Zip screws, rivets, touch up paint; really who gives a crap about what is used, use what you think is right for you. Top videos Mark, thank you for sharing your expertise. It is the craftsmanship I am interested in and how you cut those damn angles. Well done mate. Keep up the great work.
Hi... Thank you for your time to make this video. I have posted it on my fb page for ya.. I have installed gutters for over 15 years & have never used a chop saw period. The only difference there is between hand mitered corners and strip mitered corners is the time and finished product. Hand mitered corners tend to look cleaner however the touch up paint looks flat and faded after a few years... The strip mitered corners will go on faster but wont save you much in cash as you must buy them!
I learned alot..and ive done siding and gutters for 20 yrs..dont listen to these idiots...you do good work as long as YOUR customers are happy thats all that matters..
Well said, John. You are absolutely correct that touch-up paint tends to fade and look flat after a few years. As I'm sure you know, the extent of the fading varies a great deal. Some paints fade into a hideous light green color after a short period of time, while others hardly fade at all. I recommend looking around at houses in your area to try to determine which distributors have the best product. You will see some finishes that are really bad, and some that are pristine even when old.
Areas where touch up paint is used will look bad in a year or so, so in the long run better to not paint. Screws will also rust. Aluminum rivets is the way to go. Having said that, your work is excellent.
Reasonably good but a small suggestion. If you take a piece of trough and chop it at 45 degrees with chop saw you will see exactly what profile you should start with. It will have a lot more shape than yours. This would then be used to as a basis to make a final template. Our corners fit together with almost zero gap anywhere.
you've got good info in this vidio but if had'nt been trying to do my own gutters via trial & error and actually attempted to get this right before you'd moving way to fast. As it is right now I'm going to watch this vidio about 10 more times for those who have sheet metal experiance its going to require stop, rewind, play, stop rewind replay countless times x 2.
I'm curious on what side do you choose to do the tabs . I'm a siding guy by the way (30+ years). When it comes to wrapping fascia I want my seams to face the less traffic area to where it seems "seamless " .I guess my question is do yall gutter guys go by the same strategy
No, we typically don’t think that way, Anthony. We usually have the tabbed side of the gutter on the right side of a piece of gutter (looking at the piece of gutter from the front), simply because it’s easier to tab the side that comes out of the machine first. At my company we do try to have all pieces tabbed the same way, because it’s easier to make really consistent looking miters if you always do them exactly the same way. And, since the template always has a few imperfections, the miters can look slightly different if you are swapping the side of the gutter that you are putting tabs on
Instead of hitting the gutter to round over the corner with the pair of snips, could you use a hard plastic hammer like a snap-on one? Just to keep marring the paint to a minimum? Or is the aluminum too strong to be bent over with a hard plastic hammer?
Little late here. I've seen about everyone do the same thing on these videos 😬.I guess there are some of us have been trained on the small stuff but it makes a difference in the end result
I work doing gutters and I do not put screws on the bottom of the gutter more possible licks or hit it on the front part of the gutter my corners stay flush with out hitting it
Everyone I know on east coast uses miter strips, not boxes. I haven’t seen a house with boxes. Strips work good. The gutter miter basically buts up clean enough that it’s like a 1/4”-1/2” gap the strip hides and only one caulk line. But saves your ass if you’re a little off on a long piece.
A chop saw is good to get a idea exactly what your profile will be on the outer side of the corner but cannot be used on final product. You need to add and subtract in some area for tabs and good fit.
Sorry white rubber semi soft best usually white head on mallet.you can use grip on hammer if ya been doing it for 30 years as I have.retired now,worked on very 1st seamless machine sent up in Van. 1973
Thank you. Yes there were some parts important obscured by the video. A couple of other parts explained really quickly but really needed to be shown a little more. Would of saved me pausing dozens of times.
Hello Mark, I've followed your video to make my own template and I seem to have a gap on the inside bottom - I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong... I've tried cutting less to my mark, so I have a tighter fit, leaving a bigger tab on the bottom, and likely other things but those are the two I can remember that I know I've tried - any suggestions or thoughts? The company I work for uses an outside company to do our troughs and through your videos I've managed to get at least half of the work in house now (I'm doing it) and I'm hopeful I can get 100% of it as I don't want the company to keep outsourcing work. Keep up the videos, they've helped a ton of people!
Thanks for the video. For what its worth, the Title Block, displayed at the bottom of the Video, tends to block from view, some of the stuff we need to see. But its all good.
When I was 17 I managed to drill right through my right ring finger when I was making a corner. The bit bounced off the bone and split the finger and nail all the way up.
nice tutorial, all I would recommend is cutting your clean side gutter a little more precise and fit it to the tab side a little better. by doing that you wont have to bend the metal around the tab side as much which will in turn give you a much nicer looking straight line down the center of the miter. and it wont look like you beat the shit out of it with a hammer!
A guy starting out, who probably just spent thousands of dollars on a machine, does not need to buy a saw to be efficient. Period. There is no doubt that people assemble miters differently all over the place. Some people use rivets, some use screws, some cut flush, some leave a big pad on the underside, et cetera ad infinitum. You have your preferences, and I have mine. There is no "right" answer. If you can sell your services and don't have leaks, then you are "right."
Ha! No, there is usually plenty of blood on the job site. Here's my strategy: Let the blood dry and then wipe it off the gutter. Wiping it off when wet will only lead to a mess!
If you think that these videos are being produced for people who intend to put up 600 feet of gutter a day, you are missing the point completely. There is simply no need to use a saw, moreover. My crew puts up that amount of gutter every day as well, and we do not need a saw to speed us up. It takes 2 seconds to cut by hand.
hit a nerve did I? We all know efficiency is key. I'm not being funny, but both of us put up at least 600' gutter and 800-1000' dp a day. That's why we use saws; not being lazy - just smarter, not harder. Yeah I'm going to put another vid up here this week and you can see.
The seems archaic at this point I know this was made years ago but you can make a template that's perfect for inside outside miners were you don't have to make those ugly cuts and bend them together you can just put together together with popper of its at least in California and their beautiful yacht the bend anything over it on to smooth anything out if you do use a proper begun a new smooth over that inside corner at the top mean outside corner but the top rounded edge of it at least on 6" cutter and looks just fine I can't even tell most of the time take the time to make a nice pattern problem solved and what's up with screws screws look so ugly from the ground he have this big screw protruding why not use proper of its hes 3 across and bought on 3 or 4 across the face morning the top he leaves an extra materials he can put it together a nice and clean to not rocket science maybe someone should make an update video on how to make a miter and maybe I'll do that or some 6" cutter because it's probly the most difficult 5 and 6" cutter which 5" panel Excite whatever and 6" a lot cleaner anyways no we'll make a video super simple
Omg you get paid for that mess? How about using rivits, taking an extra second to trim it nice, and not smashing it with your snips? Now I see why my customers wait 6 months for me to install there gutters!
also first timers will think why fo just use the right to if your a pro....I would think a begimner would have better luck with a body hammer rather then use a tool that wasnt designed to be sheet metal hammer..you seem to know witch surfaces of the snips to use, a 1st timer would think you are randomly beatig hell out of whatever is sticking up with what you happened to have in your hand at the time.The only reason I see what your doing is because like mentioned, I've trying to figure it out for many hours over many weeks off and on. .
Wow, you must be quite salesman if you are able to convince the suckers you sell gutters to that "professional" means pop-rivets. Here in Denver, 99% of all 5" k-style gutter miters are assembled with zip screws, not pop-rivets, so there is absolutely no need to try to sell customers pop-rivet snake oil. If you are able to gin up enough suckers to keep yourself busy putting in pop-rivets, that's great. I have more work than I can handle using zip screws!
id say you dont take pride in your work then. people dont buy colourbond gutters just so you can paint it which cheap touch up they buy them for the look and looking at a external mitre with stiches hanging out of it looks ugly colourbond rivets on the other hand might take that extra little bit but it looks professional and not some bloke trying to hurry up his work so he came make more money
why not use a grinder ? no offense but doing gutters properly like i do use smaller tags dont use zips use pop rivets and use a hammer softly to tap around tags go on the inside, using a saw maybe easier but snips give a cleaner cut and its proven thats using saws will make a colourbond gutter rust quicker, i personally dont agree with touch up paint and no offense but you caked it on there itll dry and look like shit
I went looking for Nate Gunn Video on how he done this but all I heard was a bunch of foul language, Wouldn't really matter how good you thought you are you wouldn't work with our crews. Just not professional. looks like crews I've ran across looking for beer money.
Another arrogant and clueless person who thinks the way he does things is the only "correct" way. First of all, smaller tabs, pop rivets, and avoiding paint are all silly and superficial differences. If your customers are happy (as mine are), and your gutters don't leak, that's all that matters. Lastly, this is a demo! Do you really think I care whether the paint on a demo looks great? Give me a break!
