I've been working on KTM's for 18 years now, I love that they stick with a design for 5-10 years and that I can use parts from a 1998 KTM on my 2024. They remind me of a vintage Volkswagen, or a Chevy 350, or an LS. Triple clamps, 54mm for the top, 60mm for the bottom. Frame neck OD, 59.5mm. Foot Pegs....they all fit. Rotors, 260/220mm forever with the same bolt spacing, 300mm/240mm for the bigger bikes. For the most part they keep the same part numbers too. Japanese bikes make changes every couple years so nothing seems to interchange and they like to change part numbers every year too. .
Just used this video to check my valves. I have a 2020 KTM 690 SMC-R with 14.5k miles on it and all the valves are perfectly within spec. Very pleased with this bike. Coming from Japanese bikes I expected the KTM to be a maintenance nightmare, but its been more reliable (and fun) than any bike I have owned.
Im new to the KTM world. Just upgraded my DRZ sm to a 2021 690 SMC-R. Coming from shim under bucket, screw and tappet world on early super bikes. This is brilliant. No special tools, no cam removal, just simple and straight forward shim. In the words of old SNL Mike Myers. "I'm as happy as a little girl". 😆
@@rmatvmc my pride and general distrust of people got to me. Watched this video 2 more times and worked up the courage to give this a shot. Shim kit ordered. Thanks for breaking it down.
Thank you! Just completed my first ever valve check with only minor hiccups. Couldn't have done it without this video (or would have been scared to attempt without it). Cheers,
Your video’s are so good and sattisfying to watch. The way you work your way through everything, so properly… love it. Always good footage and a super clear explenation. Thanks for sharing this kind of do it your self videos with the community. Much appreciated. When I am about to revise the bottom end of my 701 I am getting all the tools from you guys without any doubt. Keep sharing this technical videos please and keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. Very helpful! That intake finger follower clip retainer system is cool - before I saw this video I figured the cam was gonna have to come out and I was dreading that. Nice to see KTM/Husky thinking of serviceability in this design. Had a TL1000S years ago, got spoiled by that bike's lift out hybrid chain/gear driven cams, which were almost fun to take out and put back in. One observation for anyone doing this. While pulling the rocker and installing the exhaust shims is easy, the intake shims were tricky as the cam is in the way and my magnetic flat blade screwdriver was not magical like Charles' here. All my magnetic screwdrivers were a bit weak, and my small magnet used to suck the shims out was way too strong and bulky to put them back in. The right shim is not too high risk, dropped that a few times into the head and retrieved it with my strong magnet, but the left side was scary as I worried about dropping it down the cam tunnel and that would have sucked. So I stuffed a rag in to prevent that and ya, it saved my bacon when the left shim inevitably wobbled and fell off my screwdriver while trying to install it. Finally got it in but it wasn't super EZ like the video. I guess I need a different magnetic screwdriver! The subject of all this was my new '23 701, did the 600 mile service, all of the valves had 2.28 shims from the factory. Both exhausts measured .178 (tight, the minimum spec is .220) and the intakes both measured .10 (right at the minimum spec). This is in line with other KTM products I have owned. They bed in and the valves are tight when new, once adjusted they hold their clearance well. I adjusted both intake and exhausts to be near the looser end of the spec. I prefer not to do the intakes again any time soon 😆 Don't skip the initial service on your KTM, those valves will probably be tight. On the plus side, there was zero swarf in my 701's oil screens. My '10 450 had rather scary looking metal in the screens, which was "normal" back then and apparently of no consequence as that bike continues to run like a train 13 years later.
@@everydaybiker My old 450 and my 701's 2nd oil changes were very clean debris wise, nothing in the metal filters at all. There is always going to be some fine black magnetic "sludge" on the drain plug which means it's doing it's job I suppose! I added a PC6 with Rottweiler's map and a Yosh can to my 701, the power is stupid enough now that I actually geared it up to 16/46. It pulls like a train and the longer legs are nice on the street, and don't hurt it off road. I actually like it better in the dirt, 2nd gear is stupid fun on the more open 2 track stuff. These bikes are good enough that they can get us in trouble wherever we go 😆
Thank you for the video Charles. Great step by step that fully explains everything on adjusting the valves on a 690. I appreciate the detail and time put into explaining all aspects of the process.
Thanks for the thorough walkthrough. I just picked up a 19 husky 701 and I want to check the valves. Following this video, it was easy to jot down the exact procedure in shop manual style and I copied the chart as well. No to go see if any of my feeler gauges will be long enough.......
Yea well you guys taught me one thing with this video and that is someone else will be doing my valve check/adjustment! I got too much $$$ in this bike for my shaking hands to be messing with this lol. But truly a great video
There is no decompression function on my 2020 690 enduro. When turning the crank to position the cam as instructed, I used a long-handle socket wrench (breaker bar) towards the rear passenger peg and duct tape it there to hold the cam in the correct position.
Hey, weird question. I’ve been following your video and it’s been super helpful, thank you so much. I have a 2019 701 and I’m trying to change out the exhaust shims. You mention that you need to move the auto decompressor out of the way, but my bike seems to have a different assembly for it. Is this step still necessary?
KTM (Western Australia) Tells me no top gasket available in the world for my 2023 690 SMCR for the valve clearance at 10,000Kms. Anyone know if the previous model gaskets will do?
I have a 2021 ktm 690 smcr and I’ve followed this video through. I don’t see an auto decompressor, there is something like it but it doesn’t slide back and forth like the one shown in here. Kind of confused on what to do next to get my exhaust side done😅
It's still on the intake cam for your bike, but the actuating mechanism looks different for yours. You can spread the weights apart or rotate the engine over until the decompressor on that middle lobe sits just above the rocker without pressing on the rocker. Then you can make your checks. -Charles
Great video Charles! Silly question, but you don't have to drain the oil to do the check (and even the adjustment if need be) correct? I'm thinking to check it with the oil in, and if it needs adjustment, take that opportunity to change the oil right after or before. Thanks for the video!
I thought the KTM 690 didn't get the newer balance shaft motor until 2019? The Husky got it a year or two beforehand. So wouldn't a 2017 KTM 690 still have the older style motor/valve shim setup?
Why do you have your recorded valve thickness as a negative number? The value for "B" can never be negative, right? I must have misunderstood something.
Yeah, 2-3 hours is about right. The time consuming part is gaining access to the valve cover and re-installing all of those parts. If you are cruising through, you might be able to get it done in about 1.5 hours, but it's always better to take your time and make sure it's done right. -Charles
@@rmatvmc thanks, I've done a bunch of stuff to this bike already and every time I start something it's like this'll take 30 minutes, and 1.5 hrs later I'm finishing up. I don't want to do that with everything open. Much appreciated.
Hey Charles. I had a question for my ktm 625 smc. I’m doing a rebuild and want to know where the locking bolt for the crank is located. Any chance you may be able to help? Thanks
I don't know on that one. My manual doesn't show it, but if it has one, typically you'll see a bolt with a thicker copper washer on either side of the crank. You can still get everything done without it, just verify you are at TDC when setting timing and valve lash. -Charles
@@rmatvmc Charles just one more question. Removing the nut from the cam gear if I do that then it will move. Could I use a clutch holding tool on the sprocket so that it doesn’t move when I go to take the cam gear nut off ?
Not sure on this motor. Most people that I know with a 701, myself included, the valves were ‘within spec’ on the first check but needed adjustment on the second. Riding without having them in spec could cause damage to the valves.
