Basic Coatings EasyStreet is, in my opinion, a much better product than either of those choices. Also the Super Matte is a beautiful soft, only in appearance, finish. When it achieves full cure in 7 days it is a very hard finish. You also have a longer working window that the 5 minutes stated in this demo video.
Don't the rollers leave a lot of bubbles? I'm used to using oil based finishes and bubbles are the enemy. Do they disappear with a water based product?
I’m going to be doing a job for a friend, he just bought his new house and wants new poly finish. My go to is the 3M SPP pad to remove the old poly. I see some pros laying a base coat before laying poly, is this required? Or can I lay the first coat after cleaning the floor?
I normally use a lambswool to apply my water based finish and it flows out pretty evenly and smooth however I am going to be doing a floor soon and was wondering with using a roller does the floor have an orange peel like feel or does it flow out and become smooth ?
So I’m doing my first poly project and I’ve applied two coats with a sheep’s wool applicator pad. I’ve sanded in between coats and will be doing my third coat tomorrow. Why does my floor look gritty…after sanding with 220 grit I’ve vacuumed and mineral spirit wiped down the flooring allowing to dry. Does it just need more coats? I’m using zar oil modified poly
What gloss level are you using? The higher the gloss the more things show. The big question is does it only look gritty or does it FEEL gritty. If it just looks gritty I would lower your gloss level to either a satin or a matte finish. If it's feels gritty re-screen your floor vacuum using a felt wand and dry tack with a microfiber towel. I don't recommend using mineral spirits. Make sure you are using a new 18" 3/8" microfiber roller (thicker naps tend to spray your finish as you roll) and a clean cut pail and brush. If you cut both end walls and pour your finish in the middle rolling wall to wall is best. You avoid lap marks this way
I ordered all the stuff needed to apply oil based poly. The guy at the store recommended a poly that was like oil based but basically water based. I didn’t figure this out until the third coat when it kept coming out rough. I even told him I needed oil based poly!! I had to get a foam applicator pad and sand down all the poly surface that I applied the water based poly with the lamb wool applicator. Then it came out great!!
Yes it cost me a lot of aggravation and put me past my deadline that I took off of work to complete but it all turned out nice. Just a little more time and money than expected.
@@jamesfarina7247 in having trouble with my 1st floor screening and recoat. I rolled on the water based polyurethane and there were a ton of tiny bubbles. I didn't shake the can or roll to fast either. Will microfiber help with the bubble issue?
I don't understand WHY SOCKS and no shoes? I would never stop in the middle of the room with the finish , you should start from one end and finish at the other end.....all finishes will give you cancer, but the Swedish/Synteko will warn you about that.
We either go socks or shoes used only for coating. We never wear work boots on a finished floor. We used to go wall to wall as well. The tech you see here just finished the factory training class for Berger Siedle and is following the factory technique. They do not go wall to wall.
Thanks for your comment and for watching. For this particular finish (Berger Seidle Royal Matte), wall-to-wall is actually against manufacturer guidelines. The reason is that you don't get even coverage when you work for long stretches.
I normally use a lambswool to apply my water based finish and it flows out pretty evenly and smooth however I am going to be doing a floor soon and was wondering with using a roller does the floor have an orange peel like feel or does it flow out and become smooth ?