number of people forget to adjust the blade guide after changing blades and that may give rise to problems too. Good luck with you efforts and enjoy the TS55 - a great saw. Cheers. Peter
Hi peter i have had my festool TSC 55 REB tracksaw for couple of years,on the saw cutting deph it shows the word FS ,peter is that the cutting deph when the saw is on the guiderail.? I no i had saw for a while and never taken no why. Peter you did a great job explaining blade alinement showing puting small paper thickness setting blade alinement. well done.
Hi Shane, When directly on the sheet material to be cut the potential depth is 55 mm. On the guide rail it is slightly less by 6 or 7 mm. Cheers. Peter
Thank you for this very useful video. I have downloaded the Supplementary guide form the USA website but, unfortunately, it does not cover the adjustment of the vertical and 45 degree settings. I will try to produce my own set of instructions having watched the video again a few times so I will have these in the workshop for future use if needed. If you have a full set of written guidance for doing this Pete it would be very useful to add either a link to this or a copy on the website. I am setting up a new workshop in UK (my main one is in France) and will be equipping with some new Festool kit. Although the Kapex saw does look very good it is horrendously expensive and I am wondering if I could do nearly everything (if not quite so quickly and conveniently) using the TS55 on a MFT or the new portable workbench which I have just bought with either the MFT mitering attachments or using the angle finder and pegs. That said it seems that most workshops one sees on videos do have a mite saw! I have an old radial arm saw in France but it is almost impossible to control the dust from it which is a pain. I may use either a band saw or table saw in UK hoping that dust will be less of a problem. I am thinking of building the Palk workbench for UK with a Parf hole top and the inset router mounting and perhaps a table saw on one end.
I do not know how serious your woodworking exploits might be but I could not manage without a mitre saw or a good radial arm saw (although, as you say, their dust collection is awful). Good luck with everything. Peter
I only have the Kapex. I sold my old Dewalt RAS - it was a dust generator and did not hold its adjustment. I bought the Kapex from Axminster long before I started making videos and it is as good now as it was 8 years ago. Peter
Hi Wayne, Yes, I have the TS 55R EBQ and love it. I have not yet tried the new TS55 FEBQ but understand that it performs really well but has a thinner blade. Cheers. Peter
Peter - thanks for that and the link to the supplemental manual.👍 Would it not be worth - after all the adjustments - peeling off the splinter guard and moving it over 5mm and then carry out a trim cut.
Hi Norman, That would be a good idea if you have just one guide rail. I have bought 4 over the years and their combined length must be over 6 m. I still agree that it is a good idea. Cheers. Peter
Nice Video. Is this an older model TS 55 REQ? I just got one and the bevel adjustment is different. The one I have does not have the two screws you adjusted.
Thanks Peter I notice you mention your saw is about 7 years old. But it appears you have a different hose attachment to connect the new type twist hose end. Have you changed this. I too have an older saw with a ctl midi vacuum but the hose end is worn and annoyingly keeps pulling out. Do you know what the part numbers are. Also how can I contact you regarding some plans for a dovetail jig box.
Hi Malcolm, Yes, that is a new dust outlet which was can be bought in most outlets. I am not sure that it is much of an improvement but at least it allows the new bayonet ended hoses to fully connect. For plans just create a comment with you email address on the relevant video. It should be picked up by the RU-vid spam filter but I will be able to see it and it should not be visible to anyone else. I will then react, send the plans and then delete your comment. Peter
Hi David, There is no need for a special tool. The connection of the hose to the TS is a push and twist. If you are using the old style saw with the new hose or vice versa there is no problem. I have both combinations and it all works well. Peter
Peter, slightly off topic but my TS55 has been losing power particularly when I plunge and start a cut. It starts up, loses power then gains power again. I thought the obvious thing would be the brushes so I took the old ones out, they were well worn although one was worn more than the other. I replaced them with genuine Festool brushes, did a test cut and found the problem was still occurring. Now in my workshop I have a CT26 extractor and I’ve always plugged a 4 way extension into it and then plugged my various tools into the extension without any problems. So I unplugged the extension and plugged my TS55 directly into the extractor and it now seems to work fine. I’m sure someone said using an extension is ok but is this bad practice? Would it cause a lack of power do you think?
Hi Andy, I am not sure how a normal extension lead could cause a voltage drop but if you have eliminated the problem by taking it out then the fault must be there. I have always used an mains extension arrangement with my CT26 and never experience any issues at all. Could it be that there is a dodgy connection in the plug of the extension lead? Peter
I noticed you dont have a table saw do you. You just use the 55. I have a Kreg track saw and want to get a Festool Tracksaw but now they have the battery powered one. Wanting to see how everyone using the new one verses the power cord. Cord doesn't bother me whats your thoughts
Hi Thomas, I have a small Festool CMS TS table saw which has an old TS 55 mounted in it. I use it for ripping thin stock and rebating. I would get the mains powered TS if working outside away from power is not an issue. The battery versions are heavier and to still will need an extractor. Peter
I know how much you like Festool, but you could have said that you can use these tecnequis with other makes of track saw. There are other good brands out there.
How well does the glue hold on the edges of MDF? Ive got a small project on the go just now and require 3 boxes made and was thinking about this method.
You can glue mdf together and it will hold and if you want extra strength just put a either a screw or dowel after. It will all depend on what you are using it for.
Hi Rodger, I have never experienced any separation between MDF and the attached veneer. You might get some small splinter like chips that break off but the splinter guard on the TS55 and the guide rail should sort that out. If you are cutting along the grain of the veneer then you can get very thin splinters and so you should avoid touching the cut edges and then protect them in the design of what is being made - either a hard wood edging strip or butt jointing to other pieces. Also watch for splinters in your fingers when handling veneered MDF and ply. Peter
@@bighands69 thanks. They are being used as drawer boxes in a bin unit. One general, one paper and one general recycling; in line with local council waste segregation stipulations.
Hi Rodger, I am sorry - I was thinking veneer but that was not your question. Just look at the MDF to MDF mitre joints that I make for drawers. There is no need to use any mechanical methods (screws, dominos, dowels) to strengthen these joints as long as the flat faces that come into glue contact are uniformly flat and pressed together. Peter
LostWhits Blade should pivot around the lower edge of the splinter guard, maintaining contact but not quite as much contact pressure between blade and guard as when at 90deg. This helps avoid chamfering the underside of the guard strip and does’nt seem to cause any additional tear-out as a result.
You are joking? They are made to be adjusted and that is one of their best features. They allow you to dial in the accuracy which then allows you to repeat the cuts. The first time you adjust it you will be a little slow doing it and overly careful but after a few times it becomes second nature and you will be loving the fact you can do it so easily. You only have to deal with a few adjustment screws and if you want you can just doing it blindly as in make a cut and then adjust it until you get it dialed in.
My favorite part is when I followed this step by step and when I made my 45degree cut it destroyed my track because the saw blade is too close to the track after doing the method on here. That sucked
The whole idea of a track saw is to keep it on the track because in that way it will not damage the rail. Look again at the reminder at 8 min 30 seconds about keeping the saw on the track.
