The most helpful video on RU-vid. This gentleman has been the only one to explain how to get my camshaft back because I can’t set the camshaft sprocket at TDS, it’s locked up. Will update, If anyone knows another video about aligning the camshaft please let me know
You can rotate the cam by putting a wrench on the gear bolts. You don't have to loosen the cam shafts. Just align your marks, start the belt and clamp it down with some large binder clips. Then rotate the next gear and repeat. After you get the belt on be sure and rotate the engine in both directions at least twice. Check your marks again. If everything is lined up you are good to go. Never check the job by starting the engine first. It could cost you big time.
Thank you. This was what i was wondering bc my wife's 05 Lexus timing belt just slipped. I'm currently I breakdown process i don't believe it's in time. It's not an interference motor so I'm crossing my fingers. Any other info you can give me i would GREATLY appreciate.. I'm so happy dont have to go into cam shaft.
My belt also slipped. Are you saying that if I put my first piston at TDC I can move the Cams individually one turn to the TDC marks and I'm good to go? ( also a non interference engine) More specifically will rotating the cam shafts and crank shaft individually to top dead center put everything in alignment so that I can just put the belt on?
@@sethsacks9947 What I am saying is that on my 3000gt (interference engine) what I did was to get the arrow on the crankshaft lined up with its mark. Then I rotated the cam gears individually until their marks lined up with the marks on the valve covers. I held each one in its place because sometimes they want to recoil. I put my belt on the cams first one at a time. I locked the belt down on them with the large binder paper clips. After that, I put the belt around the crankshaft. When I was happy with the positions I released the tensioner to take up the slack. Then I took off the binder clips and rotated the engine by the crankshaft. I checked that everything was still lined up as I marked the belt with touch-up paint before I did the rotation test. That way I would know if anything changed. UPDATE: In the end, I was only able to rotate the engine in its normal direction as when I tried to do the reverse rotation the belt would jump gear teeth and I had to start over. It all worked out for me and the car runs fine.
@@chefron8 I have an interference motor as well. 04 honda 3.0 accord. I was just curious as to what happened when your belt failed. Were you driving? Did you suffer any bent valves or anything? My tensioner gave way while driving, but my belt didn't break. I'm going to replace everything but didn't want to put in the money if something internal went bad. What are my odds?
Thank You so much for this. My friend was helping me replace the head gasket on a 4 cyl twin cam similar to this. He put everything back together up to the cam cover but not the cam sprockets. He has been putting me off so I was going to finish putting it together. I was putting the sprockets back on and they weren't lining up to the markers. Now I know I have to take the cover, cap caps off and put the sprockets on first. Well, he was in a hurry to leave the last I saw him. Thanks again.
So I got the timing aligned properly. The vehicle is a 2003 mitsubishi galant 6G72 (V6). The timing belt broke, the crank was an inch past TDC and the cams were over a half rotation off. From what I've read you shouldn't rotate the crank counterclockwise if the timing belt is on because it can release the pressure on the tensioner and cause the engine to jump time. However if the timing belt was shredded and no longer exists your free to rotate the crank counterclockwise. I rotated the crank counter clockwise to TDC, aligned the right cam, then the left. The order you align is not important but the way you put the belt on is. The belt should be put on taking car to leave as little slack as possible between the cams and crank, the tensioner will maintain the little slack position once the belt is completely on. I used binder clips to hold the belt starting at the cam above the tensioner and I removed all slack as I worked my way around the engine. When aligning the cams go slowly it is possible that the valves could be in the way (I don't think it is probable if the crank is TDC). It is my understanding that when the engine is TDC it is in a service orientation and the cams can be spun freely. So care must really be taken when you are moving your crank to TDC. Once the crank is in position your golden (unless your engine has balance shafts which must be checked via an access hole on the engine, the v6 I was working on does not have balance shafts). Don't force your crank if you run into resistance the cams may need to be moved to close the valves that are interfering. I got lucky since my crank was so close to TDC anyway. I got lucky with setting the timing because the crank was close to TDC however after performing a compression test 3 of the 6 cylinders have low compression >.< Looks like I will be looking up what I need to do a valve job next. Summary: If the belt is off, align the crank to TDC. Be careful the valves could be in the path of the pistons if it is an interference engine. If you meet resistance you may need to rotate the cam or cams to get the valves to close. I would rotate the crank the shortest distance to get it to TDC. Hope this has helped. Good Luck.
You should show close up of timing marks and stress all 3 have to be dead on. If your just replacing belt put at TDC and use paint marker and mark belt in all 3 timing marks then transfer marks to new belt, you must be precise take your time.
I'm replacing the belt before it breaks but I can easily imagine getting in a situation where I screw up the synchronization between the cams and the crank, and it's reassuring to know that if that happens, all is not lost.
if the timing belt has snapped and the cam is not in time, you DO NOT need to slacken the camshaft, Just rotate the crank back 1/4 turn for 4 cylider engine so the pistons are half way, then move the cams to the correct place, then move the crank foward 1/4 turn , then fit new belt etc JOB DONE>>>>
I'm sure someones mentioned it but whenever I do cambelts at work, I always time the engine up and then turn the engine over by hand 2 revolutions to make sure the engine doesn't lock up. This guy is crazy and really this video should be banned. But there appears at the time of me writing this, he has 717 likes to 110 dislikes. WTF!!!
Some engines are non interference and will not do any damage if the belt breaks. Not all timing marks are like the one he described ....refer to a repair manual for your vehicle to learn the correct position of your timing marks and always double check before you move on because you can easily be one tooth off and the engine will not run right.
I changed my timing belt once several years ago, doing it again today, and I didn't even take the cam covers off much less remove the bolts holding the cam down. All I did was put a wrench on the bolt that holds the sprocket on and slowly turn it clockwise until it lines up, making sure that snap action it does doesn't cause me to get a skinned knuckle. It is amazing how strong those springs are. Yea, not sure I want this guy working on my car. I'm not a professional mechanic but what he says doesn't make sense. I've changed my share of timing belts too.
Late 80’s Integras had interference engines, so automatically u had to remove the head, and to do so u have to remove the camshafts to get to the head bolts
My timing belt broke and the cams are not lined up. I lined up the crank and then tried to turn on the crank bolt and the bolt will not move. I’m guessing that is a bad sign? I have no choice but to try and work on it myself, but I’m not a mechanic. I’m ready to put the new belt on but then this happened. Is there an easy way to tell if something’s bent….I realize this is a very old video but I’m having a hard time finding videos on this. Thanks for any help anyone can provide!
That's great if your timing belt breaks and your crank is at top dead center. What if the crank is not at top dead center? How do you realign the crank and cams without damaging valves?
@@DavidB-rx3km So because I had no clue what I was doing, I turned my intake cam , not sure if it was 180 and then i'm not sure if i turned the exhaust cam and which way, is there a way to adust the timing now still? I have everything on hold with the covers off. Even my timing chain, I will match the mark of the chain with the triangle on the exhaust, but then I can't match the mark of the chain on the mark on the crankshaft sprocket when the crank shaft is at the 12 o'clock position. It can only match when the shaft is at about 11 o'clock. That's what happens when some bonehead with no knowledge on timing like me thinks he is a mechanic. I understand it better now, but still don't know what to do. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
@@cartroublewannafix8611 If you line up TDC on the crank on cylinder one - you can check TDC by taking the spark plug out of cylinder #1 and putting a long rod into it to check where the piston is - at it's highest point is TDC. Cylinder #1 is always at the end with the belt/chain. Usually the if you line up all the marks on the cams/crank pulleys, that's TDC. Once everything is back together, turn the crank by hand (with spark plugs out to make it easier) - if there is any resistance, it's out 180 degrees, but it's hard to mess it up. Good luck
@@DavidB-rx3km I tried this and once the mark on the exhaust intake is set on triangle, the chain mark for the crankshaft dot with it in the 12 o'clock position will not reach. It's a tooth short or the crank shaft will force itself to the 11 o clock position, making the the piston slip a bit down.
U shouldn’t loosen the camshaft bearings to do that , I’ve done it successfully on an Acura integra 87, he also forgot to mention to not forget to install the the belt guide that goes over the crank sprocket , if u forget that the belt will fall off the sprockets , there are two guides one inside the sprocket and one on the outside
On a 2000 KIA in order to hold the camshafts in place, I took two pieces of 1" plywood approx., 4" x 4" and stuck them in between each pulley and the medal backing plate. Than I took two "C" clamps and lightly clamped (make sure to put the belt in first) the pulley's to the back of the back plate. Worked perfect. Vehicle fired right up, 6 months later some idiot T-boned it and it's now being made into beer cans.
This guy is crazy I really thought I had to do all of that the only thing I had to do was turn the cams back to their position and make sure the crank is at t.d.c and my car fired up with no problems thank God
Thanks John you described exactly what I was Looking for. I was hoping I didn't need to mess with the rockers because it didn't seem there is no damage as far as the pistons and rods are concern.
Should’ve just looked up the torque specs and tightening order add that info in the video. Such a good video production wise. Just that little bit of info would’ve made it a great video
I turned my crankshaft over by hand a million times to make sure I knew I had top dead center on the compression stroke.. after I timed the cams I turned the engine over again by hand to make sure nothing was coming in contact.
If you're at the point of needing to replace a timing belt, the rollers and tensioner AND water pump should be replaced too. If you haven't destroyed valves abd there's a 90% chance you have. And it's FAR FAR harder inside the vehicle than shown here. The tensioner roller ALSO locks open when the bolt is tightened then will partially tension as it's released before it's retightened. ALSO not shown here. There's a chance that it MAY MOVE THINGS out of place when the tensioner tensions up and this MUST be checked. It's caused by not keeping the right side reasonably tight with your hand before the tensioner becomes tight. ALSO not mentioned. Along with the mandatory double rotation of the crankshaft instead of "just start it up". Yeah, start it up and hear it destroy itself because you missed the manual turnover of 2 revolutions.
This came up for me on a search looking for info to reset a pt cruiser. If that happens to anyone your marks are not at 12 oclock. Exhaust is at 3 and intake is at 9 also exhaust needs to be placed at a half a notch below the the intake with the crank at tdc and so on. Oddly enough the comments here were more help then the video was. Thanks guys. Also anyone else think that guy could be daniel Cormier's twin? Lol
Great video. I have a b18c honda motor im working on. I was changing the belt and installing a aftermarket harmonic balancer on the gearshaft. I didn’t have a problem lining up the cams, however, as i was installing the harmonic balancer, With the belt removed, I believe I may have moved the TDC of the main crankshaft off of its center. I cannot view the marks of the main crank because the aftermarket harmonic balancer now covers it and its far too difficult to remove now. I was planning on putting a stick in the spark plug hole to find dead center as it raises up upon moving the crankshaft, but I was concerned that the valves would be affected, so i removed the cams from its journals to avoid any valves from being bent and now im planning on turning the crankshaft (counter clockwise) measuring TDC of the camshaft in order to get it TDC. Question - Am I correct to assume that it’s important to get my maincrankshaft on TDC ? And if so, am I doing it correctly? Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
still shake in general on timing the engine sprockets but is there ever marks on the belt seems as for belt based engines you don't have to worry about how the belt lines up with things just sprocket which is different some times for timing chains
If the crank shaft cam is not at top dead center shouldn't it be possible to attach a large socket to the crank shaft bolt and with a breaker bar also rotate it until the timing marks align? It is basically the same process that chefron8 suggested but for the crankshaft cam instead of the overhead cams. I think chefron8's suggestion of rotating the whole assembly a couple of times using the crank shaft to check alignment is a good idea. That is how I have seen it done on some other videos.
That was a very helpful video. I think if you get all the way to this point, you're some what savvy in this subject and just needed a little bit more guidance(which he shows in this vid). My KA24DE timing guide and tensioner broke with no other damage (thank god) and the principal of it was perfect. There is a lot more that needs to be done, obviously, but, he's teaching the principal. I don't know what these "classic hit the starter with a hammer until is fixed kind of mechanics" are talking about in the comments.
I can't do this. My timing marks are way off after getting it machined. I hate cars and mechanic won't respond to me. This sucks, what a way to start the new year.
Forgot to mention the crank pulley at tdc li ed up with mark on the timi g belt cover . Azumi g cyli der head still on vehicle. 1st align all tdc if able to then do leak down test. If ok then I would take a chance and install timing belt with related
The water pump wheel and the tensor wheel make part of that synchronization process? Or the only wheels that we have to synchronized are the camshaft wheel and the crankshaft wheel?
What if your pulley on your harmonic balance is not lined up correctly how do you do it I seen a friend of mine do it without having to take all the stuff off
Hey bro, you are kicking as*. Brother to brother, mechanic to mechanic, tell more details in other parts and their functions and with the other parts. Get closer to the lines for timing or anything detailed so people can see and understand. Kick butt bro
There are non interference and interference engines.That means one engine when a valve is fully open will not the piston and the other will.If you don't know if your engine is interference or non interference simply turn the crank 90 deg from TDC.So were ever the crank is take it away from TDC.You my have to turn anti clockwise or clock wise but do not turn to TDC.When your at 90 deg from TDC the engine is at middle dead centre.That means all the pistons are at half there stroke.NOTE if the engine you are working on must have lock tools to prevent the sharfts turning or to there timing postions while replace the cam belt fit them in the next steps.Turn one cam at a time to there marks or fit locking tools.Once cams are in postion turn the crank to TDC and lock if need,Now you are ready to fit your cam belt.This will work on all 4 cylinder engine as the Toyota 3SGT in this post.
What if my cams are not off due to driving but happened during the removal. My cams are about an inch and a half to the left of the I mark not the T and the crank is at 12:00 I have a 2uzfe 4.7 engine. The old belt is still on and under tension if that info is helpful? Can I just take the belt off and turn the cams where they need to be?
How are you dear brother I am from Iraq and I was impressed with your work so I have a request for a car Kia Sephia 2000 model possible way to adjust the center location in detail Thank you
If a car starts and runs smooth for 5 minutes then shakes is that an indication for timing off a little? Had to remove a Ford Edge timing chain to replace the water pump
thanks for the info! I was always wondering do I have to do the timing differently each time when I open up an engine or not, turns out there a simple mark on the engine and the gear that I have to match with!
moofushu that is a toyota 4A-GE 16 valve. it was in the corolla sport GT-S (AE86) from 1983-1987, MR2 First generation 1984-1989 (optional supercharger in 87 and 88). There was also a 20 valve version on the AE111 Corolla, JDM only. this is a DOHC, 4 cylinder naturally aspirated engine, displacing 1587cc, 1.6 liters. one of my favorite engines ever, hope i could help.
Well I'm screwed, I'm trying to fix my brother's girlfriend's car for her timing belt broke the intake camshaft gear is at about 12:40° and I cannot spin it by hand and I do not want to take the top off of the cam cover because I do not know the sequence, I can spin everything else and I got everything ready but I cannot get that sucker to move.
Yes.Crank sprocket at TDC with cam gear sprockets at TDC along with distributor rotor at #1 on compression stroke . He forgot to mention Crank sprocket alignment.
My belt just slipped and I'm not sure how much can I just take the belt off, turn the crank shaft to TDC, Turn the Left and Right Cams to TDC in one rotation then put on a new belt and tensioner? If not how much more complicated is it to match the cam shaft?
Don’t forget to tell them the cam is cut off centre so the alignment tool only fits one way ,should be fool proof be cause I had no top dead centre marks on my pulleys
m8 you only take in too acount the valve placement but you forgot your piston position, i mean if your valves open when your piston is coming up towards them bicuse you dident take into acount the piston position you will have destroyed your engine.
+X4hunterx4 . Yes anything in your valve train, through your cylinders to your crank need to be checked, technically...there is a chance that anything could be bent or full of scratches, in most cases if a valve hits a cylinder and it doesn't go through it there is a chance that the cylinder knocked out of alignment and is now scraping up against the cylinder bore wall.... usually the engine is gone on an (in this videos case) "interference engine" when a timing belt snaps or slips off... (especially B series Honda or foreign vehicles)...American makes are now shifting towards interference technology(better efficiency). interference means that the engine has been designed to allow the valves to actually touch the cylinder head when the cylinder is at TDC(top dead center) precision engineering at its greatest...but 1 tooth off can cause damage. If a rocker is forcing a valve down while the cylinder is up then the rocker arms can bent.
how do i get the distributor to mesh in the correct position with the exhaust cam gear? do i simply mark the rotor before removing it while at top dead centre? i'm afraid that once i remove the head (im replacing the head gasket) that the distributor will rotate and that i won't be able to get it back in the correct position and the engine either wont run correctly or at all thanks
nice video bro am working on volvo xc90 04 the timing is cult i believe is leaking antifreeze from the thermostat housing nipple, but my fear is going to damage the valve pls what do think
Thanks for the vid, these vids are a great help to people. OK, say a person just wants to change the timing belt, it didn't break, are they able to safely put one back on, without moving anything, while preserving the correct timing? In other words can one just take the old belt off and put a new one on without creating timing issues? I was going to change the timing belt in my Toyota Prerunner but decided to have the dealership do it, ...I know, they charge a lot. It ended costing me over $600, I could have saved a lot of $.
i it installed my timing belt on a 2006 chrysler sebring it ran good for one day then ran hot it starts runs fir a few seconds then cuts off can u tell me where i went wrong
Correct me if I,m wrong when you have lined up the cam shafts timing marks isn,t it best to lock them in place before you tighten down the cam bearing caps so they don,t move or does it matter if you have the belt on also is it best to tension the belt before tightening the cam bearing caps.or does it matter?
Tightening the caps will not clamp the camshaft in position, the cam is free running in the caps. It would be better to tighten the caps first, before aligning the timing marks. Check that 'all' of the marks are still in the correct position, after setting the tension of the belt.
Yes, you are correct Tarsneyisle, but torquing down the cams will only secure them into the Cyl head casting. It is only after this that you then set them into their correct position (by rotating them, to their correct timing marks.) It is only then, that you would put the timing belt on the pulleys and 'time the camshafts' to the crankshaft. I hope this is clear. :0)
If it was so easy why not set camshaft so it's off and then do the actual setting of it. That's a real video. Didn't explain what happens when you rotate the cam. Do the valves move?
Belt will try to jump during assembly che an check turn crank by hand tool twice 3 rotations check timing Mark's if it gets hard to turn ouston may be hitin valve tear it down and setuopagain but very 1st if it's a non interference motor this will work if it's a interference pull the heade I use a hammer to straighten valve and reuse head gasket out it to gather start it then pull head bolts slide used HD gasket out slide new 1 in torque it down is your good copy don't drive it till coolant is in it finally dont forget to bleed h2o out by thermo housing if not steam will super heat and blow a head or gasket with warp an you will hate life good luck
in this guys case if anyone is wondering. an interference engine going 65 will have damage regardless. To check you'd have to check pistons and valves which means you have to tear down the engine. At this point, if you don't have knowledge or time, a shop is the way to go.