Braxton Bledsoe yeah, most likely the bearing itself is gone. Here is my step by step how to on replacing it if you're interested ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UFr0Rur_EWc.html
Very helpful! I just bought my 03 Cobra and was having difficulty shifting into 3rd gear. Pretty sure adjusting the clutch is all it needed and about to test drive it in a bit.
Over the years I've found that firewall adjusters are just more trouble than anything. I run a Fiore quadrant with an adjustable Steeda clutch cable straight to the transmission and make my adjustment at the clutch fork. This way, there is not a chance of the cable rubbing against the inside of the firewall adjuster and eventually snapping (which I have seen PLENTY of times). Love your vids bro!
Kris Ram I had a STEEDA adjustable cable at one time and also adjusted it from underneath, but the pedal would rattle until I got the freeplay elimination mod. I was running it so the t/o bearing wasn't spinning until engaged but didn't get full travel and got locked out a lot
Scrun Johnson I know the online debates go on FOREVER about this but the TO bearing is designed to spin at all times. If you look under a factory stock setup on a mustang that still utilizes the original plastic quadrant, the design to pull up on the clutch pedal is just that. To make sure the TO bearing is just barely resting on the pressure plate. If your pedal was rattling, that meant that the cable needed to be adjusted so that the TO bearing would make firm contact with the pressure plate. An old trick for aftermarket cables is to pour 2-3 cap full's of engine oil down inside the cable so that the travel and pedal effort is smooth. All in all, Timken bearings are my most favorite as they are made out of Kevlar and withstand a lot of abuse.
Kris Ram I agree. Good insight. When you remove a factory setup cable you need a pry bar to separate the clutch fork, so that's yet another sign it has pressure and spins constantly. Thank you for your comments. They help for others also reading through them for more insight
Video was just what I was looking for ! My 87’ GT has the exact same chirping noise so I popped the dirt cover off the bellhousing and started it up and I watched the cable and fork rattle a little and the smallest amount of tension would kill the chirping noise. I don’t want to have to swap to an aftermarket quadrant and I think my plastic quadrant still works fine
Ricky Gendall The plastic ones tend to strip the plastic teeth over time, so as long as they are still good you should be fine. If not, the aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster is very nice to have
Yes sir, I had a look yesterday at the pawl and quadrant and theres hardly any teeth left. On top of that, the cable in there now is stock from '87 so i went ahead and bought a 5.0resto cable adjuster and double hooked quadrant. Hope it works well, and thanks again for the awesome video man!
Thank you very much, I was wondering what was that annoying sound and now that explained the issue I feel a lot better. Appreciate that you putted this video together, it helped me a lot. Thanks again
Thank you very much for the insight! This was a huge help. I thought I had a bad throw out bearing after 11k miles with a new clutch, on a 1999 GT I just bought. Much appreciated!
Thank you for making all the helpful videos, once again, your videos have helped me so much. 😁 Put a maximum motorsports quadrant and matching cable in today. 😁
Good explanation. The bearing should be spinning with clutch at all times. Reason being. Every car/truck/bike etc. in the world I've ever worked on that had a hydraulic clutch they all keep small preload on the bearing.
i was always told the squeaking was the throwout going bad but i guess its something fairly common on these cars, its been like that on both of mine but i always just assumed they were bad bc they were both beat on by previous owners (and myself lol) thank you for sharing this information!!
It certainly can be the bearing going bad, but it can also just be the throwout bearing as it lightly touches the diaphragm and fingers. Here is more information as well as an install for the clutch quadrant and adjuster ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage well the squeaking isn’t super loud or anything it’s just kinda faint like the way you explained it in the vid so i’m thinking adjustable cable and everything should help me somewhat solve it
Mines is chirping alot louder now ,especially in drive tru's. When i bought my cobra a few months ago the chirp wasnt so loud. I bought a firewall adjuster and quadrant the week i got the car. Ill probably adjust it again tomorrow b4 work. You forgot to mention that u can adjust where your clutch engages with the fw adjuster and quadrant. I like mines engaging close to the floor.
Morbid Thrasher you're right. I started mention it at 6:22 and never finished. I completely covered it in the first video I made but a dump truck came up and ruined my video with noise and I started over again and forgot I didn't cover it again lol.
Good vid. I have my adjuster set with the dime thickness gap between the cable and the face of the adjuster. Clutch engages at the high travel part of the pedal where the vid said low
I have a BBK adjustable clutch cable, I cant turn the adjuster at the firewall unless I get some slack in the clutch cable by loosening it at the clutch fork
Adjust your cable. If it keeps chirping your throwout bearing and fork need to be replaced along with the bolt that hits the throwout bearing. And just Incase if your cable is old replace it as well. These mustangs are a lot older now and need a lot of new parts don’t try to half ass these cars because they will just keep messing up. Do it right!
Hey I know this video is a few years old but I’m hoping I could ask a few questions. I have a 2002 3.8L that I recently had a clutch put in. Just added a new adjustable cable and double hook quadrant. I am about to try and add my own diy freeplay eliminator to fix my issue. My pedal rattles and I mean BAD. So bad I have completely stopped driving the car it makes me wanna pull my hair out. You have been the only person to even address this problem in a video and I was just wondering. How bad did the pedal in your car rattle and are these cars known for that. I’m hoping this spring will finally put and end to it or I am afraid I will have to sell my favorite car. Also do I need the firewall adjuster or am I ok just to use and adjustable cable and new quadrant. Thanks.
Well, as the video shows, method 1 is to tighten the bearing up until it’s LIGHTLY spinning, and that would take most rattle away- but if you are trying for option 2 to have it not spin at all, the free play mod is your friend. On my car it just made an annoying tapping sound- small vibration to where barely touching the pedal would stop it. I went to having the bearing always touching because I was not getting full travel (and not getting full clutch disengagement) so I’d get locked out of gears. Hope that helps
Hi Danny. I just bought a Black 2003 Mach 1 basically stock with a few common mods like headers eibach susp, clutch cable etc. I think it’s a steeda adjustable clutch cable and hardware. My Question is … the clutch is SO HARD to push down. How can I make it easier and still keep everything right ie no squeal? Thanks!
Literally I have had that sound from my normal GT, I really thought it was a stupid throw out bearing, now it’s gotten so bad that the clutch pedal try’s to stick when I push it in.
Thank you. Just remember if you do have the throwout bearing touching the diaphragm fingers that it should be touching enough to spin, but not to be putting a lot of pressure on it
So I have a 98 svt cobra. Has the adjuster just like you have and quadrant. It has that chirping sound constantly and looks like a new clutch and tob in inspection port. If I tighten it too much it will chirp while driving in gear. But just very slight pressure on the clutch pedal will make the sound go away. I mean like if you pushed it with your pinkie. Any suggestions
So it is almost there. You need to tighten the cable (turn firewall adjuster counter clockwise) just a hare more. If you don’t have enough travel left in the firewall adjuster to do that you need to put the clutch quadrant on the other hook (assuming there are 2 hooks) and start over again with adjusting it. In my opinion, the ford cable does this perfectly and if you have to put nuts on the end of the aftermarket clutch cable make sure to had several and some lock tite so it doesn’t come loose
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ill try that. So put a cut or washer where the cable hooks? It squeaks only until a very light touch of clutch. Same thing no matter how adjusted
@@Keepfight10 having the same squeak in gear off the clutch and neutral off the clutch until I apply a very small amount of pressure on the clutch pedal. Just did a new clutch, tob, pilot, and maximum motorsports cable and firewall adjuster so I'm gonna try to tighten the cable just a hair and hopefully that will make the squeaking stop lol
I hear the chirping /rattle while driving it sounds pretty loud and I got a good amount of tension on it. New everything in clutch flywheel, clutch, pivot, TOB,fork ,new fluid, bbk adjustable fire wall and quadrant and cable
If it does not go away with light pedal (cable) tension, the throwout bearing is likely bad ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UFr0Rur_EWc.html
As always great video. Few questions My understanding I can install Quadrant & Firewall Adjuster with the stock clutch cable right? Any advice on that? Also do you have a video of any of those Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster? I'm not fan of how far the clutch travel or having my knees close to my chest lol.
Yes, the stock cable is best. You’ll see a spacer in this video for the clutch pedal, but it’s more for cable length ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.htmlsi=JtX9hPmJcx4SSCnr
for anyone thats unsure. if its more than a slight chirp the tob might be bad. my clutch is not too old an it did this . i think ford has some pre load on tob from factory ..
Some of the chirping can be from worn clutch diaphragm fingers and a bearing with some play, so it may not be noticeable with brand new parts ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.htmlsi=I3FCY4z3hGUM74-n
I have the MM adjuster on my 03 Cobra and got the chirping at idle to go away, but now it’s doing it above about 2000 RPM while driving. Any recommendation for that? Tighten it even more?
Hi Danny, I really like your videos! I have a question that I would appreciate if you could try to answer. I have tried to adjust the clutch on my 2000 mustang, and when I try to pull up the pedal like I heard your supposed to and hear a click, it did not click. After trying, I also have a bit of chirp now! I have the original adjusting mechanism, not an aftermarket cable, and I really need to know how to fix this. I would appreciate your help!
@@bobbyperl8955 an adjustable clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster is the best way. The factory ones strip being plastic Clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, cable install & Adjustment Ford Mustang 79-04 Cobra, GT, V6 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you! Got the v6 as my first car, worked a lot to buy that car myself! I'm fixing a couple things, and I have to pay for the parts but luckily I have your videos to help! In a way you got me into these cars.
Hey great video! Saved my life. My brand new ford performance tob makes a chirp/ faint rattle when i let off the clutch. Which method should i use to make the noise stop and put less wear on it???? Do i buy that kit? What do you recommend. You earned a sub. You're awesome.
Shitstang 02 I like the fiore brand clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster with a stock cable. That works well with my clutch at least. I would recommend a light pressure on the throwout bearing so it's just barely spinning, but doesn't have a lot of preload to heat up the bearing
Danny Johnson Ok i have an sr performance one installed. But i cant spin the firewall adjuster. Its too hard and i cant adjust it. Idk what i did wrong? So i just get it adjusted with with fire wall adjuster screwed all the way out ???
Shitstang 02 what clutch cable are you running? The aftermarket ones allow you to remove a nut on the clutch fork side and I can explain what to do if that's the case
When you installed your firewall adjuster did you have to make any adjustments to the gray rubbery seal material that’s on the inside of the car I am attempting it and I am having trouble with interference from that I would assume it’s noise heat vibration insulation.
Mine lets out 2/3from the top. Hard to get into 1st and reverse. When i get it into reverse it will let out about 1/3 the way. The peddle is pretty stiff. Theres an aftermarket quadrant. Cable unknow. When moving it shifts fine. Any thoughts ?
Check which hook it’s on for the clutch quadrant. You probably need to start over by putting the firewall adjuster in the middle and snugging the clutch cable down first at the clutch fork
It is possible, but the replacement cables may be too long if you dont buy a factory cable (thats discontinued). I had the best luck with this one who uses the same company ford used for their cables ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.htmlsi=FYTM_dzLoktxD2fV
Love the detail you put in the video 👍. I have a mystery situation (04 cobra twin disk clutch, MM clutch cable, FW adjuster and quadrant ) but 1st I want to ask you, how much slack do you allow between clutch cable and FW adjuster??
With the twin disks I hear they need an adjustable pivot ball stud and then even it is cut to a certain length for it to work. I use the oem factory cable since any adjustable one I have used in the past just seems to walk the nuts off
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I’m wondering when you adjust the tension on your clutch cable to firewall adjuster, how much space do you allow between the 2? Not sure why but my cable keeps pulling away from a dime width to almost 1/4 inch within a weeks time and I have to adjust it frequently
Que tal amigo. Si instalo este kit se elimina la contra de la cremallera? Es que no veo que venga en el kit. Y por último tu tienes algún vídeo donde expliques cómo instalarlo? Saludos y muchas gracias. PD. Deberías hacer vídeos en Español, hay mucho mercado en Latinoamérica.
Lamentablemente no tengo vídeos por instalarlo. Si tienes mucho vibraciones, puede ser el clutch fork o pívot ball. Te daré algunas links abajo ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3og_dCB9s-g.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah man got all three. Also got new clutch fork and ball pivot. My pops and I put everything the way it supposed to be. Triple checked everything
What if it's literally too hard to turn? Like I can't turn it either way. I have one similar to yours but is a little different looking. It almost seems like I need a tool to turn it maybe.
Just installed one of these on my car and when I try to adjust it out to make it tighter my whole clutch cable wants to rotate with the adjuster and it’s very hard to turn. Any advice ?
I would see my install video to make sure it’s all right, but they can be hard to turn where you need pliers- or a trick I use is to disconnect the cable, make the adjustment, then reconnect ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.html
Hey Danny how is it going? I enjoy watching your videos. I have a question for you. I just installed a new clutch kit, ford oem clutch cable, ford tb, ford pilot bearing & firewall adjuster. My transmission is making a whining noise while driving as if I have a supercharger but it goes away when I push in the clutch. What could be the problem? Could it be the clutch cable needs to be adjusted?
Yes, I would first start with the adjustment. If it’s touching constantly it needs to do that with very little force- just enough to spin the bearing (called preload). I would turn the adjuster clockwise (loosening tension on the cable) until you get to a point where barely touching the clutch pedal makes a chirping sound. If you have a chirping sound without touching the clutch as it sits in neutral it’s gone a little too far and you need to turn it counter clockwise to add more tension . If you can’t get it right you may need a clutch quadrant as well
Whining sound from transmissions are cost by wear on the cluster shaft and input shaft teeth. A confirmation of this will be the noise going away in fourth gear. It will sound like a supercharger exactly like you mentioned. This is typically caused by fluid running low. The only fix for it as a rebuild on the transmission and to replace the cluster and input shaft. Keep your fluid level topped off and generally you can drive with the noise almost indefinitely. however once the weather gets bad enough you will shred the teeth on the input and cluster on a hard lunch
I have a 1989 Ford Mustang and I replaced the cable last year and there’s some issues with it we’re it just doesn’t stay in place it just falls off and makes the clutch feel loose with no pressure please let me know how fix this hope to hear from you
Hi Danny, just wanted to say thanks for the videos you made regarding clutch replacement. It definitely made it easier to do, knowing what to look for. One question, I know there is a filler nut to add tranny fluid to the transmission, but can it also be added from the inside of the car at the top of the tranny when re installing the shifter?
Yes, you can do both. Add the 4 quarts in the shifter which is nice since you don’t lose any in the pump, or pump it in the side on the the side fill plug. It should overflow when it’s full and the car is level, but the tr3650 five speed asks to slightly under fill it. The t-56 is just 4 quarts and should overflow if the side plug is out
@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for the information. Doing this kind of stuff with my son is great. He to owns a 03 cobra. You may know him, he sent you a blurb about the Sonic blue terminator used as a police car.
So I recently bought a mach 1 with this firewall adjuster but the guy ajusted it and I started to here the throwout bearing noise which way should I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to stop hearing the throwout bearing???
cruzwtf Gaming so I’d turn it counter-clockwise until the chirping goes away (if that’s the sound you’re hearing). That would indicate the bearing is spinning but does not have a lot of load on it. Is that what kind of noise you hear?
cruzwtf Gaming In that case, you may have a failing throwout bearing. If so, this is how to replace it and the clutch ru-vid.com/group/PLIjr-uSYDZi6xQ5USpFNlQGOoQXboNgsM
Hello, when I turn the car on it starts to chirp but once it warms up it goes away,, the transmission feels excellent the gears go through excellent,, is this chirping on start till it gets hot bad for the clutch ???
Hey Danny, I'm working on replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 96' Cobra. To remove the stock clutch cable from the firewall, do I need to disconnect it at the clutch fork first or can I just disconnect it under the dash & pull it out of the firewall to get it out of the way?
The main thing is a new pivot ball (need to drop the trans for that, which I have videos on) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xsLqZE3Fs4Y.html
quick question for anyone. I have an 03 Gt and my clutch is short. meaning the "sweet spot" to engage it is very small/minimal. how do I Increase it??? On my previous 01 Gt it was way more easier and comfortable.
My cobra doesn't chirp like that it sequels. When I put the car in 1st gear then release the clutch and give it gas ill hear a loud squeal. I'm thinking its the bearings in the throw out bearing that are going bad. what you think? It only does it in 1st gear whenever I take off but its a loud squeal.
02 mustang 3.8 swapped clutch ..chirps n ticks when driving when i lift the clutch pedal up to try n self adjust the tick goes away could it be a bad tob or clutch fork or do i need a firewall adjuster
I believe my quadrant is also a fiore (previous owner install) I dont have a chirp but my clutch releases very high. I have adjusted the firewall on the way clockwise and it made little to no difference. and when I adjusted it counterclockwise it just disengages it completely. its a brand new zoom clutch so I know it isn't bad. Any tips?
Cole Smith it sounds like it's just how the clutch is made, so you'd probably need to buy a STEEDA double hook quadrant with 2 places to attached the cable
Cole Smith well, it's possible it's too short for the setup, but the factory cables stretch over time, so they only get longer. Mine is a factory ford cable with fiore clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster on a Mach 1 with the tr3650 transmission. It looks like yours is a 99 cobra? That would be the t45 Trans but if I'm mistaking and yours is 2001+ 5 speed it would be the tr3650 as well
Any chance this would form up a clutch pedal? I had a trans replaced and new clutch installed. Used factory cable, and now my clutch feels like a VW jetta Haha. Meaning there is like no force needed to press it down? I did the factory adjustment and the clutch let's out almost at the top of releasing it.
Sean Colon It should be easy to push the clutch in, but that all depends on the clutch as well. Many of the better clutches with higher clamping force face a stiffer pedal from the diaphragm fingers. If yours is soft enjoy it unless you lose clamping force and it slips
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage i appreciate the reply. it's a stage 2 clutch (non name brand) but it's really soft like I feel if I pressed it with 2 fingers it would go down. Went through a head ache of buying a used trans had it installed and it was shot, had to get another , and now good trans, new clutch and super soft pedal :-/.
Pivot ball stud length may have a lot to do with it, and a firewall adjuster and quadrant may help ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IceR-zPpvns.htmlsi=nEQbkhizq6xJ5HFb
Hey danny, i just installed a mcleod quadrant and adjuster (same as fiore) on my 04 mach 1. I was wondering a few things, first how did you manage to drill the 2 extra mounting holes for the adjuster? i have barely enough room to reach the 2 factory holes. Also, did you use any spacers to center the quadrant? i seen that you used the white plastic spacer on the main shaft, do you need to put something on the secondary shaft as well to control side to side movement? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
If I remember correctly, the kit came with self-tapping screws, and I only did the bottom one and it’s been secure enough. I did add a spacer on the shaft, but to keep the pedal from chattering, I added the freeplay elimination mod (I’ll add a link below). Having the stock cable helped with the chatter as well
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you. Gonna try and get the last 2 screws into my firewall adjuster somehow. Will head to the hardware store and build a freeplay mod and grab some spacers for the quad. Your videos are extremely helpful!
Hey Danny im a big fan of your channel i watch all your videos about the 99 04 cars! My clutch fork is too far to the right (towards the rear of the car) I've tried the firs walla adjuster and even a custom quadrant could I need an adjustable pivot ball for the clutch fork? My clutch is slipping is the problem thanks in advanve.
It sounds like the clutch is slipping itself, but not from the clutch being depressed. If the fork was sitting closer to the engine side, that would indicate its being engaged and could cause it to slip. It sounds like it’s time for a new clutch. I’ll put some links below
Pivot ball stud (I would not get an adjustable one unless you get a Mcloud RXT. People even have to trim the bolt on adjustable studs) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q7iJDYIZB6M.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the clutch is brand new its a 26 spline and the input shaft on the transmission is a 26 spline the pressure plate is new the bearings are all new I greased everything and the flywheel is new. I'm lost.
Not at the firewall. It has a “self adjusting” plastic mechanism on the pedal you’ll see in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RkEn5FJHs8g.htmlsi=vz_U_17kbJT0HYTh
hey there my friend ! question , i just installed a cable and quadrant. seems to work good only thing is the point where the car grabs the gear is pretty high up on the clutch pedal. is there any way i can make it to where it’s more closer to the floor that it grabs rather then higher up? thanks !!
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage and i see you used the Maxium Motorsports one. on the steeda one the cable it’s self where it goes onto the fork is adjustable not sure if you are too familiar with the one i have but i couldn’t really find a video. unless that is how this steeda one is designed
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage because i have it where there is no bearing noise as per your other video on how to adjust the cable with the red mach 1 you have. when i try to adjust mine from the firewall i physically cannot as it’s just too hard to spin now but like i said no issues just that the biting point is high and i would like to know if i can make it closer to the floor
Thanks for the vid bro, my clutch has been shaking up and down making a weird noise ever since i had a new clutch installed. Also a few days ago my clutch got really tough to push in and wouldnt let me put in 1st gear and if i was in 1st, it would get stuck on Neutral and it would lock me out for the next gear. I then leave it for like 1 hour and then it lets me drive it. What do you think might be going on? I was told on forums to check firewall for obstruction but idk, now my mechanic says i need another clutch and i just had it installed 5 months ago. But i was learning how to drive stick the first 2-3 months of the new clutch so maybe i did wear it out. Please help, ill appreciate bro
Jose Martinez it sounds to me like it's possible that the throwout bearing may have burned up, or is getting too hot. My throw out bearing was too tight at one point and as I was taking a road trip to Las Vegas my clutch started to Stefan up on the pedal. If you have a firewall adjuster you can back the throwout bearing off a little bit as shown in the video.
Jose Martinez if you end up needing a new clutch because yours has been burned up when you were learning, I have a video series that will show you step-by-step from start to finish how to install a new clutch and throw out bearing. It might be a good idea just to watch these videos anyway so you know how it all works ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UFr0Rur_EWc.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks danny i feel a million times better because for awhile now i thought maybe i did something wrong when i changed the clutch last.
When you tighten the adjuster is it supposed to loosen up any at all. I got the cable set up from American muscle. Bbk type. After I test drive it or go to the store I check it and it’s loose again
Daniel Lopez It should not do that. I bought the “micro click” one from fore and really like it because it only rotates and clicks in increments. You may want to put a dab of blue lock tite on the threads and then adjust it
how do ik if my TOB is out? i’ve replaced the clutch cable and it has a chirping sound when i press the clutch and let off , do i have to adjust it from the firewall? it also doesn’t go in gear when running but when off it does , please any advice??
I have a question. I have a bbk firewall adjust kit and cable. The nuts on the adjuster tranny side on the fork have to be all the way at the end as far as possible and the firewall adjust in pretty much all the way to get the clutch to engage further to the floor. If I put the nuts tighter and turn out the adjust on the firewall the clutch engages higher off the floor which I don’t like. Is this normal? It’s a pain in the ass because I barely have enough thread to put the jam nut on tight on the fork.
I don’t like any aftermarket cables, even the ford racing. The nuts back off too, so I got a ford OEM cable and run it with the firewall adjuster and the quadrant
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the reply. I figured out a way to have it tight and secure and engage exactly where I want it along with your spring mod. Thanks again Danny
@@benignocepeda7720 Hey. I just replaced my clutch flywheel and everything else. I noticed the spring clip on the back of the fork was bent so the fork was probably surfing all over the pivot stud. So that might have been the reason why I was able to get more threads with the nut. BUT I also bought a “ford performance ” cable which in fact doesn’t have any ford logos on it and is made in Taiwan but pretty much the exact same design as the garbage bbk cable and had the same exact problem I posted above. The adjustable portion on the cable is not made long enough. How on earth they can make cables like that and sell them is beyond me. I would say just buy a stock ford cable like Danny Mentioned. With the new install I just did I had to reuse the bbk cable and had to use shallower nuts just to grab some threads on the cable. It’s literally right at the end of the adjustment piece.
I really like the Fiore brand. I had the steeda double hook and it seemed one hook was too low and the other was too high. I had the best luck with a ford oem cable and the fiore quadrant
Ricky Companion I’m pretty sure mine does not (unless it has one but can’t be used when adjusted to a certain length). Mine clicks into each position every 1/4 turn, so that’s nice
I'm having this same problem with my gt. However, whenever I tighten the cable using the firewall adjuster the chirp goes away but then when I do this it chirps when the car is driving and the clutch releases wayyyy too high maybe like half an inch to an inch from being fully released. I have the upr triple hook quadrant and firewall adjuster as well as the adjustable cable. It doesn't chirp when you give the cable slack but then it releases too soon and releases too high when you tighten it and it starts to chirp when you adjust it where it "should be" and it releases at the perfect spot. What do you think i should do??
Ricky Dunivan it should grab about 2 inches off the floor and release about the same as you push the clutch in. It may have something to do with which brand of clutch and clutch quadrant you have as well
Ok hope you see this comment I've looked everywhere home Depot Lowe's O'Reilly auto zone where did you find that clutch cable free play kit it's just a spring and 2 copper fittings American muscle don't carry it
My mustang has the T-45 and I just put a steeda triax short throw. I notice a noise from 2nd to 3rd and my clutch fluctuates from real heavy to soft/light. The noise/ vibration from the shifter worry’s me, sounds like it’s not happy to be in gear. When I first go fro a cruise she’s solid till the t45 warms up then it’s tough to get into gears 1-3.
Bena tarde quisiera saber como puedo comprar un cuadrante igual con todo y su cable tengo un Mustang 1981 y quiero ponerle uno como el sullo me podria hayudar para saber donde lo puedo comprar en linea y que me lo puedan envia a Guatemala
Brandon dsadasdas with it being electronic you'll need a hand held tuner to set the desired RPM. You can also (on some aftermarket throttle bodies) adjust the screw that stops the throttle Body from closing all the way- however- the car will likely throw a check engine code cause it's idling higher than its supposed to. I can get my tuner and make a video soon
Cody Koala Your throwout bearing is likely dragging on the retainer sleeve. When you’re ready for a new clutch, please see my step by step video series ru-vid.com/group/PLIjr-uSYDZi6xQ5USpFNlQGOoQXboNgsM
It is designed to spin constantly, so it’s okay to have constant pressure as long and it’s not a lot. Enough to spin it, not enough to have excessive load.
This was my first car in high school it was a v6 lmao I remember having to do 3 clutch kits because I never looked into adjusting it I figured fords "amazing engineered self adjusting quadrant" would take care of itself but I was wrong the last clutch kit i did was because the release bearing exploded and dug itself into the fork and throughout its life time it would squeal every where I went i havent driven the car for over 2 years now I'm wanting to get it running again i wish ford weren't such cheap basterds they should have installed hydraulic units like everyone else did back in the day
I have a 94 mustang gt and the other day i took it out for a spin and it would pop out of 2nd on me. I see my cable going through the fire wall is that where i adjust it at. Its making a winding sound underneath my stick shift and pops out of 2nd when driving
Bert Ryan You may have more sever issues with the transmission than an adjustment will fix. You’ll also need to buy a firewall adjuster (links in the description) to be able to adjust it