How to apply exterior caulking successfully, easily, and cleanly every time! DIY 

Next time. I am always learning.

The advice given by N Albert is absolute Gold if you are looking for a perfect straight line result. For sure, remove the tape while the caulk is still wet and most importantly lift the tape off at a right angle (90 degrees) to the surface it was adhered to. That will give you a perfect straight caulk line. Of course, in this instance you might not want the caulk line on the brick to be perfectly straight because you are trying to achieve a more rustic look that is in keeping with the brickwork. So your way is fine especially if you clean up the excess caulk by hand or with a utility knife. Cheers from the Land Down Under.

It didn’t look like there was much of a gap at the jambs but maybe at the head.

@@genecarden780 well he said there was gaps in it. And only takes 3/16 of an inch to use backer rod. Not to mention who knowss what was used when the contractor had his helper caulk it. Did they use a quality exterior like quad or did they use painters caulk. The difference in performance is like the price difference. One is less than half the price of the one he should be using. Not to mention the damage that could be caused by caulk failure like siding rot or garage door frame rotting due to water, will justify the higher price for a product made for extreme conditions and applications. I like in western Washington and we receive a lot of rain so I know from experience that water can go up the wall. Behind the trim or anywhere the wind blows. We get so much that any new building or house with concrete slab must be tested for moisture content do the hydrostatic pressure.

@@nalbert6979 I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. I can guarantee the original sealant was acrylic ( though I have no proof) I just know that most builders know absolutely nothing about sealants. And by the way he described the failures.By the way the sealant he uses is acrylic too. Quad is not a premium sealant.Look at their technical data sheet. First it says not for use on expansion joints or butt joints. Then it says minimum joint with 1/4” maximum joint width 3/8” that is a 1/8” tolerance and it is recommended only for residential and low rise buildings, then it says tooling is not recommended. Tooling improves adhesion by removing minute air pockets. But because it can only be used on very small joints and it shrinks 23% it will end up too thin. It is garbage.

@@genecarden780 their extreme weather version is what I've been using here with no problems but I do use backer rod. It is not easy to apply but doing exterior siding like LP where you must space the siding to the trim add a backer and caulk use a scrap of siding to help give it a raw cedar look. It does suck for not being user friendly but it does what it needs to do. Do you have any suggestions on other products you have had success with? I'm always open to better product performance.

Using tape gives a lot of DIYers that little bit of confidence in doing a good job. It also makes it a lit easier to tool the applied caulk without making a huge mess that will require a huge clean up. Of course, as one becomes more experienced with the caulking process, the use of tape can be dispensed with as desired. Most important thing is a great end result. Doesn't really matter how it was achieved.