Thanks for this video I believe it will help me more than any other tutorial I have seen and I have watch hours. No one showed how much material was used and no one said to use heavy pressure on the applicator. Thanks again.
Thank you for sharing all the excellent tips especially clean lambswool with tape a couple Fuzzy's in your polyurethane can really mess up your day you can tell you take a lot of pride in your work with the results you get have a great day
This video is good! I wish I had seen it just a few hours earlier. I just finished my first coat of poly and came up to watch RU-vid to unwind, and the explanation in this video about not being afraid to press hard on the applicator would have helped me. It _will_ help me with my second coat.
Great video did something similar but a slight variation your shoes Sal Flores for hardwood floors great idea I’m gonna do that from now on when I do hardwood floor’s again thanks for the idea😄 Wow your hands hand with a pole that’s a lot of work Sal.
Thank you so much for this! We just moved in a 75 year old house which had old carpeting over hardwood floors. We have used a drum sander and edger and we're ready to refinish. This is the most helpful video I have watched at youtube! Blessings to you!
@ceetheninja1 I agree. I've looked a so many but this video really showed the steps in between. I would like to know drying tines in between sending tho
Realmente se puede limpiar con trapo húmedo si voy a aplicar un poliuretano en base de aceite. I can wipe with water if I’m going to use polyurethane oil base .
@@briceschwartz407 I think he used this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-10-in-Lambskin-Pad-with-Block-10-in-Lambskin-Floor-Applicator-Refill-Pad-w-4-ft-Wood-Ext-Pole-with-Metal-Tip-HD11001-HD11002-RP548HM4800/315857773
I use tack clothes to clean the hardwood floor before doing any polyurethane and mineral spirits after that on the hardwood and let dry. . Everything else I do the same as you, but I also clean the ceiling, above doors, windows, window aprons, anywhere there may be dirt or dust. Cleanliness. I also use a paint tray. and set my gallon of poly on plastic or a cardboard for dripping or spillage as it can occur.
To all those that are getting ready for doing a second coat… BE CAREFUL SANDING!!! I had to remove the first coat after over sanding, as it would show scratches through. Super pain in my ass. 220 grit is recommended, and go very lightly.
Good video for applying finish. The amount of water you used to clean the bare wood floor was bound to raise the grain. Even a damp rag will raise grain on bare wood.
I just used this same poly then read the can to see how long until it dried and it said not recommended for floors and to use the floor finish of that brand found this cause I was wondering how bad of a mistake I made assuming it doesn't matter
Hi Sal! You gave me the confidence to use a belt sander! Excellent sanding instruction in video 1. I watched the finishing video.... so I understand don’t go thick and use pressure on the applicator to push it in. Light sanding between coats vacuum and tack or damp wipe. After second coat you closed by saying sand with 150 grit? So should I add a 3rd coat, if not why the sanding after second coat? Thanks again!!!
I've seen this question on here a few times. Since he used an oil-based stain, it calls for two coats, but it is OK to apply three. If you apply three coats, most polyurethanes do not require sanding between each coat, but it is good to sand before the last coat with sandpaper between 150- to 220-grit.
He was just repeating himself, he did NOT mean that you have to sand the 2nd coat. If you did sand the 2nd coat, you should apply polyurethane same way he did the 1st and the 2nd.
Just going to tell you right now for everyone watching this video if you use the exact same can of polyurethane that he is using on hardwood floors... read the whole back of the can first because it says to use a specific kind of poly made by the same brand that is for wood floors, that is not for wood floors. Read the damn can. This is a general poly, not made for wood floors. Sure it can be used, but Varathane makes their own specialty polyurethane for WOOD floors.
Interesting. I was told to Not apply pressure during application, as it will force air bubbles into the poly. Is it the mineral spirits that prevent this?
I pay someone and they did a horrible job theres a few bubble 1 size looks like it have to much polyurethane looks thick and the other side dont look as shinning how can I fix ? Can I sand it without damaging paint on wood?
Nice job, Sal! I just found your video, and it is very helpful. One question though. It seems that you used the Varathane "interior finish" ultimate polyurethane on your floor. The label on the can recommends that the "interior finish" should be used on furniture, time, etc inside a house, but not for the hardwood floor. I know a lot of people did use the "interior finish" on the hardwood floor anyway. Just curious how durable the finish on your hardwood floor is after two years. Thanks.
When I do this, I wipe the bare wood with mineral spirits. Bare wood and water is not a good idea. I like how they prep the pad with tape to pull up loose fuzz, I’ll do that next time
Exactly… If you are using an oil based polyurethane you never want to use water and always mineral spirits. The biggest issue is that the water will raise the grain.
@@Reefdevil on a floor I can see how it might be a pain, but water will pre-raise the grain so you can lightly sand it off before finishing. Of course make sure it dries completely and then come back with mineral spirits.
Is it ok to use wood glue as sealant before applying water-based glossy varnish (maybe polyurethane) on wood floor? Or you can apply the varnish directly and then sand the floor with #1000 grit or higher for a smooth finish?
Hey Sal how much do you charge per sq ft? And great job by the way. The only thing I didn’t see which I come across when I’m sanding floors is that there are some corners that that small sander can’t hit in Closets etc. This is what I use a hand sander whether it be a square one or a belt sander to reach in areas that those big machines plus the small rolling sander can’t hit.
Says right on that can, not recommended for floors. Varathane Ultimate poly is not for floors. They have different mixture for floors. I made the same mistake had to re-sand the floors
I polyurethaned some faux beams I made from drywall that I painted with latex and then gel stained...when I purchased the polyurethane I chose satin...in order to give added protection I applied it very heavily...it came out extremely high gloss, the shiniest gloss I’ve ever seen....unfortunately I wanted satin, or a flat finish...I tried hitting it with steel wool, and even comet to reduce the glossy sheen...but that doesn’t work ,because of how rough I made the beams...is there any product you know of that I can go over the glossy urethane with in order to make it duller looking or flat looking?
Just found your videos!!! I want to sand down my paint- stained hardwood floors that were never varnished...just raw hardwood planks and has many gaps between planks...any advise on how to approach this? Any advise is welcomed
I read from supposedly hardwood floor expert. And that is to never use lambs wool brush applicator. So definitely I am confused. Just looking for best way to avoid bubbles. Thanks
@@cjones22p Yes. I do not agree with his technique, as well. He is going over it too much. He has to pull the polyurethane, add another line and pull, etc. But, if his way worked, then who I am to tell him different....
Based on how he is applying the polyurethane, it may cause bubbles. It is best to drag the polyurethane; pour a line and drag it, and then pour another line on the wet edge and repeat. He is doing more of a mopping motion. I also recommend not wiping the floors down with water, rather mineral spirits. Water, denatured alcohol, or a 50/50 mix of each is best for stain, specifically dark stains. Application of mineral spirits is best used as a pre-application before polyurethane. The use of mineral spirits is also very beneficial when applying water-based polyurethane over an oil-based stain, after it is dry. The use of mineral spirits better ensures that white patches do not form after application of water-based polyurethane over oil-based stain.
So as a floor professional don’t use water or mineral spirits to wash the floor it’s completely unnecessary and if you miss a spot you will see it. I also wash my lambs wool in the washer and then dry it to remove any fuzz, it works a lot better. Also avoid products at big box hardware stores buy a decent quality floor finish.
Hello Sal and everyone reading this comment. I need help with a problem I have after applying the same Finish Coating, when it dries the resul is not smooth in same areas, it is rough and looks like cracking. I don't know what is causing this problem. Can any one help. ??? Cheers!!
I have same problem - I put it on too thick. It's been two days and those areas are still soft. I may end up scraping it off and sanding then re-applying.
The sanding he does between coats accomplishes a similar goal. I'm guessing since this is a diy tutorial for people to do at home he's not going to use a buffing machine since most don't have access to one.
Nope. You're doing this wrong if you apply water to bare wood. Water make the wood pore open up and end up needing to be sanded again befor the poly aplication. Vaccum and tack cloth the area and use mineral spirits to dampen a rag if you must.pleas folks do your self a favor dont use water on bare wood.
As someone who does this for a living I admire anyone who attempts this without the proper tools. Do me a favor buy a respirator with charcol filters next time you do a coat of poly. Wearing a Covid mask will not protect you
@@bgg5020 Because the lawn looks terrible and your not helping the situation by setting up your work station on it.. As a home owner I would be upset if I saw you using my beautiful lawn for your work space, and I might ask you to leave. By the way, the floor looks great.
Do not do this to your floors. Never ever put water on bare wood floors. Once the wood is stripped, go over the entire floor with wood filler. Let it dry then do your final sanding. If you have the correct tool, there will be no dust residue. Then apply your stain and top coat. Good god man, This is a total disaster.
