Excellent visual evidence to help you figure out whether to use Shoe Moulding or Caulking for your baseboard gaps. As well my four best Shoe Moulding tips. Thanks for watching:)
I used flat stock as shoe molding on all my baseboards. I think the flat stock actually makes it look really good. In our bathrooms and kitchen I used pvc flat stock as shoe molding. I caulked the baseboards with silicone and then installed the pvc shoe molding on top of the caulking, creating a waterproof barrier that isn't visible. The shoe molding being pvc adds to the waterproofing as well. This prevents any water damage from splashing or wet mopping.
I did a caulk job, where i used my red bar, some ripped wood for backing, and did a second application on a flooring, and she absolutely loved it. Quarter round wood is horrendous on baseboards!!
Really like these videos and his easy-going presentation method. The post-it-note ideas is gold. Great timing... I'm just about to figure out what mine will look like after I put down my baseboards. I've been told that the gapes are rarely noticed by anyone else but you, the person who installed it and looked for them. We all "see" our own mistakes, far more than anyone else does. ;) I think I'll leave them as-is and will address them down the road if anyone really does see them. I refer the look of base without shoe-molding myself.
You have a phenomenal (and even that is an euphemism) video on scribing baseboards. These shoe moldings eat up real estate they reduce the perimeter of the room especially in smaller secondary rooms it looks out of place and ugly. Scribing is well worth it even if one has to remove baseboard and reinstall them as i am doing after upgrading the floor. Just use a trim puller grab tool and some quality thick 1/3 inch rubber that you can tape to the shoulder of the tool to eliminate the risk of pushing a hold in the drywall.
I absolutely despise shoe molding! First of all not only does it take away from real estate of the floor but it's a major dust collector! Chaulking and painting for the win!
I like your video. I prefer to use Scribe molding. It's thinner and doesn't protrude as much. I use scribe along the wall edges and baseboards of my kitchen and bath cabinets. It finishes them out real nice.
I always use a bullnose of about ⅛-¼ of an inch or so angle when butting into door casing etc, or just scribe it to the door casing thickness revealed.. But unlike you using 45°.... I always use the 22.5° angle on the bullnose ends. Nice video! 👍🏼✌🏼✌🏼✌🏼
I love what was done in my house to terminate the baseboards. They used a post tapered on 3 sides at the top to join different height sections, like where the base meets the stair trim.
I prefer shoe simply as a look. I like the extra bump out. Also, returning the ends generally looks better than an angled cut off and looks more like you meant to use it. Great video cheers.
In my country we have the "quarter round" shoe molding although they might be smaller in diameter and the inner 90 angle has been cut away slightly. I really like the smaller flat "shoe molding" that you create yourself. I think I will go for the caulking as I have no idea where to get such nice shoe moldings ;) ( when you search for "shoe molding" in my native language you most of the time get "base boards" instead. Also we have many fancy (curved) base boards now, so a classic "shoe molding" wouldn't even fit and caulking is your only option.)
I love your content and appreciate the clear, concise and to the point way you explain things. Quick question - what are your thoughts on cutting a return on shoe molding?
If it looks good with the given profiles of the moulding, it can look nice. I would try an avoid situation where you create a sharp edge that may get smashed with a vacuum or shoe.
A mitre box and compatible handsaw is a solid substitute for the mitresaw. It is cheap, quite and easy to transport. I have both, but I tend to grab the mitrebox for light duty like shoemolding.
as an aussie painter, our chippies don't really do either. we gap the top and leave the bottom untouched, it leaves a nice cutline anyway. the gap is always pretty close aswell. they make the skirt fit well.
In my experience, anything where you have a LOT of sand coming in and out of the house, caulk everything. It makes a huge difference as even with shoe molding sand gets underneath. But ya, when possible, avoid shoe molding.
@@JT_70Not really out of style. It just costs more and requires more skill so it isn't offered to standard homes. When I put hardwood in my house I used painted baseboards with stained shoe molding to match the floor and it looks really good.
I was a framer and a trim carpenter on a mansion that probably ended up in the $3-4 million range and they still didn't even really consider stain-grade trim anywhere. It has been less popular than paint-grade for so long now that I think the knowledge of how to do stain-grade well has evaporated from the industry around here. Guys who did it a lot 20-30 years ago still know how and do it well. But the vast majority of guys (me included) have only ever done paint-grade and don't know a lot of the techniques for how to make stained trim look tight and crisp.
Are base boards needed? If so, is there anything smaller or flatter than what is normally used? Kind of tired of things falling behind furniture that can’t be flush against the wall. Thank you!
Great video! Just subscribed. Feels like more millennials are snatching up homes. Going to try your door alignment tricks too! Ill let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Great content.
I'll be putting down baseboards next Monday, so I'm hoping you get that scribing video up soon!! (Or maybe I'll just delay my project until the video comes out.)
I should have the video out by next Friday....I'm trying a couple new things with the edit so you never know, sometimes it can be a disaster and I end up making a terrible video that I never release!
Miter shears to cut the shoe, unless your shoe is hardwood it works great. Cordless nailer. Carry both in a bag. Much less getting up and down from the floor.
I know you're done a lot of caulking videos, so maybe you're not anxious to go in with yet another one. (Here comes the but...) But, I'd love to see a comparison and hear your thoughts about using a profiling tool (like the one from Cramer that I just bought) for getting straight lines, even coverage, smooth surfaces, etc. compared to other methods like finger-swiping, rag, sponge, taping off the edges, etc.
I’d watch that, definitely. We have some major projects that are going to require a lot of caulking coming up, so it’d be a nice comparison to see before we jump in.
My primary reason for wanting to seal a gap is because it’s in my bathroom on an exterior wall and it’s super drafty letting cold air in. Does that aspect change your recommendation? Of course the aesthetics matter, but my primary concern is stopping that airflow.
You shouldn’t have significant airflow under your baseboards. In most cases, and depending on age of the home, the wall cladding (drywall, shiplap, paneling, etc.,) should be covering the sill plate. In addition, insulation within the wall should act as a barrier to air flow. Regardless, to your question, perhaps use caulk to reduce airflow, then shoe mold for visual appeal if desired.
Grew up in a family of old, grumpy carpenters who always said that if you had to use a shoe you’d been lazy somewhere else, so I’m admittedly prejudiced against them. And would rather do the work to scribe a baseboard or just leave it. More than that, I just hate that I can’t actually put anything flush to the wall with the extra molding. If that’s the best (or only) way to go, though, flat stock is really the best way. Quarter round is an abomination.
In my new apartment, there are gaps that the landlord says add charm - I disagree. Meaning, if I fix them, it must be reversible. How can I fill these up to 5 cm (2 inches) wide gaps in a reversible way?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter interesting. I just did it in my upstairs on hallways and master bedroom. I’ll have to keep an eye on how it holds up over time. Thanks for the great videos!
As someone that likes to pull my baseboards when I paint, do the next owner of your house is a solid and only use nails long enough to attach the shoe molding to the baseboard... Instead of 3-in long nails that go all the way into the studs. 😳
Shoe gets a bad rap but I think it looks ok mostly, generally avoid caulk as it has a tendency to collect dust and if not painted will discolour over time
At least around here in the past decade or two, painted trim has way WAY overtaken stained trim in popularity. Very rare to see stained trim on a new install, with the small exception of a stained shoe mould that matches the flooring. Part of it is cost, part is just current aesthetic trends, and I think part is that greater availability and affordability of paint sprayers makes painting trim so much easier.
everyone please use base shoe, never caulk flooring to baseboard. for too many reasons. base shoe is a great way for a novice to practice measuring/cutting.
Just a perspective from someone that’s a bit anal: Lived in a place that wasn’t old (house built in 2002) with hardwood floors and caulking was used everywhere. About 5 years later the caulking began to slightly change color and it looked absolutely disgusting.
I was told (as a lay person) that I had “taken too much care” of the oiled hardwood floors, using speciality cleaning and wood care products from the German manufacturer AURO that specializes in natural/ecological products. I don’t quite believe it since the color changes in the caulking also happened behind large furniture where I never applied these cleaning/wood care products. Direct sunlight can also be ruled out as the source of the color change.
You have to paint caulking. White caulking not only yellows but the rubberiness of it will attract dust more than painted wood so it ends up looking dark. Putting white caulk on trim looks good for a year or two and then it doesn't.
If you have vinyl plank flooring you have no choice between caulking or 1/4. If you caulk the gaps you void the warranty on the plank without a doubt. If you’re the old pro as a carpenter you know you should scribe you’re base
First: now you're caulking the base to the wall and touching up the wall paint (if available). Second: old homes w/ plaster, removing base for a flooring job is risky business.
Scribing to me is the best-looking option generally, BUT I think most DIYers will be unhappy with the result if they do it themselves. I've been a professional carpenter for about 3 years now and I'd still rate my skill at scribing (especially on a long run) as *barely competent*. It's a skill that takes some specialized knowledge and/or tools to do well and also enough "feel" with a saw to get an accurate, clean cut. So unless someone has that time/money to practice a good bit, I think they'd get a better result with caulk or shoe.
My personal ranking (assuming there's nothing wonky about the profile that interferes) is 1. 22.5 return, 2. 45 return, 3. Bevel to casing thickness, 4. Flat cut. In the past 3 years, the only person I have seen cut a return on a piece of baseboard or base shoe is me. Flat cut is considered industry standard here. The bevel is considered the somewhat more premium option. I really despise the flat cut but I see it regularly. I think it looks terrible no matter what, traps dirt and dust, and is the #1 place where you will catch a toe, piece of cloth, chair leg, etc. and rip up a piece of shoe. Beveling looks alright to me, provided the end is prepped and painted/stained to match.
Wtf people caulk that gap under the baseboard? 😂😂😂😂 that’s a good way for it to crack and look like hell as the floor moves up and down when you walk. Flexible caulk I know but damn that’s a first I’ve never seen it looks like a kid would do that finish
Stuck in the 80s much. How about you just use shoe moulding on everything , it adds to the finishes and it comes in every shape from colonial to contemporary . Unless your floors are 100% level , you need a finish , caulking is bad , it discolour , it gets ugly within a year . Some are good tips , but nah ...this one is off
I just do not like the look of shoe molding in this application. The flat floor meeting the baseboard looks normal. That round surface looks cheap. I would rather work the bottom of the baseboard to match the floor. Unless the floor is very wavy. Then gaps or molding.
I'm going to suggest a MAJOR fix here: Use PVC moulding! - Waterproof - this is how it wood fails over time. - Solid white, so no need to paint in most cases. - If it does get nicked, so what, you can't see it. - Also it tends not to dent in the first place.
