A demonstration of the simplicity in installing Cork Board insulation by Amorim. (Note that external applications generally require mechanical fixings)
darthlaurel We use it widely for retrofitting traditional (solid wall properties) but it has a wide range of applications for new build projects. There’s lots of information on our website www.mikewye.co.uk
Thinking of using expanded cork panels on the roof of my garden office 😊. I think it looks a beautiful material , so you think it will be ok on a roof ?
Hi. I am from Romania and we are building a metal framed house soon. I am thinking to use the cork insulation panels for outside and inside as well. The walls will be 25cm wide. What thickness I would require for external walls? Do I need any vapour barriers? The outside will be plastered and painted. Do you think that is enough to insulate the outside only or I need to insulate the inside of those frames as well? Thank you in advance.
Maybe I am missing something here - the video is showing cork board being installed on the outside, yet your Note is stating requires mechanical fixings? Need both? If mechanical fixings are to be used, how is water prevented from seeping through the fixing onto the OSB/ply? Also I'm assuming (correct me if I am wrong) the cork board is dense enough to prevent water to permeate through to the OSB underneath, is that correct? What about the gaps between the cork boards? Love to use this, but am uncertain with the installation methods suggested by suppliers.
Tahera Khan This is a demonstration wall showing how to apply the boards with the adhesive. This system can be followed internally without the need for fixings but externally we recommend fixings for a ‘belt and braces’ approach. These standard cork boards would always be rendered or plastered which provides the protection, water-tightness and covers any fixings. There is a facade cork board which can be left un-coated but the application is slightly different. I hope this helps.
@@MikeWyeLtd That makes sense! Thx! So I need to look at the fascade cork board (I like the un-coated look) for an external application. We have already have Tyvek housewrap already wrapped around the timber frame walls of the shed. We have wooden battens which we have nailed on top of the Tyvek, so going from internal to external, Frame > Tyvek > Battens. Questions: Is the fascade board dense enough for a screw to go through (without the board crumbling) into the battens?
@@taherakhan7044 The facade boards are designed to be used without any fixings at all so really only lend themselves to solid masonry application or onto a rigid carrier board. Trying to fix to timer battens without a significant washer would be difficult due to the nature of the material.
@@CJ.Hamblin Millions of homes clad in EIFS failed, similar to this. Buildings ALWAYS get wet - rain, humidity, moisture drive, etc. Those that survive have a moisture management plan. OSB doesn't have the perms that plywood has, and OSB soaks up moisture (vapor and bulk) and then swells up, causing mold and dry rot.
@@MikeWyeLtd I understand. At the same time, this method of attachment does not seem to be correct. I could be wrong, but doubt it. Could you ask the supplier what the correct process is? I am curious what they will say: without support at the bottom, and no mechanical attachments to the wall but only glue, they whole installation could fall apart. Cracks, detachment, breaks.
@@vdoundakov Hi Viktor, With the cork facade board, no mechanical fixings are needed with the adhesive. The cork is very light. The standard cork insulation panels would have mechanical fixings and base rails, as they have the weight of render on also. There is a note under the video about mechanical fixings.
Could this also be use horizontaly to insulate the flat underside of a concrete floor with floor heating? And se the adhesive the fix it? We have a dry crawl space under the house and this looks like a great alternative for PIR.
Hello Bas, thanks for your question. The cork is a good alternative to PIR, as you have observed. If you would like to contact our technical sales team we will be pleased to offer advice on your proposed application.
Is it as light as you’d assume cork is? I know that cork is a sound deadener and foam is a sound absorber, so cork is better, but is cork the better insulator?
It is cork so assume its weight is comparable to the types of cork you will be familiar with. Cork has good acoustic properties and you are correct that soft, fibrous materials act to absorb rather than deaden/reflect so it depends how you intend to use the material. For example, soft fibres such as sheep wool are great for internal acoustics by minimising echo etc. whereas denser materials will be better at deflecting sound (such as keep noise out from the neighbours!). However, we primarily deal with cork as a thermal insulation material so do not generally get involved in the complexities of acoustic insulation beyond the above. I hope this helps.
Am using 2.5cm corkboard for my Kominka renovation in Japan. Looks like this video is about 3cm. Corkboard is extremely lightweight. Use a multi tool with wide wood cutting blade in a jig to cut it. Messy but much easier and faster than by knife. Less waste than saw.
Northern hemisphere climates will require weatherproofing and rain screen details. This assumably close to equator where building science is different.
Thanks for your comment. To adhere cork we use SecilTek Isovit E-Cork (and for adhesion of cork facade a variation on this: Isovit E-Cork MD). Details can be found here: www.mikewye.co.uk/product/secil-tek-isovit-e-cork/
@@MikeWyeLtd I´d put this link in your description, its what i´ve been reading all the comments for! Great video btw, gives some confidence to us DIYérs
Hi Patricia. We are a UK based company so would suggest you contact the manufacturers, Amorim, regarding a distributor in the USA www.amorimcork.com/en/contacts/united-states-america/ I hope this helps.
@@ysabelleortiz4138 Yes you can, externally we normally recommend using mechanical fixings as well as the adhesive before rendering in lime. If it is the decorative facade board then the mechanical fixings are not necessary.
