HOW TO DO A VALVE JOB! Bent Valves, Broken Timing Belt, No Machine Shop! 

What strikes me as wonderful with your video is the ingenuity to see the problem, solve the problem and explain how and why the solution is derived. Forget the critiques about camera and focus! This had mean leaning and looking over your shoulder cheering the advances on your solutions. That's for what working on my car is about. Figuring, learning, enjoying and experiencing! Yay, I'll subscribe to see more.

Color the valve seats with a sharpie and once you cut the Sharpie off you know you have a good seat

This is nothing short of a Godsend for those who have ability but low on cash. The way your video was presented was very accurate, easy to understand and your method of "showing" how it's being done is much more than that. You provide tips along the to save money, innovative and inexpensive (and genius) homemade (and effective) tools to achieve the same results as renting a spring compressor. I"ve been a mechanic for decades and I've never heard of pouring water into a port to see how the valves are seating. What great idea! I searched for "blown timing belt on Hyundai accent" and yours was the 4th or 5th one I saw and by far the best. My assistant's car quit running and I just now discovered the timing belt is off. I just pulled the cover back 1/2" and looked down in there. Not sure if any valves are bent or not or holes in the pistons. It was cranked many times in attempts to get it started thinking it may have been a fuel pump/electrical problem or fuel related issue. She was driving 70mph on the freeway when it happened . Since all Hyundai engines are non clearance motors I'm fearing the worst. A fellow mechanic asked (after I told him it was at timing belt gone at that speed). "what's the car worth?". Good question. Thanks again..oh, in closing a couple of suggestions: On close ups make sure it's in focus. The content/angle/lighting/proximity is perfect...but it's out of focus. Try to keep the content framed. I wanted to see how much compound you were putting on but the content was outside the frame. Other than that, it was awesome...your're a natural educator.

This was absolutely one of the better videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you for sharing.

love this! Very doable. Power to the people. Thanks for taking the time to make the vid!

Thanks for the detailed video. Purchased a used engine that had issue with excessive blue smoke for $80. Disassembled the engine and found #2 exhaust valve burnt and missing a piece. Bought a re-ring kit and valve, refreshed the entire engine. After 4,500 miles, the engine is running extremely well and recently passed the SoCal emission test.

WOW that's one great job better than great u just saved me a ton of money thats the fastest and easiest way I've ever seen a valve job done u r well let me say u made it look so easy ive never done a valve job R & R heads plenty but ive been putting this off for 5 months but tomorrow im jumping right on it and changing the motor mounts ive put off for a yr. MOTIVATION is wat ugave me Thank u so much ill follow u thumbs up every day u deserve it.

Great video I did this to my Toyota Corolla but I found an easier methed to receipt the valve keepers and valve spring. I used a 11 mill long socket and a rubber mallet . I pressed down and hit with mallet worked like a charm.

Great vid! Someone out there makes a nifty little tool for spring/keeper install. You hit it with a hammer to remove and a magnet on the inside holds onto the keepers, and another end piece holds them in place while you hammer again to set them. I need to find one.

Great work my man DIY all day forget the machine shop, Save money. Just subbed keep the videos coming.

Good video, I would have mentioned checking valve seats for cracks or excessive pitting. Lapping will only help so much. Would also recommend replacing valve stem seals, very inexpensive, which is major cause of oil burning.

I used to do all this many year ago and it's great to actually see someone do it the way it is supposed to be done. BRAVO

Mindblown🤯 I've been avoiding the inside of engine for nothing

You seem to do a great job at explaining the process. I wish you had a dedicated camera-man! Thank you!

since its an interference engine, which is why the valves got bent from hitting the tops of the piston, sometimes the piston will be cracked or worse, like a bent rod or the rod bearing is smashed, and you wont know it till you fire the engine up, I learned that the hard way when I used to repair fiat spyders, which were twin cam engines, Alfa,s had a chain but other issues,like the head studs pulling out of the all aluminum engine, and the steel cylinder liners would leak plus they had plugs pressed into the crank journals, to block the cross drilled oil passages, good video, there is another tool out there that you use to remove the keepers like the one you made to remove em the same tool can be used to install them, plus if you have carbon build up on the back of the valve, you should install new oil seals, ,no body likes to do it twice, because you will need to replace the head gasket again, and other related gaskets, but I will tell you this NEVER re use a head gasket, unless its a solid copper one, they arent cheap either.

I could watch this video all day!

Thanks for the detailed video, very educational!

a real pro who knows what he doing thank you

That’s exactly what I needed to see … I seen one of my springs broke …. I seen one of the keepers first …. I wasn’t sure what it was …. Now I know from your video …. I guessing that valve is in the cylinder now …. I’m hoping nothing got to damaged … the truck shut off itself …. I know I’m going to have to take the head off now for sure …. Thanks For This Video

Very helpful thank you for your efforts, it makes my life easier

Great video ...I have to do this to my Ram 5.7 .....popping the valve out and putting in the keepers without expensive tools exactly what I was searching for ! Thanks !

To avoid the C clamp, put a rag on the bench and the head at the valve on the rag so that the rag holds the valve closed. Then you might be able to push the PVC pipe with one hand and get the keepers in with the other, or you can compress the springs with both thumbs while a friend puts the keepers in. Or you can position the keepers in advance and compress the spring with a socket or both thumbs and maybe gravity alone will cause the keepers to drop into position.

Excellent video, I'll keep it under my archives, thanks!

Excellent video. I'm doing my first head gasket replacement never been this deep into an engine before so I will be taking extra steps to inspect while apart. Hopefully I don't have to address valves but if so, this should helpe. Thank you.

Thanks, EricTheCarGuy had a nice tool to hammer the springs and retainiers. It has a magnet that cathches the retainers. Check that video out too. Now I need how to do the seals.

Very nice learnt a lot from this video

Excellent, thank you!! A great help!

Dude! what a legend.

When you get the valve lapped correctly all it takes is a very small amount of pressure.. So small that holding it in with the pressure of your thumb or finger it won't leak when you pore a small amount of gasoline in the chamber.. If it leaks you need to do some more grinding on that valve.. I use lee use a drill bit extension on the hard to reach valves.. Works much better than a pice of hose that can slip off.. Hope this helps anyone else out and or the one that shot this video.. A drill works much better and faster than the old hand tool.. Once you get the hang of it you can do most heads in 30 mins with a drill, where you'll be at each valve 30/45 mins with the old hand tool..

Great video, thank you !

Use a C clamp style valve spring compressor. You can even get air actuated ones. Not terribly expensive. Substantially easier. You should also mention that you need to check valve guide clearance. If its loose your wasting your time. Burn oil like crazy and valve will never seat properly. Also mention that you need enough margin at the base of the valve or it may tulip the valve. If the valve is bent or severely pitted on the land you can lap it till the cows come home it will never seat. Check exhaust valves thoroughly for pitting at stem nearest the valve base for thinning and pitting as it creates a weak or breaking point. Exhaust valve guide clearance will always be greater due to the heat of the the exhaust stroke and exhaust valve being open. Also check that the seats are not sunk to deep or they will need replacement. Also more likely to be on the exhaust valve seat due to heat.

Nice video. Great job man

They do make a Leslie tool that will work on sunken valves as well as not it has a little magnet in it it'll catch the keepers when removing it very fast compared to the old school spring compressors

Thanks for the video!

GREAT video and instructions 👌

One thing to look at prior to all this is if you have play in the valve guides. You can lap all you want if the guides are bad your still going to have a bad seal but still be able to pass a water test.

Great video. I like how you explain your process. Pretty innovative on your pcv pipe gadget. This is really helpful when the time comes to do one of these jobs. Mahalo !

Very informational

Good one

Kick ass video!

cool, I hope tis works for me. you kept it very simple but detailed step by step.

Thanks brother

Good stuff nice details

Great videos!! I'm doing a valve job on an Outback Mitsubishi.. Anyway I feel like you have showed me a few things that will speed up the process. Leak check was nice! And blocks of wood to protect the valves when compressing help me lots! Thank you!

So the valve keeper came off(long story short timing and valves were off), and the valve got bent, 3rd cylinder intake side. ONCE the head came off we see small broken metal pieces in the fourth cylinder, which caught a few rounds of combustion covering the head of the frth cyl in small metal fragments and the piston aswell sustained a few gouges.. 1 notably close to the cylinder wall.. along with the 3rd cyl piston getting a nice chunk from the valve(presumably what got into the 4rth cyl) from a a stock b18b not sure where to proceed, would like to save this engine without having to fully rebuild/bore if possible

Nice job if you only have bend valves/economy style I like your ingenuity you deserve 5 stars for self sufficiency an mechanically inclinations of engine repair

Thanks for the upload, very well done video. (Although I look forward to when you get a camera that can better focus on close ups, still great work!) And how on earth did you get that channel name??? Pretty cool. Subbed!

Thank you nice video

That was amazing, and you just made my day! Thanks allot, I'm gonna do it.

Cool" You Tube" name lol thanks for the info great video

Great video, I admire your ingenuity.

nice video, thanks for the info, repairing my head today, this will help.

What ypu did is ok but the stem becomes (taller) so if this was a bucket type valve you would have to grind on the stem end to get proper clearance.

Thanks T Rex

Excellent tips & tricks Thanks bro.

Great Video, some better clearer camera angles would help even more, either way awesome stuff.

Heaven sent

I have V6 Accord, I removed front head, all valves are bent in front head. I need to replace all valves, will I need to lap the seat for new valves? Is it possible that pistons were damaged? will any work need to be done in the block? Also, when I reassemble how can I synchronize the cams to the crank ? The timing is off because we kept trying to start the car

Great Thx

This is an excellent video done very well.

thank u ,very informative

Thanks

Thank you. Really helpful

Great

Awesome setup. I have a 2004 volvo s40 with a bad head gasket. 160k miles....Should i do the valves while i have them off?

Nice

好办法! 赞!

Thanxs really helps

Youll still get the best results with hand lapping the valves it may take a bit more time but the results are great

When cutting the valve are you just pushing up on the valve with your fingers to keep pressure on the valve seat?

I have a question what size c clamp and is the clamp holding the valve on the other side, can’t quite see

How did you get your timing done after? Since you took the cams out, no marks. I'm asking because I'm doing my first timing chain change and being so ignorant, I rotated the cam sprockets individually because I had no clue what i was doing. Now I have to start the timing from scratch and I don't even know if I did any damage to the valves. Then a friend with more knowledge came over and I told him I turned the cam but didn't know if it was 180 or whatever. Then he turned it back with a wrench and said they couldn't be damaged. Now i'm stuck and don't know what to do. I put the chain on but when we were putting it on, we had to pull the exhaust cam clockwise way down to put the mark on the triangle and then at 5' oclock at the crankshaft sprocket in the 12 o'clock position. We forced it so much that when we were done and did enough revolutions for it to come around again, the chain was behind one tooth on all 3 marks. It's like there is not enough chain between the exhaust sprocket triangle and the camshaft dot at the 5 o'clock position for TDC, It slips out of 12 oclock position. I doubt anyone understands what i'm talking about but I'm trying to explain anyways. I need someone like you to come and fix it LOL. Thanks for any help.

How about bent valves try to straigthen or replace? 1995 honda odyssey broke timing belt hwy with 295,241 miles.will be putting all tdc then leak down if no go will remove head if go will install new . May replace intake and exhaust valves plus all related gaskets felpro numero uno

If the valve was leaking water, it seems to me the vale is either bent or in in need of being made round again. Replace the vale before seating, or use a valve grinder on the old one to make it true again, then seat the valve.

The process is the same, but a drill and rubber hose is a good trick, and if I remember there were coarse and fine lapping compound

Just subbed, great video man im gonna give it a try on my 3.5l honda this spring

thank you so much your video is help full

im looking at a car on fb market place that has one bent valve and i have never worked on a car how hard would it be for me to do it my self?

you should use assembly lube not lithium grease and the Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit by Lisle

Buy the otc valve tool it’s only 50 bucks and the attachments lock on which makes it easy. I’ve done hundreds of valves this is by far bet tool. Also easiest way to remove the locks is with a socket and a hammer.

You shared the pap coin checking experience very well

Love it

Thank you... Really helps...

NICE VIDEO, Thank You.... All 16 of my valves bent due to tension pulley broke in my timing housing, So I'm replacing all the valves, So with that said, Do you still have to use the compound with the new valves?

Did the valves nick or damage the pistons also?

How do you know when you've spun it long enough? Do you have to put it back in and test it? Or is the sound helpful to know when it's about done?

Great video 👍

How do you know if a valve needs to be replaced? If the valve leaks water after a timing belt fail, but it doesn't visibly look bent, can you still lap it in? At what point do you replace a valve? Thanks!!

I'm blown away that the name "You Tube" wasn't taken many many years ago

I have a GM Holden Astra, the timing belt snapped.. they replaced the timing belt but car still wont start, they said it could possibly be a bent valve.. is it possible to check this myself without pulling out the whole motor and what equipment do i use? they said it would cost me a lot of money to get it done. I was under the impression if the motor is a non interference motor, there shouldnt be damage to the valves.

Nice.!

Sorry if this a redundant question but when I order a new valves to replace an existing bent valve. The new valve still needs to be lapped with the cylinder head?

So much good info

Awesome vid and idea!!!.

Wow. Well done. Very good content teaching this. Thk U. 🙂

Great video have one question I'm working on 2.4 L and doing a head gasket I've removed all bolts but I can not get the head to pop off am I miss something .out of a 2010 vibe

Great video thanks

I have a question. I was driving my car and pull over to the gas station and once I put gas on it the car didn't turn over but only crank n I tow it home and check n the chain tensioner was bad so the cam shaft jump a tooth or two. I replaced the tensioner n I'm on the process of putting everything together but my question is, do you think there is a bend valves? The timing belt didn't broke but the tensioner in bank one was a lil loose and didn't align at TDC. One or two links on the chain were jump by the sprocket.

I have a 2.2 ecotec I'm working on. It is a no start engine. It has spark, good fuel pressure but the compression is off... Cylinders 1-3 have at least 220 but the 4th has about 150-160 can't remember exactly because it's been a minute since I checked but close. Anyway I removed the valve cover a while ago to take a look at the top of the chain. It looked tight. So I left it alone. Was unable to do a leak down test. Anyway I ended up taking the timing cover off yesterday ( I had reassembled everything else 2 weeks ago so I only removed the timing cover) Anyway I'll be removing the valve cover again tomorrow because I ran out of daylight removing the timing cover. My issue is I think it may be bent valves in cylinder 4 or it jumped timing because the chain is tight and does look great. If it has jumped timing how do I align the cams correctly... If you don't know can you direct me to someone who does... Thanks....

I did this and inake valves leak a little should i keep gtinding until it stops leaking?