Mr.Wright, Welcome to the wonderful world of decals! You have now gained power - power to change road numbers, add details, etc. As you gain experience you get better and you no longer have to rely on the manufacturer's choices of road numbers. Keep upthe good work.
Thanks for this vid. I bought a santa fe steam locomotive with no decals yeeeeeeaaaarrs ago and I am about to attempt my first decal application as well. This was extremely helpful from an education stand point and it eased my nerves about doing it as well. Thank you so much.
Ah I remember watching this video when I was younger. I said to my self "I'm never gonna do this, it looks too complicated" Now 5 years later I'm here patching a n scale CNW locomotive.
Thanks for the vid. What I like best about your videos is that you are willing to put up a demonstration of something that you are also trying for the first time. That is very empowering to us modelers who are afraid of screwing up and ruining our models...Because you do such a fine job, it gives us the confidence to go after it our selves...Thanks for that!!! I'm still waiting for some N scale work by the way...
In my other hobbies like modeling and gaming I learned to use an old brush to slide the transfers. I know everyone used that prep and set stuff. I've been lucky enough to avoid ridges on things so far, but I'll have to get a couple bottles and try it. I'll spray the whole thing with clear coat or dull coat when I'm done if I can. Otherwise I use a bottle of hobby paint - Citidel 'Ardcoat- which looks like varnish in a bottle, but it works well. Thanks for the how-to James
since you used a sharpie for the black and touchups, which are lacquer based,absolutly DoNot use solvent based clearcote! Your best option for a clearcote is Future floor polish, now sold as Pledge floor polish with Future. The future can be used to get a gloss surface to decal on, to seal paint which can sometimes be effected by the decal setting solution, as well as sealing decals after your finished, Lacquer based dullcote can then be used over the future for a flat finish.
Funny, I watched the previous video just yesterday. I was able to tell by your watch that you took almost 30 minutes from start to finish. I would say you have the basic techniques down. I am curious to see what you will try next.....keep up the excellent work. Airborne!
By the way, as well as the "classic" clear coats from airbrush or spray can there are a couple other choices that work well for "touch-up decals" like you have done. Future brand of clear acrylic floor finish can be used to seal decals - high gloss finish. Also Vallejo (military miniature paint) makes an acrylic flat finish that can be brushed on lightly. The two can be mixed to get a "satin" finish.
Good video - a few comments: the second solution, Microsol, will often look awful as it softens up and starts to adhere to the model's surface. Sit on your hands and Don't mess with it, it usually ends up looking great when it is finished. If not apply a second coat. The best surface to apply decals to is a smooth glossy surface for best results. You can always use dullcoat when the decal is dry to get a matte finish if you want that. ps you can mask the sharpy area and spray the rest
since you used a sharpie for the black and touch ups, which are lacquer based, Do Not use solvent based clearcote! Your best option for a clearcote is Future floor polish, now sold as Pledge floor polish with Future. The future can be used to get a gloss surface to decal on, to seal paint which can sometimes be effected by the decal setting solution, as well as sealing decals after your finished, Lacquer based dullcote can then be used over the future for a flat finish.
It seems like you are starting to come out of your shell & take on some of the bugger projects. I remember the old Janes that would never think of trying this. Haha...
If you sharpen the end of your paint brush it works very well for moving the decal around W/out damage. I'll take my or A new decal ONLY brush and put the end in a pencil sharpener and then if needed soften it with some 800grit sand paper !! So just a thought to U.. nice work and good video's. Bu Bye
You can also tap off the black and clear the complete car..but I'd never hardly use a sharpie.id tape my stuff off to paint and I actually use real automotive paints on my models..since I'm a auto body man and painter..
Funny, I watched the previous video just yesterday. I was able to tell by your watch that you took almost 30 minutes from start to finish. I would say you have the basic techniques down. I am curious to see what you will try next.....keep up the excellent work. Airborne!
since you used a sharpie for the black and touchups, which are lacquer based,absolutly DoNot use solvent based clearcote! Your best option for a clearcote is Future floor polish, now sold as Pledge floor polish with Future. The future can be used to get a gloss surface to decal on, to seal paint which can sometimes be effected by the decal setting solution, as well as sealing decals after your finished, Lacquer based dullcote can then be used over the future for a flat finish.
since you used a sharpie for the black and touch ups, which are lacquer based, Do Not use solvent based clear cote! Your best option for a clear cote is Future floor polish, now sold as Pledge floor polish with Future. The future can be used to get a gloss surface to decal on, to seal paint which can sometimes be effected by the decal setting solution, as well as sealing decals after your finished, Lacquer based dull cote can then be used over the future for a flat finish.
Funny, I watched the previous video just yesterday. I was able to tell by your watch that you took almost 30 minutes from start to finish. I would say you have the basic techniques down. I am curious to see what you will try next.....keep up the excellent work. Airborne!
